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Snobrdrkid's WJ Build Thread

420K views 7K replies 99 participants last post by  snobrdrkid07 
#1 ·
I figured I would start one of these for the fun of it! Unfortunately no lifts yet. But my WJ is at least not bone stock anymore! :D

I will start from the beginning.

The build Sheet
Code:
Sales Code:  ---    Description:
*E7 Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats
-L5 Taupe
ADC Convenience Group
AHT Trailer Tow Group
APAS Monotone Paint
A24P 4.0L Engine(ERH)/4Spd Auto Trans(DGK
BAZS 136 Amp Alternator
BC6S 625 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BRYS Anti-Lock 4-Wheel Disc Brakes
CACS Low Back Bucket Seats
CBWS Highline Door Trim Panel
CFNS Rear 60/40 Folding Seat
CGUS Child Seat Anchor System-LATCH Ready
CG1S Next Gen Multistage Front Air Bags**
CKDS Floor Carpet
CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKTS Cargo Tie Down Loops
CLE Front & Rear Floor Mats
CLHS Cargo Trim Panel w/Storage Net
CLPS Door Sill Scuff Pads
CSC Cargo Compartment Cover
CSRS Passenger Assist Handles
CUDP Mini Overhead Console
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
DGBS All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGK 4-Spd. Automatic 42RE Transmission
DHAS Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHPS Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System
DJJS Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
DMEP 3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
DRMS Dana 35C/194MM Rear Axle
ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEGS Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass
GEPS Flipper Liftgate Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror
GNVS Sun Visors w/Vanity Mirror
GTNS Power Mirrors, Fold-Away
GWA Power Sunroof
GXMP Remote Keyless Entry
GXXS Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System
HAAS Air Conditioning
HGAS Hood Insulation
HGDS Deluxe Insulation Group
I38S Route 38 - UP, Mesquite, TX
JAYS Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JCBS 120 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJBS Dual Note Electric Horns
JKAS Locking Glove Box
JKPS 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet
JKYS Power Accessory Delay
JPBS Power Locks
JPDS Power Windows, Driver One-Touch
JPSS Power 6-Way Driver Seat
KRSS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
KWSS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K4SS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K5SS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
LACS Illuminated Entry
LAGS Warning Chime
LAZP Vehicle Information Center
LBBS Courtesy Lamps
LBCS Glove Box Lamp
LCES Rear Courtesy/Reading Lamps
LDBS Cargo Compartment Lamp
LETP Traveler/Mini Trip Computer
LMBS Halogen Headlamps
LPSS CHMSL Lamp
MDAS Front License Plate Bracket
MFTS Body Color Grille
MHAS Black Windshield Moldings
MT2S Trail Rated Badge
MVCS Jeep Badge
MWES Side Roof Rails
NAS 50 State Emissions
NBGP Federal Tier 2, Bin 9A Emissions
NFPS 20.5 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHMS Speed Control
PB8 Midnight Blue Pearl Coat
QB8S Midnight Blue Pearl Coat
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RBKS AM/FM Compact Disc Radio w/Chgr Ctrl
RCGS 6 Speakers
RDDS Fixed Long Mast Antenna
SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCAS Steering Wheel
SDAS Normal Duty Suspension
SUAS Tilt Steering Column
TBBS Full Size Spare Tire
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TTB P245/70R16 OWL All Terrain Tires
TZAP Goodyear Brand Tires
WDQP 16" Steel Spare Wheel
WDRS 16X7.0 Lux Alum Silver Wheels
WLYC All Steel Wheels
WLZC All Aluminum Wheels
XFJP Class III Receiver Hitch
XFKP 7 Pin Wiring Harness
XFLP 7 to 4 Pin Wiring Adaptor
XPFS Protective Coating and Remover
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications
YGCA 7 Additional Gallons of Gas
ZKFP Spring - Left Front
ZKYP Spring - Left Rear
ZYFP Spring - Right Front
ZYYP Spring - Right Rear
Z6DS GVW/Payload Rating
1AAS U.S. Dealer Retail
135S Zone 35-Washington
2TEA Customer Preferred Package 2TE
26E Customer Preferred Package 26E
3FTA Convenience Group Discount
39BA New Price Tracking
4X7A Virginia Chapter-90 Recovery
5I1S WJ-Vehicle Family
5I4S Four Wheel Drive (4WD)/(4X4)
5I8S Left Hand Drive (LHD)
594S Vehicle Order Tracking
6USS U.S. Specifications Label
647S Virginia Ship to State Code
947S Virginia Sold to State Code
My 2004 Grand Cherokee was bought brand new in 04, It was the family SUV until it was given to me in the Summer of 2010. I have been driving it and loving it ever since!

