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Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this)

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#1 ·
I'm sure most people are aware of the E05 recall for some of the 2005 model 4.0l's having premature oil pump drive gear wear. This recall involved engines that were built between 10/20/2004 and 02/01/2005. Apparently my 2006 is experiencing the same symptoms (My build date is 10/2005).

I noticed this when I was searching for the cause of some drivability issues:



Chrysler has decided to do the right thing and cover the repairs (new cam, cam shaft synchronizer, etc...). All I have to cover is $100. I was very happy to get the news yesterday!:2thumbsup:

I'm sure I'm not the only 2006 owner that has this problem. If you have a 2006 I would make sure you don't have this problem too.
 
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#1,005 ·
this was the one i replaced, only number on the saft is the part number 53010614aa and a number under the manufacture standard 1063
 
#1,007 ·
'03's use a different assembly that doesn't seem to be suffering as high a failure rate as the '05/'06 models. If I were you I would just use a high quality oil with adequate ZDDP content and not worry about it. This is exactly what I'm doing with my '02 - I've never removed it and have no plans to since I run Valvoline VR1 in it.

My '06 is another matter...the original gear showed striation wear with 9,300 miles on it, and the replacement gear I got (the same part the dealers installed as part of the recall) is already showing signs of wear with just 4,000 miles on it. It's just as well that I've parked the Jeep for the winter - I'll figure out what to do about it next spring.
 
#1,006 ·
Thanks for the info Willy. Just outta curiosity, what part do you ask for when you order one of these assemblies? CPS? Oil pump drive assembly?

Jeez, if someone here is mechanically inclined, making a sturdy aftermarket assembly could prove to be financially rewarding! Anyone? Anyone?
 
#1,011 ·
When I pulled my original (65K miles) there was no damage. I pulled it twice with no problems.

When the new OPDA was installed it didn't have the gasket. It leaked a tiny bit. I drove with it off for a few days while waiting for the replacement to come in. I would think you only need to purchase one new gasket for the new OPDA. It can be reused if you are reasonably careful when removing and installing.
 
#1,015 ·
Posted this in the registry post as well...
Has anyone been able to figure out what the difference is, if any, between Rev E and Rev B in the serial number of the OPDA? Also, did D/C update the assembly in late 2006 and is there actually anyone who is NOT having issues with their OPDA?
 
#1,016 ·
If I were to guess I would say manufacture date. I originally had a REV-B that failed. Now I'm working with a REV-E. They look identical. There are several high mileage 05-06 TJ's out there. I would be reluctant to say every one is bad. They are more prone to failure though.

Also, just to put it out there, the I6 calls for 6 qts of oil. A lot of places sell 5 qt deals and I don't know for certain what shops add.
 
#1,026 · (Edited)
I disassembled the new OPDA this morning. I can't see how an upper zerk will work. There is no hole in the bushing for any oil to get out. The bottom bushing looks like the trouble spot.

The drive runs clockwise, so the gear teeth force the oil up into oil channels that run behind the bottom bushing. The oil is expected to drain down the shaft and bushing.

Either the oil can't get up the channels or it doesn't drain down the shaft. The groove that is cut in the 04 model OPDA forced oil down. This would provide a passage for the oil to travel out of the bottom bushing and allow lubrication of the shaft and bushing surfaces.

I'll get pics posted tonight and some basic MSPaint drawing of what I think is happening. If anyone has other advice or findings, please let me know.

FOG, when you added the zerk, did you drill through the upper bushing? If there is a hole already, where is it?

EDIT:

Looking at the pic below, the oil travels up the gear teeth (the teeth would be spinning to the left/Clockwise). It has to maneuver around the steel baffle (green line) and up the oil channels. From there, without the oil groove, the oil must somehow get back out. With the channel (blue line) the oil would have a path out.

 
#1,044 ·
EDIT:

Looking at the pic below, the oil travels up the gear teeth (the teeth would be spinning to the left/Clockwise). It has to maneuver around the steel baffle (green line) and up the oil channels. From there, without the oil groove, the oil must somehow get back out. With the channel (blue line) the oil would have a path out.

