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4.0l xj 97 motor into yj 87

35K views 252 replies 10 participants last post by  Bigdog223344 
#1 ·
Hi all
i would like to pick your brains lol,
well not so long a go i had got my hands on a cheap Cherokee xj, i ve bean real busy pulling the block out and transferring that 4.0l to the yj.
I had also decided to go with the AW4 transmission out of the xj.
also decided to stick with the NP231 transfer case from the yj. and got my hands on a SYE KIT .
Everything has gone well up to now, the only thing that's holding me back is the wiring from the jeep xj RHD 1997,
i found this circuit pinout diagram for the Cherokee xj all the wires are numbered in circuit and not function, so that didn't not help much

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-s...-2001/Wiring_Diagrams.swf#toolbar=0#toolbar=0

i need to use the yj bulkhead connector and try to splice the xj pinout connector into yj.
Ive already cleand up the wiring loom from the yj that's all labeled and ready to go, i used this wiring diagram,

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/06yfz450/461960d8.jpg

now i just cant find the write diagram so i can connect it the jeep yj bulkhead.:confused::confused:
who can help me out here
 

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#84 ·
It may be connected to the bk wire at A1 on the C100 connector, but I am not sure. Regardless, it should go through cavity 5 on C107. You can check for ground there.
 
#86 ·
ok A1 i already had connected to the ground on the battery, but i cant find the c107
am i right if i connect all the black / white wires to ground on the c100 connector
 
#88 ·
all those wires are connected i thought i had mentioned that i did not strip my harness,
i hot wired the car from the starter direct to the battery and the motor sprung to life, well life it turned over.
so the next thing i wanted to check was to see if i was getting any spark at the plug wires and guess what not one little spark what so ever.
So im thinking it will not start maybe's because of a anti theft system,
if it has one
so further investigation at the steering wheel i came across this,
i think its the immobilizer





 
#90 ·
puck puck a duck

SLO any ideas

I know 5 of the wires 2 for the obd2 diagnostics plug
2 black/green ground
then ive got one blue/gray thats on the c100 also but cant find it in the fsm
and the last one white/black
I
know i have to take the key part out of the steering column hope that fits the yj
 
#92 ·
im not sure i hop i could use the key in the yj im not sure

still dont know what the white/black wire is for and the blue/ gray wire its there on the c100 but its not in the fsm
 
#93 ·
Yep, that's definitely the immobilizer, or SKIM (Sentry Key Immobilizer Module).

The easiest thing to do (at least here in the states) is to find a different ECM from a vehicle that did not have the security system installed.

If you are set on using the parts you have, you'll have to install that module in your YJ column, like you said.

The two wires that are twisted together are the CCD Bus wires. Should be wt/bk (-) and vt/br (+). These get spliced into C28 and C30 on your ECM, and also positions 11 and 3 on your data link connector. Any wire you have to splice on to extend these wires should also be twisted together, ~1/2 twist per cm.
The db/gy is batt power. Position E10 on C100.
The single wt/bk is switched power (hot in "run" and "start").
The two bk/lg are ground.
 
#94 ·
slo
you are my night in shining armer:D
i think it will be cheaper for me to use what i have. im a lucky bugger i have kept all the wires from under the dash shouldn't be to hard i hope :(

so i m going to just wire up the wires you mentioned and see what that dose tomorrow.

( MODS ) this topic needs to be a sticky there's so much info for any one with the same problems OBD2
 
#96 ·
Slo you are doing a awesome job. I have followed everything you have posted. You have gone way above and beyond helping him. I will definitely add this to my reference list. Great job.
 
#97 ·
Its alive :2thumbsup: :cheers2: :2thumbsup:

i took the immelizer out of the cherokee and wired it up to the yj and the jeep burst into life.:2thumbsup:
the strange this is it didnt need the key or anything els, which made me happy as larrry.
but i should mention that i had to buy pass the starter relay i hooked up a wire direct from the starter motor and the wired that to the G5 green wire start relay crank.
yellow D5 that is connected to the blue/white wire
Red D4 connected to the black/pink wire
Red E4 connected to the red/black wire as SLO had suggested.

and the best was to come the wires of the skim key came disconnected and the jeep still would start so i thought i would try disconnect all the wires on the skim connector and the jeep still jumped into life.

Slo ken thank you very very very very much for being patient with me and helping out like you have done, if it was not for you i dont know what i would of done
:bowdown::bowdown::thankyou::thankyou:

So list of things to do:

connect up the exhaust
used tank out of a wrangler 98 and pump waiting on those parts out the US.
Drive shaft front needs to be longer with a slip shaft and balanced
Drive shaft back needs to be shortened, i will be using the dubble cv joint with a slip shaft if thats what you call it
then theres the gauges fuel and water temp, oil pressure.
then if im right all done.

when im done i will keep you all updated

PS if any one has some tips about the oil pressure and fule gauge be my guest post them up hier.
 
