Decided to edit this first post for any newcomers that care/don't want to read pages of BS :laugh:
Here's the list of everything I have done prior to this build:
-Tuffy full security subwoofer console
-Passenger grab handle made from exercise thingy
-Rugged Ridge front floor mats
-4wdhardware windshield decal
-New Pioneer speakers
-Removed milk jugs and side steps
I will hyperlink everything that is installed. I will try to do more "write-up" type posts with future installs. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
Well I guess I found the problem. Since I disconnected the amp from the battery, it has started right up every time. Now that begs the question, why? Why is the amp killing the jeep? It's a very small amp...
The reason I ask is I was looking at Barnes 2" drop TT, and I didn't know if it was somehow attached to the tub and if I'd then have 1.25" of space between the case and the skid. But that doesn't really make sense...
You'll be fine with the early model skid until you get into the fun stuff. I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference at URE. The rear axle should be a bigger priority for you.
1/4 inch smaller ring gear than a Dana 44
Slightly smaller shafts and plenty of available lockers
And many have taken a beating under xjs
For a Dana 35 price
1/4 inch smaller ring gear than a Dana 44
Slightly smaller shafts and plenty of available lockers
And many have taken a beating under xjs
For a Dana 35 price
Also, how are the 3.73's and 33's? I'm curious as to how you like them since you live in the Appalachians and I live in the lower point of it so you have more mountains. 3.07's absolutely suck in the mountains but I really like them on the interstate. I'm pushing close to 17mpg at 75mph and I don't really want to give that up by going to 4.10s.
Also, how are the 3.73's and 33's? I'm curious as to how you like them since you live in the Appalachians and I live in the lower point of it so you have more mountains. 3.07's absolutely suck in the mountains but I really like them on the interstate. I'm pushing close to 17mpg at 75mph and I don't really want to give that up by going to 4.10s.
Idk what kind of mpg I'm getting, but its hardly any worse than when it was stock. There's a very steep part coming up the mountain that I only go about 40 without having to floor it, but I couldn't do it that much better stock. I don't know if ill even bother going to 4.10.
According to the Grimm calculator, you should be turning around 2,500rpm at 65mph. With 4.10's that would be 2,800rpm. It really kills mpg at 70mph when it's turning 3,000rpm.
I think I'd only go 4.10 when I go to 35's. Much more respectable highway RPM.
According to the Grimm calculator, you should be turning around 2,500rpm at 65mph. With 4.10's that would be 2,800rpm. It really kills mpg at 70mph when it's turning 3,000rpm.
I think I'd only go 4.10 when I go to 35's. Much more respectable highway RPM.
Yea same here. I really want to keep my build simple, so I have a hard time deciding between 285's or 35's. Probably will go to 35's though. Mine will most likely wind up looking similar to this. :drool:
With the 3 spd auto I would skip on the regear and put that money towards a 4:1 transfer case. Similar cost, similar low range gearing, and better highway mileage.
With the 3 spd auto I would skip on the regear and put that money towards a 4:1 transfer case. Similar cost, similar low range gearing, and better highway mileage.
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