Serpentine Belt Removal - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 28 Old 04-26-2010, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
hectorav
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Serpentine Belt Removal

Hey, I have been noticing a wierd high pitch noise coming from the belt system and pulleys. It tends to happen when the Compass is at idle or when acclerating from 0 to about 20-30 mph. When it gets past this, the noise either disappears or I just can't hear it because of the noise of the road.

So my question is, would the serpentine belt be doing this, or is this some kind of loose pulley on the engine? If so, how do I go about removing the belt to change it? I got the 2.4L engine, CVT transmission and about 54000 miles on it. Thanks.

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post #2 of 28 Old 04-26-2010, 12:34 PM
cactus_jack
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check the tensioner assembly. Thats usually the first to go on the belt line. Gramps may have some good diagrams to post for you once he sees this thread. The belt tensioner is pretty easy to fool with, but taking the entire belt off is a pain. Good luck and let us know if you need some tips

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post #3 of 28 Old 04-26-2010, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
hectorav
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Alright, thanks for the quick reply. Hopefully I could get some diagrams of the belt tensioner. Where is it located, is it the pulley all the way in the bottom?
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post #4 of 28 Old 04-26-2010, 03:48 PM
Gramps
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Serpintine Belt

See Fig A for belt routing and reference numbers.

The accessory drive belt (2) is a serpentine type belt that is driven by the crankshaft pulley (6).

The belt drives the A/C compressor (4), alternator (3), power steering pump (1) and water pump (7). Belt tension is maintained by an automatic belt tensioner (8).

Removal:
1. Using a wrench, rotate accessory drive belt tensioner (8) counterclockwise until accessory drive belt (2) can be removed from pulleys (5 and 9).
2. Remove accessory drive belt (2).

Installation:
NOTE: When installing drive belt on the pulleys, make sure that belt is properly routed and all V-grooves make proper contact with pulley grooves.

1. Install the accessory drive belt (2) around all the pulleys except for the alternator pulley (3).
2. Using a wrench, rotate accessory drive belt tensioner (8) counterclockwise until accessory drive belt (2) can be installed on the alternator pulley (3). Release spring tension onto accessory drive belt (2).

VISUAL DIAGNOSIS
When diagnosing serpentine accessory drive belts, small cracks that run across the ribbed surface of the belt from rib to rib (1), are considered normal. These are not a reason to replace the belt. However, cracks running along a rib (not across) (2) are not normal. Any belt with cracks running along a rib must be replaced. Also replace the belt if it has excessive wear, frayed cords or severe glazing.

NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Noises generated by the accessory drive belt are most noticeable at idle. Before replacing a belt to resolve a noise condition, inspect all of the accessory drive pulleys for contamination, alignment, glazing, or excessive end play.

ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS CHART

CONDITION
POSSIBLE CAUSES - CORRECTION

RIB CHUNKING (One or more ribs has separated from belt body)

1. Foreign objects imbedded in pulley grooves. - Remove foreign objects from pulley grooves. Replace belt.

2. Installation damage - Replace belt

RIB OR BELT WEAR

1. Pulley misaligned - Align pulley(s)

2. Abrasive environment - Clean pulley(s). Replace belt if necessary

3. Rusted pulley(s) - Clean rust from pulley(s)

4. Sharp or jagged pulley groove tips - Replace pulley. Inspect belt.

5. Belt rubber deteriorated - Replace belt

BELT SLIPS

1. Belt slipping because of insufficient tension - Inspect/Replace tensioner if necessary

2. Belt or pulley exposed to substance that has reduced friction (belt dressing, oil, ethylene glycol) - Replace belt and clean pulleys

3. Driven component bearing failure (seizure) - Replace component or bearing

4. Belt glazed or hardened from heat and excessive slippage - Replace belt.

LONGITUDINAL BELT CRACKING

1. Belt has mistracked from pulley groove - Replace belt

2. Pulley groove tip has worn away rubber to tensile member - Replace belt

GROOVE JUMPING (Belt does not maintain correct position on pulley)

1. Incorrect belt tension - Inspect/Replace tensioner if necessary

2. Pulley(s) not within design tolerance - Replace pulley(s)

3. Foreign object(s) in grooves - Remove foreign objects from grooves

4. Pulley misalignment - Align component

5. Belt cordline is broken - Replace belt

BELT BROKEN (Note: Identify and correct problem before new belt is installed)

1. Incorrect belt tension - Replace Inspect/Replace tensioner if necessary

2. Tensile member damaged during belt installation - Replace belt

3. Severe misalignment - Align pulley(s)

4. Bracket, pulley, or bearing failure - Replace defective component and belt

NOISE (Objectionable squeal, squeak, or rumble is heard or felt while drive belt is in operation)

1. Incorrect belt tension - Inspect/Replace tensioner if necessary

2. Bearing noise - Locate and repair

3. Belt misalignment - Align belt/pulley(s)

4. Belt to pulley mismatch - Install correct belt

5. Driven component induced vibration - Locate defective driven component and repair

6. System resonant frequency induced vibration - Vary belt tension within specifications

TENSION SHEETING FABRIC FAILURE (Woven fabric on outside, circumference of belt has cracked or separated from body of belt)

1. Tension sheeting contacting stationary object - Correct rubbing condition

2. Excessive heat causing woven fabric to age - Replace belt

3. Tension sheeting splice has fractured - Replace belt

CORD EDGE FAILURE (Tensile member exposed at edges of belt or separated from belt body)

1. Incorrect belt tension - Inspect/Replace tensioner if necessary

2. Belt contacting stationary object - Replace belt

3. Pulley(s) out of tolerance - Replace pulley

4. Insufficient adhesion between tensile member and rubber matrix - Replace belt

Belt Tensioner

Removal:

1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. Remove belt splash shield (3).
3. Remove accessory drive belt
4. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner mounting bolt. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner (8).