I am wondering if you put an oil line in where the grease zerk goes then ran a groove all the way along the shafts full length you could run pressurized low volume engine oil in this and not only lube the bushings but also increase the oil to the gear. I need to tear one of these apart. To do this a different seal may be needed at the top to prevent oil from spooging out into the CPS, but I think it would work.
 
#1,027 ·
Here are some apart shots. The roll pin was tapped out using a punch and hammer.



These next three try to show a spiraled "piece" just below the top bushing. I assume it is a seal of some sort, but I can't be certain. You can see the spiral. You can also see the outlet of the oil channels behind the lower bushing.






Here is a plastic washer that fits just under the sensor wheel. I moved it to the center of the shaft for the picture.


Here is a bottom view of the housing and the three oil channel openings.






Here is the metal baffle that covers the openings.


Here is the gear on top of the baffle on top of the opening. The oil has to fight to get up through the channels.


Here is a shot of my sharpie marks on the shaft where I plan to cut the oil groove.


EDIT: Link to zerk fitting issue: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/c...s-should-read-963235/index25.html#post9912393
 
#1,028 ·
That is indeed a seal at the bottom of the upper bearing and the "baffle" is a thrust bearing... it stops the gear from 'machining' the aluminum housing away.

As you can see, there is no mechanism to carry oil up the shaft. Cutting the oil groove should save these units though getting oil to the groove needs to be worked on as the gear and thrust bearing block passage pretty well. Perhaps a few arcing grooves in the top of the gear to 'pump' oil to the shaft would work.
 
#1,029 ·
That is indeed a seal at the bottom of the upper bearing and the "baffle" is a thrust bearing... it stops the gear from 'machining' the aluminum housing away.

As you can see, there is no mechanism to carry oil up the shaft. Cutting the oil groove should save these units.
The pic of the oil groove in older models doesn't look like it will carry oil up. It rotates clockwise and would push oil out. Assuming it gets up inside in the first place.

What about notching the thrust bearing so there is no restriction on the oil holes?

Since the older models have the same thrust bearing, maybe oil does get up and just can't get out. Putting the groove in would help it cycle through.

 
#1,030 ·
Nice work Willydigger! Thanks for the pictures, it is nice to see this thing dis-assembled. I am anxiously waiting for a solution to this problem, hopefully JeepForum can figure it out, bc Chrysler sure won't. I parked my LJ for the time being and driving my YJ until I figure out what I want to do. I have a new assembly waiting to go in, I just don't know what I want to do yet, zerk/machining grooves etc.

I don't recall, the 70 pages are blurring together at this point, do you actually have an '04 assembly (I know you have the pictures of it)? If you did I would be curious to the exact differences, also how far the oil grooves go up the shaft?

I am no engineer but it seems to me that the oil grooves are the difference maker just because this issue does not seem problematic with the '04's and to my knowledge is the only real difference btwn the two assemblies. I like your note about grinding the openings around the baffle, I don't see how it could hurt?

I guess my next step would be to find a machine shop to cut the grooves out. I see your in Baltimore, I'm not too far--in Frederick. Do you know of any good machine shops?
 
#1,032 ·
I don't have the 04 unit. Based on pictures I've seen, the thrust bearing is the same. I suspect then, that the bushing and oil channels behind the bushing are the same. There may be a difference with the upper bushing.

The bottom oil groove must go up slightly past the length of the bottom bushing. The bushing is about 1 1/8 inches. When I add the groove I will go a little above the bushing and down to the top of the gear.

If someone does have measurements I'd love to know them.
 
#1,035 ·
I took it to the machine shop today. Hopefully I'll have it back tomorrow. I decided against notching the thrust bearing. I was fearful of the gear teeth catching the thrust bearing and tearing something up. My logic is the 04 version doesn't have it, so I'll leave it be.

I decided to cut the groove like the 04. I have to assume the oil makes its way up the channel. I don't know if the centrifugal force helps it migrate up or there is something else I'm missing. Regardless, the oil groove should help the oil through the shaft/inner bushing section.

We talked about the upper bushing and the zerk fitting. I'm going to leave it alone for now.

