Disclaimer: I hesitate to post Jeep list prices. Some dealers may charge less, many charge more. My dealer likes to charge 15% over list unless I complain.
Engine/Trans Skid Plate......pn 5105236AB....Mopar List Price $160.00
Fuel Tank Skid Plate, left....pn 5105235AA.............................43.35
Fuel Tank Skid Plate, right..pn 5105234AA............................. 43.35
Some of you may want or need these:
5116330AB.."transmission shield" $2.45!!!
5116057AB...."accessory drive shield" $7.35!!!!
The hardest part to this ordeal was finding the fasteners to install in the frame work and channels to enable me to bolt up the Skid Plates. The Hex Rivnuts have been taken care of. I also have listings for a couple that you can get from Jeep and my own supply that I am also selling.
I thought the T-Nuts (also called Tee Nuts and Weld Nuts) would be easy since I found mine at my local ACE Hardware store in my little town of 4000. I bought the last 3 that they had last Saturday and asked them to order a “supply” of them but they haven’t been able to give me any answer on availability yet. I’ve checked at the local Home Depot and Menards in the next big town over and they don’t carry anything in the right size and configuration. Meanwhile I have done some internet shopping and found just the right pieces but they are custom made and would take 3-4 weeks to get them with a price to match. I also found the same thing without the holes drilled for the pop rivets. I’m ordering them on Monday, should have them in about a week and I’ll drill them and make them available.
The M10 T-Nuts are hard to find. If some of you want to look around on your own they also make these with a 3/8-16 tread and you’ll need 4 – 3/8”x1” bolts to go with them.
You will need 4 of the T-Nuts for the ’07 MK’s, they are used in the center hole and three rear holes on the front Skid Plate and are attached with 1/8” pop rivets. The ‘08’s may be able to use these in the 3 round holes in their front mounting locations. I used 1/8" steel rivet/steel mandrel pop rivets on mine.
FYI: a 1/8" steel rivet/steel mandrel has a shear strength of 450 in/lbs and tensile strength of 350 in/lbs; a 5/32 has 525 and 500. An 1/8" aluminum rivet with steel mandrel has 210 and 325 while the 5/32 has 340 and 490.
You'll also need:
3 - M10 x 1.5 x 50mm Hex bolts, class 9.6 or better (equivalent to an SAE grade 5)
10 - M10 x 1.5 x 25mm (same as above)
13 - heavy flat washers (I am using 3/8")
and some split ring lock washers, shake proof washers or, what I like, the blue label, medium strength threadlocker made by Loctite.
Get your Jeep up in the air so that you can work on it using ramps, jack stands or, if you’re lucky enough, a hoist. Don’t forget to block the tires to prevent it rolling.
Compass owners only
- you’ll need to remove the front close out by using a T20 Torq bit on the 7 screws and 2 small screw drivers on the 4 plugs on the ends. Pry out the center plug by inserting the small screw drivers in the indentations on the sides of the body of the plug and gently wiggling out the center until you can slip a trim stick or pair of needle nose pliers between the body of the plug and the insert and finish prying it out. Remove the rest of the plug.
All MK’s – the bolts that hold the either the rest of the close out or the bolts that hold the plastic belly pan on all take a 10mm socket. Remove as necessary.
Install the T-Nuts – These are pretty easy to install. Insert the T-nut with the barrel up in the holes, center them and drill with a nice sharp 1/8” drill bit. This is pretty tough material and I recommend a new premium grade drill bit. Mark an alignment location and as you drill, insert (but don’t pull) a pop rivet to hold it in place. Drill the second hole and insert a pop rivet there too, and then drill the last hole. Clean off any burrs on the inside of the channels, I used a flat blade screw driver bent to fit in the main hole to clean the burrs. On the center hole I slid the T-Nut up inside, aligned the holes and popped it into place. On the 3 rear holes I attached them from the bottom side.
The 1st shot is just the T-Nuts, the 2nd is installed inside the center channel, the 3rd and 4th are installed on the bottom of the rear cross member. I didn't see the need to try and snake them inside the rear channel.
These are the tools that you’ll need. The shorter the 3/4" wrench, the better.
This is the pieces that make up the Assembly tool
This is it assembled. Where it says “lube” I used some wheel bearing grease but tried some air tool lub and found that almost anything will do. This is considered a “low load bearing” surface.
Here's how to use it. http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...cargo-net.html