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My 8.8 Build: Young and Dumb

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8.8 swap yj
29K views 111 replies 29 participants last post by  drivertd 
#1 ·
8.8 Swap completed August 2012

Hello all. I recently picked up an 8.8 to swap into my YJ.

I want to use this thread to document progress and contribute to the already plentiful amount of info out there about this swap.

I will post updates in this thread in new posts but also go back and update one of the first 4 posts so it's easy to read

WARNING: THIS BUILD WILL BE SLOW

So we'll start from the beginning, my rig:



'90 YJ with 2.5L/AX5/NP231J and 4.10 R&P ratio.

I want to eventually run 37's and the 8.8 seems a logical way to go.

After some searching I found an ad on craigslist.
It was a guy who finds quality 8.8 rear ends in junkyards and sells them to
people doing conversions for jeeps, hot rods, etc.

I swear, he must of had 20 of these things in his garage.

I opted for the 8.8 with disc brakes, 4.10 ratio (to match my D30 front), and an open carrier (I plan on running a selectable locker).

It came from a Ford Explorer 95-01, not sure on the exact year.

The axle came with everything I could possibly need:

-All the perches and mounts still attached to the axle
-The stock sway bar
-Calipers (for cores)
-Usable rotors (could use a quick cut)
-Stock E-brake shoes
-Spring plates
-All brake lines (hard/soft and the remnants of some cables)
-Yoke
-Factory ABS sensor

I got all that for $300. It was really a pretty good deal all things considered.

So we loaded up the axle in the back of our very own Ford Explorer and drove on home.



Unloaded the axle and propped it up on the jack stands that night.



I did a quick inspection on the R&P when we picked it up and when we got it home, I cracked it open for a closer inspection



Everything was immaculate. No chips or visible signs of wear. I was very pleased.

Now onto removing the all the factory hardware.

First the hard and soft brake lines and calipers





Onto the sway bar mounts



I cut a little too deep into the axle, oops



So I filled them in with my sorry excuse for a welder (and welding skill)



Ground it smooth (and you'll notice I removed the axle breather fitting)



Next step was basically the same but with the spring perches, no pictures of this.

After all the perches and mounts were off, I wanted to pull the shafts to put in new bearings and seals.
Also to clean up the caliper mounting bracket and dust cover.

To remove the shafts, I removed the bolt that holds the cross pin in place.



Then removed the cross pin.



With the cross pin removed, you can push the shafts into the carrier enough to pop off the C-clips.



Shafts out



Now with the shafts removed, I was able to take off the caliper mounting bracket and dust cover





They come off in one piece but I later separated them.

Next step, removing the seals.
Pretty simple, just pried it out with a big screw driver



The bearings gave me a bit of trouble but I was able to get them out with some heat and a slide hammer







During this time I ordered my new bearings and seals



The next day I cleaned the inner axle tube with some brake clean and pressed (pounded) in the new B&S's using my bearing driver



Bearing in



Seal in



With the new B&S's installed I started to clean up the axle itself;

I started with the rust on the differential gasket surface:

Before



I used a 4.5" flap disc on my grinder

After



Next was just some random grinding really. I think It'll look much better this way



Smoothed out the factory plug welds, too ugly for my tastes.

I plan on welding the tubes as well before anyone freaks out about it.





Overall just smoothing everything out.

You'll notice I removed the factory ABS sensor as well. I'll need to find a plug for this later.



I went over most of the tubes, smoothing and getting off most of the grime and rust.
But you'll notice that I didn't sand down all the way to bare metal because I plan on painting the axle with chassis saver (like POR-15)
and it adheres better to rusted surfaces.

I ordered the chassis saver to paint the axle with today

I took advantage of this promo.
Ordered a Monstliner 1 gallon kit and got a free quart of chassis saver and free shipping! Unbeatable, thanks Magnet Man!

Today I also ordered the spring perches, shock tabs, and U-bolt plates.

I contacted Eddie (BESRK) at Ground Pounder Fab and we figured out what I needed. I'm very pleased so far, Eddie is a great guy to deal with. Thanks again!
 
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#35 ·
lutzke21 said:
Holy crap that's a big u-bolt... looks to be about twice to three times as long as mine, too bad about the threads.
Yeah, crazy.. oh well though!

This time it was white santa who dropped off a present today:



Spring perches, shock tabs, u-bolt plates, and a pair of clevis mounts (for the front bumper) from GPF

High quality stuff, very pleased

The spring perches are DIY style, I have to weld them together



Then they'll fit together like so..



Still waiting on parts!!
 
#36 ·
JEEP_Nut1218 said:
Yeah, crazy.. oh well though!

This time it was white santa who dropped off a present today:

Spring perches, shock tabs, u-bolt plates, and a pair of clevis mounts (for the front bumper) from GPF

High quality stuff, very pleased

The spring perches are DIY style, I have to weld them together

Then they'll fit together like so..

