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Rugged Ridge Bumpers, Winches, Performance from CCOR!JK Front Axle TrussARTEC JK UNDER ARMOR - 4 door Bellypan Kits

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Unread 03-12-2008, 09:06 AM   #16
rookie1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepster55 View Post
ha ha ha ha......up at the same time, huh? well, i would like to take all the credit, but i can't. i did get the numbers for the fuel tank, but my friend "Rookie" from another forum put me on to the engine/trans skid plate number. he just wasn't sure it was correct. i only made the phone call to Mopar Specifying to confirm the number, since it was NO WHERE to be found in the EPC. thanks to "Rookie", where ever you are!!!!
Thanks jeepster..skids looks great.. thanks for conforming the parts no.s and all ur help! I finally registered here on jeepforum.com, but could not get the same id, so i got the rookie1.

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Unread 03-12-2008, 05:03 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepster55 View Post
P.S. do you have any idea what the diameter is of the holes you have pictured

Update: the center and 3 rear round holes are .530", the front hex holes are .510" (13mm).

and rookie1.
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Unread 03-12-2008, 05:43 PM   #18
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Hardware Update:

i found a listing for 'riv-nuts' in the engine splash shield area. ordered some and i should have them tomorrow. i'll see what they are, what size and so on and let ya know.

and WELCOME to 'rookie1' too! glad to see you here, where the 'adults' play!
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Unread 03-13-2008, 06:51 PM   #19
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Hardware Update #2.......

got the 'riv-nuts' in today. they're not anywhere near .5". with my trusty mini-tape measure i keep in my desk at work, they measured at about 3/8" in diameter. they're metal, hex-shaped with about a 6mm threaded hole. can't see them working in a hole any larger than 3/8", so now i'm back to 'square one'.

you know what that means.......i'm calling "Mother Mopar" tomorrow
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Unread 03-13-2008, 08:30 PM   #20
rookie1
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how about the ...

part no. 06105098AA,
SCREW AND WASHER, Hex Head, M6x1x25
SCREW AND WASHER, Hex Head, M6x1x20.

or

part no. 06104725AA,
NUT AND WASHER, M6x1.
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Unread 03-13-2008, 08:57 PM   #21
rookie1
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i found following link on other forum which has skid pics. The front skid looks just like jeepster and gramps order. but ther other/rear skid is only one piece on this link. Any comments?

(sorry i realize that i cant insert link or pics from/to other forum site )

Last edited by rookie1; 03-13-2008 at 09:02 PM.. Reason: bad url
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Unread 03-14-2008, 03:57 AM   #22
Gramps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rookie1 View Post
how about the ...

part no. 06105098AA,
SCREW AND WASHER, Hex Head, M6x1x25
SCREW AND WASHER, Hex Head, M6x1x20.

or

part no. 06104725AA,
NUT AND WASHER, M6x1.
This is what I used to get the wrong sizes back in post #8. That's why I've asked for someone with an FD II to just check the size of the bolt head so that I can determine shank diameter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rookie1 View Post
i found following link on other forum which has skid pics. The front skid looks just like jeepster and gramps order. but ther other/rear skid is only one piece on this link. Any comments?

(sorry i realize that i cant insert link or pics from/to other forum site )
I sent you a pm on this.

The pic that I posted with the gas tank skid plate installed are from the test drive that I did back in April last year. I just don't understand a "one piece".
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Unread 03-14-2008, 10:30 AM   #23
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oops never mind gramps...on the other forum...the link takes u to YOUR post over there to pics of the skid plates...lol
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Unread 03-14-2008, 11:05 AM   #24
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I thought that it looked familiar after you gave me the link. That's just the drivers side shown. The fuel tank is a saddle looking thing that goes over the drive shaft so there are left and right skid plates for it. At least I finally smiled today, THANKS!!

