Patriot/Compass Premium Sound System Speaker Upgrade
The following is a how to on upgrading the speakers in a 2011 Jeep Patriot Latitude that is equipped with the factory Boston Acoustics Premium Sound system. This info should be accurate for 2009 and later Patriots but may also apply in part or whole to 2007-2008 models as well?
This how to will provide info on replacing 6 of the 9 factory speakers. The 2 front and 2 rear door speakers and the 2 speakers in the fold down tailgate speaker housing assembly. I did not upgrade the subwoofer located in the cargo area nor did I upgrade the 2 tweeters located under the dash. I am not a bass junkie so the factory subwoofer is sufficient for me. The factory amp was retained as well. The tweeters under the dash would require way too much work to access( A-pillar trim needs to come off and then the entire top dash panel )so I decided not to try and change them. On 2007-2008 models I have read that it is easier to access them( remove A-Pillar trim and then pop speaker grilles - accurate? )so you may wish to consider upgrading them with other speakers if you have a 2007-2008?
Trim Tool( ideal )
Small Flat Head Screwdriver -OR- Butter Knife( seriously )
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Torx Bit Assortment & Driver
Wire Stripper/Crimp Tool
Speaker Components & Other Parts:
Front Doors - Rockford Fosgate Prime R1693 3-Way 6X9 Speakers
Rear Doors - Rockford Fosgate Prime R1694 4-Way 6X9 Speakers
Tailgate - Rockford Fosgate Punch P132 2-Way 3.5" Speakers
Crutchfield Speaker Harness Adapter - 12071050 2 Sets( Front & Rear Doors )
Crutchfield Speaker Harness Adapter - 12071039 1 Set( Tailgate )
Assorted Crimp Terminals
Step I - Unhook the negative battery terminal.
Step II - Lower the tailgate speaker housing assembly and remove the (10)ten phillips head screws in the back of the rear panel( cargo area side ). Make sure you hold the housing as you get down to the last couple screws so it doesn't fall. It is best to leave the 2 in the center at the top for last to help hold it. There are NO clips holding it together just the screws.
Step III - Each speaker is held on by 2 phillips head screws. Remove the screws and then unhook the speaker wiring harness from each speaker.
Step IV - Connect the Crutchfield Speaker Harness Adapters( 12071039 )to the Rockford Fosgate Punch 132 speakers( or speakers of your choice ). White wire to positive and the black wire to negative( see note below ). Screw them into the same place the factory speakers came out of. It is a tight squeeze on the screw hole aligment but they do fit( sorry no photo - it came out blury ). Start a screw about 1/2 way on one side then do the same on the other before fully tightening them down to help it fit easier. Plug in the adapter and then test the speakers to make sure they are working( you will have to reconnect the negative cable briefly ). Once you are sure they are working reinstall the rear speaker housing assembly panel and the tailgate is done.
NOTE - the connectors on the Crutchfield Speaker Harness Adapters( 12071039 )do NOT fit the terminals on the Rockford Fosgate Punch 132 speakers. They are too small. You will need to cut them off and add your own.
NOTE - I will only show/talk about changing the speaker in the driver's front door. All 4 door speakers install exactly the same way so there is no need to show/discuss the other 3 doors.
Step V - Using whatever tool or combo of tools work for you remove the speaker grille panel assembly. Make note it is not just the round grille. Get down there and look and you will see that the lower most portion/corner of the door panel is actually part of the grille( or the grille is part of it if you prefer ). You can see the panel break lines in the photo below or on your own vehicle. The grille panel assembly is only held on with clips but it is held pretty tight.
Get down and look up at the underside of the grille panel assembly and you will see a small 3/8" slot in the bottom. Slide a panel tool, a flat head screwdriver, or even a butter knife( seriously )in and pry outward until there is enough of a gap to get your fingers in. Or, you can have a panel tool handy and slide that into the gap and pry out with it. I used a combo of a butter knife to start it and a dash panel tool to pop the bottom free. Once you get it started work upwards. Don't go gorilla and break it but it takes a good tug to free it.
Step VI - with the grille panel assembly off remove the 4 screws holding the factory speaker in place. PAY ATTENTION to which holes the short WHITE screws go in and which holes the long BLACK screws go in. It matters when reassembling things. Unplug the factory speaker harness.
Step VII - Connect the Crutchfield Speaker Harness Adapters( 12071050 )to the Rockford Fosgate Prime 1693/1694 speakers( or speakers of your choice ). Use the R1693's for the front doors and the R1694's for the rear doors if you use the same speakers I did. White wire to positive and the black wire to negative( see note below ).
NOTE - the connectors on the Crutchfield Speaker Harness Adapters( 12071050 )do NOT fit the terminals on the Rockford Fosgate Prime R1693/R1694 speakers very well. They are way too tight(IMO) and trying to force them might snap the mounting tab on the speaker. You can try and open up the connector a little with a flat object so they slide on easier or just do what I did. Rockford Fosgate provides speaker wiring with these speakers. I cut the terminals off the end of the Crutchfield adpaters and then the ends off the Rockford Fosgate speaker wire harness about 4" back. I then spliced them to the appropriate lead on the Crutchfield adapter( large end to the white wire and small to the black wire ). The Rockford Fosgate ends slide on much easier.
