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RCV CV axle shafts VS. Chromoly shafts

39K views 35 replies 16 participants last post by  Knuckelhead 
#1 ·
I'm debating which ones to go to when I go to 35's soon. If I went with chromoly shafts, I would also go with the Vanco big brake kit from Savvy, but with the RCV's, this is impossible. Are the RCVs THAT much better? I'd like to get some opinions from the wealth of knowledge here at Jeep forum.
 
#8 ·
It would seem as a DD with only a few trips a year, I'd side on the value of stopping power. The RCV shafts are an awesome axle and are stronger and I found to be a better value than say Superior Evo's even with CTM's. I can't reliably run Vanco's, so I use Centric rotors and EBC yellowstuff pads and are not completely satisfied with their performance either on or off the trail. I'd try a quality shaft with spicer joints to start, that would allow you to run Vanco's.

Having said that, I have no experience with the new Black Magic pads. They may be head and shoulders better than EBC offerings and allow you to enjoy reasonable road worthy stopping power (still no where near Vanco performance) along with RCV's.
 
#6 ·
I run stock shafts with spicer joints on 35's with no issues at all....with 4.88's, locked, in rocks. But I also run Centric rotors with Savvy pads, which will EASILY lock up 35's. I'd recommend just giving that route a try first. If you feel that one or the other area is lacking, upgrade it. FYI, I've heard that AEV's brake kit will work with RCV's. A fella on ROF is doing it. Unfortunately, AEV's kit is a bit excessively priced.

I see no reason to drop $800 minimum on something that won't ever be exposed.
 
#7 ·
--

a lot of the Yota guys are dumping their setup for U-Joints....and were going to their setup. Guess its greener on the other side of the fence.

As for brakes:
I bought EBY yellowstuff off streetsideauto (coupons available online 10%) and greenstuff rears of ebay for 30$ new.
Jeep stops my 35s no problem on stock rotors.
 
#10 ·
I run RCV's cause I got them at a steal of a price. I wouldn't pay full price, or anything close to that for them. I would run superior shafts in a heart beat if I had to do it over. I'm running the Black magic pads also (much better than EBC yellows). I'm about to do WJ brakes and steering only because I get bored and like to tinker. I can lock up my 35's no problem with the BM pads. They just saved me the other day when I got cut off.
 
#11 ·
If you plan on wheel'n HARD, get the RCV's.

I'm currently saving my pennies for a set myself.
I run nothing but rocks, and have extremely build D44's (full chromo shafts and long 300M u-joints)
I keep snapping outers, inners, and I've broken one 300m u-joint cap and cross.

For about 1400, I can get RCV's that are "about" as strong as stock D60 stuff. Plus, I won't loose any strength in the axle while turning.

I agree that brakes are critical, but so is the time and money you invest in a wheel'n trip.
Maybe invest in a better set of pads, and call it good?
 
#12 ·
I'm hoping to wheel it at least once a month, but it will also see probably 2 or more trips a year that are 700+ miles highway one way. I want to make it as tough as possible, because just about everywhere I wheel it, will be at least 1 hour away and I want to be able to drive home. Money is not as big a part of this equation as getting it done right. The main reason I was looking at RCV's was their strength, but was also looking at Vanco for their superior stopping power. I just want to do it right the first time.
 
#18 ·
To the OP:

What have you done about your rear brakes? I have 33's and stock front brakes with rear discs. I don't feel like I need any more stopping power. I know 35's are a little harder to stop, but I imagine some good pads and rotors would make up for that - or a WJ knuckle swap.

Just thinking - perhaps you can pick up your needed braking power another way?
 
#24 ·
Haven't heard of any failures on this board, at least not running 35's. There was a vendor that did a comparison with RCV's vs Every possible axle/joint combination. RCV's were hands down the strongest, both in straight line strength and at various angles including fully bound.
 
#25 ·
unless the outer "bell" is thick and the joint does bind I would not trust it. That is the problem the Yotas have is when you are turning the balls in the joint will stick out of the housing just enough to split it when you jet on the throttle. This happens a good bit with the 80's model trucks with the 22r that puts out a staggering 129 ft-lbs of torque and 97 HP.
 
#26 ·
The Birfields in the early Toyota's gave alot of people issues. Super Birf kits were developed to eliminate breaks at full lock. Bobby Long developed the Longfield (now marketed by RCV) axle including his own joint along with 4340 material. I do not know the exact machanical differences beween the two joints. But they have been shown to be the strongest Rubi D44 and D30 axle replacement available.
 
#27 ·
There are threads over at Pirate where people have been complaining about breaking (no-questions-asked free replacement is great, but it shouldn't be breaking in the first place) along with popping noises and other problems. Others have said they've had no problems at all. I think it's basically like every other product out there in the world, especially if it has some cool factor: some people swear by them, others won't trust them. Personally I'd rather put that money toward some 60's or something if I'm constantly breaking "extremely build D44's". Maybe I'd invest in some driving lessons, too...
 
#30 ·
Did those people on Pirate install them correctly? The sets I've seen in use and during installation were HEAVILY greased before putting the orange boot on. They haven't had any problems out of them and are running 37s on their 4 door JKs.

As for the WJ kit...I know the steering changes...are the brakes physically bigger than stock TJ brakes? Are the WJ calipers 1 piston or dual piston?
 
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