You can just see the lower portions of the left and right halves of the fuel tank below.
ereargastank.jpg  
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Unread 03-15-2008, 06:03 PM   #25
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__Well,
Here are some pic's of the front skid installed. I just used some old fashioned ingenuity for the fasteners.( cause I'm to impatient to order the RIVNUTS from McMaster-Carr.)

Flatten out three speednuts to convert them into flagnuts.

Unwind the spring all the way except for the last to coils. Clean the edges with a file on the long side of the nut.

Make a visual referance to where the holes in the plate will align with the holes in the chassis. Go ahead and mark them on the chassis with a grease pencil or something.

With the Jeep up on ramps, take your time and fish the nuts in thru the nearby large holes into position at the indicated holes. Be sure that they will lay there "flat" on there own with the threads showing. Looks harder than it is. Notice the trough that the nut is sitting in. This is important as not to let the nut rotate when it is being torqued.(and just as imprtant when taking it apart )

Close up of the homemade flagnut as is protrudes thru the opening of the lower unibody rail. This prevents it from rotating also.

Another view from a further distance. Note the special tool with the maroon shirt covering it. You will need this to hold the skid up while starting all the bolts.................It is a size 40 waist.

Everything in place with the bolts just hand tight. Notice the center skid bolt, it will require a regular speednut for the lower engine mount. The mount runs front to back and has a opening to fit the nut. Make sure the nut fits firm over the sheetmetal plate, squeeze it in the vise a little if you have to.

Check out the clearances up front before torquing. Note how the plate wraps on the outside of the valance/bumper cover. It will not fit under.......I tried!
Hope this is a help to you all. I post back with the side spray shield install. I ran out of time today, plus they have to be cut from the original shield.
hvac59

A couple of last notes:

I got everything from Home Depot.
The bolts are all grade five 3/8 x 16
3 2" and 4 1" with lock and oversize washers(not fenderwashers)
spring nuts are from the electrical dept.
speed nuts are from hardware(with the rest of the fasteners)
use regular never-sieze on the bolts


http://www.mcmaster.com/

starting on page 3214 you may see all the rivet nuts you would ever need, and yes they will be needed for the rear skids(no improvising back there!)

Rivet Nuts
Provides a thicker flange profile than knurled rivet nuts to resist push-through.

Open-End Knurled Rivet Nuts
Knurls provide increased resistance to spin and pullout. Nut is open at bottom, allowing the use of a longer screw or bolt.

Open-End Knurled Rivet Nuts with Seal
Includes a PVC foam seal bonded under the flange.

Closed-End Knurled Rivet Nuts
Thread area is enclosed, preventing leakage past the threads from either side of your application.

Rubber-Insulated Rivet Nuts
Also known as well nuts and well-nut threaded inserts. Great for fastening metal to plastic, damping vibration, and sealing out moisture. Can be installed with a screwdriver.

Slotted-Body Rivet Nuts
A larger backside flange increases strength, making these ideal for use in plastic and thin materials. Can accommodate a wider range of material thicknesses as well as slightly oversized holes.

Screwdriver-Installed Rivet Nuts
Also known as jack nuts. Ideal for thin, soft, and brittle materials.

Nut Inserts
Can be installed into almost any material that is 0.030" or thicker.

Rivet-Type Studs
An ideal alternative to weld-and-clinch studs. When installed, a backside flange resists pullout.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Unread 03-15-2008, 09:11 PM   #26
rookie1
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u all r genious....

hvac i m not start enought to all the technical lingo u posted...but it looks more and more like i may not want to do this by myself, but i'll give it a shot anyway..