I'll get pics up and measurements when the groove is cut. The plan is to have the groove a little longer than the bushing length.
 
#1,036 ·
Still have that CPS assembly sitting on my work bench waiting for me to install a zerk and snap some pictures. I will try to do it this week while off work and school.

Of all the CPS units I've torn apart the wear on the bottom bushing has always been very very minimal (cosmetic) that could be cleaned off with 1000+ grit sandpaper. To me this indicates its getting plenty of oil to lubricate it for the load it sees.

The issue is the upper bushing and this is where the "wildcard" comes in with some people getting 100K miles out of their CPS and some only getting 10K miles.

The issue with the upper bushing is the design of the lubrication but also a random defect, I'll explain. When I first installed the zerk on my CPS unit I just pulled the fill plug and threaded in a zerk and used a grease gun to pressurized grease in. As I pumped grease I saw it appear in the bore right above the bottom seal for the upper bushing.

I posted this here on JF and other forums and soon had several people telling me I was nuts and that they pumped the heck out of the grease but it never appeared in the bore. After thinking about it for a couple of weeks and tearing open a few other CPS units it occurred to me this is why some last and some don't.

The way the upper bushing is designed to lubricate is there is a thick wax like grease in a cavity around in upper bushing. When the bushing heats up the wax should liquefy and permeate into the bore and lubricate the upper bushing. Where the problem is with the design I can't tell you, I don't know if its pore size in the upper bushing or changes in the the lubricate.

What I think was/is happening is the upper bushing isn't being lubricated properly as its heat up the shaft expands and causes friction with the bushing and additional load on the gear.

The solution is to start with a small drill bit and go through both the outer wall of the CPS and through the bushing. Then come back with the larger drill bit for tap and enlarge ONLY the OUTER hole, tap it and thread the zerk in. What this does is allows for two things, one direct lubrication of the shaft while its spinning. But because the hole into the shaft is allot smaller it allots back pressure which allows you to fill the cavity around the bushing with grease which will slowly melt and lubricate the bushing between grease gun applications.

From the results I've seen with doing this for four local Jeeperes with this same problem I feel that with the addition of a upper bushing zerk, high quality gear and ACEA rated oil that the problem is solvable.


FOG
 
#1,056 ·
The way the upper bushing is designed to lubricate is there is a thick wax like grease in a cavity around in upper bushing. When the bushing heats up the wax should liquefy and permeate into the bore and lubricate the upper bushing. Where the problem is with the design I can't tell you, I don't know if its pore size in the upper bushing or changes in the the lubricate.

What I think was/is happening is the upper bushing isn't being lubricated properly as its heat up the shaft expands and causes friction with the bushing and additional load on the gear.

FOG
that makes sense to me.
I wonder if local low ambient temperatures prevent the grease from melting during initial start up. and therefore the shaft has been spinning in the bearing for sometime unlubricated causing damage during the initial run.

if thats the case, when installing a replacement CPS would pay to warm up the top part of the CPS to make sure the grease has melted and spin the target wheel to ensure lube is spread over the bush
 
#1,037 ·
Putting a zerk in should be easy enough. I'll talk to the machine shop tomorrow. I'll see if he can add some tubing to move the zerk to a more accessible location. Please post some pics so we can have some reference.

Quick confirmation, you are talking about adding the access point where the factory plug in located?



 
#1,038 ·
Yes that's where I originally put a Zerk fitting on the first CPS I modified with one. But I found this to be a PITA to lube so I mounted it on the side of the CPS of easier access.

FOG
 
#1,040 ·
Ditto here. I only have 19K on my '06 and really have not been worried about it until going through the 70 pages here. I am pulling mine this weekend to see what I gotz. I agree Chrysler is not going to do anything about this until I have a failure. Proactive is a good thing.

Now for a question.

If the grease zerk is a good idea, how about running a very small oil line off the oil gauge sender to lube it? I figure the oil could drool out the bottom and help keep the gears lubed as well.

Would this work or is it sealed?

I'm talking about a tiny hose or tube similar to a oil gauge line with possibly a small orifice in it to limit the flow.
 
