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Unread 09-19-2012, 06:35 AM   #1
DarthPooh
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Fdi? Fdii?? Cvt?! Oh my!

Hi all...

Just purchased a 2012 Patriot Latitude last night (I'm picking it up today) and I just keep getting myself deeper into the world of "JEEP"

Anyways... I keep reading about the Freedom Drive I vs II and I am not even sure if my vehicle has either one. I have the 2.4L Auto CVT (II, which is on the sticker if that helps any?).

But I'm sure if I had any variation of that package it would certainly tell me, correct?

Also... I am looking into a boat towing (basically I'm next to the boat ramp, concrete). I know the tow capacity of a stock Patriot is 1000#, 2000# with the tow package (engine oil cooler). Is that engine oil cooler necessary if I am only using the Patriot to put the boat in and out of the water (I am literally not towing it on the road at all, it's on my campgrounds).

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Unread 09-19-2012, 07:16 AM   #2
IRSmart
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is your jeep 4x4? if so, it is either a freedom drive I (FD-I) or a freedom drive II (FD-II). the difference between the two (other than a different lower valence and some tow hooks front and rear) is in the transmission. the transmission in the FD-II equipped models has a simulated 4WD low range, like a two-speed transfer case on a jeep wrangler. it will help with low-end torque on the trail. it also eliminates autostick from the shifter (i think, i don't order the FD-II package anymore so i don't know if that's still the case). the FD-II also hurts the overall fuel economy of the jeep, taking it down from 21/26 to 20/23 (which is why i don't order them that way). if your jeep is 4x4 you'll know if it's a FD-I or a FD-II by looking at your fender. if it says TRAIL RATED on it then it is a FD-II. if it does not, and there is nowhere on the shifter that says OFF ROAD then you have a FD-I, and your shifter should look like this one.

make sense?


also, in regards to the towing, that is entirely your decision. if you are comfortable pushing the limits of the vehicle past what it is designed to do, that's your call. i wouldn't do it myself. in fact, i want to put the engine cooler on mine, and i don't even tow.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 07:27 AM   #3
DarthPooh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IRSmart View Post
is your jeep 4x4? if so, it is either a freedom drive I (FD-I) or a freedom drive II (FD-II). the difference between the two (other than a different lower valence and some tow hooks front and rear) is in the transmission. the transmission in the FD-II equipped models has a simulated 4WD low range, like a two-speed transfer case on a jeep wrangler. it will help with low-end torque on the trail. it also eliminates autostick from the shifter (i think, i don't order the FD-II package anymore so i don't know if that's still the case). the FD-II also hurts the overall fuel economy of the jeep, taking it down from 21/26 to 20/23 (which is why i don't order them that way). if your jeep is 4x4 you'll know if it's a FD-I or a FD-II by looking at your fender. if it says TRAIL RATED on it then it is a FD-II. if it does not, and there is nowhere on the shifter that says OFF ROAD then you have a FD-I, and your shifter should look like this one.

make sense?


also, in regards to the towing, that is entirely your decision. if you are comfortable pushing the limits of the vehicle past what it is designed to do, that's your call. i wouldn't do it myself. in fact, i want to put the engine cooler on mine, and i don't even tow.
I was just about to reply to my own thread and poof! Your response was here! Awesome sauce!

After further review I knew I had the FD-I because of my rated mileage 21/26 and not the 20/23 for the FD-II. However, your in-depth explanation with the auto-stick (which mine has) helped. I am also not trail-rated which I noticed another model was on the lot.

As far as the Engine Oil Cooler goes... I'll probably get it and have it installed. I think I was quoted for the tow package as $1100 installed... which I think was maybe a little high from what I've seen online, but I could be wrong.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 07:48 AM   #4
Wmillonig
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How heavy is the boat?

1100 seems a bit high, as the option was only a few hundred if I recall when new. Also, the entire tow package includes the wiring harness as well as a full size spare and the oil cooler. so if you don't need/want the trailer lights and spare tire, you might see if you can get a quote just for the oil cooler, not the whole package.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 08:34 AM   #5
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Go check out the Quick Links and you'll find all of the 'How to' instructions for the receiver, oil cooling and wiring installation. None of it was hard just a little time consuming.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 06:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthPooh View Post
I was just about to reply to my own thread and poof! Your response was here! Awesome sauce!