When I got the Jeep - could not wait to start making it my own
  1. New Steering Stablilzer
  2. 4 Skyjacker Nitro 8000 Gas charged shocks
  3. New tailgate lift struts. (June 2010)
  4. Projector and Halo headlights (Aug 2010)
  5. Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X794 Head Unit (Aug 2010)
  6. Interior white LED's put in. (September 2010)
  7. New Yokohama Geolander All Terrain 245/70/16's (November 2010)
  8. Memphis Coax 3-way 6x9's Fronts and Memphis Coax 2-Way 6.5 Rears. (which are freaking loud) (November 27th 2010)
  9. 55w H1 HID Lights at 6000K Color Temperature (December 1st 2010)
  10. Alpine MRP-M500 amp with Alpine 12" 1223D Dual Voice Coil Subs running at 2-Ohms (500 watts RMS)
  11. Alpine MRX-F30 amp for the doors pushing 75 watts x4 (August 2011)
  12. SuperChips - Flashpack
  13. Painted the bottom part of the bumper to look like an Overland.
  14. Got the Front Windows Tinted
  15. Put on a set of Overland Rims
  16. Electro-Luminescent Overland Gauges

Table of Contents
1. HID's
2. Halo Lights
3. Subs
4. Snow Jan 2011
5. Kenwood Headunit
6. Factory Build Sheet
7. NC Pictures, OBX
8. Fuel Filter Change with Picture
9. Mopar Skid Plate
10. Auto-Dim Mirror
11. Rear 3/4 Inch Spacer Install
12. Front Bumper Painted Silver Strip
13. Yard Work
14. Left for VT
15. Front Drive Shaft
16. Sinking Creek - Potts Run 1
17. Double Din Face Plate
18. Highlights from Callalantee, Mountain City, TN
19. Maintenance Day
20. Hit the 4Runner Pretty Good with the Trailer - Pictures
21. Idle Videos
22. First Look at the OME HD Coils
23. OME HD and JKS Adjustable TB - Pictures
24. Overland Rims 1
25. Gear Oil Change and Differential Pictures
26. Overland Rims on
27. Overland Rims 2
28. Window Tint Pictures
29. Rock Light Switch 1
30. Rock Lights On!
31. Car Show - Jeeps!
32. Ready to go back to Tech
33. Rolled 100,000
34. Overland Gauges Came in
35. Overland Gauges at Night!
36. Mountain Lake Wheeling
37. To-Do List
38. Kickdown Video
39. Snow at VT
40. Another Wheeling Picture
41. Wheeling Aftermath Clean Up and EVIC disassembly
42. Rear Axle Seal Going
43. Cleaned up
44. OME HD Coil Spring Update!!
45. 0-60 Videos
46. Back at VT - Spring 2012
47. K&N Filter Numbers
48. Cold Start Up Video
49. HID's driving
50. Auxiliary Transmission Cooler 1
51. Auxiliary Transmission Cooler Install
52. Copperhead Wheeling Pictures
53. Copperhead Rocks with the WJ
54. Mechanical Fan Hitting the Electric Fan
55. Noob Lift Chart
56. Turbo Encabulator
57. Freedom Roof Rail Teaser
58. Freedom Roof Rails Installed with Pictures
59. Cam Talk
60. Can't Trade in my Jeep
61. City Driving and Acceleration Videos
62. 2/10 Would no Drive - VERY FUNNY
63. OME HD LIFT - FINALLY
64. Trunk LED's
65. Painted Rear D.S.
66. Cleaned Up with the Lift
67. Moog Order - Open boxes
68. Stillen Brakes
69. Moog TRE - Measurements
70. Brakes and Tie Rods Installed
71. Rear 5100's
72. JKS Track Bar Movement 1
73. Air Box Mod
74. 4.0 Wheel Spin
75. Front D.S. Angle :(
76. IRO Control Arm Info
77. Broken U-Joint
78. JKS Track Bar Movement 2
79. AP Run-Down
80. Results from Southern Performance

Pictures:


Current:



 

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#3,613 ·
I thought that too? Could be wrong? Maybe less rolling resistance on the roof...
 
#3,614 ·
About to hit BUY NOW Jeep!!!

KBB valued at 17,200!
 
#3,615 ·
Anyways. Back to MY Jeep. I've been having some weird noise when accelerating hard for a brief second. I was messing around the other day and heard it again. Wonder what the heck it was, figuring it was the transmission about to explode. Since I really didn't want to accept that answer. I went looking around and found this...



That would be the mechanical fan hitting the metal backing of the e-fan.
 
#3,619 ·
Went shopping for the Jeep.
Bought some washer to compress the rear shocks.
Some wire loom for the trans cooler lines
zip-ties
wire hangers
bucket
sponge
scratch-x 2.0
 
#3,620 ·
Some wire loom for the trans cooler lines
For a specific area (where it is rubbing/chafing?) Or just "for good measure"?

