Its my first time changing fluids
I have already drained my dana, it has very little oil in it, about 200 ml or less.
I also have already refill it but I'm not sure I did it properly :/
I did not remove the Dana from the Jeep, I pour oil into the Dana until it stared to leak from the refill port.
The dana is tilted, so I'm not sure I out enough oil in it.
It took 1 Qt bottle + 3/4 Qt bottle
Its that enough? I have seeb post that says it takes 2Qt and some that says 4Qt :/
Also my shopping for my oil, I saw some aditives,would you recommend any?
The D300 officially takes 3.9 pts. So if you did 1.75 qts., that's almost full. (Sorry, my conversion to liters is not the best. Silly American system.)
What type of oil did you use? I have read other people's posting that say to use 10/30. Some use ATF. The FSM say to use the same gear oil as the T4/T5 trans - 75/90.
I put Pennzoil Syncromesh in both the trans and tcase.
I did not have to drop the tcase. I just placed a funnel under the drain plug to catch it in a container. The fill plug (as you know) is just above the drain.
You did it right. The Dana 300 takes a GL5 rated gear oil, same as the diffs. No additives needed. The transmission however takes a GL4 rated gear oil or synchromesh fluid. A gl5 rated oil has too much sulfur in it which affects the synchromesh parts.
The Jeep T4/T5 use brass syncro rings, GL5 won't damage the syncro rings. That being said:
Tremec has specified 30W MOTOR OIL for the NON-World Class T-5's. http://www.pro-forceperformance.com/t-5_history.htm
I used api gl-5 sae 80w-90 quaker state super quadrolube for the Dana, good thing you mention its not the same for the Transmission as I was thinking on using the same for it
What should I buy for the Transmission? And how much does it take? I'm pretty sure it's a T177 (it has 3 speeds + reverse)
The Napa 85w90 GL4
Part #SL24239
Mfg By Sta-Lube, sibisdary of CRC Industries
Bar Code 72213-24239
I figure any synchromesh fluid works too from what I have seen posted. The T-4 and T-5 are the real picky ones, but...
Mike is 100 % correct on the fluid issue from every thing I have read.
Also I agree and would not consider lighter fluids as they do not have the correct materials invested to keep the gears from galling. Oils and grease are pretty specific. In a gear box at least five factors need consideration. Shear, compression off the gears as they slide under a load. Rolling as the bearings turn at any speed. The bronze synchronization system as addressed by Mike. Then heat and the ability for the substance to cling wile at incline for long periods of time.
RN
Mike is correct, the products being discussed are a Synthetic base non mineral and you will find:
Active vs. Inactive Sulfur
Sulfur occurs in lubricants in several forms. The petroleum distillate fraction of solvent-refined base oils contains organosulfur compounds that carry through the refining process. By contrast, hydrocracked base stocks contain little or no sulfur as a result of the high severity catalytic process by which they are made. Similarly, synthetic base oils also do not typically contain sulfurous components. Many lubricant additives, however, do contain sulfur compounds. Mike addressed this with the lower levels of sulfur found in GL4 vs GL5
You will also note the synthetic gear oils flow light 75w90 when poured looks like a 15w40 motor oil, much thinner then mineral base hypoid gear oil.
I posted an earlier response due to the history I've had with WC-T5's when they came out transmission people called the syncro rings paper lined and they required engine oil as any sulfur would tear up the syncro rings even GL4. My bad - Sorry
I opened up my Dana 300 to inspect the gears and reseal the leaking cover, when I drained the fluid it was red like trans fluid, looked and smelled as old as the case looked, but thought it would of had gear oil in it before I drained it, I guess I will just put the gl4 in it and see what happens
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