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Transmission Fluid change, Dealer screwing with me?

73K views 58 replies 30 participants last post by  vjsimone 
#1 ·
I need to change my tranny fluid because I do a lot of towing, boat in the summer and sleds in the winter. Dealership wants $325 for a flush and fill because I have an Overland with 5.7 tow package with a "special" transmission with "special" fluid and it 'MUST' be flushed not just drained. They said that the torque converter fluid doesn't get drained when you just drain and refill and that has just as much fluid in it as the pan. I've searched here and it seems this price may be high and everyone here says a drain is fine although I don't know if the treads I read pertained to the "special" transmission I have. I think they're either stupid or just trying to screw with me or am I wrong? Seems real high to me.
 
#2 ·
LOL WOW! No the converter fluid doesnt drain when you drain the pan but it does mix with the new fluid as soon as you drive it the first time. DONT FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION! WOuld you flush your engine? I hope not. Absolutely no need. Pan fluid change and filter is all you need. Thats if you even have a filter. A lot of the newer transmissions have a fill and drain plug and thats it. Do a little more homework. $325 is a ripoff. NEVER go to the dealer unless it's for a warranty issue.
 
#3 ·
The 545RFE is a special transmission with special fluids now? Someone ought to tell Jeep. (And really, I probably would call Chrysler and complain.)

Special fluids is total BS. Outside of some performance applications, basically everything in the Chrysler line for over a decade has used ATF+4 or the ATF+3 it replaced. The ATF+4 you need isn't anything special, you just need more of it.

They're correct about the torque converter, but the factory service schedule is well aware of that and only requires a drain and refill (and new filters). There's nothing wrong with a flush if you want one, and it may not be a bad idea if you've been doing abusive towing and the fluid's in obviously crappy shape, but the schedules and the vehicle are built around the assumption you're draining the pan and adding around half a fill's worth of fresh fluid.
 
#4 ·
If your fluid is in good shape then yea a flush wont hurt anything but still not needed. If your fluid is over due or burnt up do not flush it. The flush can actually cause more problems than just leaving the old fluid in there. Over due or burnt fluid needs to be changed out a little at a time. 2 or 3 pan/filter changes over the course of a year will do it.
 
#5 ·
Ah and ATF+4 is about $6 a quart. I know my tranny took 6 quarts not sure what yours will take. Filter and pan gasket are in the $15 range. It's a messy job but can be done in about a half hour in your driveway if your handy. Maybe an hour if its your first time. Why not give it a shot yourself. Would probably cost $50-$75 to do it yourself.
 
#6 ·
Sounds like a plan. So there aren't any special aditives or anything needed, just plain ATF+4 ATF? I'm assuming you just remove the bottom pan and the filters are right there?

Thanks for all the help. Don't think I will go back to that dealership again. Problem is they are the only one around in the area.
 
#7 ·
Yes you have maybe 12 bolts holding the pan up. Loosten the bolts on the back and both sides then slowly loosten the front bolts. Let the pan kinda hang lower on the back side so the fluid drains out some. Its messy no mattery what you do but it's not hard by any means. The filter is either pressed in or held in with a bolt or two. Either way yes its right there infront of your face you cant miss it. Just match it up with the new one you buy. When you remove the old filter just make sure the old o ring gasket comes out with it. You will know what i mean as soon as you look at the new/old filter. Would be a good idea to also change your transfer case fluid as well as both diffs. 30K is the marker for it all.
 
#8 ·
Not sure if this help much with changing the filter.



FLUID AND FILTER REPLACEMENT

For proper service intervals, refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION.

REMOVAL

1. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
2. Place a large diameter shallow drain pan beneath the transmission pan.
3. Remove bolts holding front and sides of pan to transmission.
4. Loosen bolts holding rear of pan to transmission.
5. Slowly separate front of pan away from transmission allowing the fluid to drain into drain pan.
6. Hold up pan and remove remaining bolts holding pan to transmission.
7. While holding pan level, lower pan away from transmission.
8. Pour remaining fluid in pan into drain pan.



9. Remove the screw holding the primary oil filter (1) to valve body.
10. Separate filter from valve body and oil pump and pour fluid in filter into drain pan.
11. Inspect the oil filter seal in the bottom of the oil pump. If the seal is not installed completely in the oil pump, or is otherwise damaged, then remove and discard the oil filter seal from the bottom of the oil pump. If the seal is installed correctly and is in good condition, it can be reused.
12. If replacing the cooler return filter (2), use Oil Filter Wrench 8321 to remove the filter from the transmission.
13. Dispose of used bans fluid and filter(s) properly.

