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How-to-replace-your-frame write up. could take a while

42K views 115 replies 47 participants last post by  JBV1967 
#1 ·
All right, for a little background, about 2 weeks ago I had my rear upper control arm mount snap right off the frame. Thank you, road salt.



(Yes, before any of you get all riled up saying I shouldn't have bought it, this was obviously going to happen eventually)

So, since I like my jeep too much to just drive it into the river and go back to driving a honda, I figured it was time for a frame swap. We looked around for about a week, and found one we liked. So, we drove 2 and a 1/2 hours to a Salvage yard in Hammonton and got one from a 2002.




It had some minor surface rust, but for the area its in great shape and we figured it was nothing that couldn't be cleaned up real nice.

We wire brushed the new frame down, made sure every square inch had been touched by a piece of sandpaper(prep is 90% of the work with painting as we all know) and then we got all the tight areas(in the brackets and such) with some rust converter. We then went over the whole thing with a coat of rustoleum rust preventer stuff, and then a coat of rustoleum satin black.




she cleans up nice ;)

Now we have that all set up, time to start tearing into the old one.

TurtleRace was real helpful with this, giving me a sense of direction for where to start. Before I get real far in, my only experience so far with jeeps(in my 18 years) has been a suspension lift and a fender replacement. My dad had a jeep, so he has a pretty good idea what he's doing with most of this. To be clear, half this stuff I don't even know what its called, so your going to be seeing a lot of "remove the black thing that looks like a bowl except with a little pointy object on the bottom". Correct me as you read.

First thing we did was remove the fenders, I'll get that up tonight.
 
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#49 ·
right behind you

Not to hijack but I started mine tonight. I've got a 98 and the frame also went south on me. I'm in southern indiana and there are two salvage yards locally that sell frame for $450. I started on opposite fender and working on undoing all electrical, etc. at once before I unbolt fenders. We'll see how that direction goes. I'll throw pics in where Jersey left off as I can/need to.
 
#52 ·
What the crap are you guys doing to your frames? The uniframe in my xj looks untouched while the rest of my xj turned into the flinstone car. Do you guys just like take the paint off and rub salt on it? hahaha

Anyway i want to see more pictures and progress, looks interesting. I always figured replacing the frame was a lot easier then it obviously is.
 
#53 ·
Pita

So far what a PITA. Seriously... sorry no pics posted. I have plenty to post just want to put together a decent write up. Tonight after twisting off yet another of Jeeps self holding nut things I got out the grinder. Front fenders peeled and on ground. I left everything on them I possibly could. Wiring off and either laying on body or on floor with grill/radiator combo. Can't get the transfer case shifter to come loose. I took the 4 bolts out (1 with grinder) holding inside bracket to tunnel. I have removed the bolt holding the linkage into the lever itself. If I can get this loose I'm almost home free. Dang rust it eats everything. So far about 10 hours into it. If the linkage would have came loose I'd have the body ready to pull at about 10 hours of work and no help.

I have a camping trip scheduled for Sept. 26 and I swear I'm taking this Jeep if I have to put my camping gear inside and pull it on a trailer!:cheers2:
 
#58 ·
if that is sarcasm, then i apologize. I am at college, and my dad is slowly doing it. This weekend I will be going home for the first time to actually get some work done...so i should have more pics of the good stuff this weekend :)

I miss "the jeep" though....its been about 2 weeks. rough.
 
#64 ·
X2 to that and I wonder about the frame swap process legally!! Shouldn't the chassis (frame) number stay the same as in the VIN plate for inspection or whatever?
 
#63 ·
I am following your refinishing process for the new frame, as I am doing the same thing with my '05 LJ frame. I want to ensure that it is treated/prepared/coated as good as I can so that I don't have to look down the barrel of frame replacement later on in life.
You are doing a very commendable job, and keep up the good work!
 
#65 ·
Depending on your state I guess, but in Indiana, they don't inspect vehicles as in other states. That being said, who is to say an Indiana vehicle ends up in a state where they DO inspect and it would become an issue? Hmm.
I know that I am in for some radar time when it comes to inspections, as I am building an LJ from a totalled vehicle. In OHIO, when one is totalled, the salvage yard is required to remove tags and VIN plates from the vehicle. I am going to be registering my jeep with an 'assigned VIN' from the BMV, and am sure they will want to see what ID I have for it if any.
Where though on a frame is the VIN stamped? I have not seen it yet, but then again I may not be looking in the right area. To my knowledge it may not even be on there to create an issue.
 
#66 ·
Where though on a frame is the VIN stamped?
My 05 TJ has it stamped on side of the frame facing out, just under the passenger door. Of course your could always hit it with a grinder then there's no problem at all.

