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Unread 10-12-2011, 10:37 AM   #1
pafishman
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2007 MK Patriot 
 
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Location: Lansford, Pa
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remote start stopped working

I own a 2007 Jeep Patriot “sport” that has a factory remote start system that worked till about two weeks ago, now when I press the button the horn blows (activates) and when I press it the second time it doesn’t start but sounds the horn three times. Any help trouble shooting this I would appreciate.

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Unread 10-12-2011, 12:15 PM   #2
IRSmart
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try "re-setting" the remote start by starting the car normally. then turn it off and get out of the car and try again.

it's weird, though, because the car is not supposed to honk the horn until you press the button the second time, and even then it's only supposed to honk once (will not start) or twice (will start), not three times. not sure about that one.
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Unread 10-12-2011, 12:20 PM   #3
Gramps
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I was just trying to find a good answer for this too but could only come up with 'poor connection' in the system or weak batteries in the remote even though they do work some of it.
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Unread 10-13-2011, 07:02 AM   #4
pafishman
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I had the batteries checked in both remotes, all (4) are good. From day one the horn always sounded once on the intial (1st push) of the button, I was told by the dealer that was a so called arming (activation) of the system then on the second push of the button it would start in a few seconds....now all it does is sound the horn 3 x's. I tried yesterday again and this time it did start but shutoff in about 2/3 seconds of run time. Now I'm not sure what or how "IRSmart" is refering to on resetting the remote, because I did try starting the Jeep with the key, shutting it off then trying the remote....no positive outcome.
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Unread 10-13-2011, 10:09 AM   #5
Gramps
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The 'running for 2/3 seconds' is the same thing that will happen when you try to use the wrongly programmed Sentry Key so I'm thinking since your key works it points to the remote start module. It needs reprogrammed or replaced. This may be a dealer only function but possibly a good auto shop or even a locksmith with the proper equipment.

Here is what's involved to diagnose it:

SENTRY KEY REMOTE ENTRY MODULE (SKREEM/SKIM) VERIFICATION

Diagnostic Test
SKREEM/SKIM VERIFICATION
NOTE: When entering the PIN, care should be taken because the SKREEM will only allow 3 consecutive attempts to enter the correct PIN. If 3 consecutive incorrect PIN's are entered the SKREEM will Lock Out the scan tool. To exit Lock Mode, the ignition key must remain in the Run position for 1 hour. All accessories must be off. A battery charger connected to the battery during this time period is recommended.

NOTE: On vehicles equipped with a premium Tire Pressure Monitoring (TPM) system, when the SKREEM and/or the spare tire pressure sensor is replaced with a new unit, a diagnostic scan tool MUST be used to run a routine that allows the SKREEM to be programmed with the ID number and location of the spare tire pressure sensor mounted in the wheel of the spare tire. Follow the programming steps outlined in the diagnostic scan tool for “Learn Spare Tire Sensor ID” under “Miscellaneous Functions” for the “WCM/Wireless Control Module” menu item as appropriate. In addition, if the SKREEM is replaced, the spare tire must be dismounted from its wheel to access and note the ID number on the spare tire pressure sensor so that the ID code for that sensor can be programmed into the new SKREEM.
  • Reconnect the previously disconnected components and connectors.
  • Obtain the vehicle's unique Personal Identification Number (PIN) assigned to it's original SKREEM. This number can be obtained from the vehicle invoice or from the DaimlerChrysler Customer Center (Phone 1-800-992-1997).
  • NOTE: If the PCM and the SKREEM are replaced at the same time, program the PCM VIN into the PCM first. All vehicle keys will then need to be replaced and programmed to the new SKREEM.
  • With the scan tool, select Miscellaneous Functions, WCM/Wireless Control Module. Then select the desired procedure and follow the display on the scan tool.
  • If the vehicle is equipped with Tire Pressure Monitoring System program the Placard Pressure Values into the WCM/SKREEM.
  • Ensure all the customer's keys have been programmed into the new module if necessary.
  • With the scan tool, erase all DTCs. Perform 5 ignition key cycles, leaving the key on for at least 90 seconds per cycle.
  • With the scan tool, read SKREEM DTC(s).
  • NOTE: During PCM/ECM replacement, ensure to transfer the secret key information from the SKREEM to the new PCM. The PCM stores this information only. If the SKREEM ever needs to be replaced, the secret key information can be retrieved from the PCM and then transferred to the SKREEM for security use.
  • NOTE: If this vehicle is equipped with a Steering Column Lock Module, it must be replaced along with the SKREEM.
Are there any SKREEM DTC(s) present?

Yes
Repair not complete, refer to the appropriate symptom.


No
Repair is complete.
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Unread 10-13-2011, 12:24 PM   #6
pafishman
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Thanks for all the help, looks like it's time to grab my wallet and pay the man $$$$$
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Unread 10-14-2011, 08:13 AM   #7
IRSmart
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it sounds like you have an aftermarket remote start, because you A) shouldn't have 4 remotes, you should only have 2 and B) the horn shouldn't be sounding the first time you hit the remote, regardless of what the dealer is telling you. did you have the remote start installed by the dealer, or was it from the factory (ie, remote start is shown as an option on your window sticker)?
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Unread 10-14-2011, 11:12 AM   #8
pafishman
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IRSmart, yes this is a Jeep remote start system installed by the Jeep dealer when I purchased this vehicle new in 2007…each unit has two batteries “Maxwell” (CR1220) one on top of the other
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Unread 10-15-2011, 10:29 AM   #9
pafishman
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I found out the problem, after searching / looking and searching more I found a capacitor of some sort (looks like one anyway)...about 2" long by 3/8' with a wire coming from the end. The capacitor is spot welded to a flat piece of galvanized steel that has 3 holes in it, this was lying on top of the strut assembly....the thing that caught my eye was that on this piece of galvanized I noticed it was not discolored around one of the holes, I got a sheet metal screw and mounted it back where I seen a small hole on the inner fender.......IT STARTED !! What is this ?
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Unread 10-15-2011, 03:51 PM   #10
IRSmart
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most likely a ground that came undone, that's all.
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Unread 10-16-2011, 08:56 AM   #11
Gramps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pafishman View Post
I found out the problem, after searching / looking and searching more I found a capacitor of some sort (looks like one anyway)...about 2" long by 3/8' with a wire coming from the end. The capacitor is spot welded to a flat piece of galvanized steel that has 3 holes in it, this was lying on top of the strut assembly....the thing that caught my eye was that on this piece of galvanized I noticed it was not discolored around one of the holes, I got a sheet metal screw and mounted it back where I seen a small hole on the inner fender.......IT STARTED !! What is this ?
Congrats!! Success is a wonderful thing!
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Artificial intelligence is no substitute for natural stupidity

MK Skid Plate fasteners for sale posts 68 & 69

Also visit me at Photobucket
'06 WK Grand Cherokee Limited Quadra-Drive II, 5.7
'07 MK Compass Limited 4X4, AutoStick
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Unread 10-19-2011, 05:39 AM   #12
pafishman
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Does anybody know what this was that I mounted
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Unread 10-19-2011, 08:24 AM   #13
IRSmart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IRSmart View Post
most likely a ground that came undone, that's all.
.
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Unread 10-21-2011, 05:25 AM   #14
pafishman
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I understand it was a grounding issue, but what is that item that I described that I grounded…..that was my question.
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Unread 10-29-2011, 11:13 AM   #15
Rangerornothing
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It is your hood switch for your remote start when it fell of the remote start module saw hood was open causing it to stop it from starting
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