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Skid Plates

36K views 82 replies 15 participants last post by  Gramps 
#1 · (Edited)
here are the pics of the 'skid plates' used on the Patriots with the "Off Road Pkg" (AWL) and FDII.

the first is the Engine/Trans skid plate and the second are the Fuel Tank skid plates (takes 2, a left and right side)

part numbers and prices are in a post following this. i got mine in and hopefully will have them on my Compass in about 10 days.

ENJOY!!!
 

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#36 ·
you are correct with those part numbers, and my suggestion is to BUY THEM NOW while they are dirt cheap. once Mopar realizes they have made a mistake with the pricing, it WILL be corrected.

again, the part numbers and prices of the two side shields for the Engine/Trans Skid Plate:

5116330AB.."transmission shield" $2.45!!!
5116057AB...."accessory drive shield" $7.35!!!! and these are the LIST PRICES!

sorry, no pics....forgot my camera this AM. but i did see that they attach first, and THEN the Skid Plate goes over the edges of them. i hope to not forget my brain tomorrow and get the pics. either that or remember to bring home my shields.......:D
 
#39 ·
thanks bro..also..

part no. 06502790 "retainer" holds the Trans & Acc shields.

but i m confuce about followin parts..
part no. 05116058AA "panel;Close Out" LEFT
part no. 05116059AA "panel; Close Out" RIGHT
part no. 06104725AA "Nut&Washer" holds the "panel"M6x1
ARE abore three parts already installed?
 
#37 ·
Are these splash shields different than what I already have? They look about the same.

Here is a pic of one of the hex holes on the Compass for the Fuel tank Skid Plate and on the FD II.
 

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#38 ·
INTERESTING.....they ARE the same as the ones on your COMPASS. does the Patriot have a different setup? just wonder if the Patriots without the FDII have the 'one piece' plastic shield and the Compass' have these '3 pieces'.

"hvac" (?) had to 'cut off' the sides of his shield to have 'side shields'....could this be the difference? maybe we Compass owners don't NEED these additional parts....just remove the center plastic shield and replace it with the Skid Plate.

hey, Patriot owners, does the bottom of YOURS look different from "Gramps" Compass?:confused:
 
#41 ·
and the Compass' have these '3 pieces'.
maybe we Compass owners don't NEED these additional parts....just remove the center plastic shield and replace it with the Skid Plate.
Mine never had the Center Shield, just the 2 side shields, from the factory.

thanks to "hvac59" and "Gramps" and their pics, i've seen more of the bottom sides of MK's than i have in person.....
I got a million of them, both Compass and Patriot FD II. The only problem is when I took them I didn't know what I would need pictures of....:rolleyes:
 
#43 ·
It looks like we have some variations on the lower shields, either a 1 piece or a 2 piece with or without center plastic or skid plate. Fascinating!

I still wonder what the factory used on the engine skid plate in the center and 3 rear holes to screw the bolts into? With the parts books being so lean on information we may not know unless someone with an FD II takes the time to pull theirs down and take a look.
 
#44 ·
riv-nuts

Just poking around here. I have a 98 xj. But my car is a 02 jetta tdi. I installed an aluminum skid from diesel geeks. It included the needed large riv-nuts (And a simple install tool). See if you can contact them and buy a small bag from them or get info on there supplier.

If you end up buying a large quantity post it. I'll buy a bag of 10 for $13. These things are darn handy for other things too. I bought a kit from harbor freight that has small rivet nuts, works great for adding thread to thin metal plastic etc.
 
#45 ·
These Rivnuts are for a 13mm (+.01/-0) HEX hole stamped in the sheet metal not the more common round ones that could be used by just drilling a hole. The clinch range is 1 - 3.5mm (.0395 - .1378"), the MK sheet metal is about .050 or so, or at least within range. I don't want anybody thinking that these are something else. See the last pic in post 13 or use this link: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4935883&postcount=13
 
#48 · (Edited)
Well folks, the 08 model of Compass is slightly different in the front. I had a chance to get some photos this morning while I was getting an oil change.
(Did I mention I love my Jeep dealer :D)

I have a photo that is of the same view as gramps
eSkid Plates 016.jpg and it looks rather different. (There is actually a molded hook on the passenger side as well..)

There is a square cut out above a round hole. It looks like it is designed to have something bolted in place as an insert into the rail over the hole....

