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I-6 'TeamRush Upgrade' (definitive)

359K views 804 replies 248 participants last post by  moto450r 
#1 · (Edited)
*
I NO LONGER RECOMMEND AUTOLITE PLUG WIRES!

I HAVE HAD REAL TROUBLE WITH THEM IN THE PAST TWO YEARS AND I NO LONGER RECOMMEND THEM!

IF YOU WANT 'OFF THE SHELF' WIRES,
Then Use 'Motorcraft' brand wires instead,
They seem to still be fairly well made...


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PARTS LIST, Advance Auto,

Advance Auto, DISTRIBUTOR CAP p/n C193 from Borg Warner.

Advance Auto, ROTOR p/n D219Z from Borg Warner.

Advance Auto, CAP ADAPTER p/n C193AP from Borg Warner.

Advance Auto, PLUG WIRES p/n WR4050 from Motorcraft.
(Comes with BOTH coil wires, E-core coils are NOT recommended with stock ignition modules)

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PARTS LIST, Auto Zone

Auto Zone, Cap Adapter, $4.99, p/n F960
Auto Zone, Distributor Cap, $20.99, p/n F2104G
Auto Zone, Rotor, $3.99, p/n F953
Auto Zone, Plug Wires, Motorcraft p/n WR4050
(Comes with both types of coil wires, E-core coils are NOT recommended with stock ignition modules.)

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YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CHANGE COILS!

The Factory canister coils is perfectly fine for 99% of the I-6 engines this is going to be used on,
And if you switch coils,
I suggest you use an MSD Blaster 2F, p/n 8205

Fits right in your stock bracket, connects directly to your factory harness and works better than the orignal from the factory.

Keep in mind that most of you have a 25+ year old coil in your vehicles!
This might be a good time to retire it for something a little better and a BUNCH NEWER!
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Decide on CANISTER COIL or E-core coil.


MY Suggestion is to use your FACTORY STYLE COIL

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD-8205&N=700+115&autoview=sku

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CHANGE COILS OR BUY A NEW COIL.

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Some people upgrade to an MSD factory style coil (Blaster 2F)
OR,
They use a Ford E-core coil, or an MSD E-core coil.
(Ford, junk yard for about $5. Don't forget to get the coil bracket and coil electrical connector plug if you do!
MSD coil p/n 8227

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD-8227&N=700+115&autoview=sku

If you buy a new coil, you will need to fabricate a bracket,
AND,
You will need to purchase a coil connector,
NAPA p/n ICC1, $15.

PLUG WIRES,
Factory Ignition Coil, Autolite p/n 96171

E-core coil, Autolite p/n 96624

NEW PREMIUM PLUGS FOR YOUR YEAR/ENGINE.
All years are different, so I can't give specific part numbers for all variations, altitudes, ect.

Suggestion is to use Autolite or Denso, and gap to 0.045" regardless of the engine you have or what the book says.

Tube of 'Never-Seize'.

Tube of 'Tune Up Grease' (Dielectric Grease)

Tube of Butyl or Silicone caulking, or Weather Strip Adhesive (optional).

TOOLS.
One medium sized flat blade screwdriver,
One medium sized (#2 Phillips) cross screw driver,
One plug socket and drive tool,
Plug gap checker,
Needle nose pliers.

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This is about what your 'PIG' should look like...



TAKE NOTE of where the #1 (front) cylinder plug wire is located on the cap, and then mark that location on the distributor base...
(so you can find it again with the new cap!)
This is showing me marking the distributor cap #1 terminal, but you need to MARK THE DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING, not the cap like I'm showing...



(My mark on the distributor HOUSING wouldn't show up in pictures, so we marked the cap to illustrate that you need to know where #1 plug wires terminal is located RIGHT NOW!)

*IF*, and this is a BIG *IF*...
Your distributor is installed correctly, your #1 terminal mark will be on the housing where the rotor is now pointing. (your rotor will likely be pointing someplace else, but I have this one turned to point at where the #1 plug wire terminal MARK should be for illustration purposes.)