#124 ·
Its alive :2thumbsup: :cheers2: :2thumbsup:

i took the immelizer out of the cherokee and wired it up to the yj and the jeep burst into life.:2thumbsup:
the strange this is it didnt need the key or anything els, which made me happy as larrry.
but i should mention that i had to buy pass the starter relay i hooked up a wire direct from the starter motor and the wired that to the G5 green wire start relay crank.
yellow D5 that is connected to the blue/white wire
Red D4 connected to the black/pink wire
Red E4 connected to the red/black wire as SLO had suggested.

and the best was to come the wires of the skim key came disconnected and the jeep still would start so i thought i would try disconnect all the wires on the skim connector and the jeep still jumped into life.
When you said here that the engine jumped to life, how was it getting fuel? was there a temporary fuel pump hooked up somewhere? Or were you pouring fuel in the throttle body? I'm wondering if there is an issue with the fuel injectors?

ok i couldnt wait lol,
thanks for the info SLO
so i went a head with wiring the orange wire op to the green white wire what i have done, i moved the orange wire pin A6 to B4,
the reason why is because pin A6 is not used at all on my set up.
When i turnded the key to prime the fuel pump it kicked in just like it did on the cherokee :D:D
The way you wired it, I think you bypassed the computer. When you turned the key and the fuel pump primed, did it stay on as long as you had the key turned, or did it go for a couple seconds then shut off? It should shut off after a couple seconds if the engine is not running.

Any way so i turned the key and fingers crossed hoping it would start, with no successes at all.
the only way it will start is if i poor fuel direct into the throttle body.
So, you know it's getting spark. If you keep a steady stream of fuel pouring into the throttle body, will it keep running?

Have you checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail? There should be a Schrader valve on the rail with the injectors where you can check pressure. The '96-'99 engines need around 50psi (340 kPa).

Also, have you checked for power to the injectors? There are two contacts for each injector. One should be constant 12V when the key is on. These are all spliced together, and to the coil(+). The other is a switched ground that is controlled by the ECU.

I assume that the injectors function properly, as you said the engine ran in the XJ before you pulled it.

Also not to for get ive got the green wire from the YJ directly connected to the starter motor that's the only way the motor will turn over.

using the other wires on the xj harness don't do anything if i connect them to the green wire
The starter circuit is completely separate from the rest of the electrical system. If it's working for now, there is no need to mess with it.
 
#100 ·
Well, that was easy!! :cheers2:

One note: I hear that if the immobilizer is disconnected, the computer will still allow the the engine to start, but will shut it down after a few seconds. It sounds like you are not having that problem, but something to watch out for...

Are you going to hook up the diagnostic connector for the OBDII? This would be very helpful for troubleshooting any future problems with your engine...
 
#102 ·
well that's something i will have to look into if that dose happen.
I must say the engine did start no problems, it did run but not for long because i dont have the fuel tank and pump connected up as of yet, i need the fuel pump sender unit still,
That all has to be wired up when it gets hier.
Also it ran well with only a small amount of petrol, i switched the motor off my self because the exhaust isn't connected,it ran only for a about 2 or 3 seconds.
But started right up again.

:thumbsup:
 
#107 ·
Slo

Yes I got that, so I need the original temp sender unit then.
Ad what size waste drill bit u used?
Do you happen to have any photos on how you went around it.
 
#110 ·
update

ive got the tj tank on the way, thats coming from Belgium
the fule pump is on its way from the US, and then i had to order a new down pipe from wrangler TJ and that i had to order in the UK.
So im waiting on all the parts to come then i can start putting everything back together.:2thumbsup::2thumbsup:
 
#111 ·
Hi all so the pump arived this week and in place.:)

The thing is now i have the all the wires running to the front of the jeep on the drives side, hope i can splice the wires that are needed into the existing yj wiring.
if im not mistaken blue/green is the sensor
green white is for the fule pump power
brown/yellow is ground
and then i have one black wire that was not long enough to run threw to the front with the rest of the wires and that is ground to for the pump i think.



Then i have this connector from the yj and you can see the 3 wires brown yellow ,and then theres the oranges one, I now know the orange isnt connected to anything so im thinking this is then the power for a fule pump for the yj 2.5l motor
so thats B4 on the yj connector which is not on my engine bay connector but i do have it on the bulkhead connector,
the only orange wire that i have on the engine bay connector is A6 ignition 4.2l only.