If you need to protect a single area, wrapping it in friction tape is a much better idea. Another idea is to take the next size up hose, slit it lengthwise, and install over the tube you are protecting. Zip tie it in place.

I hate wire loom. On a hose like that I'd imagine it doing more harm than good.
 
#3,621 ·
billzcat1 said:
For a specific area (where it is rubbing/chafing?) Or just "for good measure"?

If you need to protect a single area, wrapping it in friction tape is a much better idea. Another idea is to take the next size up hose, slit it lengthwise, and install over the tube you are protecting. Zip tie it in place.

I hate wire loom. On a hose like that I'd imagine it doing more harm than good.
Um, I just bought it because I saw it. I routed them pretty well to where there isn't any rubbing. I thought about using it as just a good measure type deal.

What is this friction tape? Just another coating to wrap the rubber hose in?
 
#3,622 ·
guilty as charged I suggested wire loom. Never had any problems with it and it was just to avoid sharp edges and metal on rubber contact. I also wrapped densely in electrical tape afterwards myself. Never had any problems before the tranny cooler hose is pretty thick and strong it just needs protection from sharp abrasion
 
#3,623 ·
LAWL, I have not worked on MY Jeep today. I was helping a friend out all day today, we made his truck SHINE! Tomorrow I am getting to the Jeep. I really dont have any areas where it is rubbing. It may have just been an impulse buy. :D
 
#3,624 ·
Friction tape is a cloth-based electrical tape with a gummy adhesive. It's what gets used by OEMs to wrap original wiring harnesses. Much more durable than electrical tape. It's similar to the grip tape you use on tennis rackets, hockey sticks, etc. I used some in a few places on my winch wiring harness for additional abrasion resistance (2 ga doesn't make sharp curves real well). Where it touches on the license plate (when the winch is mounted) has actually worn away the license plate, not the tape.

You can use it if you want to, but I've never seen an OEM use additional protection around flexible lines like that. Especially when you consider that your lines are fiber-reinforced pressure-rated hoses. Anything that is sharp enough to cut or pinch your trans cooler lines is just going to cut right through the wire loom (which is substantially weaker than the cooler lines).

So there's my thoughts on it.
 
#3,625 ·
Thanks man for explaining! Sounds like some tough stuff. I think I will return it, I don't need it and you are right. Because the lines are braided and aren't even really rubbing on anything.

I do plan on fixing the shocks tomorrow by adding some washer to get hopefully get them to stop clunking around.
 
#3,629 ·
robd2003 said:
Im confused as to why you have an e-fan AND mechanical fan?
billzcat1 said:
The 4.0s with towing package had an E-fan as well as a supplemental mechanical fan. The bigger concern is "why is it hitting?" My money's on motor mounts.
Beat me to it, exactly. Both came with the tow package

Bingo, my mechanic took a look at them and they were "cracking" but not in dire need of replacement at the time (over spring break was short on time). I am going to have the two engine mounts, and trans mount replaced this summer. It will only hit if I brake stand or floor it from a stop.... hehe
 
#3,630 ·
Got some work done on the Jeep today. Starting off with the rear shocks. Well, I found the problem. The bolt that goes through was smaller then the metal sleeve on the shock. There was not much that I could do, and with that being said, I do not thing jamming the washers in there would have helped either. Soooo, while I had the tire off, broke out the good old torque wrench and got them down to 85 foot pounds. With hopes (since the metal sleeves have teeth on each side) that torquing them down will bite into the metal sleeves and keep them in once place, the in turn keeping the bushing from moving, and the eliminating the clunk, which I think it did!

Next off I glued on my lug nuts with some super glue... Haha, rephrase, I glued the "caps" back on to the lug nuts themselves. It is just a PIA when they fall off because then a 19 mm socket is too lose. So hopefully that will solve that issue. If not, back to the junkyard for more!

Ran around today too and returned and bought a few things. Took back the wire loom stuff, also took back the scratch -x 2.0, did not work well enough for 10 bucks. Then went to lowes and bought a 5" 1/2" drive extension and a 19mm 1/2 drive socket and torqued the lugs down to 105-110 ft pounds. All in a good few hours time, minus the bashing of the fingers when a socket slips off the bolt and the wrench and your hand goes right into the disk and caliper. OUCH.

Decent Fuel Econ today with a random Odometer shot.


