So, Finally decided to make a build thread for my XJ.
Anyways, I've owned three Jeeps (two ZJs) since I was 18. The first was a 94 5.2 ZJ in absolutely perfect shape with 93k miles, garage kept, undercoated, absolutely amazing. It stayed stock, and 3 months to the day was totaled by a drunk driver and I began my search for another Jeep.
Two weeks later I was in my 96 ZJ, 114k miles, had her for about a year and a half. This one I actually modded. Until the transmission gave out and I didn't have the money to fix it, at which point it was scrapped.
When I got it:
Before it got scrapped:
Which brings me to the XJ:
I drove around in my dad's cavalier while trying to find a new Jeep:
Skip the t-case drop and get a SYE. The problem with the drop is that it isn't - it's more of a tilt. What you drop on the back, you raise at the front. A 6½" lift is already pushing it for our short front drivelines.
Like I said, its temporary until time and weather (and wallet) will let me properly install a SYE.
Yeah I meant a bigger tie rod, most likely will order iro's. Sorry operating on very little sleep. Anyways all my stuff should be here Tuesday.
Still looking into which control arm drops I will get, though I'll look into those. I do plan on shackle relocation once money allows. Basically the tc drop and drop shackles will only be on until I get my tax return and have time to properly install the last three things.
I run Rocky Road Outfitters Drop Brackets. They have a better bracket support system than the other 2 companies suggested. A bit more expensive, but worth it if you are not going with Long arms.
Also please consider the options available for shackle relocation brackets for the rear. As suggested, your ride and certainly your flex will be like poo if you do not. NO shock can fix that issue.
If you have not been drenching ALL fasteners with PB blaster type juice - shocks (expect to snap off the upper rear shock bolts and work that issue) upper shackle bolts, front leaf spring bolts, control arm fasteners, hitch (if equipped) hardware etc. you will have a great deal of effort ahead of you considering the 13 years of winter your XJ has seen. Have extra fasteners, torches, breaker bars, angle grinders, sawall etc. ready to go.
You do not need a bigger sway bar, you need longer swaybar end links.
IRO sells a very good adjustable double shear trackbar set up and a tough tie rod replacement as well.
See what it does. You may wind up having to leave out your front DS until you can SYE. The IRO H&T works great although at your lift height you'll probably have to get a custom rear driveshaft made up if a ZJ front shaft isn't long enough.
The drop shackles are 50% of the cost of the relocation kit. Sounds like throwing money away to me unless you buy some cheapo shackles. I've got a set of Rough Country 1" / 2" I may be ready to part with if you haven't ordered yours yet. I ran them for maybe a year and a half before I built my bastard pack.
The fittings are the same. It it's long enough, you're good. For a 2"-3" XJ lift, a stock YJ line is the perfect length at 3-1/8" longer than the stock XJ line.
Anyways, got the rear passenger side almost all done, need to take the front leaf bolt out and cut the rear bolt out. It's in the metal circle inside the bushing and won't come out any further, so I'm just gonna cut it and pull it. Unless anyone has a better idea.
This is what I initially thought also, but for drive-line angles it's the wrong thought. The installation of a SYE will significantly shorten the TC, allowing the drive shaft to have less of an angle and reducing vibes. I'm not sure of your financial situation, but if you can afford a SYE you'll most likely never have to worry about vibes again. A front Drive shaft can usually be used tocover the extended distace, but not always.
Where's the pictures, sounds like you have a nice rig. We want to see it!
Yes, you will need an SYE regardless if you use the NP231 or 242. I am able to run a front shaft from an automatic XJ in the rear with my 242 and HnT SYE.
Wasn't sure how much of a difference it was in length, obviously not much. Anyways, after I finished up the rear I am going to check the pinion angles (with tc drop and 4" shims in place) if they still are too extreme I am going to pull the rear driveshaft for the time being.
I'm running the same leaf springs and I like them. It took some time for them to finally break in and loosen up, the only thing I don't like is the jeep leans over to the passenger side but that even happened when I ran the OME springs before.
So... your profile states that you are running 33s. are you sticking with those tires or moving up to something larger. Im trying to wrap my head around why you have such a retared amount of lift or only 33s.
if you are getting larger tires are you up grading axels as well? Then you may want to figure out what axle then get the sye so yo know what drive shaft ujoint size you are going to need...Just my thoughts.
Gonna keep 33s for now. Even if I do change axles around the rear is an 8.25 so I don't see much reason to change it. 35s is the biggest I'd ever run. That wouldnt be for awhile though, at least until its no longer a dd. Definitely want to swap at least an HP30 into the front though.
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