Still waiting on parts!!
Sorry, GPF???????? Got to check it out. Have a yoke adaptor and freeze plug on its way. Building right along with you.
 
#40 ·
Ground Pounder Fab. He's a member on here, BESRK. I talked to him and we worked out all what I needed, better than any of the "kits" out there IMO and about half the price :thumbsup:

I would highly suggest welding the tubes to the center section. if your spending the time to build it up might as well do it right.
Agreed, I have a couple of two to three inch long beads along the tube/diff on both sides. Apprehensive about welding cast without proper equipment, even though I know many others have.
I plan on it! Although I haven't decided if I want to have it "professionally" done or if I will just borrow a friends arc welder (my little HF flux isnt nearly up to the task)
 
#39 ·
Well since we are posting 8.8 Porn!!
definately weld the tubes.
 
#42 ·
I must admit I didnt do the welding of the tubes I paid a pro to do it. I did weld the spring perches and shock mounts myself though.:D



After you ground down those plug welds on your 8.8 you will regret it if you dont get the tubes welded to the diff. I really wish I would have went with a stronger rear cover like the one lutzke21 has:drool:Are you planning on welding up your spring perches with that 90 amp welder of yours?? I hope not! its not going to be up to the task of welding that thick of steel. not trying to be rude just trying to help a fellow jeeper out:thumbsup: If you lived closer I would offer to weld them up for ya.
 
#44 ·
I must admit I didnt do the welding of the tubes I paid a pro to do it. I did weld the spring perches and shock mounts myself though.:D
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd452/sethcrae/jeep pics/jeep88springpercheswelded.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd452/sethcrae/jeep pics/jeepshockmount1-1.jpg

After you ground down those plug welds on your 8.8 you will regret it if you dont get the tubes welded to the diff. I really wish I would have went with a stronger rear cover like the one lutzke21 has:drool:Are you planning on welding up your spring perches with that 90 amp welder of yours?? I hope not! its not going to be up to the task of welding that thick of steel. not trying to be rude just trying to help a fellow jeeper out:thumbsup: If you lived closer I would offer to weld them up for ya.
Those are nice welds! I just ordered the Blue Torch Fabworks diff cover (which is very similar to lutzke21) and am way too excited to get it...

No, sadly i've recognized the limitations of my welder. My plan as of now is to get the axle under the jeep, set my pinion angle, get everything where I want it, and tack it in with my welder.
Then I'll either take it to a local shop to have final welded or borrow an arc welder.

No offense taken, thanks for the tip! :cheers2:

BTW, Monstaliner and chassis saver should be here tomorrow!!
 
#45 ·
Question...

I've decided to just bite the bullet now and order an SYE.

I'm going to get the JB Conversions kit shown here.

Since I'm going to be running a DC shaft, I would need the CV yoke, correct? NOT the non-cv yoke?

The CV is Part #16-1200-1942

The Non-CV is Part #16-1200-1983

I'm a little confused as to the difference between CV yokes and non-CV yokes.
 
#48 ·
This, too, confused me! From what I read, the CV was better, and it was cheaper. From all I've researched, the CV has more clearance and is better than the Non-CV.

I emailed JB Conversions asking if it was a special and they said flat out the CV is just cheaper and always will be.

I'm going with the JB Conversions CV SYE as well.

Also, here's the difference in the CV SYE:

JB Conversions said:
THE NEW JB CV YOKE ADVANTAGES:

  • The new 1310 CV end yoke supplied in the kit has been redesigned from the more common Spicer 2-4-5341 yoke (shown for the Advance Adapters, Inc. SYE kit - below photo).
  • Our new yoke has additional clearance for those of us needing a high angle driveshaft. The new JB Conversions, Inc. yoke is also shorter than the competition. Internal spline length within the JB Conversions, Inc. yoke is held equal to the Spicer yoke at 2.00".
 
#49 ·
I would go CV yoke as well. Thats what I ended up doing with my SYE kit.
 
#52 ·
So I've got most of the decision making figured out but i'm still debating on a few things:

-As far as the SYE, can't decide if it would be cheaper/stronger/easier to get the JB conversions one and order a DS seperate, or just go with a package deal SYE/DC DS from Tom Woods. Input?

-Since the stock ford flange yoke uses a 1330 size joint, I'm debating whether or not I should get the 1310 conversion flange yoke or just run a 1330-1310 conversion U-joint.
Are there any downsides to these joints in particular?

I think that's about all that I'm not sure on at this point.
 
#53 ·
You are getting a custom drive shaft???
Just have tom woods build you a 1330 one... cost should be the same.
The drive shaft in my pic is 1310 on one end and 1330 on the other. 1310 on the cv side. 1330 on the flange side.
The 8.8 is already pre-drilled for either 1310 or 1330. Just match the flange adapter to the u-joint. Cost is about the same for that too.
Custom...have it made to your needs...right?
 