Start with the DISTRIBUTOR CAP ADAPTER...
That would be the GRAY THING on the RIGHT in this picture...



I often put some 'butyl' or 'silicone' sealer on the bottom edge of the adapter before it screw it down to the distributor.
This helps keep A BUNCH of water out of the distributor.
Your ignition distributor won't by any means be 'Water Proof', but it WILL help keep a large source of water in the distributor OUT!

Since the adapter doesn't have to be removed very often, you can 'Glue' it down with 'Weather Strip Adhesive' if you want to keep a BUNCH of water out!

I DO NOT use the blue 'RTV' sealer or 'Form-A-Gasket'
, since they off gas a LOT of acids while curing... ACIDS & Electronics don't get alone well!
....................

Here is what the adapter and new rotor look like installed...
Put a 'Dab' of 'Tune Up Grease' on the rotor NOSE. Just a little 'dab'.
'Tune Up Grease', or Dielectric grease IS NOT never sizes or caulking/sealer!



Once adapter and rotor are installed, slap the cap on the adapter...
DO NOT forget to put some 'tune up' grease in the groove on the UNDERSIDE of the distributor cap!
(In the groove only.)
This will seal the cap to the adapter and keep one source of water out of the distributor, but still allow you to get the cap off at any time.



Now, with distributor 'Tune Up' parts in place,
You are ready to do the plugs...

Make sure they are properly gapped,
DO NOT Pry on the center electrode to gap them!
DO NOT bang on the 'Ground' electrode to close up the gap!
Modern 'Resistor' plugs are VERY SENSITIVE!
Use a pair of NEEDLE NOSE pliers to bend the 'Ground' electrode instead of PRYING on the center electrode! That's the WORST thing you can do to a spark plug (Prying on the center electrode or 'Tapping' the gap closed!)

They have a 'Carbon Pile' resistor inside the insulator, and if you break that very fragile carbon, 1/6 of your horsepower and torque goes right out the window!



IF YOU DROP A PLUG ON THE GROUND, REPLACE IT!
I can't stress this enough!
This is probably the #1 reason for 'Loss Of Power' or 'Poor Economy' complaints after a 'Tune Up'!
People just don't realize how fragile the plugs are!

You don't need a ton of 'Never Seize' on the threads, but you DO need to use it (Copper if you can find it, but zinc is OK if you can't turn it up easily or Copper is too expensive for your project)

PLUG WIRE TIME,
Use AT LEAST Autolite brand plug wires!
The cheap 'Store Brands' or 'Private Label' brands are CRAP!



MSD wires are without question the best wires on the market, but they are $65+ !!!
For a low revving I-6 engine, the Autolite wires should do you fine.

Use a 'Q-Tip' and put a little dab of dielectric grease (Tune Up grease) in each end of each plug boot.
(If you use factory coil, DO NOT grease the coil end of the coil wire, everything with a 'Spark Plug' terminal gets it!)

This will help keep the water from your connections, and that will keep the ignition from grounding out, and it will keep the terminals from corroding.
The grease also keeps the boots from drying out and cracking.

NOW, If you take a CLOSE LOOK, you will see I mark the FIRING ORDER, starting with the #1 plug wire position, on the cap.
this makes things A LOT MORE SIMPLE! (Old racing trick!)



AMC I-6 FIRING ORDER... 1-5-3-6-2-4 CLOCK WISE!
Cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4-5-6 Front To Back.

SOMETIMES, when I'm doing this upgrade,
I notice the factory coil connector has seen MUCH better days!
The terminals in the connector are shot, the wires are about broke off the terminals from vibration and corrosion, and it's generally in BAD SHAPE!



These are cheap (around $7) and available from Auto Zone or NAPA.
This one is from Auto Zone...
EASY TO INSTALL, clip the wires to the old one, and use crimp connectors with heat shrink tubing to seal up the splice, and you are DONE!

