Looks really easy, if you can change your oil and radiator hoses you can install this.
I’ll rephrase that “if you can change your oil and radiator hoses you can install this.” Along with knowing a few choice words and grumbling a lot!
The instructions look good and the pictures are handy. As far as following them exactly, it doesn’t quite work that way. These instruction and pictures are for the CVT, but those with a 5 speed can follow them, too, the lower hose is the same. The 5 speed also gets the upper hose replaced. All parts are included in the kits except oil and antifreeze (see below). The spring type hose clamps come attached at predetermined distances from the end of the hoses and there are either ribs or stops where they attach so that the clamps are in the right spots.
“The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equivalent ethylene glycol based coolant with hybrid organic corrosion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% Ethylene Glycol and 50% distilled water to obtain a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution.” Peak Global Lifetime meets this spec. It’s a yellowish orange.
A pair of small flat blade screw drivers – for removing large push pins fasteners.
#0 Phillips screw driver – for removing small push pins fasteners.
6” channel locks pliers.
Hose clamp pliers.
Trim panel tools – the larger one works best on the splash panels.
12mm Allen wrench cut down & 12mm deep socket.
13mm socket for battery tray removal.
Ratchet and short extension.
Not shown – T20 Torx driver and torque wrench.
1. Since most of us don’t have a hoist, get the front end up on ramps or jack stands.
2. Remove the battery cover, battery and battery box. The instructions don’t call for this, but it makes it MUCH easier with this stuff out of the way!
3. Remove the skid plate and driver side splash shield. To get to the push pins on the front of the driver side splash shield you will need to remove the front splash shield, this is not called out in the enclosed instructions either.
4. Drain the engine coolant. Remove the radiator cap so that the coolant will flow. If you can find the petcock, please tell me where it is! I pulled the forward hose off of the CVT cooler and caught most, but not all, of the collant in a bucket.
5. While the radiator was draining I removed the oil filter. The instruction call for draining the oil and recycling the filter, if under 3K miles. I just had an oil change so I only removed the filter and saved it for reuse. I lost very little oil, the dip stick was still in the “safe” level when I finished.
6. Remove the oil insert using the M12 Hex Key (an Allen wrench cut off and put in a 12mm deep socket works great).
7. Install the oil cooler with the hose fittings on the top and facing the driver side. There is a little tang on the block that fits into a notch on the cooler. There is lots of slop on this, just position the cooler so that it is parallel with the block. Install the new oil filter insert and Torque to 35ft-lbs (49Nm). This has 2 different sized threads; you can not install it upside down. Reinstall the oil filter.
8. Remove the lower radiator hose, radiator end first and let it finish draining, then remove the engine block end. This hose is no longer needed.
9. Install the new lower hose, it’s marked for which end goes on the radiator. Install the smaller branch hose on the front fitting of engine oil cooler. You will need to “snake” this hose into place and it will be obvious how to route it.
10. Install the smaller hose on the rear fitting of the engine oil cooler and on to the CVT cooler, the first hose that you removed.
11. If you want to check for leaks now is the time. Fill with oil and coolant as necessary and connect the battery cables to the battery using jumper cables.
12. Reinstall the driver side and front splash shield if allis well.
The only variation that I see for the 5 speed is to drain the radiator you will need to take off the lower hose at the radiator first. In your case, both the upper and lower hose have branches running off of them that go to the new cooler. The upper hose has a bracket that is removed and recycled on to the new upper hose. It may be necessary to remove the top engine cover, which simply pulls straight up to remove, to improve access to the upper hose.