HID kit problem on MK's - Page 2

Laloggia · 11-09-2007, 08:02 PM

OK....the only way I have gotten these HID's to work is to trick the car. I had no choice but to make them daytime running lights. I was able to find a fuse i wasn't using....the heated seats fuse. I do not have heated seats, but for some strange reason, i have the fuse for it with power running to it. I ran the red power wire to this fuse and grounded the black wire to the frame. I then spliced the lights into this power supply, which only comes on and off when you start the car or turn it off.

I cannot turn the headlights on or off with the switch inside the jeep. They are always on now when the key is in start position. When it gets dark, i turn the switch on to the parking lights and have the other lights now come on too. No problems....the HID's look awesome in this jeep. I made sure i taped off the headlight plugs so no corrosion takes place in the winter....don't want a short.

Its VERY important that you only splice into a fuse that has no draw...or the car will yell at you and start acting crazy.

I have not tried to wire in an on/off switch yet....too cold out. I'm a wimp and only like working on my projects when its warm.

Mike

GS Audio · 11-30-2007, 10:26 AM

Just curious......why would the lights not work if all you really need to tap into for power is the low-beam wire at the light bulb harness of the headlamps? If using a relay kit, you are drawing power right from the battery and using the low beam wire of the headlight plug to get the "switching" ability for on/off.

Was this the method used to wire the lights up? If not, I suggest making a custom harness with relay (pretty simple) and wiring it up this way. Its simple and gets the job done.

**Gramps** · 11-30-2007, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GS Audio

Just curious......why would the lights not work if all you really need to tap into for power is the low-beam wire at the light bulb harness of the headlamps? If using a relay kit, you are drawing power right from the battery and using the low beam wire of the headlight plug to get the "switching" ability for on/off.

Was this the method used to wire the lights up? If not, I suggest making a custom harness with relay (pretty simple) and wiring it up this way. Its simple and gets the job done.

I believe that the Totally Integrated Power Module is VERY picky about the amps/signals that it gets from the various sources. See Merlin's answer over here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f98/anyone-else-headlight-issues-after-changing-them-490529/

Laloggia · 12-04-2007, 08:43 AM

Gramps, you are correct (once again

). I tried using relays...no luck. Had the same problems. Correct me if i'm wrong, but not all of the fuses are directly linked to the TIPM???? If this was the case, i would not have been able to get this to work using the heated seat fuse. HID's are still running strong. I can probably try wiring up a switch so i can turn them on and off, but the weather this time of year keeps me inside.

-Mike

madrabbitt · 12-22-2007, 07:56 AM

ahh, the joys of a canbus vehicle.

the short version is, no non standard headlights on a canbus vehicle without computer re-programming.

just like no aftermarket fogs in place of standerd units, no headlight/taillight flashers, and blah blah blah.

Welcome to the future.

Laloggia · 12-22-2007, 05:17 PM

I don't like the future. Take me back to the future...part 1,2 and 3.

CharBroiled · 12-23-2007, 07:58 AM

wonder if you could fake it out with a 60 watt (or whatever youre trying to replace) resister of the proper ohm value and ditch the factory lights. at least you could keep the computer happy and do all the wiring direct for the after market lights.

Laloggia · 12-24-2007, 03:19 PM

I never thought of that...it will probably work. Do you think 60 ohms will do it? The HID lights are 35 watts, but i think the initial draw when you first turn them on is higher. I will look into this.

merlinTec · 12-25-2007, 02:08 AM

Hi
I would really love to have a go at this, I think CharBroiled has the right idea. Wish one of my customers would want one and I would give a free days labour just to have a go.

did i really say that? must be Christmas.
Regards,
Merlin

CharBroiled · 12-25-2007, 07:09 AM

resistance (in ohms) = volts squared divided by power (in watts)

if the stock lights are 55w/65w:

12 squared (144) divided by 55 watts = 2.6 ohms
or for 65 watts, 2.2 ohms

you would need 55 and 65 watt rated resisters at that value. I would go with 100 watts resisters just for peace of mind, those suckers will get HOT, might have to put them in an oil bath or on heatsinks.

EDIT: something along the lines of these:
http://www.milwaukeeresistor.com/metalcase.html
or
http://www.milwaukeeresistor.com/roundwire.html

you can get variable ones too just in case the computer is REAL picky.

as a bonus if you get variable ones you should be able to tune it so it the computer will run both the resister and HID relay happily with the stock wires and actually be able to use the stock headlight switch to control them.

Laloggia · 12-26-2007, 12:20 PM

Another reason why this forum is so great. Thanks for the help. I will pick up some of these and let everyone know how it works out.

merlinTec · 12-26-2007, 01:12 PM

HI
Someone correct me if I am wrong (drank a lot last night) 12volts 55watts = 2.6 ohms resistance of the bulb. So you only need a 2.6 resistor to fake the PDC/FCM and going by that it pulls 4.6 amps. So you will then need to know what amps the HID lamps pull (or relay is what I would use as just in case of start up current) then work out what resistance that would be and that away from the 2.6 ohms and this should give you the resistance you need to put in to fool the FCM. Sound correct?
Regards,
Merlin

**Gramps** · 12-26-2007, 07:50 PM

Is this similar to what you are trying to hook up?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-Fuse-Relay-Wiring-Harness-High-Quality-Kit_W0QQitemZ200185720544QQihZ010QQcategoryZ36476Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I have one of the Electrical engineers at work helping to sort this out and he needs to know what relays are being used, if it's separate relays for each side and is it hi beam, low beam or both.

Laloggia · 12-26-2007, 08:21 PM

Those are the correct relays. One for each side. I installed them and they did nothing. I have since removed them. The HID lights only work on the low beams. There are no high beams on the bulb. On my other car that has the kit, when you flip on the high beams, the lights go off. Flip off the high beams, the HID's come back on. Its cheaper to get the single beam bulbs plus i don't think they make a dual beam H13 yet. Not that important right now anyways.

**Gramps** · 12-26-2007, 08:53 PM

Thanks! We'll see what we can come up with. We're doing this in our "spare" time and he said that we could have it configured in a few days.

12-25-2007, 02:08 AM	#24
merlinTec Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: England Posts: 2,944 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Hi I would really love to have a go at this, I think CharBroiled has the right idea. Wish one of my customers would want one and I would give a free days labour just to have a go. did i really say that? must be Christmas. Regards, Merlin __________________ UK Chrysler Jeep Master Tec.

12-26-2007, 01:12 PM	#27
merlinTec Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: England Posts: 2,944 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	HI Someone correct me if I am wrong (drank a lot last night) 12volts 55watts = 2.6 ohms resistance of the bulb. So you only need a 2.6 resistor to fake the PDC/FCM and going by that it pulls 4.6 amps. So you will then need to know what amps the HID lamps pull (or relay is what I would use as just in case of start up current) then work out what resistance that would be and that away from the 2.6 ohms and this should give you the resistance you need to put in to fool the FCM. Sound correct? Regards, Merlin __________________ UK Chrysler Jeep Master Tec.