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Skid Plates

36K views 82 replies 15 participants last post by  Gramps 
#1 · (Edited)
here are the pics of the 'skid plates' used on the Patriots with the "Off Road Pkg" (AWL) and FDII.

the first is the Engine/Trans skid plate and the second are the Fuel Tank skid plates (takes 2, a left and right side)

part numbers and prices are in a post following this. i got mine in and hopefully will have them on my Compass in about 10 days.

ENJOY!!!
 

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#4 ·
YES!

sorry, i should have posted this info with the pics, but i was so happy i got the pics 'resized' to upload, i forgot. here ya go:

the 'engine/trans' skid plate is pn 5105236AB and has a "List Price" of $160.00

the 'left fuel tank' skid plate is pn 5105235AA with a "List Price" of $43.35

the 'right fuel tank' skid plate is pn 5105234AA, same price as the left.

does this help?:D
 
#3 ·
Yes, these are the factory plates.

The front one is 5105236AB (superseded from AA) which Mopar Specifies as the "Engine/Trans Skid Plate" for MK's from 2007-2009.

The gas tank 'skid plates' are 5105234AA (right) and 5105235AA (left).

Credit goes to Jeepster for finding the correct part number for the Front Skid Plate. :thumbsup: My parts people came up with the right numbers for the Gas Tank Skid Plates but could only come up with the Front Belly Pan number of 5116372AB which is plastic.
 
#5 ·
Yes, these are the factory plates.

The front one is 5105236AB (superseded from AA) which Mopar Specifies as the "Engine/Trans Skid Plate" for MK's from 2007-2009.

The gas tank 'skid plates' are 5105234AA (right) and 5105235AA (left).

Credit goes to Jeepster for finding the correct part number for the Front Skid Plate. :thumbsup: My parts people came up with the right numbers for the Gas Tank Skid Plates but could only come up with the Front Belly Pan number of 5116372AB which is plastic.
ha ha ha ha......up at the same time, huh? well, i would like to take all the credit, but i can't. i did get the numbers for the fuel tank, but my friend "Rookie" from another forum put me on to the engine/trans skid plate number. he just wasn't sure it was correct. i only made the phone call to Mopar Specifying to confirm the number, since it was NO WHERE to be found in the EPC. thanks to "Rookie", where ever you are!!!! :thumbsup:
 
#6 ·
I picked up mine today :D. I paid about the price that Jeepster gave from Frank Boucher in Janesville. I'm trying to negotiate a bit of a discount with them, they do it for local clubs so I'll see if they can swing something for me because of JF. Hey, it never hurts to TRY! Very happy to get them :D

I'm still waiting for some warm weather to put them on but first I'll have to crawl underneath to figure out what nuts/bolts or whatever I need.

They measure out to be 10ga steel or .1345"
 
#7 ·
Good to here Gramps, I'll post back or PM ya' whith a price when mine come in. Looks like mid week due to the parts dept. waiting on one of the tank skids. Had to come from Michigan is the word. I was wondering about the fasteners also! Oh, and how about the side pieces that entend up into the wheelwell?
hvac59
 
#8 ·
Mine all came out of the Warren PDC in Warren, MI, there also is the National PDC in Centerline, MI.

The side pieces are called closeouts and you can see them in the first pic below. They are also plastic (we had one of those come in, too, that I didn't take) and look to be nothing more than a "splash shield".

The 3 bolts on the front of the "Skidstrip" will need to be 1.2" longer that the bolts called out on the non FD II bolts. Since we're talking metric that's 30mm. The 3 bolts in the rear should stay the same because were only looking at the thickness of the material which is less than 5mm.

Best guess on what's needed for the Skidstrip:
To be determined. Don't get these yet!
3 - M6x1x55 (25+30) for the front
3 - M6x1x20 (maybe 30?) for the rear
1 - M6x1x20 or 25 for the left center (I think that is just an open threaded whole).