Should i take the A6 wire out of the connector and move it to the B4 position, so i can connect that up for the power on the fule pump

Should i splice the blue/green to the brown wire in the first foto for the gauge sensor on the yj

Should i connect the green/white wire to the orange wire in the first foto fule pump power.





 
#112 ·
Hi all so the pump arived this week and in place.:)

The thing is now i have the all the wires running to the front of the jeep on the drives side, hope i can splice the wires that are needed into the existing yj wiring.
if im not mistaken blue/green is the sensor
green white is for the fule pump power
brown/yellow is ground
and then i have one black wire that was not long enough to run threw to the front with the rest of the wires and that is ground to for the pump i think.

Correct. In the stock XJ configuration, the blue/green goes to pin C26 on the ECU (fuel level sensor signal) , and the brown/yellow goes to pin A4 (sensor ground). The fuel gauge in the XJ is controlled by the ECU, not directly from the sensor. I believe you should be able to wire these directly to your YJ fuel gauge. The YJ fuel gauge is looking for 0 ohm empty and 90 ohm full. You might want to check your new sending unit to verify the resistance range.

Then i have this connector from the yj and you can see the 3 wires brown yellow ,and then theres the oranges one, I now know the orange isnt connected to anything so im thinking this is then the power for a fule pump for the yj 2.5l motor
so thats B4 on the yj connector which is not on my engine bay connector but i do have it on the bulkhead connector,
the only orange wire that i have on the engine bay connector is A6 ignition 4.2l only.

The green/white from the fuel pump should go to the green/white that comes from the PDC (cav D2 on C100). The black from the fuel pump should go to chassis ground.

Should i take the A6 wire out of the connector and move it to the B4 position, so i can connect that up for the power on the fule pump
No

Should i splice the blue/green to the brown wire in the first foto for the gauge sensor on the yj
I'm not sure where that wire is coming from. you want to splice into position 4 of the gauge harness connector.


Should i connect the green/white wire to the orange wire in the first foto fule pump power.
No





[/QUOTE]
 
#113 ·
ok i couldnt wait lol,
thanks for the info SLO
so i went a head with wiring the orange wire op to the green white wire what i have done, i moved the orange wire pin A6 to B4,
the reason why is because pin A6 is not used at all on my set up.
When i turnded the key to prime the fuel pump it kicked in just like it did on the cherokee :D:D

Also i wired up the wires blue/green up to the brown wire but the gauge on the yj went to full tank and its not full so thats got me stomped.

So if im right in uderstanding that i should wire the brown/yellow to ground.

is this diagram from the yj or xj


im going to start the jeep after ive had somthing to eat
 
#114 ·
the diagram is from the YJ.

It sounds like things are moving in the right direction, so that's encouraging!

Also i wired up the wires blue/green up to the brown wire but the gauge on the yj went to full tank and its not full so thats got me stomped.

So if im right in uderstanding that i should wire the brown/yellow to ground.
Yes, you need to connect the brn/ylw to ground. Until you do, the gauge is seeing infinite resistance, and will be pegged to Full. Did you verify that your new sending unit gives ~0 ohm when empty and ~90 ohm when full? This is measured between the blu/grn and brn/ylw wires.

These might help understand what is going on between the gauge and the sending unit..

 
#115 ·
ok thanks now i get you ;)

with being inpatient i didn't measured between the blu/grn and brn/ylw wires. :rolleyes:

I just tried to start the jeep with no success,then i got a strong smell of fresh gas, so i looked under the jeep to investigated and found a petrol fuel line is leaking at this connection is it common to leak at this area.

 
#120 ·
It looks like there may be some corrosion on the steel nipple coming from the fuel pump assembly. The area where the o-ring seats needs to be perfectly smooth, or it could leak.

I'm not sure about the lights... Are they the red brake lights, or the white back-up lights? If it's the brake lights, there should be a switch near the top of the brake pedal assembly that feeds those lights. It's a NC (normally closed) switch, that is pushed open by a tang on the pedal arm when the pedal is in the "up" (NOT pushing on the brake) position. The circuit is designed so that if the switch fails, the lights stay on.
 
#116 ·
Oh i forgot to mention that now when i go to turn my key in the contact my back lights come on and they stay on, when i take the key out of the ignition they stay on and the only way to get them to turn of is by disconnect the battery.
so i dont know whats going on there now
 
#119 ·
checked and they both seam to be in place,
i checked the other end to see if they were the same and yes they are so im stomped again.

what about the back lights why the hell are they coming on ive only got the left side of the bulkhead connector connected.
 
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