BAD COIL CONNECTOR is a VERY COMMON PROBLEM, and the cause of that mystery 'No Start' or mystery 'Shut Off' problem so many people experience,
BUT,
Since it's an INTERMITTENT problem, it's VERY hard to trace!
.............................................

Unless you changed the coil to an 'E-core', you are DONE!
That's all there is to it! A simple ignition 'Tune Up' but using PREMIUM PARTS!
..............................................

*IF*, you did change the coil to an 'E-core', you will need a new coil connector.
Clip the wires going to the factory coil connector,
Match up the wires to the E-core coil connector, RED TO RED, Green To Green.

Don't forget mount the coil!
(Yes, I've got every thing done, and test drove, just to get back and find the coil hanging by the wires!)
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WHY YOU ARE DOING THIS UPGRADE, AND WHAT IT'S DOING FOR YOU...

The small cap and short rotor from the factory allow the SPARK ENERGY to bounce around inside the distributor cap like crazy!
If you ever cut a hole in the distributor cap, and run the engine at night so you can see it, those small caps look like a fireworks display!

The spark energy jumping from the coil terminal to the distributor housing is called a 'Ground Fire'.
This means one of your cylinders, 1/3 of the power for that engine revolution, went right out the exhaust pipe without ever contributing!

Using the TALLER ROTOR lifts the spark energy up, away from the housing and distributor shaft, virtually ELIMINATING the ground fire problem.

In fact, you can actually feed MORE spark energy through the taller rotor without fear of ground fires!
It's FREE ENERGY going to your spark plugs instead of going to ground fires where it does you NO good!
.............................

The spark energy jumping to the WRONG terminal at the very least is 1/3 of the power for the RPM going out the exhaust....
IF YOU ARE LUCKY!

You see, if that spark jumped to a cylinder that was on the EXHAUST STROKE, the spark was wasted, and didn't fire the cylinder it was supposed to...

BUT...
IF that spark fires the cylinder AHEAD of the one it's supposed to,
It's firing the cylinder 120° TOO SOON in the firing order!

Think about that for a minute...

3° or 4° too much timing can cause detonation in your engine,
But people ROUTINELY allow 120° TOO MUCH TIMING ADVANCE without doing ANYTHING ABOUT IT!

That's like hitting the piston with a SLEDGE HAMMER and can break pistons, break valves, ruin rods and bearings, and a HOST of other things you don't even want to know about!

The WIDER cap spreads the terminals farther apart, making the CORRECT plug wire terminal the more attractive for the spark energy to jump to!
.............................
 
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#45 ·
I pulled up to a light yesterday & the Jeep wasn't running :confused: :rolleyes: Looked down @ my amp meter gauge & it was sitting on 14, I say to myself, SELF, the Jeep is running, self says back to me, can't be, I can't feel it. Self says, hit the gas pedal dummy & you will see :hahaha: :laugh: :rofl: . Well self was right & it was running :2thumbsup: . Thanks JH for the info/help :thumbsup:

Now I just have to clean off the D-grease from the Summit coil adapter, I put a small bit of it (tiny) on there before insertion & JH says :nono:
 
#46 ·
Nice write up Hammer. I too am a little far off on doing this upgrade. But if I read correctly I can't do this upgrade. I have 77' 258 with BID dizzy. Prestolite right? I will have to do the GM HEI upgrade correct? Sorry for the simple question. I'm from the school of seeing and doing and always worried I miss something when reading the write ups. Thanks in advance.
 
#47 ·
Could do that,
Another option would be get the DuraSpark Distributor for 1978 CJ, rebuilt they cost $50 and then use the Stelth GM Ignition Modual $20-$35 or a CDI MultiSpark Ignition, Summit has their CDI in the Cat for $115 vs $130sale.

Could also buy the DuraSpark Ignition Modual, the better after market ones are $80 or so each. They are not as good as the orginals... but for a few bucks more the CDI is a better option for $40 more.