Installation:

1. Position accessory drive belt tensioner (8) and install mounting bolt (1). Tighten bolt (1) to 24 N·m (212 in. lbs.) .
2. Install accessory drive belt
3. Install belt splash shield (3).
4. Lower vehicle.

Idler Pulley

Removal:
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. Remove belt splash shield.
3. Remove accessory drive belt
4. Remove idler pulley mounting bolt. Remove idler pulley (5 or 9).

Installation:

1. Position pulley (5 or 9) in mounting position. Install idler pulley mounting bolt. Tighten bolt to 48 N·m (35 ft. lbs.).
2. Install accessory drive belt
3. Install belt splash shield.
4. Lower vehicle.
Attached Thumbnails
Serpentine.JPG   Visual Diagnosis.JPG   Belt Splash Shield.JPG  

Bob

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post #5 of 28 Old 04-26-2010, 07:48 PM
cactus_jack
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see, told ya gramps would help ya out, lol

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post #6 of 28 Old 04-27-2010, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
hectorav
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Thanks guys, I will check it out and try this this weekend.
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post #7 of 28 Old 04-23-2011, 01:48 PM
trackman75
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I followed the instructions today to replace the lower idler pulley and the serpentine belt; grease was leaking heavily out of the old pulley. There isn't much clearance between the bolts on the pulleys and the metal brackets in the engine compartment, so I couldn't fit a torque wrench in to verify, but it seems to be running fine at a very tight torque. Turn the tensioner pulley bolt (the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley #8) counter-clockwise to make the tensioner rotate off the belt so the belt can slide off. The whole process doesn't take very long. Thank you for posting all the details, Gramps. Wheel Works wanted over $300; the Mopar belt and lower idler pulley cost $57 after tax, it's a huge savings to do it yourself.
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post #8 of 28 Old 04-23-2011, 02:27 PM
Gramps
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I'm glad that you were successful and saved some $$. One of the reason that I went with the Jeeps was they had a little bit more room in the engine compartment, not much but I'll take what I can get. "Crows-feet" wrenches, although expensive, do help sometimes.

Bob

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post #9 of 28 Old 04-23-2011, 03:24 PM
CoriolisSTORM
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Just thinking when I saw this thread about how I never wanted to change a belt on my caliber when I owned it... Now with gas like it is, wish I still had it... Of course, it'd have had 100k on it by now...

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post #10 of 28 Old 10-12-2011, 09:51 PM
nuclearf
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This diagram you showed here will fit a jeep patriot 2007 2.4L?
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post #11 of 28 Old 10-12-2011, 10:46 PM
ronjr8102
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gramps-thats a great explaination of the belt system. That is the most info I hav seen about belts and pulleys.
Most belts with tensioners are easy the one that are a pain in the a$$ are the ones with adjustable tensioners.
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post #12 of 28 Old 10-13-2011, 08:34 AM
Gramps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearf View Post
This diagram you showed here will fit a jeep patriot 2007 2.4L?
Yes, it's from the 2007 FSM but as far as I know nothing has changed threw 2012 on the belt set up.

Bob

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post #13 of 28 Old 03-03-2013, 11:27 AM
Beware
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To replace just serpentine belt and tensioner.
Are these the correct parts to gather for the job?

Belt = Mopar Part #04891598AB
Tensioner = Mopar Part #04891595AB
Wrench = 3/8"
Torque Wrench = can go up to 212 in. lbs

Thanks.

edit: does Tensioner come with belt included?
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post #14 of 28 Old 03-04-2013, 05:29 AM
Gramps
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All parts will be separate, no 'combo' deals that I'm aware of. Part numbers are always being superseded so I don't keep track of them but these parts haven't changed much from the beginning.

Your torque wrench would cover the Tensioner pulley but not the Idler pulley. Your 212 in/lbs = only 17 ft/lbs but not to worry, 35 ft/lbs is just a good snug fit using normal strength and no extra leverage.

Since everything is metric I would expect the wrench should be a 10mm but a 3/8" will work.

Bob

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MK Skid Plate fasteners for sale posts 68 & 69

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post #15 of 28 Old 03-04-2013, 11:26 AM
Beware
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LOL... Thanks for pointing that out!

I have a torque wrench that goes from 10-150...lbs only and it's not exactly small. I was already searching for a long pipe for leverage for the past few days and thinking the Americans must be really strong people to be hand tightening tiny bolts to 212 lbs

And I thought I knew the imperial system well


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps View Post
Your 212 in/lbs = only 17 ft/lbs but not to worry, 35 ft/lbs is just a good snug fit using normal strength and no extra leverage.
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