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Unread 08-01-2007, 05:34 PM   #16
CoriolisSTORM
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I wouldn't mind the oil cooler, but I dont want/need the wiring or hitch, I dont EVER plan on towing anything in my Caliber. How hard was the oil cooler to install? Cooler oil is usually better. Think I can buy it without the other stuff?

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Unread 08-01-2007, 08:13 PM   #17
Gramps
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The Oil Cooler Kit for the CVT is 82210700, Manual is 82210701; Compass, Patriot and Caliber. Wyckoff had the best price when I bought mine. http://www.wyckoffchryslerparts.com/coenoilco.html

I was going to put it on last week end but needed a 12mm hex key (Allen head) socket. The Allen wrench came in today so I'll be cutting it off to fit into a socket. Full story and pictures to come.

On the CVT you pull the OIL Filter and put in the Cooler and Lower Radiator Hose. On the Manual same thing but add the Upper Hose.

Full story and pictures to come.

Fig 1 - CVT; Fig 2 Manual
cvt.jpg   manual.jpg  
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Unread 08-01-2007, 08:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps
The Oil Cooler Kit for the CVT is 82210700, Manual is 82210701; Compass, Patriot and Caliber. Wyckoff had the best price when I bought mine. http://www.wyckoffchryslerparts.com/coenoilco.html

I was going to put it on last week end but needed a 12mm hex key (Allen head) socket. The Allen wrench came in today so I'll be cutting it off to fit into a socket. Full story and pictures to come.

On the CVT you pull the OIL Filter and put in the Cooler and Lower Radiator Hose. On the Manual same thing but add the Upper Hose.

Full story and pictures to come.

Fig 1 - CVT; Fig 2 Manual
You had a hard time finding a 12mm Allen didn't you? (think it was you) I could've sent one from work up your way We have a homemade set of "shorties'' at work we put 'em in the bolt and beat on them with a hammer to seat 'em really well and grab some sort of cheater bar to get it to work, best is to use a socket wrench and stick it through it and turn.
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Unread 08-01-2007, 09:18 PM   #19
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Yup, that was me . My one from NAPA came in today (pn 67262) all of $5 . The long leg is about 4 1/2" and the short is about 1 1/2". I'll use a dremel with a cut-off wheel and have it chopped down in no time at all.
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Unread 08-12-2007, 01:30 PM   #20
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Engine Oil Cooler Installation

OVERVIEW
Quote:
Looks really easy, if you can change your oil and radiator hoses you can install this.
I’ll rephrase that “if you can change your oil and radiator hoses you can install this.” Along with knowing a few choice words and grumbling a lot!

The instructions look good and the pictures are handy. As far as following them exactly, it doesn’t quite work that way. These instruction and pictures are for the CVT, but those with a 5 speed can follow them, too, the lower hose is the same. The 5 speed also gets the upper hose replaced. All parts are included in the kits except oil and antifreeze (see below). The spring type hose clamps come attached at predetermined distances from the end of the hoses and there are either ribs or stops where they attach so that the clamps are in the right spots.

“The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equivalent ethylene glycol based coolant with hybrid organic corrosion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% Ethylene Glycol and 50% distilled water to obtain a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution.” Peak Global Lifetime meets this spec. It’s a yellowish orange.

Tools required:
A pair of small flat blade screw drivers – for removing large push pins fasteners.
#0 Phillips screw driver – for removing small push pins fasteners.
6” channel locks pliers.
Hose clamp pliers.
Trim panel tools – the larger one works best on the splash panels.
12mm Allen wrench cut down & 12mm deep socket.
13mm socket for battery tray removal.
Ratchet and short extension.
Not shown – T20 Torx driver and torque wrench.

1. Since most of us don’t have a hoist, get the front end up on ramps or jack stands.
2. Remove the battery cover, battery and battery box. The instructions don’t call for this, but it makes it MUCH easier with this stuff out of the way!
3. Remove the skid plate and driver side splash shield. To get to the push pins on the front of the driver side splash shield you will need to remove the front splash shield, this is not called out in the enclosed instructions either.
4. Drain the engine coolant. Remove the radiator cap so that the coolant will flow. If you can find the petcock, please tell me where it is! I pulled the forward hose off of the CVT cooler and caught most, but not all, of the collant in a bucket.
5. While the radiator was draining I removed the oil filter. The instruction call for draining the oil and recycling the filter, if under 3K miles. I just had an oil change so I only removed the filter and saved it for reuse. I lost very little oil, the dip stick was still in the “safe” level when I finished.
6. Remove the oil insert using the M12 Hex Key (an Allen wrench cut off and put in a 12mm deep socket works great).
7. Install the oil cooler with the hose fittings on the top and facing the driver side. There is a little tang on the block that fits into a notch on the cooler. There is lots of slop on this, just position the cooler so that it is parallel with the block. Install the new oil filter insert and Torque to 35ft-lbs (49Nm). This has 2 different sized threads; you can not install it upside down. Reinstall the oil filter.
8. Remove the lower radiator hose, radiator end first and let it finish draining, then remove the engine block end. This hose is no longer needed.
9. Install the new lower hose, it’s marked for which end goes on the radiator. Install the smaller branch hose on the front fitting of engine oil cooler. You will need to “snake” this hose into place and it will be obvious how to route it.
10. Install the smaller hose on the rear fitting of the engine oil cooler and on to the CVT cooler, the first hose that you removed.
11. If you want to check for leaks now is the time. Fill with oil and coolant as necessary and connect the battery cables to the battery using jumper cables.
12. Reinstall the driver side and front splash shield if allis well.