If you use the GM HEI Distributor you need to select the correct one, correct gear, ck thing out a bit. Will also need to match the spark advance curve, initial, vacuum, mechanical to match or close the the 258 curve. They are usually too agressive. They have other issues and limitations. The MSD and DUI, $300, have (curve) done already and they use a quality gear but they are pricey. Can do CDI & DuraSpark for less. There is a comparison done By JeepHammer
http://www.junkyardgenius.com/ignition/jeep/heicompair.html

I was truely impressed what the TeamRush did for my rebuilt engine that had new parts already.
Fred
 
#53 ·
Awesome thread. I did the basic stuff, no MSD or anything yet on my 79'.

I didn't start it for 3 months, pumped the gas, hit the key and it purrs like a kitten.

This upgrade has made a huge difference for me. Just wanted to say thanks!!!!!!!!
 
#58 · (Edited)
With the Prestolite ignition, since the distributor isn't compatible with anything else, I'd remove the factory ignition module along with the distributor.

With a Motorcraft distributor ('78 to '86 CJ) you can just tape over the factory connectors and leave the factory ignition in place as a 'Back Up',
But no point in that with the Prestolite since it's distributor doesn't get along with ANY of the aftermarket modules,
And for MSD or any other common CID module you will have to replace the distributor...

'78 or '79 Jeep/Motorcraft distributor out of CJ 304 V-8 engine will give you a distributor that is VERY tuneable, has a STRONG trigger, and is upgradeable with the large Ford cap/rotor.

I would use the Summit Racing brand of CDI module.
It's virtually an exact copy of the early MSD 6 series modules, but it's only $130 out the door,
And like all good clones/copies,
MSD adapters/connectors will all work with it.
Mallory/Summit kept the MSD color coding on the wires, so the diagram below will work with Summit or MSD 6 series units.


http://store.summitracing.com/partd...=SUM-850602&N=700+4294925143+115&autoview=sku



They say 'Mallory' makes this for Summit...
Mallory has been swiping ideas from MSD and others for 30 years, but at least they got this pretty close to correct instead of cobbling it up...
Internally, it's a MSD 6AL design, and MSD adapters & Connectors will work with it just fine.

Other than being made in 'China', I can't find any reason not to save about $50 between this one and a true MSD unit...
-----------------------

Now, as for removing the stock ignition from a CJ,
With Prestolite, this is REALLY easy!

Since the Prestolite was a 'Last Minute' add on, its right on the end of the wiring harness, kind of 'Dangling' there,
AND,
It's all self contained, so it's REALLY easy to remove!

It's LITERALLY dangling on the end of the ignition switch wire!

This should give you some idea of how to remove it,

Notice if you leave the factory Coil Positive Wire to connect to the 'Small Red' wire on the CDI unit,

Leave the alternator excite wire,
and cut the module power wire, you can remove the entire ignition system fairly easily?

In this case, cut just to the LEFT of the splice, leaving the 'Coil Positive Wire' to be retasked, and the 'Excite' wire for the alternator wire intact?



-----------------------------------------------

Leave the coil wire, but it won't connect to the ignition coil anymore,
It will connect to the 'CDI Small Red' wire to activate the module when the key switch is in the 'Start' or 'Run' position...

And the coil will be driven by the CDI module, in the case of MSD, that will be the 'Orange' & 'Small Black' wires to the coil.

 
#55 ·
Just a quick question. I have got two red wires that are connected at the coil connector and then one green one. I am going with the E coil and the connector only has one red. The 2nd red one is for my Tach correct? So do I splice them together at the new E coil connector?
 
#57 ·
Thanks man, but remember, you did the WORK!
I'm like the old fart that sits on the porch... I don't do WORK,
I give advice!
 
#380 ·
This is like the engineer who, after 30 years with the company was suddenly fired for no reason. About 6 months later the company calls him up and wants him to help them repair a machine that they can't get to run. The engineer goes in, looks at the machine for 10 minutes, takes a piece of chalk and makes an X on a part and tells them to replace that part and the machine will work. A few days later the company gets a bill from the engineer for $50,000.00. The company responds that it will not pay that bill without a detailed itemazation for the charges. The engineer sends them the following itemization;

1 chalk mark - $1.00
Knowing where to put it - $49,999.00

The company paid......