I am going to see what I can do to get some photos posted.

The rear is exactly the same so the gas tank plates should be able to be installed the same way with the hex rivnuts...
 
#55 ·
Lotta quotes so bare with me. :)

Well folks, the 08 model of Compass is slightly different in the front. I had a chance to get some photos this morning while I was getting an oil change.
(Did I mention I love my Jeep dealer :D)

I have a photo that is of the same view as Gramps
eSkid Plates 016.jpg and it looks rather different. (There is actually a molded hook on the passenger side as well..)

There is a square cut out above a round hole. It looks like it is designed to have something bolted in place as an insert into the rail over the hole....

I am going to see what I can do to get some photos posted.

The rear is exactly the same so the gas tank plates should be able to be installed the same way with the hex rivnuts...
hmmm missing those two holes in the beam that are probably for holding the nut to tighten the whole thing down...interesting
The only difference that is going to matter is your center hole is round and not hex. The far left is out of view and (mine) is covered with a bit of close out that will need to be removed or trimmed. If you look at where those 2 rectangular holes are on yours in the flange that hangs down it appears to be the same size as the flange on mine, I just don't have the rectangular holes like you do. The "towers" on the front of the Skid Plate are 1" tall and let the plate hang down below the flange.

I'm guessing they have a snap in or screw in insert based on the 2 small holes next to the large square one...
I have no idea what these rectangular holes are for, maybe something on an export for mounting photon torpedoes or laser canons. :D

I just read the entire thread and am more confused now...

So you guys all own Compasses? They do not fit? Holes are not in correct spots or are they? It looks like one person actually mounted it. But it looks like its a Patriot. Do I have all that correct?
The mounting holes are in the correct spot. Both the Compass and the non-FDII Patriot do not have the nuts preinstalled in the body for bolting the plates to. This is what a lot of the discussion is about. The post about the differences in the front rail MAY apply to both the Compass and the Patriot but someone with an 08 Pat needs to check and see...
Correct :thumbsup: they will fit and there's nothing that we can't figure out. You'll need to mic or use a caliper on that round hole and let me know what size it is.

OK, so why not pinch the larger hole (in the body) with washers and nuts on both sides the sheet metal? Or possibly take a normal high grade nut and weld on the additional material to make it fit. Or just weld the nut to the body...
No access to inside the channel for putting a bolt threw from the inside and no way to hold a wrench on it to tighten anything down.

Not to worry, all of this will make since in the next week or two. I am working on devising a way that anybody can do this at home without any special tools except maybe a pop riveter and a rotary file. Certainly not a welder. :eek: The fasteners that we need have been the trouble, they're Hex Rivnuts and not very very easy to find in small quantities but are they ever cool! :cool: I have a batch to try out due in on Monday. The weather is still working against me. They've changed the forecast and it now looks like I won't have a dry day until Wednesday to try them out. If for some reason this first batch doesn't work out I do have a different one that I can order (more expensive) that I know will work. Quality takes time!

Oh, and hvac59 did his on and FD I Patriot. Same thing except the Patriot doesn't have the a splash shield in the front like the Compass.
 
#52 ·
I just read the entire thread and am more confused now...

So you guys all own Compasses? They do not fit? Holes are not in correct spots or are they? It looks like one person actually mounted it. But it looks like its a Patriot. Do I have all that correct?
 
#53 ·
The mounting holes are in the correct spot. Both the Compass and the non-FDII Patriot do not have the nuts pre-installed in the body for bolting the plates to. This is what a lot of the discussion is about. The post about the differences in the front rail MAY apply to both the Compass and the Patriot but someone with an 08 Pat needs to check and see...
 
#54 ·
Ok, so why not pinch the larger hole (in the body) with washers and nuts on both sides the sheet metal? Or possibly take a normal high grade nut and weld on the additional material to make it fit. Or just weld the nut to the body...
 
#56 ·
Anyone Need An Engine Skid Plate?

yesterday i had a dealer in Mass call me for this part (5105236AB), but didn't buy it. i'm surprised we still had it. i had ordered 2 (1 for me) a month ago or so, so we still have ONE in stock. looks like according to Chryslers "DealerConnect" there are only 3 dealers in the country with one and only ONE in the PDC system, in Chicago.

if anyone wants this one, you can call me at 1-800-969-1992 after 7am EDT (we're in Indianapolis). i'll sell it for Mopar List $160.00 (-25% if you mention your screen name to me) and i'll even ship it anywhere within the continental US for free. just want to help out a fellow MK owner.