What we need to use for the gas Tank Plates I'll just have to look at and figure it from there.
 

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#10 ·
Good question! The front locating holes will be the same but right now I'm not quite sure what the center and rear holes line up with. I'll do some measuring and try and get some more info while I'm underneath mine. If someone with the manual trans will could get some pics we could compare notes.
 
#12 ·
I don't think that you'll need to do that.

I don't think that we're going to run into any more problems with the manual trans than the CVT. The Skid Plates will be attaching somewhere in the red ovals indicated in the pics (the ones marked are just a guess). The Patriots will be somewhat easier because of how the front fascia and the Skid Plate actually meet where they attach. The Compass, because the Fascia extends further out and then has a splash shield (front close out), is going to be a bit different. Remembering back to when I did the engine oil cooler and having to remove the front splash shield is where I remember seeing the 3 large bolts to attach the skid plate. It may be that we end up leaving off the splash shield or it may sit under the Skid Plate nicely. These pieces are also the reason that the Compass doesn't have the same approach angle as the Patriot.

How to get a nut on the top side of the holes to stay put while we tighten the bolts from the bottom is going to be another trick that has to be worked out. Just maybe with Jeepster being able to do his in the shop he might find some special parts that should be used and shoot us some part numbers. The first time is always the hardest and no these do NOT come with instructions!

Also in these pictures you can see the "side Close Outs" mentioned in a previous post are already there.

Just a note on the front Tow hooks, we'll probably do another thread on those later. The Compass and Patriot Font Bumper Reinforcement without Tow Eye Brackets are different but, they are the same with Tow Eye Brackets, 5303761AB. So it appears early on they did consider putting tow hooks on the Compass, too! Tow Hook Right - 5115268AB; left - 5115269AB.
 

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#13 ·
It was above 32 degrees today so I got the ramps out, held the front plate in place :barbell: and and found out what lines up with what. This isn't quite a simple bolt in because there are no threaded holes, just open holes, where these will attach. The 3 in the rear and the middle hole are about a 9/16" opening and the 3 fronts are a hex shape that may have some kind of pressed in nut at the factory. Also there is absolutely NO WAY that you will be able to slip a nut up on top and be able to hold it with a wrench :brickwall. :idea: For the 4 holes in the rear I'll try and find some of those "spring clip" type nuts that slip on to the sheet metal of an appropriate size. The three in front will more than likely have to be modified to use the same thing.

The pic with the 2 hex holes has one more hole under the closeout in the direction of the arrow. The closeout will need to be either removed or cut depending on if you want it to look factory. I expect that maybe the non FD II Patriot may have the same problems with the hex holes, you'll need to check.

The gas tank skid plates aren't going to be any more fun than the front. But all of this is doable! :thumbsup:

:help::help::help:
NEED A FAVOR!! Anybody with an FD II. I need you to put a wrench on the bolt heads and tell me what size that you used. That way I can determine the shank size of the bolts and keep them close to what the factory used. :cheers2:
 

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#14 ·
excuse me for being "Mr Obvious", but wouldn't you just REMOVE the plastic shield and bolt the 'skid plate' to the same mounting points, using the same hardware?:confused::confused::confused: (pls keep in mind i've not been under my Compass as of yet.....ok?)

if not, i'll check today and see if i can come up with any 'hardware' part numbers. thanks for checking that out. it will be difficult, since the Engine/Trans skid plate isn't IN the EPC so i would doubt that the hardware is either. but i know that the crossmembers are the same on a FDI and FDII, so there must be some sort of well nuts or something to insert into the holes. the "TJ's" use the same thing on their side steps where they mount to the frame.

if all else fails, i'll call "Mother Mopar" again.........:rolleyes:

P.S. do you have any idea what the diameter is of the holes you have pictured
 
#15 ·
excuse me for being "Mr Obvious", but wouldn't you just REMOVE the plastic shield and bolt the 'skid plate' to the same mounting points, using the same hardware?:confused::confused::confused: (pls keep in mind i've not been under my Compass as of yet.....ok?)
Nope, those holes don't line up and the mounts on the Skid plates are the last picture in post 12 so it's not like you can just redrill the skid plate either.
if not, i'll check today and see if i can come up with any 'hardware' part numbers. thanks for checking that out. it will be difficult, since the Engine/Trans skid plate isn't IN the EPC so i would doubt that the hardware is either. but i know that the crossmembers are the same on a FDI and FDII, so there must be some sort of well nuts or something to insert into the holes. the "TJ's" use the same thing on their side steps where they mount to the frame.

if all else fails, i'll call "Mother Mopar" again.........:rolleyes:

P.S. do you have any idea what the diameter is of the holes you have pictured
I believe the round holes are about 9/16", I'll recheck tonight and I didn't measure the hex holes.

I did see a "Rivet" listed in seval places for the Fascia, etc. What does a 6104885AA Rivet look like?

Also try and check out the fasteners for the Fuel tank skid plates, if you can. I'm hoping that we don't have to drop the drive shaft and fuel tanks to do these.
 
#18 ·
Hardware Update:

i found a listing for 'riv-nuts' in the engine splash shield area. ordered some and i should have them tomorrow. i'll see what they are, what size and so on and let ya know.

and WELCOME to 'rookie1' too! glad to see you here, where the 'adults' play! :D
 
#19 ·
Hardware Update #2.......

got the 'riv-nuts' in today. they're not anywhere near .5". with my trusty mini-tape measure i keep in my desk at work, they measured at about 3/8" in diameter. they're metal, hex-shaped with about a 6mm threaded hole. can't see them working in a hole any larger than 3/8", so now i'm back to 'square one'.

you know what that means.......i'm calling "Mother Mopar" tomorrow:(
 
#22 ·
This is what I used to get the wrong sizes back in post #8. That's why I've asked for someone with an FD II to just check the size of the bolt head so that I can determine shank diameter.

i found following link on other forum which has skid pics. The front skid looks just like jeepster and gramps order. but ther other/rear skid is only one piece on this link. Any comments?

(sorry i realize that i cant insert link or pics from/to other forum site )
I sent you a pm on this.

The pic that I posted with the gas tank skid plate installed are from the test drive that I did back in April last year. I just don't understand a "one piece".:confused:
 
#24 ·
:hahaha: I thought that it looked familiar after you gave me the link. That's just the drivers side shown. The fuel tank is a saddle looking thing that goes over the drive shaft so there are left and right skid plates for it. At least I finally smiled today, THANKS!! :thumbsup:

You can just see the lower portions of the left and right halves of the fuel tank below.
 

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#25 ·
__Well,
Here are some pic's of the front skid installed. I just used some old fashioned ingenuity for the fasteners.( cause I'm to impatient to order the RIVNUTS from McMaster-Carr.)

Flatten out three speednuts to convert them into flagnuts.

Unwind the spring all the way except for the last to coils. Clean the edges with a file on the long side of the nut.

Make a visual referance to where the holes in the plate will align with the holes in the chassis. Go ahead and mark them on the chassis with a grease pencil or something.

With the Jeep up on ramps, take your time and fish the nuts in thru the nearby large holes into position at the indicated holes. Be sure that they will lay there "flat" on there own with the threads showing. Looks harder than it is. Notice the trough that the nut is sitting in. This is important as not to let the nut rotate when it is being torqued.(and just as imprtant when taking it apart:) )

Close up of the homemade flagnut as is protrudes thru the opening of the lower unibody rail. This prevents it from rotating also.

Another view from a further distance. Note the special tool with the maroon shirt covering it. You will need this to hold the skid up while starting all the bolts.................It is a size 40 waist.