#1,046 ·
So from what I am understanding my idea of pressurized oil probaly won't work without some major machine work to install a upper seal and groove the shaft. So it looks like a grease zerk in my near future. The tiny hole through the bushing and filling the cavity makes perfect sense now.
 
#1,047 ·
The tiny hole through the bushing and filling the cavity makes perfect sense now.
If you really want to go to allot of work and have OCD like me you can drill two holes. The original CPS unit I took the zerk out of the side where the original fill port was and plugged the outer hole with a grub screw.

With this grub screw the passageway from the inner channel to the bore was still open it just plugged the fill port opening. I then drilled a hole on the side close to the LDI label but only deep enough to get into the cavity between the outside and the bushing. I installed the zerk on that hole and now when I fill it up with grease it fills the entire cavity THEN goes into the bore.

Its overkill in my opinion but was the easiest way to move the zerk. So far I've done 4 CPS units with zerks they all worked just as good be it direct grease to the bore or indirect like I described above.

As far as the type of grease to use, get one with the highest moly content you can. So far the best one I've found is Cat desert gold grease made by Caterpillar. It has 5% moly and it can take a hell of a beating before it turns to carbon. http://www.cat.com/cda/files/1386255/7/NEHP6012-02.pdf

FOG
 
#1,050 ·
Its hard to say---- if you browse the oil forums and look at all the UOA's (used oil analysis) you will see that modern conventional oils protect engines from wear generally just as good as synthetic oils. IMO, syn oils main benefits are much longer drain intervals, better protection in extreme cold/hot temps, and for forced induction motors, or motors that run real hot.
 
#1,049 ·
Oh boy now that's a loaded question. You'll hear the synthetic is a good start but you need high ZDDP. Others will say that you can just run dino. I started off with synthetic at 20,000 when I bought mine and at 55,000 mine went and took the cam with it.

I'm using dino now. I had synthetic in my diffs too and they both leaked out their pinions. Was it because of it? who knows. But I didn't see any benefits from it there nor in my engine. Plus dino is cheaper and I'm changing every 4k-5k with it. I'm not a fan of taking the synthetics and running them 10k+ miles.
 
#1,051 ·
I have several UOA's from my old VW diesel running 10k intervals with extremely low wear, even one with 13k on the oil, in the dead of winter, doing messenger work, and only 17ppm of iron in a typically iron-shedding engine.

The secret? Mobil 1 turbodiesel truck 5w40... one of the best OTC oils you can buy, and if I had a 4.0 instead of a 2.4, i would surely use it.
 
#1,059 ·
I just happened on this thread a couple of days ago, though I have noticed it bumping up for a couple of months. I have to say that this is probably the single most interesting thread that I've ever read on JF, as reading how you guys have thought through the issue has been intriguing. Big thanks to the major thought contributors for the time, effort and intellect that you have poured into this issue.

I haven't pulled my ODPA to inspect it yet, but plan to this weekend. I have a 2005 with about 20K on it. I hope I don't have to replace it but either way, I have both a repair plan and a prevention plan thanks to this thread.

FOG - I'm not sure that I understand the second location for the ZERK fitting that you are using after finding that it is a pain to get at the ZERK when it is in the location of the plug left at the factory. Could you please elaborate? Also, when you drilled through the housing and then the bushing - did you do this while the unit was assembled. If so, any concerns about shavings getting between the shaft and the bushing? Finally, could you elaborate on the process for setting the timing without the tool? In which direction are you rotating the unit, and by how much each time? What tool are you using to clear the codes in between?

Thanks again for everyone's work on this. As someone mentioned before, a thread like this pays for the cost of my premium membership many times over.
 
#1,064 ·
FOG - any comment on the diagrams that willydigger posted, or did he pretty much nail it? Also, if you could address these parts of my questions, I would really appreciate it.

Also, when you drilled through the housing and then the bushing - did you do this while the unit was assembled. If so, any concerns about shavings getting between the shaft and the bushing? Finally, could you elaborate on the process for setting the timing without the tool? In which direction are you rotating the unit, and by how much each time? What tool are you using to clear the codes in between?
 
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