Kevin
Tom O'Brien Chrysler-Jeep-Dodge of Greenwood, Inc

P.S. i thought i posted this on this site earlier, but guess not.....thanks "Gramps" for pointing that out! my bad......:(
 
#57 ·
yesterday i had a dealer in Mass call me for this part (5105236AB), but didn't buy it. i'm surprised we still had it. i had ordered 2 (1 for me) a month ago or so, so we still have ONE in stock. looks like according to Chryslers "DealerConnect" there are only 3 dealers in the country with one and only ONE in the PDC system, in Chicago.
sorry, a dealer in Michigan bought the one we had. i'm surprised i didn't get one call about this. did everyone that was wanting one GET ONE?:confused:
 
#58 ·
Finally got my scanner up and running...again. Here's a view of the Patriot FD II that I'm sure many owners will never hope to see out on the trail. Shows very nicely the skid plates and the supports on the rear lower control arms.

 
#59 ·
Interesting. The front skid plate does not look like the ones we bought...
Must have been the planned version ....

The size of the cutout for the tow hitch appears to be the same size as the indented area on my bumper. I noticed that your hitch has a smaller cut out and was kind of wondering about that...

Now, if I can finally get some sleep I might be a bit more coherent...
 
#60 ·
Interesting. The front skid plate does not look like the ones we bought...
Must have been the planned version ....
No cut out for the oil filter access. Sure glad they put that in!

The size of the cutout for the tow hitch appears to be the same size as the indented area on my bumper. I noticed that your hitch has a smaller cut out and was kind of wondering about that...

Now, if I can finally get some sleep I might be a bit more coherent...
The pic does show the cut out along the indent. Mine was cut to the pattern provided in the instructions. Whatever floats your boat. Now go get some sleep.
 
#62 ·
Here's some preliminary info that I've posted on another site.

This is what I did on the 3 rear and 1 center hole for the engine/trans skid plate. These are called T-Nuts and can be found a lumber/building supply store. I actually got mine at my local ACE Hardware and they are M10 to match up with the Hex Rivnuts. There are 2 types, 1 will have holes as seen in the pictures, the other will have spiked tabs. They are used for installing "nut plates" in a piece of lumber by drilling a 1/2" hole and then nailing them on, the spiked ones require no nails of course. I attached mine with 1/8" steel pop rivets.

FYI: a 1/8" steel rivet/steel mandrel has a shear strength of 450 in/lbs and tensile strength of 350 in/lbs; a 5/32 has 525 and 500. An 1/8" aluminum rivet with steel mandrel has 210 and 325 while the 5/32 has 340 and 490.

The 1st shot is just the T-Nuts, the 2nd is installed inside the center channel, the 3rd and 4th are installed on the bottom of the rear cross member. I didn't see the need to try and snake them inside the rear channel.

The Hex Rivnuts, what a PITA! I have 3 of the wrong size that were "recommended" to me to try out, they ranged in price from a freebie and from $1.20 - $2.25. Then after nearly 2 weeks I finally received a price quote on the correct ones and ordered them last Monday (4/7). I don't know if the "1 week delivery" was when they will get them from Belgium or when I will have them, so I'm still waiting. They'll end up costing about $1.30 each and I can make 11 sets from the 100 that I ordered. Update 4/18/08: still no word on these. I think that they maybe run batches as they get orders, it's not a "ship off shelf" item. I ordered from a second supplier on 4/16 (with plants in the US, Germany, France and Brazil) and again, I'm waiting.

You'll also need:
3 - M10 x 1.5 x 50mm Hex bolts, class 9.6 or better (equivalent to an SAE grade 5)
10 - M10 x 1.5 x 25mm (same as above)
13 - heavy flat washers (I am using 3/8")
 

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#64 ·
Not much or hard work to it really, drilling 1/8" holes and popping a few rivets while laying on your back. I still would like to know what the factory uses on these 4 holes.
 
#65 ·
Good news: I finally received the correct rivnuts! :D They are pretty snug, a slight tap with a hammer is all that it takes to get them in the hole.

