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Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this)

391K views 2K replies 250 participants last post by  1879047 
#1 ·
I'm sure most people are aware of the E05 recall for some of the 2005 model 4.0l's having premature oil pump drive gear wear. This recall involved engines that were built between 10/20/2004 and 02/01/2005. Apparently my 2006 is experiencing the same symptoms (My build date is 10/2005).

I noticed this when I was searching for the cause of some drivability issues:



Chrysler has decided to do the right thing and cover the repairs (new cam, cam shaft synchronizer, etc...). All I have to cover is $100. I was very happy to get the news yesterday!:2thumbsup:

I'm sure I'm not the only 2006 owner that has this problem. If you have a 2006 I would make sure you don't have this problem too.
 
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#743 ·
06 Rubicon

I noticed a ticking noise while driving about 2 years ago. My Rubicon only had 30,000 miles. Chrysler agreed to replace the cam for $100. I just figured I had a bad cam from the factory and they didn't say anything about a recall. But i am glad they fixed the problem.
 
#745 ·
My 06LJ has 63 000 miles. Yesterday I put in a new OPDA because of a noisy upper bushing. There wasn't any wear on my gear, but the contact patch was a little irregular. I figured that to be the result of driving it with a pooched bushing, although the unit seemed to spin freely.

I use castrol syntec 5w50
 
#746 ·
My 06LJ has 63 000 miles. Yesterday I put in a new OPDA because of a noisy upper bushing. There wasn't any wear on my gear, but the contact patch was a little irregular. I figured that to be the result of driving it with a pooched bushing, although the unit seemed to spin freely.

I use castrol syntec 5w50
I'd strongly recommend salvaging that gear from the old OPDA...I'm not convinced that new OPDAs necessarily have a good gear with the right metallurgy/hardness.
 
#747 · (Edited)
Here is an update on what I have done...

1.) Purchased new OPDA.

2.) Brought new OPDA to machine shop where it was dissembled and analyzed. As others have discovered, at the factory lube hole for the upper bushing there was lube. However, in my case and in others, there was no way for that lube to EVER enter the busing. Machinist removed the upper bushing and drilled a hole in it that lines up with the reservoir cavity that surrounds the bushing. He reinstalled the busing so that the new bushing hole was on the opposite side of the new zerk, so that the reservoir would fill up with grease.

3.) Machinist compared the stock rev E gear to a Napa Eschlin gear and said they were the same, same hardness, same weight. So he just reinstalled the stock gear.

4.) On the new OPDA, there was quite a bit of play 1/8 or so between the gear and the assembly. I didn't even take the plastic key out before I gave it to the machinist. It was almost as if there was the same amount of play as those who have posted pictures with a replaced gear. However, this was with the stock gear. Rev B OPDA does not have this much play at the gear.

5.) Installed new re-engineered OPDA and took it to the stealership for syncing. I just wanted to make sure...

6.) Purchased Hesco high volume pump with auxiliary oiling tube pointing directly at the gear. Plan to install this next weekend.

7.) The only real concern that remains is the oiling of the bottom bushing. Engine oil is supposed to get sucked up through 4 little passage ways up, around, and over the top of the lower bushing. The machinist thought that the lower busing must sit in a pressurized oil cavity to force oil up through those passages, but that isn't the case. Perhaps the Hesco pump's active oiling of the gear will cover this thing in oil enough that oil will get sucked in for the lower bushing...

If this doesn't fix it, F the heep... I will take pictures of it on the bottom of a lake and post!!!!
 
#752 ·
It cost me an hour of shop time. I actually swapped the part in the parking lot while waiting for my appointment. I tried to get as close as I could.

It fired up right away, but the check engine light was on. No biggie, as I was already in the stealership's parking lot.

The best part was that the noise from the bushing was gone :)
 
#754 ·
There is a way to re-sync the CPS unit WITHOUT a DRB-III tool.

I spoke with fellow ham radio operator that is an engineer with a company that makes engine control computers. He had a pretty good working knowledge of the JTEC system and how it deals with the cam and crank sync issues.

The JTEC is designed to be able to realize when the CPS is off by up to 15 +/- and compensate. This was designed into the system to deal with gear wear and other system variables that can cause the CPS timing to shift. Because of this if the CPS timing is dead on or 14degrees off the ECU/JTEC compensations and the engine will run the same.

