I changed the water pump, tstat fan belts, had the head done and the radiator flushed and tested.
What else could it be. THe stupid thing is still over heating.
New shroud and new fan/clutch Sorry left that out
EDITED TO INCLUDE MORE INFO:
Hi All,
I decided to clean this post up and be a little clearer on what has been done to the heap to this point.
Truck seemed to be running fin when I first bought it. But it was cooler in Jan.
I did the basics:
Plugs
Wirers
Oil/filter
Air filter
{Shock,Brakes,Tirers/rims} Yes no affect on cooling I know, just part of the list
Flushed the coolant (block and radiator ) with Prestone kit.
Hoses checked ok
Changed out tstat
Clutch fan
Flushed and pressure tested radiator
No coolant in oil
New water pump
Another new tstat
New belt
Pulled the fuel tank and replace bad hose to fuel pump
New radiator cap (x2)
Pulled head and had it rebuild and resurfaced Put in new seals, gaskets etc.
new fan shroud
Some of this I did some the mechanic did so I am going to check his work when it gets home.
Yes I had the block flushed too. Sorry I did a 2 part flushing. one with rad in the heep and one where we sent the rad out.
I put a hose in the block and used the prestone flush kit.
just an off the wall thought ... what about pulling the upper and lower hoses and putting comressed air in the block? or is there to many place to block up to get a good pressure build up to blow out what ever may be blocking it?
Yes I had the block flushed too. Sorry I did a 2 part flushing. one with rad in the heep and one where we sent the rad out.
I put a hose in the block and used the prestone flush kit.
just an off the wall thought ... what about pulling the upper and lower hoses and putting comressed air in the block? or is there to many place to block up to get a good pressure build up to blow out what ever may be blocking it?
Could the Coolant Temperature Sensor have anything to do with it? Heck, I don't know. There are about 453 different sensors on these engines that tell them when to start operating and when to shut off. 453 being an exageration of course.
Oh, forgot to mention also - I had a problem like this awhile back. Problem was that the mixture of coolant to water was to high (or was it to low), it was one of the two. I had to much coolant and to little water I think it was.
OK i got the heep back home. It ran hot all the way (12 or 15 mls) never cooled down. In the past with air moving over it it would cool down. Not this time. I ran 250 and I tested it with my IR and it showed cooler on the bottom but was reading "HI" off the scale on the top.
So how can I tell if the PO put in the right rad? Would there be a part # on this thing? May be I have a 4banger rad not the 6cyl one?
I talked to the shop about the timing thing as I did think of that. and they said it was all controlled by the computer
Is there a way to see if the computer is good?
The heep seems in time.
I asked them about the distributer and if it could be off a tooth and they said even if it was it would not get that hot that fast.
I was running the heater all the way home too and that did not get the temp down. Might have saved me from over heating but did not bring it down at all.
do what varnish said, let it cool down, take the rad cap off and then start it. when it warms up check to see if the coolant is circulating. If it's not, it's a bad/wrong pump or t-stat.
OK this got the better of me and i ran the jeep for a few moments. It was a little low on water/coolant but the overflow was full so I know it di dnot leak out.
I watched it with the cap off and saw some movement but nothing big. the temp gage said 210
When i shut the jeep down the fan stopped right away so that makes me believe it is a good clutch as it stopped right away and did not spin.
Im gonna get a new t stat and gasket on Friday and see what happens with that. I am going to take the one I have and drop it in a pot of water and see how long it takes to open.
I had the very same problem a few months ago, did everything you did, short of the head. Checked the timing about 5 times, everything, to no avail, got disgusted and parked it for about a month, decided to drive it to work one day, and wow, no more problem, actually runs cooler than it did originally, got me???
still going just fine. I was thinking maybe it had an air pocket or something, but really don't know, I burped it numerous times as well. Good luck
I had a similar problem with a Cutlass years ago. Finally fixed it by flushing the block with muratic acid, no crap. Turns out the block was so rusted it could not transfer heat efficiently. Just pour it in, let it fizz, and rinse it really good!
I had a similar problem with a Cutlass years ago. Finally fixed it by flushing the block with muratic acid, no crap. Turns out the block was so rusted it could not transfer heat efficiently. Just pour it in, let it fizz, and rinse it really good!
I just bought a new radiator for mine today. As I was talking to the guy, he was saying that Robertshaw thermostats suck big time and Stant is the brand to get. He also suggested getting the Super Stant, which, if it fails, it automatically locks in the open position, preventing major overheating. He also suggested the 180 for Florida.
Anyway, I got a heavy-duty, all-metal (no plastic tanks for me) Modine for $130 with a lifetime warranty.
I just bought a new radiator for mine today. As I was talking to the guy, he was saying that Robertshaw thermostats suck big time and Stant is the brand to get. He also suggested getting the Super Stant, which, if it fails, it automatically locks in the open position, preventing major overheating. He also suggested the 180 for Florida.
Anyway, I got a heavy-duty, all-metal (no plastic tanks for me) Modine for $130 with a lifetime warranty.
I figured it's about time I entered this thread. I'm no cooling system expert, but I played this same "ball game" with my jeep for the last 6 or so months. Rusty up there can vouch for that.
So judging by all the posts, and all the things you have tried to do, I have what I hope is an answer to your problem. So you have an IR thermo? Perfect. Run the engine till it gets pretty warm and start diagnosing. Measure as many different spots of the block as you can and note ANY hotspots. Measure the exhaust manifold tubes for each cylinder and see if one is hotter/cooler than the other. Also, are you still going through coolant?? Have you retested the block for combustion gasses in the coolant?
If you had the head redone, and its been tested for leaks and passed, then one of the above methods should dhow something. There is probably a good chance that there is a clog in your block. There is one way to find out for sure but it really sucks. And thats to pull the motor and knock out the freeze plugs. That will allow you total access to see if there is blockage in the water jacket. My case ended up costing me a new motor. Hope this helps, Brian
I got it from a local radiator shop that had been around for about 30 years. I like to support local businesses when I can.
And I would stick with the 195* t-stat as well.
I saw this on an XJ. We ended up swapping in a newer style coolant res. For some reason the old one would allow enough pressure to keep it cooled down.
OK i put the 195 in it and still over heats badly....
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Jeep Enthusiast Forums
18.5M posts
726.7K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to all jeep owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, engine swaps, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!