i guess i thought you guys would be different, but i just get tired of being left out. it's as though nobody ever bought a hamstermill but me. i know we're out there and i know some of us wheel. we just have to make our own stuff.
Well I have a question since I received the prototype and it didn't have the wholes drilled in the top can I drill the wholes in the front and mount my tow hooks in the front of the bumper..... I understand I will lose a slight approach angle and probably won't do it but can I???? will it be strong enough???
OK, I understand what you mean. I would be pretty sure the answer would be no simply because there are no bolts along the center bottom to resist the pulling on the front and I believe the bumper would be pulled open like a can of tuna (hard to say though, the top definitely is not moving with all the attachment points). With that attachment point, the clevis would be pulling directly against the flat part of the bumper - it's weakest direction. Most clevis mounts that are installed out the front are welded to both walls of 3/16" steel tube.
I too would like to see a tummy/engine skid setup for a 2.5L 4 cylinder. I already have a Skid Row skid and it uses longer angle steel to run up to the motor mounts for installation, so I doubt I could make it fly past the CFO, but having it as an option would be nice if I change paths at some point. I know the 2.5's numbers just aren't there as much as they are for the 4.0, so I understand the path Savvy is taken - build for the biggest demand.
Sucks for me, but hopefully down the road/trail, it will become available.
The UCF skid IS a great alternative even if it isn't 100% flat to the frame. ANYTHING will be better than the stock shovel I have now - especially with a 2.5" lift.
In the mean time, I'm really looking forward to getting this bumper in today. Gerald shipped it to my home address, though, rather than my office, so hopefully it's still there on my door step when I get home...
I didn't mean to pick on you Firekite... you just happen to have the most recent post of the argument.
I'm pretty sure this bumper is in my future, once I clean up the corrosion on my crossmember and winch. I sure hope there is a Savvy anti-sway bar available by the time I'm ready to buy! :2thumbsup:
I'm hoping for that, too, actually. In the mean time I'm trying to figure out whether to install and use my Anti-Rock or hold onto it and keep it new for better resale value...
I'll be interested to see what Savvy has to offer as far as the sway bar... I bought the SwayLOC before I knew that Blaine had gotten screwed on the deal with ORO, so I wonder what improvements he'll make on the design.
Blaine mentioned that he had made known what order he planned to perfect items and put into production. I must have missed that somewhere along the way.
OR maybe I was drinking when I read it and just don't remember
If someone has that info or has a link to it I would appreciate it.
Well the front bumper arrived this evening. I thought the UPS guy had screwed up because when I pulled up to my garage I didn't see a box on my porch. It wasn't till I went outside the front door that I saw it. I'm shocked and amazed at how truly compact and light weight it is.
I can't wait to get it on my rig and get that old ****tybilt off. Now that I see it in person I don't think I can bear to see it painted, either. I might clear coat the stainless shackle mounts or something, depending on what's recommended.
On the recovery points and light tabs. Just sand them smooth and use a buffing wheel. The chromium will rise to the surface and they will not corrode nearly as fast. You can also have them tumbled.
That's strictly a proof of concept to verify that our concept was in fact able to be built. There are several things about the system I've never seen before, so I wasn't sure if we could pull them off.
I'll see if I can get the picture of us messing with the floor jack. Because it's an LJ, the crossmember wound up right about at the COG front to back. We used a block of wood standing on end at that center point and lifted up the whole rig until all four tires were off the ground with no ill effects.
Then I moved it to the front right under our 1 piece front support that goes up to the motor mount lift and lifted the front wheels off the ground. It is currently only 1/8" thick flat steel with a unique design that gives it tremendous strength.
Slightly under 1.75" at the lowest part, but as I alluded to earlier, it's all about footprint. It's only 3/8" at the frame and then slopes down to the 15" wide section down the middle. We spend most of our time on the rocks at the shallowest section just inside the frame rails with very few drag marks down the middle. The clearance gets worse where it matters less and gets much better where it matters most.
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