Step VIII - Connect the Crutchfield Speaker Harness Adapter( 12071050 )to the factory speaker wiring harness and then screw the new speakers into the same place the factory speakers came out of.
TWO IMPORTANT NOTES...
1) - you have to put the speaker in with the wiring pointing DOWN for the screw holes to line up properly( see photo below ).
2) -make sure that the short WHITE and long BLACK screws go back into the same holes they came out of. Also, make note that the white screws will actually snug up to the speaker face plate. They will not go all the way in like they were on the factory speakers. The long Black screws will go all the way in.
Step IX - Connect the negative battery terminal so you can verify the speaker is working then pop the grille panel assembly back on.
Repeat Steps X - IX for the other 3 doors and you are done.
Hope this helps you out. I highly recommend these speakers for this upgrade. The sound is amazing! Even my 88 year old Dad who has major hearing loss can hear how good they sound and can tell they are a big improvement over the factory Boston Acoustic speakers. I actually thought the factory Boston Acoustic speakers sounded good but these are definitely better.
This took me approx 2 hours start to finish but I could do it now in an hour or less now that I have done it. It is not hard. Just take your time and pay attention to the important notes I provide and you are good to gors. I actually thought the factory Boston Acoustic speakers sounded good but these are definitely better.
Nice write up. One small detail though. The 6x9's in the front door are crossed over internally from the factory amp. They only play bass, no midrange vocals or treble. There is no reason to put an aftermarket 3 way 6x9 there. You wont gain any sound that the amp was never sending there in the first place.
Something like this would be much more useful off the factory amp.
Something designed to play only bass.
I am aware of that. Doesn't mean any speaker used there that has more than bass is a waste. Just means only the bass will come through. Cost of the speakers plays into it for many people. Lots of people want improved sound without going into debt to get it.
The R1693's I used in the front only cost $50 shipped as they were on clearance( new just discontinued speaker ). I wanted to keep the speakers all from the same mfg and theRockford Fosgate setup was the cheapest option that would still provide quality sound.
I am not a bass junkie as stated so I don't care if the bass is not super loud and thumping. NO way in heck though I would spend $179.99 for a set of 6X9 subwoofers. I only spent $230 for the entire 6 speakers and adapters I got. Also, down the road if I pull the speakers when I sell the vehicle I can get more value at resale out of some 3-way 6X9's than I can smaller 2 ways. Didn't make sense to spend a lot on front speakers that only play bass.
Rockford Fosgate in general is a popular speaker brand for Patriot/Compass owners who report good results with them. The R1693's are a very popular replacement with Patriot/Compass owners for the front speakers. The sound quality is vastly improved over the OE BA speakers and for a reasonable cost to me. I got everything I wanted out of this.
I've only replaced the front speakers with the same 6x9s.. I noticed a huge difference. The factory speakers are junk anyway.
They only market that 6x9 as a subwoofer. Its really what car audio people would call a midbass. Which is how Boston/Jeep designed that front door speaker to play. But its one of those things where you ought to buy the right tool for the right job and a full rang speaker isnt the right tool. Wasted tweeters and a hole in the middle of the woofer. But whatever floats your boat.
Kicker used to make a 6x9 midbass that would have been perfect for this application and not expensive. Guess they didnt sell because I cant find them anywhere.
This could be the hot ticket for $100. Buy the RF Prime component set. Comes with a 6" or 6 3/4" woofer and tweeter seperates. And just install the woofer with a 6x9 baffle that crutchfield would send with it. Then you got a dedicated midbass driver doing what its designed for, for only $50 more than the 6x9.
I really think this would be the best way to go on a budget.
Here's a 6.5" in my front door....
Whatever dude. Let's not turn a helpful thread into a pee'ing contest over who is right and who isn't. The speakers work for me and that is all that matters.
Maybe I'm only irritated because I posted 2 threads exactly like this one last year, about replacing both the 3.5's and 6x9's. I pointed out at the end of it the sillyness of replacing the fronts with full range speakers, and you did anyway. So it appears nobody pays attention to these helpful threads anyway. Makes me wonder why any of us even bother trying to help.
I don't know a thing about cold air intakes and lift kits. But in the area I do know, apparently nobody cares.
Kudos on the pics and how-to description. Its a good thread. I just want people to be forwarned there's a better way to do the fronts for not much more money that is all.
You have to remember I knew about the bass only issue before hand but bought the speakers I did because they were on clearance. I looked at all options and these made the most sense for me based on need and budget.
They provide plenty of sound that is an improvement over the BA stock speakers. They work fine there. It shouldn't irritate you. I wanted to save some money and get improved sound. I got that with the R1693's.
Also, as said, when I go to sell the vehicle if I decide to pull them I will have an easier time selling them if they are full range.
I was wondering what the recommendation would be to replace a BA premium sound package in a 2013 Pat. I was thinking about getting RF 6x9 R1693 for the rear and RF P132 for the tailgate. Not sure what to get for the front, maybe some components from RF. Any suggestions. Planning on adding aftermarket 4 channel amp and a monoblock amp for (2 12").
Go into a reputable stereo shop and listen to a handful of them. Then decide. Everybody hears things differently so brand and model is personal taste.
Good call on adding an amp though.
Thanks for the suggestion. But should I be getting components aftermarket speakers for the front. I dont think I should waste money on a 3 way speaker when the factory BA system already has builtin crossover.
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