After further review I knew I had the FD-I because of my rated mileage 21/26 and not the 20/23 for the FD-II. However, your in-depth explanation with the auto-stick (which mine has) helped. I am also not trail-rated which I noticed another model was on the lot.

As far as the Engine Oil Cooler goes... I'll probably get it and have it installed. I think I was quoted for the tow package as $1100 installed... which I think was maybe a little high from what I've seen online, but I could be wrong.
Get the oil cooler even if you are just pulling the boat out at a camp. You never know when the boat may need service requiring you to tow it somewhere or you may have to tow something else down the road. Better to get it installed now then need it, not have it, and be delayed 2 weeks waiting for parts and install. It is a good thing to have as it doubles the max tow capacity from 1000 to 2000 as you already know. It is a good thing overall to have, IMO, even if you do not tow as it keeps oil temps lower.

NOTE - I would NOT exceed the max towing capacity of 2000lbs on the road. Not even for a few miles. JMO but I don't believe the drivetrain in these vehicles is up to more than that.

$1100 for the tow package? Wow, I hope they at least buy you dinner and give you a jar or two of lube with that. OUCH!

You can't even get a true Tow Package on a Patriot/Compass as that would include a hitch and no hitch is available factory for the Patriot/Compass( just a MOPAR Accessories hitch ). If you get the FDII Off-Road package the oil cooler and wiring is included otherwise you can order a Tow Prep package on upper models( doesn't appear to be offered on Sport ). The Tow Prep package includes the oil cooler, trailer wiring, and a full sized spare. It is only something like a $250 option. Pretty cheap as far as options go.

You already have your vehicle so you need to add these things. IMO, other than the oil cooler kit, stay away from the MOPAR Accessories stuff. Just too $$$. That is probably why the quote was $1100 - overpriced OEM accessories + dealer labor rates = screw job.

My 2011 Patriot is an FDI and I did not get the Tow Prep. So I had to add the oil cooler, wiring, and of course a hitch( as all Patriot/Compass owners do who wish to tow something ). I had the oil cooler added at the dealer as part of the deal and it was $240 installed. Expect to pay $250-$275 for the oil cooler kit and install at a dealer. If they want more don't do it.

NOTE - plan on an oil change and some anti freeze when installing the oil cooler.

For the hitch and wiring I went aftermarket. I got a 2" Class III Reese hitch and Draw-Tite T-ONE wiring harness package deal( new not used )off E-Bay shipped to me for $160. I actually had the hitch put in by my body guy as the lower valance on the rear bumper has to be cut for the hitch to fit on all 2010+ Patriots and Compass models( has to be cut even higher & wider for the MOPAR hitch ). I did the wiring as it is pretty straight forward and easy.

NOTE - You will need a trim panel clip tool to remove the tail light housings. Don't try and do it with a screwdriver or you will ruin the pushpin style clips holding it in and maybe even damage the housing or paint if you slip. Get the right tool. Got mine at AutoZone for $12.

NOTE - the various aftermarket, and even the MOPAR wiring harness, require running wires to the front of the vehicle. This can be a hassle if you are doing this in the driveway as the vehicles sit so low. The aftermarket ones require it for a power source( i.e. to battery ). You do not have to do that. After removing the driver's/left tailight housing look to see where the wiring harness comes out of the body( on side of cargo area pillar ). Easily work that grommet out and pull the harness out a ways. You will find a single wire with a plug on it taped on the harness( I think it is like gray/pink or gray/orange maybe? can't remember but it is the only wire there taped down ). This is actually part of the OEM tow wiring. You can splice into it to get your power source. It is protected with a fuse in the vehicle fuse panel and everything as needed( so you don't need the inline one that comes with the harness ). I did mine that way and it has been over a year now trouble free. The wire is there on all Patriots at least through 2011. I assume it is there on 2012 and 2013's too.

Total for my Patriot to get it ready to tow was...