INSPECTION
Inspect bottom of pan and magnet for excessive amounts of metal. A light coating of clutch material on the bottom of the pan does not indicate a problem unless accompanied by a slipping condition or shift lag. If fluid and pan are contaminated with excessive amounts of debris, refer to the diagnosis section of this group.

CLEANING

1. Using a suitable solvent, clean pan and magnet.
2. Using a suitable gasket scraper, clean original sealing material from surface of transmission case and the transmission pan.

INSTALLATION



CAUTION: The primary oil filter seal MUST be fully installed flush against the oil pump body. DO NOT install the seal onto the filter neck and attempt to install the filter and seal as an assembly. Damage to the transmission will result.

1. If necessary, install a new primary oil filter seal in the oil pump inlet bore. Seat the seal in the bore with a suitable tool (appropriately sized drift or socket, the butt end of a hammer, or other suitable tool).
2. Place replacement filter in position on valve body and into the oil pump.
3. Install screw to hold the primary oil filter (1) to valve body. Tighten screw to 4.5 Nm (40 inch lbs.) torque.
4. Install new cooler return filter (2) onto the transmission, if necessary. Torque the filter to 14.12 Nm (125 inch lbs.) .
5. Place bead of Mopar RTV sealant onto the transmission case sealing surface.
6. Place pan in position on transmission.
7. Install bolts to hold pan to transmission. Tighten bolts to 11.8 Nm (105 inch lbs.) torque.
8. Lower vehicle and fill transmission with Mopar ATF +4.

TRANSMISSION FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:

1. Remove dipstick and insert clean funnel in transmission fill tube.
2. Add following initial quantity of Mopar ATF +4 to transmission:

1. If only fluid and filter were changed, add 10 pints (5 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.
2. If transmission was completely overhauled and the torque converter was replaced or drained, add 24 pints (12 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.

3. Check the transmission fluid.
 
#9 ·
My 5.7 Hemi with the 545RFE took 8 quarts of ATF+4 to bring it to the full mark after changing both filters. I started with 5 or 6 quarts and then slowly added, after running it a bit, until it read full when hot. There are two filters. The return filter is a small screw on (like an engine filter) and the main filter goes over the pump pickup tube. Be sure to remove the old "neck seal. In order to avoid problems (sucking air), this caution in the shop manual must be adhered to:

"CAUTION: The primary oil filter seal MUST be fully
installed flush against the oil pump body. DO NOT
install the seal onto the filter neck and attempt to
install the filter and seal as an assembly. Damage​
to the transmission will result."

 
#10 ·
Not sure if this helps either, but I thought I would give it to you and let you make your decision.

DISCUSSION:

Chrysler Group vehicle fluid systems do NOT require regular flushing.[/COLOR] These systems include: engine oil, transmission oil, axle lube, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and refrigerant. The only exception to this requirement are published in the vehicle maintenance schedules, e.g. engine coolant.

Exceptions to this recommendation include only those instances where a failure has occurred and/or the system has become compromised, contaminated or overheated beyond the normal operating range.

Chrysler Group does NOT recommend aftermarket chemicals to flush the engine, transmission, brake or steering systems. Chemicals contained in these products can damage the system elastomeric components, and contaminate the component fluid, leading to loss of system/component durability and service life. When necessary, only the original approved system fluid should be used to flush these components using teamPSE(R) approved equipment.

If the engine coolant contains a considerable amount of sediment, clean and flush with Mopar Cooling System Flush, p/n 04856977, or equivalent. Follow with a thorough rinsing to remove all deposits and chemicals. Refill with a minimum of a 50% mixture of the specified coolant and distilled water.
POLICY:
Information Only

Disclaimer :This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair.
 
#59 · (Edited)
Loads of BS out here. Never Flush ! Drain, Replace Both filters Always.

Always use OEM Filters, Aftermarket filters have been known to Crack.

Every 60K mi. If you Tow regularly or off road regularly, then every 30K mi.

Mine took about 8 quarts, lower end of the dipstick is deceiving.

Dealer price is about right, same price to drain vs flush.

Non dealer transmission shops Never use factory filters, and sometime do not use the right fluid. If you are not doing it yourself, buy the filters yourself, make the Non Dealer use them.

Transmission rebuild cost thousands...
 
#12 ·
I have not attempted the Transmission yet, Parts guy said the 545RFE trans that I have will only need One Gallon of ATF+4. From the reading I've done online it sounds like I should have another Gallon on hand. He also said that there was no need to change the spin on filter, I did buy the flat one (primary I think it is). My Jeep has 107K miles on it now, and I have no clue if the previous owner did any of this (it runs fine)...the previous might have as the Rear diff fluid was clean and the carfax showed the vehicle was serviced regularly at a local dealer. (hmmm can a dealer look up maintenance history based on a VIN if I take it back to that dealer where the carfax shows...place is so close to where I live).
 
