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Unread 01-24-2010, 10:23 AM   #1
cactus_jack
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Morehead, Kentucky
Posts: 628
HOW TO: Installing Power locks and Keyless entry

INSTALLING POWER LOCKS AND KEYLESS ENTRY

OK, so after some time, some good weather, and a good excuse to play hooky from work, I've finally installed my power locks and keyless entry. I took some pictures and here is the write up:

I used the commado kit which comes with everything you need, minus the relays for park lights and horn option

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED:
**Keyless entry and power lock kit
(I used the Commando kit)
**A decent multi-size Torx bit set. (you'll be using this a lot)
**10mm socket with small extension
**Flat head and phillips head screw driver
**Pry tools
**Wire strippers and crimpers
**Coat hanger (or some stiff wire of some sort)
**Window handle clip tool (optional, you can use a screwdriver)
**Drill and drill bits
**Zip ties (to organize wires)


Step 1: Removing Front Door Panels
MK door panels are made in three peices. The middle, the speaker cover and then the whole panel.
First off, you must remove the torx screw inside the door handle itself. Just pop off the cap with a flat head screwdriver and use your torx tool to remove it.
Then, using a window handle tool or simply a flat head screwdriver and remove the clip holding on the window crank. Use caution to not damage the door panel.


The middle section of the door panel can now be removed by using a pry tool and starting from the outside, working your way to the inside.

Now you must simply pry off the speaker cover by using a pry tool and prying from the bottom. It just pops off using the body clips

Now, using the torx tool, remove the speaker itself and unplug it from the harness.

After you have removed the middle panel and the speaker cover, you are left with the remainder of the panel. Remove the small plastic peice behind the door handle and unscrew the torx screw.

We will now remove all of the bolts holding on the panel, using a 10mm socket. They are circled in red on the picture below.

NOTE: The screw labled "TORX" is quite a hard screw to remove. You must use your torx tool and get in behind the panel to unscrew it. Having small hands is an advantage.
Also, the window crank gear mechanism must be removed. Once all three bolts are removed, with a little force, it just pulls off. Omit this step on the rear doors.


OK, now, with one fluid motion, the entire panel can be lifted up, and off of the door. But, the window supports are still connected. You must work them with a screwdriver to fully remove the panel. You must also disconnect the door handle bar to fully remove the panel. On the rear doors, there is a small, white plastic clip holding the panel to the window support. This is no way to effectively remove this clip without destroying it, because there is a ton of glue holding it on. So just simply take a pair of pliers and rip it off, you wont need it anyway.


Step 2: Mounting the actuator and connecting the rods
Now you must mount the actuator and connect the rods together. You may choose any postition you feel is best, but I feel this is the best position.

Using a drill and drill bit sized to the mounting screws in your kit, drill the holes for your actuator. Once the actuator is installed, connect the connecting rods together. Ensure the lock and the actuator are in "full down" position and using the hardware included in your kit, connect them together.
For good measure, test the assembly by manually cycling the actuator up and down, ensuring it locks and unlocks the door properly.

For the rear door, this is how I mounted the actuator:

Mounting the rear actuators will take some tweaking. You must bend the bars around obstacles to make it work. Also, if you mount them on the rear door the way I did, you must wire them in reverse polarity. In my case, I had to connect the blue wire to the green wire, and the green wire to the blue wire. That way, when the actuator is up, the door is LOCKED, and with actuator down, the door is UNLOCKED. This is due to the design of the locking mechanism on the rear door having a pivot point and looking like this:


Step 3: Running the wires
This can be done in a huge number of ways, depending on the location you choose for your control modules. I mounted my power lock module in the driver's side kick panel, and the keyless entry module under the air duct under the dash panel

Once I mounted the power lock module, I ran the wires under the dash, through the wire boot and to the actuator. The door boot must be removed by first disconnecting it from the vehicle body. There are 4 clips that hold it on for the front, and two clips for the rear door. The picture shown is for the front door.

Then, remove the torx screws from the boot connected to the door itself.

The wire boot will now be removable and you can continue to run the wires through it. The easiest way I found to do this is to push a coat hanger through it, wrap the wires around the hanger and pull them through.

Once you've connected the wires and gotten everything done, simply reverse all the steps to reassemble the wire boot and door panel.

Step 4: Running the wires through the rear door wire boot
This my friends is....difficult. It took some simple innovation on my part to get this to work in order to have a clean, professional looking install. Once you remove the wire boot, you must unplug the harness from the boot, and clip a small section large enough for your wires, like this:

It may look sloppy here, but it works and no one will ever see it.
You must now file, or drill a notch in the metal part that the boot connects to (you'll understand what I mean once you actually do the install).
Now just simply reassemble all the parts you have removed and repeat all these steps for the remaining doors.

Step 5: Connecting the module wires
I will not being doing a write up on this part of the install due to the large variety of kits on the market right now and I would hate to be held responsible for a car fire or something! Every kit will have its own instructions. If you happen to have bought the commando kit and need help, I will be glad to help you. Commando also has an awesome tech support line.
Below is a link to all the wire colors and locations you will need. (remove the asteriks)
http://www.the***12***volt.com/insta....asp~TID~98370

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98 XJ Sport Budget Build

Last edited by cactus_jack; 01-24-2010 at 12:15 PM..
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Unread 01-25-2010, 08:14 AM   #2
w4rh4wk
Registered User
2011 MK Compass 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 175
nice write up!
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11 Mineral Gray Metallic Compass 2.4L, 4x4, Auto Mods/Addons:
Pioneer AVIC-X910BT Radio + Jensen JCAM1 Rearview Backup Cam, K&N 63-1567 Performance Intake , Magnaflow Exhaust Part #16777 (Yes it will fit on a 4x4 2011 Compass), Mopar Chrome Fuel Door, Cargo Area Security Cover, Husky floor mats, Mopar Front & Rear Molded Splash Guards
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