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#16 | |
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The Necessary Evil
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Madison/Janesville, Wisconsin
Posts: 5,167
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The part numbers are here. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f98/stiffer-springs-lift-extra-load-764262/index2.html#post7124789
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Bob Artificial intelligence is no substitute for natural stupidity MK Skid Plate fasteners for sale posts 68 & 69 Also visit me at Photobucket '06 WK Grand Cherokee Limited Quadra-Drive II, 5.7 '07 MK Compass Limited 4X4, AutoStick |
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#17 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I have LT225/75/16 tires 29.3" and they rub only at full lock, its not a big deal. http://i41.tinypic.com/1zdmavo.jpg As you can see i'm close to the perch but i Haven't had problems. ![]() If you go with too large of a tire you may have clearance problems there IN terms of where my tires run here is where (circled) ![]() |
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#18 |
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Registered User
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According to the links...
Going to the trail rated springs really does nothing (lift wise)?
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If I was a stone, I would rock |
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#19 | |
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The Necessary Evil
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Madison/Janesville, Wisconsin
Posts: 5,167
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Quote:
Tires can also rub because of the tread width compared to the overall width (at the bulge). Generally they are less likely to rub if you can stay with a narrower tread width and the narrower tread is also better in the snow. Choosing the right tread pattern for what you intend to do is more important than trying to gain height buy going with a taller tire. A 1" taller tire is only going to get you a 1/2" extra ground clearance that's why you get some skid plates. A taller tire also increases your final drive ratio, just the opposite of what you're trying to do, gain low end, "around" 29" you're reaching the point of no return. (Original Tire Diameter / New Tire Diameter) X Original Axle Ratio = Effective Axle Ratio) Based on the 27.3" standard tire for the FWD and FD I and on 28" standard tire for the FD II this is the change to your 1st gear ratio by going up to a 29" tire. CVT2 - 14.37:1 / 13.52:1 5 speed - 15.53:1 / 14.61:1 CVT2L - 19.14:1 / 18.44:1 The other points that have been mentioned about the BLD fall under not just the parts involved but also the programming which is according to you VIN code. If you changed out all of the parts necessary to convert an FD I into an FD II you still couldn't get it reprogrammed to work. Some of the parts needed - CV2L trans, shifter, half shafts, ECM, TCM, trans solenoid (to actuate the BLD) and the different wiring harnesses. I'm not trying to deter you from making improvements I'm just trying to help point you in a direction that will give you the most bang for the buck.
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Bob Artificial intelligence is no substitute for natural stupidity MK Skid Plate fasteners for sale posts 68 & 69 Also visit me at Photobucket '06 WK Grand Cherokee Limited Quadra-Drive II, 5.7 '07 MK Compass Limited 4X4, AutoStick |
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#20 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I wouldn't worry too much about it though. The right front tire only rubs at full lock, backing off just a tiny bit is enough to stop it. To give you a better understanding of the situation, here's a few photos of where the tire rubs against the wheel well: ![]() ![]() (I suppose one of these years I really ought to take a hammer to that, to stop the rubbing for once and all. I would need a better way of lifting the Jeep up than what I have available, though. And since it really is no big deal, I haven't really bothered with it.)
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It's a Jeep Patriot thing. You wouldn't understand. |
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