Great thread by the way. I was wondering what happened to this Jeep. I've been hitting my frame with sand paper/wire wheel, alcohol, and rustoleum flat black to try to keep up with the rust. I've seen plenty of TJs around me with rusted frames and I know I need to stay ahead of it.

Good luck with this project. Keep the pictures coming! :cheers2:
 
#69 ·
Well now we are also considering doing an SYE/cv driveshaft, and upper adjustables while its apart

If your gonna do it, might as well do it right, right?
Only if you need it. An SYE can be done with the TC still in the Jeep and so can the adjustable uppers. If you had vibes before the frame crapped out then definitely do it now. Otherwise I'd wait til you need it.
 
#70 ·
For most it would be easier to get another wrangler. But most of you have not owned the same TJ since July 1996. I just retired it from daily duty last September. Me and that Jeep have seen alot together. I have 225,000 miles and I'll probably not touch the motor or manual trans when I swap frames just so I can see how much further she'll go. Even with the rotted frame the rest of the body is solid. It's just crap that these frames aren't coated better from the factory. How well are the JK frames holding up?
 
#73 ·
yeah the coating job they did from the factory seems like a real ****y job. My body is in great shape, but the frame is completely shot. Hopefully they fixed it for the JKs

by the way, more pics to come today! going home in two hours....i know what im doing all weekend :highfive:
 
#74 ·
I'm subscribing. I live in the land where they salt cure roadkill.
So I figure I'll be in same situation soon enough.

And I too would like to see pics of the drain holes that need to be drilled.
My 2006 LJ is in pretty good shape. Like to try and keep it that way.
 
#75 ·
And I too would like to see pics of the drain holes that need to be drilled.
My 2006 LJ is in pretty good shape. Like to try and keep it that way.
x2. I put 2 washer between my TC skid and frame so that I could wash it (& the salt) out regularly. That was a major point of rust when I remove the skid. I also drilled a hole at the rear lower control arm mount on both sides. Any other points to consider?
 
#76 ·
Finally

I'm doing a frame swap as well, from earlier post life has unfortunately got me slowed down. Wednesday I was finally able to get the body off. For the record 5 people really aren't enough to remove the tub. There just isn't enough places to get a good hand hold. Maybe a pole through the rollbar then lift that way. Anyway you can see the holes in the frame behind the upper control arms. Passenger side rusted off completely and driver side almost completely ripped off due to the torque. I wrapped a lift strap under the seats, over the seats, and looped together in the middle and secured with d-ring. I had the strap as far forward as possible and was about 30lbs heavy in the rear... so slide it back next time. Boards on the outside of the seats just to help releave some of the pressure on the side. Back is completely empty (no seat, etc.). I'll post more pics and do a write up when complete. Hopefully that will be in the next two weeks.:cheers2:
 

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#79 ·
yeah i know what you mean. Honestly even if I had POR-15'd my frame a year ago it still wouldve been shot. Mine rusted from the inside out pretty heavily. Do what ya can now though and im sure you can expand its lifespan by a few years.

On a seperate note, sorry for no pictures. I'm at school right now and I havent uploaded any of the pictures to my computer.

We disconnected everything going from the engine to the firewall; things like brakes, AC hoses, heater hoses, and disconnected all electrical clips. The grille and fenders are off, and the gas tank was dropped, and steering was disconnected. All body mount bolts were removed, and it is currently up in the air on a series of blocks:laugh: its an interesting sight. I'll be home the weekend after that, and will post as many pictures as I can :cheers2:
 
#80 ·
I'd be interested to see more pictures as I am in the same boat as you and need to do a frame swap. I have too much invested in the rig now to look for another. Basically the only thing that hasn't been swapped out is the frame, engine and Tub. Everything else is quite new. I've got the entire winter to work this project in my garage. I just wish I had a lift but I'll make due.
 
#82 ·
i absolutely hear you on the lift part, ill post pictures of our solution for removing the body next time im home, it is far from professional :rofl:.

I'll post up as many pictures as I can, and I'll explain all the parts that I missed. I know this could really be a good general guideline for a lot of people.
 
#83 ·
I'm looking at buying (4) Utility Under Hoist Stands (search 520-2002 on Napa's Site) and cutting them down in size. Welding a tube to tie two together and use a pipe under the tub from one side to the other. I'll have to go around and adjust each one a little at a time but it will save my aching back. :rofl:

Once the tube is up in the air enough, I'll roll out the chassis and components and place in the next bay to work on.
 
#84 ·
thats basically what we are doing, except we are just using blocks instead of stands...:shhh: but yeah then the plan is to roll out the chassis, swap all the parts to the new frame and roll it back under. like i said i'll have some pictures next time I'm home:cheers2:
 
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