Has anyone wired a 2012 compass yet for subs? I can't find a passage to rig my power wire to the battery. Everything seems sealed up with grommets and I can't find an alternative. Any information would be appreciated.
Note: not interested in drilling a passage but if that's the only way then I will.
I'm going to guess if you are installing this yourself then you have some experience in where the "normal" spots to pass the wire is. Which gauge wire are you running?
This may or may not help...but I had an 86 Ranger where it was actually easier to go out under the king cab rear section, where a body bolt grommet was and run it under the truck to the front.
Otherwise, if its that tight at the firewall...i'd get my own rubber grommet and drill it.
Treat each of the day's problems as your dog would...
If you can't eat it or screw it, piss on it and walk away!
If in doubt...HIT THE GAS!! It may not always be the right decision, but it will end the suspense!
The build so far....[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/project-predator-1342553/[/url]
4gauge wire and I found a spot along the passenger side, behind the glove box. Literally detach your glove box. There is a hole with grommet, which runs a clear wire (wire run on top then under your washer fluid tank) under your hood. Thanks for the suggestions and if anyone else runs into trouble with the install, send a message. This was literally a nightmare given the weather conditions when conducting this setup.
You running the new subs off the factory amp? Its only like 90 watts.
I despise the Boston one on mine. Yet another thing about these cars that gets mixed reviews. I think the sound stage is all off. Everything up front sounds like it's coming from the 2 1/2" dash "tweeters". I have to fade 3-4 back to tone them down. And the stock sub isnt even close to impressive. I'm adding a single 10", ported box, 3 channel amp that will be 400 watts to the sub, and 80x2 to a set of good components up front. And a 13 band eq/interface between the stock deck and new amp. Factory amp will still run rear 6x9 and 3 1/2".
Oh no. I ran a ac connector to my stock sub, Which connects to my new Memphis Mr 1 amp powering my Memphis m5 12 sub in a ported box. Since I ac connected the stock sub, my door speakers and tweeters still power off the stock amp. The sound balance is unreal and the sub is by far one of the best I've ever heard.
Other then that, piece of cake. I had to rig my remote wire thought. I took speaker wire and literally stuck it into a empty fuse slot in my fuse box. It works and the amp powers off when the ignition is not on and starts when you turn the key. Worked for me, should work for you if you plan on not removing your dash to reach your deck
The equalizer I bought has a power sensing feature. It only turns on if its senses power in the input wires, which is going to come from the existing factory amp outputs. So the inputs to my eq will be the front L & R off the amp, and the sub output as well. The eq has a remote output wire which will then turn my new amp on and off as the eq turns on and off. I won't need to take the dash apart to get to deck but I will to install the new tweeters in factory location.
Audiocontrol LCQ-1 EQ
Arc Audio Xdi-803 amp
Boston G3 10" Sub
Hertz Audio Hi Energy 6.5" Components
Boston SC95 6x9 in rear door
Boston SE35 in hatch
Havent bought the Hertz yet but thats the last item needed
I'm not sure. I was told to not mess with the amps at all. I had a ac connector box, which I used to splice into the stock sub wires which, disabled my stock sub but allowed me to connect my new amp and sub together. Without buying a aftermarket deck and doing all that jazz behind the dash.