The only variation that I see for the 5 speed is to drain the radiator you will need to take off the lower hose at the radiator first. In your case, both the upper and lower hose have branches running off of them that go to the new cooler. The upper hose has a bracket that is removed and recycled on to the new upper hose. It may be necessary to remove the top engine cover, which simply pulls straight up to remove, to improve access to the upper hose.
etools.jpg   etools12mm.jpg  
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Unread 08-12-2007, 01:33 PM   #21
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Remove the battery cover, battery and tray to expose the CVT cooler and open up your work area.
e1.jpg   e1-1-.jpg   e1-2-.jpg   e1-3-.jpg   e1-4-.jpg  

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Unread 08-12-2007, 01:48 PM   #22
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Remove the six T20 screws and 4 large push pins from the front splash shield and set it aside. Remove the two small and two large push pins from the driver side splash shield and set it aside.

The small push pins are removed with the #0 Phillips screw driver. Using almost no pressure start to back them out and slip a fingernail or small flat blade screwdriver under the head to help remove them.

Find the slots on the sides of the large push pins (shown) and pry the inserts out a little bit. Using the large panel tool (or something similar, needle nose pliers work too) finish removing the large push pins and inserts.

Remove the forward CVT cooler hose and drain the coolant into a bucket.
epin.jpg   e-12-.jpg   e1-9-.jpg  
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Unread 08-12-2007, 01:59 PM   #23
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Remove the oil filter and oil filter insert using the 12mm cut down Allen wrench and 12mm socket.

Install the oil cooler as described in post #20. Tighten to 35 Lb-lbs.
e1-13-.jpg   e1-17-.jpg   e1-15-.jpg   e1-14-.jpg   e1-18-.jpg  

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MK Skid Plate fasteners for sale posts 68 & 69

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Unread 08-12-2007, 02:09 PM   #24
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R&R original hoses with the new ones. Install per the instructions that came with the kit. Lube the inside of the hoses and attach in the appropriate locations. The radiator hose clamps are held open by little clips that once the hose in installed are merely twisted with your channel locks to remove. The cooler line hose clamps were a little bit of a fight but they will release also.

Go back to post #20 to see if you have missed anything and then start it up and check for leaks. Reinstall the battery components, reset you radio (except the station presets) and you're done.

I ordered mine from :

http://www.wyckoffchryslerparts.com/coenoilco.html
e1-7-.jpg   e1-8-.jpg   e1-10-.jpg  
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MK Skid Plate fasteners for sale posts 68 & 69

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Unread 09-27-2007, 10:09 PM   #25
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Mopar Trailer Wiring Harness Question...

Hello everybody,

I just recived the Mopar 4 plug trailer wiring harness from the dealer that I ordered. I read the directions (which don't actually have even a single printed word) it's all pictures (and poor ones at that).

Has anyone installed this yet themselves? It looks simple but quite annoying. It looks like you have to run some piggyback connectors up to the PCM (computer) in the engine bay....

My real questions is....there is a wire bundle wrapped in plastic mesh, which the instructions show as being "stowed away" inside a hole in the spare tire well. What the heck is this for. It's never being showed as used again in the directions, as if you just throw it in there and plug everything back up. I'm considering not even putting it in there at all and just zip tying under the hitch (instead of drilling out a hole in the spare tire well). Does anyone know what the deal is on this thing?

thanks,
-Rich
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Unread 09-28-2007, 04:40 AM   #26
Gramps
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Rich,
I haven't done one yet but see if the pics in post 9 & 10 help out any.
dropt_98_dakota says in post 12 that you don't even have to remove the left rear quarter panel. Maybe we can find out some more info.
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Unread 09-28-2007, 04:41 PM   #27
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Thanks Gramps!

I just read his post again and I am curious if anyone else has found there hitch wiring harness in the trunk area of if ANY of them have ever come installed from the factory. Seems like a pain to go through all this including opening up the ECM and plugging or swapping piggyback connectors in there. Will the fact that I'm doing this myself void any warrenties? (it's my first Jeep)



Thanks,,

-Rich
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Unread 09-28-2007, 05:02 PM   #28
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From what I've heard, none of the receiver wiring has come installed. It's just in a bag thrown in the back. I guess that I can't understand why you would have to pull everything apart to piggyback on the EMC (or TIPM as the case may be). Of course, if you wanted to send me yours, I could install it in mine and take some pictures for you.

Seriously, how soon do you need to install it? I'll be doing one but I can't give you any better time line than "before Spring" next year.
It WILL NOT void your warranty.
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Bob

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MK Skid Plate fasteners for sale posts 68 & 69

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Unread 09-29-2007, 09:23 PM   #29
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Finished Wiring Harness

I finished installing the Factory Trailer Wiring Harness. All I will say right now is what a pain. It works, but what a pain. I did not take pics since it was threatening to rain all day but I will give some tips and advice and a brief walk through for others tomorrow or Monday.

-Rich
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