Bad news: It takes so much torque to collapse them that they will turn in the thin sheet metal sheet metal if you just put a wrench or socket on your bolt and start turning it down..:(

They do make a special hand tool for these that's about $40. Much better than $649 for the least expensive power tool! I'm ordering the $40 tool tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.
 
#67 ·
time to go north of mke now...if i recall there is farmland out there that the owner will let u wheel on. wish i remember the name(s).
 
#68 ·
Disclaimer: I hesitate to post Jeep list prices. Some dealers may charge less, many charge more. My dealer likes to charge 15% over list unless I complain.

Engine/Trans Skid Plate......pn 5105236AB....Mopar List Price $160.00



Fuel Tank Skid Plate, left....pn 5105235AA.............................43.35
Fuel Tank Skid Plate, right..pn 5105234AA............................. 43.35



Some of you may want or need these:
5116330AB.."transmission shield" $2.45!!!
5116057AB...."accessory drive shield" $7.35!!!!



The hardest part to this ordeal was finding the fasteners to install in the frame work and channels to enable me to bolt up the Skid Plates. The Hex Rivnuts have been taken care of. I also have listings for a couple that you can get from Jeep and my own supply that I am also selling.

I thought the T-Nuts (also called Tee Nuts and Weld Nuts) would be easy since I found mine at my local ACE Hardware store in my little town of 4000. I bought the last 3 that they had last Saturday and asked them to order a "supply" of them but they haven't been able to give me any answer on availability yet. I've checked at the local Home Depot and Menards in the next big town over and they don't carry anything in the right size and configuration. Meanwhile I have done some internet shopping and found just the right pieces but they are custom made and would take 3-4 weeks to get them with a price to match. I also found the same thing without the holes drilled for the pop rivets. I'm ordering them on Monday, should have them in about a week and I'll drill them and make them available.

The M10 T-Nuts are hard to find. If some of you want to look around on your own they also make these with a 3/8-16 tread and you'll need 4 - 3/8"x1" bolts to go with them.

You will need 4 of the T-Nuts for the '07 MK's, they are used in the center hole and three rear holes on the front Skid Plate and are attached with 1/8" pop rivets. The '08's may be able to use these in the 3 round holes in their front mounting locations. I used 1/8" steel rivet/steel mandrel pop rivets on mine.

FYI: a 1/8" steel rivet/steel mandrel has a shear strength of 450 in/lbs and tensile strength of 350 in/lbs; a 5/32 has 525 and 500. An 1/8" aluminum rivet with steel mandrel has 210 and 325 while the 5/32 has 340 and 490.

You'll also need:
3 - M10 x 1.5 x 50mm Hex bolts, class 9.6 or better (equivalent to an SAE grade 5)
10 - M10 x 1.5 x 25mm (same as above)
13 - heavy flat washers (I am using 3/8")
and some split ring lock washers, shake proof washers or, what I like, the blue label, medium strength threadlocker made by Loctite.

Installation

Get your Jeep up in the air so that you can work on it using ramps, jack stands or, if you're lucky enough, a hoist. Don't forget to block the tires to prevent it rolling.

Compass owners only - you'll need to remove the front close out by using a T20 Torq bit on the 7 screws and 2 small screw drivers on the 4 plugs on the ends. Pry out the center plug by inserting the small screw drivers in the indentations on the sides of the body of the plug and gently wiggling out the center until you can slip a trim stick or pair of needle nose pliers between the body of the plug and the insert and finish prying it out. Remove the rest of the plug.

All MK's - the bolts that hold the either the rest of the close out or the bolts that hold the plastic belly pan on all take a 10mm socket. Remove as necessary.

Install the T-Nuts - These are pretty easy to install. Insert the T-nut with the barrel up in the holes, center them and drill with a nice sharp 1/8" drill bit. This is pretty tough material and I recommend a new premium grade drill bit. Mark an alignment location and as you drill, insert (but don't pull) a pop rivet to hold it in place. Drill the second hole and insert a pop rivet there too, and then drill the last hole. Clean off any burrs on the inside of the channels, I used a flat blade screw driver bent to fit in the main hole to clean the burrs. On the center hole I slid the T-Nut up inside, aligned the holes and popped it into place. On the 3 rear holes I attached them from the bottom side.