The way to take advantage of this to reset the sync with involving the dealer is as follows.

First you have set the engine at top dead center and install the CPS with the locking pin in place. This will get the CPS with-in about 20 degrees +/- of where it should be. Now snug down the bolt that holds the CPS in place just enough to where it can't turn.

If there is already a error code clear it out and then start the engine. Let the engine idle for about a minute and then if the check engine light doesn't come on rev it up to about 2200 and hold it there for 15-20 seconds. If the check engine light comes only on when you rev it then you close.

Stop the engine and turn it back a touch and try again. Its a trial and error but it only took me about 10 minutes to get it right.

Just realize that if the check engine light comes on idling its grossly off and its probably going to be on the "other side" of where the TDC mark is you found earlier. But if it throws a code at high revs then its pretty close.

So if you don't want to spend the time and money and have a basic el-cheap scan tool that can clear codes, you can re-sync without a DRB-III


FOG
 
#755 ·
FOG,

Not sure if this affects the theories of your engineer friend, but the '05/'06 Wranglers use the newer NGC control module, which is what necessitated the change to the new, failure prone OPDA. The '04 and older Wranglers were the models with JTEC controllers.
 
#756 ·
FOG,

Not sure if this affects the theories of your engineer friend, but the '05/'06 Wranglers use the newer NGC control module, which is what necessitated the change to the new, failure prone OPDA. The '04 and older Wranglers were the models with JTEC controllers.
Its my mix up, he used both terms as talking about the revisions and changes. He was specifically talking about the newer computer that Jeep started using in 05 models.

FOG
 
#757 ·
The distributor gears on the older models fail just like the newer models. Go look on jeepstrokers.com and you'll find TONS of examples, and almost everybody there is running older style distributors, not the new module thingy.
 
#758 ·
Wow, I was seriously looking at an 05 Rubicon to replace my tired YJ, but not now, I guess I'll have to up my payments for a JK since they're showing more promise without such hellish failures.

Seriously, Daimler should burn for this, and Chrysler .....uhg no comment.
 
#761 ·
If not under warranty I planned to get a new one and install myself. It isn't that hard assuming of course there is no damage to the camshaft. I contacted DaveysJeep for a used one for $62 shipped. Moparparts supposedly has them new for just over $100.

All the dealer did was replace my VER-D with a VER-E that everyone is having trouble with. It cost $100 to buy some time.
 
#762 ·
Quick summary request.

Is it the general feeling that the lack of lubrication to the OPDA shaft is causing the wear on the gear?

Would removing the cover and lubing the upper chamber (like the WD-40 scenario with a more appropriate lube) prevent this problem?

Or, is the gear wearing due to inferior components? And oiling the OPDA upper will only cover the "laughing monkey"?

Shouldn't the OPDA shaft gear be softer so it is the expendable component instead of the camshaft?
 
#766 ·
From the Registry Thread.

1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2005, Wrangler X TJ, 64,400 miles, 2/05

2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
The laughing monkey noise tipped me off. I pulled the OPDA after two weeks of troubleshooting.











3. Actions taken to fix the problem.
I took it to the dealership. I took it the evening before so they had it cold the following morning. I explained to the dealer the noise and the problem. I let them know about the TSB and the duration of the noise.

Later that morning the dealer called and said the part was not covered under the 7yr/70,000 mile drive train warranty. I asked how a part that was directly related to the drive train was not covered considering the TSB. He said he would double check. He mentioned that since it wasn't a "recall" and was only a "TSB" it was not covered under warranty. A few minutes later he admitted he was mistaken and said it was covered under the warranty. He mentioned the $100 deductible would still have to be covered. I believe if I hadn't of pressed the subject the dealership would not have covered it.

4. Approximate cost of repair?
They originally tried to charge me the price of the OPDA and installation (~$490). After admitting to warranty coverage I had to pay a $100 deductible for the replacement ODPA. I asked to see the part they removed to confirm it was the worn part. It was. The part also has a 12mo/12,000 mile warranty.