#14 ·
If you go on Jepo.com, under the owners section, you can list the vehcile by the VIN as yours and it will show you service history. Jeep will also email coupons for oil changes and stuff too. 17.95 oil change and wiper blades is nice, or 17.95 oil change and chassis lube to keep my doors from squeeking.
 
#15 ·
The local dealer sent me a coupon by email to do the filter and fluid for $189 with the disclaimer that 'some' transmissions would be more. I called and confirmed that my transmission was NOT one of the ones that would cost 'more', so I made an appointment for early Saturday morning. Before I hung up the phone I again confirmed that the price would be $189 for my jeep. When I got there the guy at the counter told me the woman I spoke to on the phone didn't know what she was talking about, and my jeep was one of the 'more' ones. I walked out.

OK, so the directions above are helpful, but what supplies do I need to accomplish the job?

One gallon of ATF-4
The two filters
Filter seal?
Pan gasket? RTV?
 
#20 ·
Diffs take 75-140, I bought all Mopar, except the guy told me to go buy the Diff fluid from the autoparts store. He said the Mopar one is made by Mobil One and no reason for it to cost $28 a Quart. Advanced had it for $18.99 ($9 a quart savings).

I probably could have spent even less and not got the trans fluid either, but as I was there anyways not a huge deal. I think I'll get the spin on trans filter too (I assume all the trans have this?? (545RFE here)).

Yep, transfer case on mine takes the special stuff...parts guy claimed just over 3 quarts *shrug* No one here likes to list what you should buy. At least the parts guy said I could take back what I don't use...I'll be up in Denver next Friday so I'll just take what I don't use then, probably pickup the trans spin on filter and that extra gallon of ATF+4.
 
#24 ·
I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I've read on here that you aren't supposed to flush.
 
#25 ·
My '06 Hemi WK is nearing 60k miles so I thought I would save a buck and do the 60k maintenance myself. I went to the dealer and got a printout of the required maintenance and have been checking everything off as I go.

Unlike my modified '99 Cherokee XJ, I plan to use Mopar parts and fluids for everything on my Grand Cherokee. So far I have drained the front and rear diff fluid and used Mopar sealant for the diff covers. I also had to replace the front differential solonoid actuator and wiring harness to clear up a "service 4wd system" light.

I have the transfer case fluid that will be changed this weekend, and have done the air filter and other quick stuff.

For the Transmission flluid, I plan to drain the pan (and change filters), refill through the dip, then disconnect the return line from the tranny cooler. I'll have someone start the engine, then shut it off, drain about two quarts from the system, then refill. I'll repeat that process until the fluid runs clear and bright red. This will ensure the old fluid from the torque converter is drained without having to flush the system under pressure.

I've done this with my XJ and it works well. I tow alot and want to drain as much of the old fluid that I can. Anybody else do this?
 
#26 ·
Anyone make a different transmission drain pan with a drain plug in it??? Might be worth the money...seeing as they want this thing serviced so much you would of thought they would have had a drain plug on it. It would have made it quicker for their techs to change and not as messy.

Edited to say:
I came across this one, anyone run it on a 2005 Jeep GC Hemi???
http://www.8lugtruckgear.com/Mag-Hy...utm_source=google-shopping&utm_medium=organic
 
#27 ·
#28 ·
Grandoneer-

Do you feel a more positive shift with that kit? For 49 clams you cant go wrong with a plug in pressure booster..:thumbsup:

All:

When seating that transmission seal on the non-screw in filter, I found that a 25mm socket/ 6" extension/ hammer (tapping lightly) worked perfectly..

MP
 
#29 · (Edited)
OK,
I have a statement and a few questions, I have the 545RFE with the 3.0 CRD, but mine has NO DIPSTICK!!! Just a plastic cap/cover that says service only by Mercedes. I bought my ATF+4 (full synth Valvoline) from NAPA and they said 6.1 qts. The shop I went looked up and it said 13qts. What do I do? Without a dipstick? My statment is that my tranny has a drain plug!!! It is 5mm hex. As for the diffs they had Valvoline 75-140 full syn and I had to by friction modifiers.

Oh, one more question. Does anybody know exactly where the transmission range sensor is exactly? I get an intermintant code 0705 when the tranny won't shif out of first on occasion. I have read here that the sensor should be clean before possibly wasting money on he one.
 
#30 ·
i dont think u can flush the tranny by urself
only change the fluid thats in the pan and change the filter

when u go to the dealer the flush it, meaning they pump more than ur tranny needs to make sure that all the old oil is out

when u change it urself ur only getting rid of whats in the pan and filters
 
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