#54 ·
Yes, that was what I wasn't sure about, cost. The website said it's more for the 1350 so I assumed it would be more for the 1330.
I'll have to give them a call on monday.

Did you get the SYE and the DS at the same time? i.e. I cant install the SYE and then wait another week, unable to drive, until the driveshaft arrives.
 
#56 ·
Wow! looks good. You know a really good trick for getting rid of that spatter? use Anti-spatter it comes in a spray can, pick it up at any welding supply store and you will virtually have no spatter just spray it all over everything before you weld.
 
#61 ·
keep up the good work :thumbsup:
Thanks! Feel free too send them out :thumbsup:

Got a lot done last night.. The goal was to pull the turdy five and get the 8.8 mocked up.

I started working alone but soon a crowd began to gather..



The obligatory 'pulling the turdy' picture



Got shorter T-case bolts and got it back to stock height for the SYE.

Hold it right there, I know what you're thinking. "Why didn't you do a tummy tuck?"

Well before you ask I'll explain my reasoning..

1. It really isn't necessary for the wheeling I do right now, even though I want to do it.
2. Since I'm eventually doing the 5.3 Vortec swap, I'm trying to put as little money as I can into this engine and trans.
3. I'm getting sick of spending money...



Something seems to be missing here..



Got the springs and everything mounted up to the 8.8

If you look closely, you can see the turdy five sulking in the background..



Just the U-bolts holding everything on, the perches aren't welded.

The plan was to get the 8.8 under and still be able to rotate the pinion, didnt work out quite as planned though.



Put on another buddies' 31's so we could just roll the 8.8 under the jeep



Trying to set the pinion angle here..





I say trying because all we ended up doing was getting a pretty good estimate of the angle I wanted it at.

Which was 18 degrees..



Then we pulled the axle back out, set the pinion level..



And then put the angle finder on the perches..

17-18 degrees was about right since I wanted the pinion pointed at the output of the T-case (SYE)



Then I tacked in the perches and shock mounts



I positioned the shock mounts so they'll be flush with the bottom of the axle



Got the turdy back in to the jeep so I can drive and stopped here for the night

 
#62 ·
Just a suggestion.... You might want to wait until you get that SYE installed before you go and burn those perches on permanately. The reason I say that is your t-case output is going to be different. I just went through this myself. A lot of guys will tell you to point the 8.8 pinion straight at the t-case and some will say 2* degrees down ( to account for axle wrap during acceleration). I went the 2* degrees down route and I dont get any vibes:D. Im not saying you have to listen to my advice, just reconsider. I know this is your dd and you want it done right cause those perches are awfully hard to move once you burn it all together. As always keep up the good work:thumbsup:
 
#67 ·
I agree with skyj, dont burn them on permanently yet until the SYE is on there. With a CV DS, pointing straight at the TC is fine, with a non CV DS, 2* down is about right.
I really would have loved to been able to do this but it just wasn't going to be practical in my situation.
If I waited until the SYE was installed to set the pinion angle that would mean I would have to set it, pull it back out, weld it, paint it, etc. then put it back in later.
You're correct this is my DD and going that route would mean at least three days or so of down time.
That's just too long and I know i'd feel rushed to get everything done, so the way I'm doing it will have to do.
Also I'm pretty sure that the angle will do alright, I called up TW's and got a measurement of how far the SYE will stick out. Then I set the pinion going by that measurement.
And I did final weld everything anyways :laugh: Thanks for the tip though, I'm always open to suggestions :thumbsup:

how much money are you in on it so far? im looking at doing this soon but i already have a cv shaft and sye so that wont cost me any money
Good question, lets see here:

-300 for the axle
-45 for perches, shock mounts, spring plates
-40 for U-bolts
-570 for SYE/DS
-45 for new bearings and seals
-130 for diff cover
-35 chassis saver (but I actually got this for free)

That would bring the total to 1165 + 260 more expected :(

I think that's about it so far..

I'm expecting about another $200 or so for brakes and $60 for gear oil.

It's really the little things that add up quick though, like cut off wheels, welding rods, etc.

Great documentation and work.

And I'm diggin' that green pumpkin.
be doing this today... woot woot..... great writeup
Thanks! :cheers2:

In case you didnt read all that above, everything is now final welded.

CDW_327 was kind enough to bring over his arc welder and generator (no 220 at my place) so I could weld everything up.

Considering it was my first time arc welding, I think it went pretty well..



The welds aren't cleaned up or made pretty or anything yet. I'll get to that in a couple of days..:rolleyes:

For any of you doing this too, these are the measurements I used..

 
#65 ·
Great documentation and work.

And I'm diggin' that green pumpkin.
 
#66 ·
be doing this today... woot woot..... great writeup
 
#68 ·
Don't grind down those welds too much you will weaken them. From the pic it looks good I haven't arc welded for a long time. You should have bought a can of anti spatter less cleanup. Are you going to weld up the tubes, to the diff?
 
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