Thanks JH from a lot of us

P.S. Yes, I have a YJ but I have found that for the 87, the CJ information is more appropiate as the YJ changed a lot starting in 88.
 
#63 ·
NO.

The entire idea of 'Jeeping' is working with what you have!
Since you have an HEI now, work WITH it...

If you decide you want to increase your spark energy by 500% or more, then consider going back to a stock type Jeep/Motorcraft distributor and adding a CDI module.
---------------------

The Things I would do with a HEI or HEI clone immedately is...

1. Switch to a PREMIUM cap with REAL BRASS TERMINALS,
Not 'Brass Washed' aluminum terminals.
(The latest trick of the 'Importers')
Make sure it's some 'Color' and NOT BLACK!
Black caps are usually conductive and cause problems!

2. Make sure the coil GROUNDING STRAP is in place in the distributor cap coil well!
Virtually all of the 'Clones' and a lot of the 'Rebuilds' don't have the ground strap anymore, and it is NECESSARY!

3. Make sure you have the correct SCREWS for the coil you are using!
There were TWO coils used, and one has longer screws,
and If you use it with the 'Small' coil, the screws will crack the cap, stick out INSIDE the distributor cap, and make great grounds for your spark energy!

4. Use a PREMIUM center button in the distirbutor cap.
Most come with hard graphite or worse yet, compressed carbon black buttons which spread conductive dust EVERYWHERE inside the distributor cap causing cross fires!

5. Use a PREMIUM silicone seal between cap and coil!
DO NOT USE BLACK!
The black ones are normally RUBBER, not Silicone, and they are usually colored with Carbon Black, the same conductive substance used to color the cheap caps.

6. Use a PREMIUM ROTOR and change it often!
At least once a year!
If you start seeing a bunch of carbon building up around the center button terminal on the rotor,
It's time to change center buttons and rotors!
 
#64 ·
I just picked up MSD part 84039 from Advance. The red Power tower is in 4 parts, the red plastic part, the brass looking part that the wire connects to, and the metal looking ring along with a zinc type screw. Did the ones others bought come this way? And if copper or brass is best for ignition parts then why the steel screw?
 
#65 ·
This isn't your PRIMARY ignition part!
This is a temporary adapter to get you along until you change coils/modules, ect.

If you want to use the 'Factory' coil with the 'Upgraded' cap terminals,
Then USE THE FORD WIRES! They have the correct coil wire terminals and you don't need an adapter!

Screw goes up through from the bottom, with the 'Fuzzy' looking terminal material on it first.
Once through the plastic insulator, the brass 'Thing' screws on the top.
 
#66 ·
I know this is 6 cyl thread-I have everything to do the adaptor-Echlin high end NAPA cap-rotor-Belden make your own wire set-with seporators-no zip ties PLEASE..lol...MSD blaster 3 coil--ITs on a 79' 304-Is the module switch a must do when then conversion is done..?or can i do that down the road a bit.?
 
#67 ·
I have the same engine. I'm staying with the stock module to start with. I read one of JeepHammers posts, and He said one could see hefty improvement even with the OEM module. I plan on building up a spare module using the GM unit mounted inside a duraspark housing using the original harness. I might run them side by side, and switch between the two and post any diferences noticed or not.
 
#68 ·
Thanks for the input-im going to (no kidding) carry a spare Ford module around with me as a worst case thing.And as you said build the Gm--i like the retard the Ford gives for an easier start.

Own a Jeep YJ now and love the damn thing wanted a nice un cut up CJ for awhile and i think i found a great Jeep for a first time CJ.
 