The 1st shot is just the T-Nuts, the 2nd is installed inside the center channel, the 3rd and 4th are installed on the bottom of the rear cross member. I didn't see the need to try and snake them inside the rear channel.









These are the tools that you'll need. The shorter the 3/4" wrench, the better.



This is the pieces that make up the Assembly tool


This is it assembled. Where it says "lube" I used some wheel bearing grease but tried some air tool lub and found that almost anything will do. This is considered a "low load bearing" surface.



Here's how to use it. http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-y...iy-rivnut-puller-install-trunk-cargo-net.html
 
#69 ·
Here are all of the fasteners that are usable for this installation.



The ones from Jeep are not stocked by many of the dealers, so you'll need to order them. They are slightly smaller than the hex holes so be careful when installing them that they don't fall in your face when you're trying to hold the assemble tool and the three wrenches that it takes to install them. I did use one of each of the Jeep Rivnuts on mine just to confirm that they will work. So if you want to get yours from Jeep you have the two options shown.

What I will supply and preferred to use when all was said and done are the three items shown on the left. You'll need 4 T-Nuts (pop rivets included), 7 of the second one (full Hex) and 2 of the third (half hex). The first one on the left is the T-Nut that I have on order, the second is the Rivnut used in the Sheet Metal Hex Holes and the third is in the rear channel for the fuel tank skid plates. The one used in the sheet metal is a very nice .001" interference fit that will hold it in place while you getting your wrenches on it. I was able to tap them in with a 12oz ball peen hammer. The hex holes do very slightly so some of them took a firmer tap than others but still no problems. The rear most hex hole for the gas tank skid plates takes the smaller one. That hole is actually in a piece of steel that about .2" thick and just didn't want to cooperate. I used the smaller one there and it worked fine.

For those that are thinking that these are a big difference in size, the .37mm difference between the largest and smallest is only .014". The hex holes generally measured 12.87 and the smallest Rivnut is 12.55, .32mm = .012", not a problem.

Installing the Hex Rivnuts - This is really easy too, except for one on the Fuel Tank that I'll get to a little later. Using the tool as described put a reference mark on the pulling nut, assemble it with the Rivnut on the end and tap it into the hole. Hold the ½" jam nut stationary with a ¾" wrench along with the allen head bolt and turn the M10 nut with a 17mm wrench. Watch you refernce mark on the pulling nut (the M10) and turn it 3 ½ turns. After you've done the 3 Rivnuts in the front you'll develop a feel for how tight these need to be and it will make the rears a bit easier.

Here are my 3 in the front. The center one is one of my oversized Rivnuts that I used because I slightly oversized that hole while I was experimenting before I made the Assembly Tool. I have these available too if anybody makes a boo-boo. Use the tool as described and you won't need any of these.



Note on Compass. If you want to re-inastall your front close out you need to trim it. I just drilled the one corner and used a blade for plastic in my jig saw.

Before:



After:



Re-install the close out now.

With the Rivnuts installed your ready to mount the Engine/Trans Skid Plate.

First, just start the three M10x25 bolts/washers in the rear and one of the M10x50 in the center. Now that the skid plate is holding up on its own with these in loosely, push up very hard on the front of the Skid Plate and put in two of the M10x50 bolts. Now swap the long bolt that you had in the center with a short one and put the long one in the remaining hole up front. The reason that the front is so hard to push up is that you are compressing against the side shields. There is nothing else in the way. If you like, now is a good time to remove each bolt separately, put some Threadlocker on it if you didn't use lock washers and snug each one of them down. If you want a torque spec, don't go any more than 20 - 25 lb/ft. You don't want to over compress the Rivnuts. You're done on the front.



Installing the rear Rivnuts requires that you remove a close out on each side between the body and gas tank. These are used on the Compass but not on the FD II Patriot and I'm not sure about the other Patriots. I can't find a listing in the parts books for them but the pictures that I have of the FD II don't show them. Use a 10mm socket to remove the three nuts on the left side and four nuts on the right side. There is also a section of wiring harness attached to these. Once you drop the close out down you can push out the plastic retainer for the harness.





Once these are removed you can install the outboard Rivnuts just like you did the three in the front.



Next install the ones in the rear that goes into the thicker rear framework and uses the ½ Hex Rivnut.

 
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