5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
The dealer said there was no damage to the camshaft gear. There was no other indication of failure other than the noise (no drop in oil pressure, no codes, no engine trouble, etc.). The service rep did mention that the old part would likely be rebuilt. I expect my replacement to be the same PN or a rebuilt part. I will have to keep an eye out. The only repair cost was a "new" OPDA and installation.

6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay?
As mentioned above, I had to press the subject. If I had of accepted the dealer's initial response I would not have been covered. Only after asking for an explanation and asking to check why the part was not covered, did they admit to coverage. I dealt directly with the dealer.

7. Has the problem returned?
When I left the dealership the noise was gone. Since that was my only symptom, I will have to wait a little while to inspect. I believe it will return.
UPDATE YES.

I removed the OPDA today. It had 20 miles on it since the dealer installation.







Here are some shots of the camshaft gear the dealer claims was okay.





*Also FYI, the dealer had the OPDA in stock (9/21/10, Baltimore MD). I dropped the Jeep off the previous evening and picked it up the next afternoon.
Also One other helpful note with removing the OPDA. After you mark the engine, OPDA housing, and OPDA sensor wheel, you'll pull the OPDA out. The shaft will turn as stated previously. During reinstallation take care not to turn the oil pump so that it doesn't match during reinstallation. If you move it, take a flathead screw driver and return it so the OPDA shaft will mate correctly. Your match marks have to meet for the Jeep to run properly.
 
#767 ·
Well,

My dealership wants a $450 diagnostic fee to take a look at the clutch even though I tell them I have 2 TSB, one for reverse popping out of gear and one for this OPDA. I kept insisting they simply look at the camshaft but they wont. So I called up chrysler, and now theres a case manager assigned to my case. Im just wondering if anyone else had to front a "diagnostic fee" especially for something you dont want them to look at? If so how they dealt with it.
 
#774 ·
I have been following this thread for quite a while. Probably posted once or twice. Just pulled the OPDA today (Rev B). 30,200 miles. No camera at the moment. There is a little shine on each of the ODPA gear and cam teeth and the two spots where the shaft drives the oil pump, shaft turns very freely. Does not look anywhere near worn like that of prior posted pictures.
Bought it used from a Chev dealer with dealer fresh oil change at 22,800. No records by prior owner, no idea what Chev dealer put in for oil. I put in Mobil1 10-30 at 26,500. Found this thread after that oil change. Changed that out at 27,600 and put in Mobil1 15W-50 due to "flat tappet" statement in M1 data.
Sent sample of 1100 mi M1 10-30 to Blackstone advising them to look for any unusual "debris" in the oil that could be symptoms of this problem. Sample came back with a statement that engine oil looks good, but only 1100 miles.
I plan an oil sample every other oil change for a while, along with a OPDA gear visual inspection each change. Got to admit, oil change maintenance effort on this Jeep is starting to approach that of my 87 911.
 
#775 ·
Noticed this thread long ago..but only starting looking into issue recently.

My friend has a Jeep built 10-2004 with 42,000 miles on it and mine was built 4-2004 with 43,000 miles. He has the large cap OPDA and I have the smaller old style.

We decided to check them out few days ago since his seemed to be getting poor gas mileage. Since I don't have a top notch scanner to synch the timing correctly I told him I would pull mine first. ;)

My OPDA gear looked great as did my cam gear.:2thumbsup:

His looked like crap. Scored along the entire length of the tooth and very similar to the ones many have posted pics of.:thumbdown:
His cam gear did not look so bad that I think it will not be an issue if we can get this thing fixed soon


So what has been the best solution to this?? If the OPDA gear is crap..what is different about the gear they would sell me at the dealership?? I could go to a junkyard and pull an older OPDA but the sensors are different.
 
#778 ·
Today me and a buddy tore apart my jeep to install the Hesco high volume oil pump with auxiliary lube shaft pointed at the gear. We had to drop the skid plates in order to remove the exhaust, so that we had enough clearance to drop the pan. Took the better part of 6hrs, but it is done...

The new OPDA has only been in there a couple weeks, so hopefully it wears no more than it has in that time.

Got a better look at the cam gear, there was wear, but i don't think it was bad...

Made what I believe to be a permanent switch to M1 HM 10W-40.

fingers crossed, or to hell with the heep....
 
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