 
#3,631 ·
Next off I glued on my lug nuts with some super glue... Haha, rephrase, I glued the "caps" back on to the lug nuts themselves. It is just a PIA when they fall off because then a 19 mm socket is too lose. So hopefully that will solve that issue. If not, back to the junkyard for more!
I think the super glue will not solve the issue. Once it hardens it becomes very brittle. Once you apply torque, the glue is broken. Something flexible, like a dab of RTV might be a better choice if the super glue doesn't work out. Or spring $20 for a set of the American Muscle lug nuts: http://www.americanmuscle.com/chrome-acorn-lug-nuts.html

Quality is ok, avoid impact use on them. Firestone Tire Monkeys used an impact and the wrong size socket and chipped the chrome on mine. A year later, they are rusting. I'll buy another set though.
 
#3,633 ·
Solid as in "burly" or solid as in "not hollow"? The answer is "somewhat" and "yes". I use my impact driver all the time on them with no issues. I'm sure the issue with the chrome was the wrong sized tool being used. After my alignment and tire rotation, they were all chipped to crap by Firestone Monkeys. I noticed right away because it came back with the tie rod and track bar jam nuts (the big 1-1/2" JKS nuts) all looser than finger tight and it was clunking badly on my way home.
 
#3,634 ·
Sorry about that, solid as in "one-piece". So from what you said, there is no cap. Well that is a plus. Wonder if they used a 3/4 inch socket? Oh, well that is good, I will bookmark that link. Should I get blue lug nuts??? :rofl::rofl::rofl: ( that was sarcasm, as it does not always transfer well through text.)
 
#3,635 ·
Well I do hate to bother you all on stuff such as a whine or a noise. But I thought I would through it out there. It is a lower-pitched humming noise from the rear end. Probably rear axle.
  • Heard the most at highway speeds
  • can be heard at lower speeds as well but mostly at highway.
  • does not seem to change intestivy much with speed.
  • noise is only present under load, i.e. cruising or accelerating
  • If I let of the gas, it is goes away
  • happened to hear it AFTER I went wheeling and filmed that video
  • lower-pitched humming sound
 
#3,641 ·
snobrdrkid07 said:
Kobalt isn't anything fancy, the same as harbour freight tools. Lowes is 10 min away, and harbour freight is 50 min away.
More sarcasm. Kobalt is some nice stuff :thumbsup:
 
#3,642 ·
Yeah what I was going for was why the hell are you spending so much on Kobalt tools hahah while I do like a nice set of tools my HF sockets are just as good as my craftsman ones
 
#3,643 ·
Well I am not so sure about that. I bent/broke my HF socket... i.e. had to buy a new one (Kobalt)
 
#3,644 ·
Whaaaaaaat?! How the... I just got the extendable ratcheting 1/2" one the 3/8 ones have all been retired to interior work haha that's probably why. But I've snapped grade 10.9 control arm bolts with that 1/2" ratchet
 
#3,645 ·
I was using my torque wrench on my shock bolts... I was using a SAE? (not metric) socket on them, so it was not an exact fit (Did not have any 1/2 drive metric sockets, and lowes was out of 1/2 to 3/8 drive adapters today). So it tore up the socket but did not do any damage on the bolt...
 
#3,646 ·
Ah okay, im used to just seeing one fan. My 03 I had came with the hydaulic drivin fan which was tits at cooling it down. Sounded like jumbo jet. Ha, and our 02 that we have now only has the Efan. But i also dont have the tow package either.
 
#3,647 ·
Hahaha, I am sure it is just as loud as the mechanical fan is! But I like having both if the e-fan were to die on me.
 
#3,648 ·
Yeah my efan died out of town when we went to eat. let it sit a few days after we limped it home, tore apart the front end and diagnosed everything, threw it back together and no problems.:confused: This was in a 30min time span
 
#3,649 ·
The 4.0 is much more forgiving with an overheat. I had mine start creeping past 210 on the beach when I was pushing hard. At the time my mechanical fan clutch was dead and the e-fan was not able to keep up.
 
#3,655 ·
It probably depends on the severity and duration... :confused:
 
#3,657 ·
robd what are your suspension mods... she sure doesnt look stock from your avatar but your sig and Jeep info say otherwise. I'm curious because I was always interested in the addco but was nervous of adding it to a lifted Jeep. I know it stiffens the feel out alot but I'm not sure if... on a lifted Jeep with higher center of gravity... this puts it at a higher risk of lifting a tire and possibly flipping. With my OME's I've tested I can still... in normal conditions.... lose traction without getting near that "ohhh shhhhh we're going over" point
 
#3,658 ·
My avatar was my 03 V8 I had, it was lifted 4" with rc-x components, and 265/70R17 m/t's which measured almost 33's. It handled a lot better on highway, but off road really did limit about 3 inches of flex, when I get a chance this week ill take a pic of stock jeep flex on my log without swaybar and with sway bar so you see the difference.

I never once felt tippy offroad with it either.
 
#3,659 ·
Awesome... How was that bar on the road while lifted? Michael I know this is in your build thread but it's relevant because you're going to be gettin one of these inevitably :)
 
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