Everything in place with the bolts just hand tight. Notice the center skid bolt, it will require a regular speednut for the lower engine mount. The mount runs front to back and has a opening to fit the nut. Make sure the nut fits firm over the sheetmetal plate, squeeze it in the vise a little if you have to.

Check out the clearances up front before torquing. Note how the plate wraps on the outside of the valance/bumper cover. It will not fit under.......I tried!
Hope this is a help to you all. I post back with the side spray shield install. I ran out of time today, plus they have to be cut from the original shield.
hvac59

A couple of last notes:

I got everything from Home Depot.
The bolts are all grade five 3/8 x 16
3 2" and 4 1" with lock and oversize washers(not fenderwashers)
spring nuts are from the electrical dept.
speed nuts are from hardware(with the rest of the fasteners)
use regular never-sieze on the bolts

http://www.mcmaster.com/

starting on page 3214 you may see all the rivet nuts you would ever need, and yes they will be needed for the rear skids(no improvising back there!)

Rivet Nuts
Provides a thicker flange profile than knurled rivet nuts to resist push-through.

Open-End Knurled Rivet Nuts
Knurls provide increased resistance to spin and pullout. Nut is open at bottom, allowing the use of a longer screw or bolt.

Open-End Knurled Rivet Nuts with Seal
Includes a PVC foam seal bonded under the flange.

Closed-End Knurled Rivet Nuts
Thread area is enclosed, preventing leakage past the threads from either side of your application.

Rubber-Insulated Rivet Nuts
Also known as well nuts and well-nut threaded inserts. Great for fastening metal to plastic, damping vibration, and sealing out moisture. Can be installed with a screwdriver.

Slotted-Body Rivet Nuts
A larger backside flange increases strength, making these ideal for use in plastic and thin materials. Can accommodate a wider range of material thicknesses as well as slightly oversized holes.

Screwdriver-Installed Rivet Nuts
Also known as jack nuts. Ideal for thin, soft, and brittle materials.

Nut Inserts
Can be installed into almost any material that is 0.030" or thicker.

Rivet-Type Studs
An ideal alternative to weld-and-clinch studs. When installed, a backside flange resists pullout.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
#26 ·
u all r genious.... :2thumbsup::cheers2::cheers:

hvac i m not start enought to all the technical lingo u posted...but it looks more and more like i may not want to do this by myself, but i'll give it a shot anyway..

i asked the service rep if they would install this when my order comes it ..they could not find the bolts but they said if they dont show on computer it means that they r standard bolts which should be in stock...but who knows :brickwall
 
#27 ·
Nice job hvac59! I'll have another approach to this with my install. I'll be using the M10 Hex Riv-Nuts and some M10 T-Nuts. I haven't looked to much at the rear ones yet, only enough to know that there won't be any short cuts back there. Parts on mine are from ACE hardware and Body Shop Supply.
 
#28 ·
Hang tight rookie1,
Once we get it down pat with the rivet nuts, It'll be a breeze for a permanent install. Although, I spent less than $15 to mount mine and nothing has been cut or drilled. So, when the opportunity comes to drop the plate I should have had time to round up the rivet nuts to make it a permanent install. It is very easy and you won't have anything to loose if you give it a go. Just don't skimp on the fasteners strength, you don't want that plate dropping off on the roadway..................Originally I thought McMaster Carr quanities were like 25 or 50 count, but it looks more like 10 now:).

Gramps,
The rivet nuts are kinda finicky for the hole size they go into, I'm looking into borrowing a stepped bit(unibit) and sizing the rivet nuts off of a nearby step on the bit. At least to a very close size to the openings we have now! Unibits are pricy and would hate to not use it again for who nows how long. Anyway, could you let us now what you come up with for sizes? I'll do the same.
hvac59
 