#69 ·
Pry the guts out of that 'Spare' module and do a 'Stealth HEI', putting the HEI clone module in the DuraSpark case.
It will bolt in and plug in right back where your DuraSpark is since it's in the DuraSpark case,
And since you use the DuraSpark Connectors, it will plug right back into the factory harness.

http://www.junkyardgenius.com/ignition/jeep/HEI01.html

Costs about $25 to do and keeps you from having to change modules in a mud hole, and MUCH cheaper than the NAPA 'premium' modules with poor track records.
 
#71 ·
Famous Last Words...

Most of the Premium cases purported to be made in the USA...
AREN'T.

The last few dozen I've taken apart to make 'Stealth HEI's' out of were circuit boards printed in Korea or South America.
Components on the boards made in China, Taiwan or Korea,
Cases made in South Africa.
Wiring 'Pig Tails' made in South Africa or South America...

And virtually ALL component pieces SUB STANDARD.
------------------------------

At least with the Stealth HEI' you KNOW you are getting a Clone module, but a clone module that will sustain the current draw the 'Import' DuraSpark 'Replacment' won't.
 
#73 ·
What happened to all of the nice pics, JH? They're not showing up! :(
 
#74 ·
Just a note on the parts list on the first page,

went to Advance Auto today to get these parts and "Blue Streak Premium Brass Terminal Distributor Cap & Rotor p/n KCR 202X" was no longer available.

And " Autolite p/n 96171" was on backorder.

As I wasn't sure what the application was, I gave up and went home.

I thought I saw somewhere these parts fit a 82 ford 300 in a E150, not sure and didn't want to do the wrong parts swap dance all afternoon. Is that the proper application for the distributor parts and ignition wires?

Also, what is a good quality brand that would be redily available.
 
#75 ·
Some emissions information.
Last week I had my jeep smogged and failed so I have a free retest. I did the "team rush" upgrade during the week and have not driven at all.
Here are the results.

................RPM...CO2%....02%....HC ppm.....CO%....NO ppm
Before TR
15mph ...1429...11.5.....4.4.....86...........0.04.......1598.....
25mph ...2201...13.6.....1.4.....70...........0.31........954.....
After TR
15mph...1449...11.64....4.4.....67...........0.04........1879
25mph...1434....11.5.....4.7.....54...........0.03........1606

This is not scientific by any stretch of the imagination. It was two different Techs, and two separate instruments. The 2nd tech let my jeep idle for about 35 minutes before he ran the sniffer:brickwall. You can also see from the RPM's that he dogged it to much:brickwall. Not to mention I only have the belt driven fan so the engine must have been hot as hell:brickwall he had the bay door closed :brickwall and no fan on it. :brickwall

All that said there was a 23% decrease in both the HC and the CO. I blame the high NOx levels on the idiot tech.
This tests where performed under load on a dyno for California emissions.

It is my understanding that "Team Rush" comes into play more at higher RPM's. On the freeway I was able to stay in 5th gear on hills that make me downshift.
Excellent upgrade:cheers2:, Thank you Hammer. :2thumbsup:
 
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#78 ·
Actually, this isn't surprising at all.
Pretty much standard for the guys that do this upgrade to PASS emissions!
(Remember, pour some 'emissions juice' in the tank before you go, that will help too!)

Getting the CORRECT cylinder lit.
And getting a CORRECT Ignition/Burn in that cylinder makes a HUGE difference!

The reduction in hydrocarbons in the exhaust was from ALL cylinders getting fired at the correct time, and a more complete burn when they ignite.,

Nothing like burning ALL the fuel you can when it gets into the cylinder!
If you are pumping it through, might as well burn as much of it as you can while it's there!
Just too expensive to waste these days!

Glad to hear it helped you out!
 
#79 · (Edited)
Now if you could just walk me through passing the high NOx.
I think it has to do with low RPMs due to large tires not creating enough vaccume or something
 
#80 ·
I was kind of wondering, the RPM seemd VERY low...
Maybe stock tires for the test?
Alcohol in the fuel tank?

They make that fuel additive to get you past the Emissions tests and most people say it works...
 
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