Oil Cooler = $240( installed )
Oil Change & A-Freeze for Oil Cooler install = $35
Hitch & Wiring = $160
4-Way Mounting Bracket = $5
Panel Clip Tool = $12
Hitch Install @ Body Shop = $75
Total = $527.00

I would also suggest going with an aftermarket 2" Class III hitch vs the MOPAR hitch. The MOPAR hitch is only a 1.25" Class I or II( have seen it listed as both ). While it is adequate for a 2000lbs towing capacity the 2" receiver is much more user friendly( i.e. more options with it )plus the hitch is just more rugged( overall/mounted ).

NOTE - max tongue weight is still 200lbs and max towing capacity is still 2000lbs even with a Class III hitch. Do not think it is 350/3500 as they will say. When figuring what you can tow with your vehicle you always compare the hitch ratings and the vehicle's max ratings. Always go with the lower of the 2. So in the case of the Patriot/Compass it is 200/2000 even with a Class III.

Hope this helps.

Here is my setup...

2011 Patriot 2.4L CVT 4WD FDI w/Class III

Lowe 1677WT Deep-V w/40 HP Mercury 4-stroke( 1500-1700lbs depending on gear - no question it is the max I would want to tow with a Patriot or Compass )




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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:11 AM   #7
DarthPooh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wmillonig View Post
How heavy is the boat?

1100 seems a bit high, as the option was only a few hundred if I recall when new. Also, the entire tow package includes the wiring harness as well as a full size spare and the oil cooler. so if you don't need/want the trailer lights and spare tire, you might see if you can get a quote just for the oil cooler, not the whole package.
I called back to the dealership and spoke to the sales guy again and he said that he was mistaken and that the Tow Prep Package and the Hitch with install would be about $770 or so... which makes a LOT more sense. I could probably do it all myself and save a few bucks in terms of labor costs BUT for warranty purposes... a few bucks won't hurt me.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:18 AM   #8
DarthPooh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHPATRIOT View Post
Get the oil cooler even if you are just pulling the boat out at a camp. You never know when the boat may need service requiring you to tow it somewhere or you may have to tow something else down the road. Better to get it installed now then need it, not have it, and be delayed 2 weeks waiting for parts and install. It is a good thing to have as it doubles the max tow capacity from 1000 to 2000 as you already know. It is a good thing overall to have, IMO, even if you do not tow as it keeps oil temps lower.

NOTE - I would NOT exceed the max towing capacity of 2000lbs on the road. Not even for a few miles. JMO but I don't believe the drivetrain in these vehicles is up to more than that.

$1100 for the tow package? Wow, I hope they at least buy you dinner and give you a jar or two of lube with that. OUCH!

You can't even get a true Tow Package on a Patriot/Compass as that would include a hitch and no hitch is available factory for the Patriot/Compass( just a MOPAR Accessories hitch ). If you get the FDII Off-Road package the oil cooler and wiring is included otherwise you can order a Tow Prep package on upper models( doesn't appear to be offered on Sport ). The Tow Prep package includes the oil cooler, trailer wiring, and a full sized spare. It is only something like a $250 option. Pretty cheap as far as options go.

You already have your vehicle so you need to add these things. IMO, other than the oil cooler kit, stay away from the MOPAR Accessories stuff. Just too $$$. That is probably why the quote was $1100 - overpriced OEM accessories + dealer labor rates = screw job.

My 2011 Patriot is an FDI and I did not get the Tow Prep. So I had to add the oil cooler, wiring, and of course a hitch( as all Patriot/Compass owners do who wish to tow something ). I had the oil cooler added at the dealer as part of the deal and it was $240 installed. Expect to pay $250-$275 for the oil cooler kit and install at a dealer. If they want more don't do it.

NOTE - plan on an oil change and some anti freeze when installing the oil cooler.

For the hitch and wiring I went aftermarket. I got a 2" Class III Reese hitch and Draw-Tite T-ONE wiring harness package deal( new not used )off E-Bay shipped to me for $160. I actually had the hitch put in by my body guy as the lower valance on the rear bumper has to be cut for the hitch to fit on all 2010+ Patriots and Compass models( has to be cut even higher & wider for the MOPAR hitch ). I did the wiring as it is pretty straight forward and easy.