i asked the service rep if they would install this when my order comes it ..they could not find the bolts but they said if they dont show on computer it means that they r standard bolts which should be in stock...but who knows
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Unread 03-15-2008, 09:55 PM   #27
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Nice job hvac59! I'll have another approach to this with my install. I'll be using the M10 Hex Riv-Nuts and some M10 T-Nuts. I haven't looked to much at the rear ones yet, only enough to know that there won't be any short cuts back there. Parts on mine are from ACE hardware and Body Shop Supply.
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Unread 03-16-2008, 06:52 AM   #28
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Hang tight rookie1,
Once we get it down pat with the rivet nuts, It'll be a breeze for a permanent install. Although, I spent less than $15 to mount mine and nothing has been cut or drilled. So, when the opportunity comes to drop the plate I should have had time to round up the rivet nuts to make it a permanent install. It is very easy and you won't have anything to loose if you give it a go. Just don't skimp on the fasteners strength, you don't want that plate dropping off on the roadway..................Originally I thought McMaster Carr quanities were like 25 or 50 count, but it looks more like 10 now.

Gramps,
The rivet nuts are kinda finicky for the hole size they go into, I'm looking into borrowing a stepped bit(unibit) and sizing the rivet nuts off of a nearby step on the bit. At least to a very close size to the openings we have now! Unibits are pricy and would hate to not use it again for who nows how long. Anyway, could you let us now what you come up with for sizes? I'll do the same.
hvac59
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Unread 03-16-2008, 06:59 AM   #29
Jeepster55
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i'm off to Lowes today to check on some fasteners "Gramps" turned me on to. i'll give you all a report later today. but first things first.....still scoopin' up mulch in the drive to put around my trees and shrubs.
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Unread 03-16-2008, 09:39 AM   #30
Gramps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hvac59 View Post
Gramps,
The rivet nuts are kinda finicky for the hole size they go into, I'm looking into borrowing a stepped bit(unibit) and sizing the rivet nuts off of a nearby step on the bit. At least to a very close size to the openings we have now! Unibits are pricy and would hate to not use it again for who nows how long. Anyway, could you let us now what you come up with for sizes? I'll do the same.
hvac59

Take a look at these Hex Rivnuts in this pdf file from Cardinal Components on page 10, part # 62211011035. These are specifically made for this purpose and I feel it’s exactly what Jeep uses in the 3 holes on the front. I’ve mic’d the holes 3 times to make sure so I’m very comfortable with the fit. I found an article where someone used a different size on a Liberty and said that they had found them at Lowe’s. We have a store in Janesville that is actually called Body Shop Supply where I hope to pick some up next Saturday and Jeepster is going to check out Lowe’s for us. Worst case is I end up ordering from Cardinal. I have no idea what their minimum order quantities or prices will be so I may have to buy more than I need. If anybody is planning on doing this installation and doesn’t want to fool around searching for these, let me know and I could order extras.

These look very easy to install. I’m going to drill a plate that I can put an M10 bolt threw and tighten down, in place, against the plate, remove the bolt and plate and the Hex Riv-Nuts are installed.

We need 3 for the front and at least 1, possibly 2, for each of the rear plates for a total of 5 or 7. I did see one of these on the rear but I need to take my caliper to double check the size. There is also the hole that I can’t see that is where the longest leg of the rear skid plates attaches. There is a close out/shield that prevents me from seeing all the way up by the floor pan. I’m hoping to be able to get to that before I go down to the body shop on Saturday.

I thought about using the Pal-Nuts like you did but found these Metric T-Nuts at ACE hardware made by Hillman, part number 44752-44764-L M10-1.5. They are ½” tall and have a 1” dia base and will attach with pop rivets. The chamfer around the neck fits perfectly in the center of the holes for drilling the pop rivet holes from the bottom, slide them in the frame channel and finish with a pop rivet. This makes them a permanent, stand alone fastener. The center hole will be easy, the 3 in the rear may need one of the larger holes in the rear channel modified to be able to slide them all in and pulled in to position with wire/string or other means similar to what you did.

Lots of “honey do’s” this time of year so time is at a premium but I hope to have everything rounded up and at least the front done in a couple of weeks.

I’m very interested to see what you run into for the rears!

These are the Metric T-Nuts.
eskid-plates-026.jpg  
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MK Skid Plate fasteners for sale posts 68 & 69

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