#30 ·
Gramps,
The rivet nuts are kinda finicky for the hole size they go into, I'm looking into borrowing a stepped bit(unibit) and sizing the rivet nuts off of a nearby step on the bit. At least to a very close size to the openings we have now! Unibits are pricy and would hate to not use it again for who nows how long. Anyway, could you let us now what you come up with for sizes? I'll do the same.
hvac59
Take a look at these Hex Rivnuts in this pdf file from Cardinal Components on page 10, part # 62211011035. These are specifically made for this purpose and I feel it's exactly what Jeep uses in the 3 holes on the front. I've mic'd the holes 3 times to make sure so I'm very comfortable with the fit. I found an article where someone used a different size on a Liberty and said that they had found them at Lowe's. We have a store in Janesville that is actually called Body Shop Supply where I hope to pick some up next Saturday and Jeepster is going to check out Lowe's for us. Worst case is I end up ordering from Cardinal. I have no idea what their minimum order quantities or prices will be so I may have to buy more than I need. If anybody is planning on doing this installation and doesn't want to fool around searching for these, let me know and I could order extras.

These look very easy to install. I'm going to drill a plate that I can put an M10 bolt threw and tighten down, in place, against the plate, remove the bolt and plate and the Hex Riv-Nuts are installed.

We need 3 for the front and at least 1, possibly 2, for each of the rear plates for a total of 5 or 7. I did see one of these on the rear but I need to take my caliper to double check the size. There is also the hole that I can't see that is where the longest leg of the rear skid plates attaches. There is a close out/shield that prevents me from seeing all the way up by the floor pan. I'm hoping to be able to get to that before I go down to the body shop on Saturday.

I thought about using the Pal-Nuts like you did but found these Metric T-Nuts at ACE hardware made by Hillman, part number 44752-44764-L M10-1.5. They are ½" tall and have a 1" dia base and will attach with pop rivets. The chamfer around the neck fits perfectly in the center of the holes for drilling the pop rivet holes from the bottom, slide them in the frame channel and finish with a pop rivet. This makes them a permanent, stand alone fastener. The center hole will be easy, the 3 in the rear may need one of the larger holes in the rear channel modified to be able to slide them all in and pulled in to position with wire/string or other means similar to what you did.

Lots of "honey do's" this time of year so time is at a premium but I hope to have everything rounded up and at least the front done in a couple of weeks.

I'm very interested to see what you run into for the rears!

These are the Metric T-Nuts.
 

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#29 ·
i'm off to Lowes today to check on some fasteners "Gramps" turned me on to. i'll give you all a report later today. but first things first.....still scoopin' up mulch in the drive to put around my trees and shrubs.:(
 
#31 ·
Bad news: Rivnut no longer makes these.

Good news: They are available under the Rivkle name. #2334-110-035. Page 19 of this catalog.

Bad news: 500 minimum order.

I'm still looking for another source as time allows.
 
#32 ·
And more Good News/Bad News:

Bad News: it's trying to snow again.

Good News: I checked out the Fuel Tank Skid plates again and it doesn't really look that bad to do.

Bad News: it takes 3 more of these same size Rivnuts for each side for a total of 9 needed.

Good News:
The least that I can buy is 50@ 130.50 ($2.61 ea) or I can front this deal and sell bags of 10 for $13.00 + shipping. Any takers? Let me know. Yes, you can also tell the people at JP, they can find me on their website, too, same name.

We are not supposed to have Group Buys or sell stuff in the Tech Forums so this is checking on INTREST ONLY!
 
#33 ·
hey "Gramps", don't be spending the $130 just yet. i may be on to something and i should know either today or tomorrow if they'll work.

....."Film at 11":D

AND on a related note, i've got PN's and prices for the plastic shields that go on the sides of the Engine/Trans Skid Plate to keep 'stuff' from splashing up on the drive belts and trans. i'm confirming them today as well and will post that info along with pics tonight when i get home, but after dinner of course! first things first......:thumbsup:
 
#34 ·
I'm in no panic to spend too much on fasteners! I'll wait and see what you guys come up with and I still need to check out the body shop place. I saw you and hvac59 talking about those shields on JP.
 
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