NOTE - You will need a trim panel clip tool to remove the tail light housings. Don't try and do it with a screwdriver or you will ruin the pushpin style clips holding it in and maybe even damage the housing or paint if you slip. Get the right tool. Got mine at AutoZone for $12.

NOTE - the various aftermarket, and even the MOPAR wiring harness, require running wires to the front of the vehicle. This can be a hassle if you are doing this in the driveway as the vehicles sit so low. The aftermarket ones require it for a power source( i.e. to battery ). You do not have to do that. After removing the driver's/left tailight housing look to see where the wiring harness comes out of the body( on side of cargo area pillar ). Easily work that grommet out and pull the harness out a ways. You will find a single wire with a plug on it taped on the harness( I think it is like gray/pink or gray/orange maybe? can't remember but it is the only wire there taped down ). This is actually part of the OEM tow wiring. You can splice into it to get your power source. It is protected with a fuse in the vehicle fuse panel and everything as needed( so you don't need the inline one that comes with the harness ). I did mine that way and it has been over a year now trouble free. The wire is there on all Patriots at least through 2011. I assume it is there on 2012 and 2013's too.

Total for my Patriot to get it ready to tow was...

Oil Cooler = $240( installed )
Oil Change & A-Freeze for Oil Cooler install = $35
Hitch & Wiring = $160
4-Way Mounting Bracket = $5
Panel Clip Tool = $12
Hitch Install @ Body Shop = $75
Total = $527.00

I would also suggest going with an aftermarket 2" Class III hitch vs the MOPAR hitch. The MOPAR hitch is only a 1.25" Class I or II( have seen it listed as both ). While it is adequate for a 2000lbs towing capacity the 2" receiver is much more user friendly( i.e. more options with it )plus the hitch is just more rugged( overall/mounted ).

NOTE - max tongue weight is still 200lbs and max towing capacity is still 2000lbs even with a Class III hitch. Do not think it is 350/3500 as they will say. When figuring what you can tow with your vehicle you always compare the hitch ratings and the vehicle's max ratings. Always go with the lower of the 2. So in the case of the Patriot/Compass it is 200/2000 even with a Class III.

Hope this helps.

Here is my setup...

2011 Patriot 2.4L CVT 4WD FDI w/Class III

Lowe 1677WT Deep-V w/40 HP Mercury 4-stroke( 1500-1700lbs depending on gear - no question it is the max I would want to tow with a Patriot or Compass )




WOW! Thank you very much for the in-depth details! This is perfect and actually very cool of you to let me know about the NINJA (hidden) details!

I'm pretty confident I can do the wiring myself (especially with the secret you gave me). The engine oil cooler might be a bit different... These CVT's are new to me... I've worked on MOPAR stuff before but I'm not sure if I am up for this learning curve, it just might be worth the $100 bucks for them to install it.

Again, thanks for all of that!
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Unread 09-20-2012, 08:00 AM   #9
Gramps
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It's not a trans oil cooler as most ppl think, its an ENGINE Oil cooler. It's a finned spacer that fits between the engine block and the oil filter with connections that go to your engines cooling system. and has nothing to do with the CVT. As long as you use the MOPAR parts it doesn't matter if you do the work or someone else the warranty is still covered. I used the MOPAR hitch on mine but highly recommend aftermarket because of the 2" receiver that they have and the different accessories for it, like a tow loop.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 04:51 PM   #10
NHPATRIOT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthPooh View Post
WOW! Thank you very much for the in-depth details! This is perfect and actually very cool of you to let me know about the NINJA (hidden) details!

I'm pretty confident I can do the wiring myself (especially with the secret you gave me). The engine oil cooler might be a bit different... These CVT's are new to me... I've worked on MOPAR stuff before but I'm not sure if I am up for this learning curve, it just might be worth the $100 bucks for them to install it.

Again, thanks for all of that!
As Gramps pointed out the oil cooler has nothing to do with the transmission ALTHOUGH you need to tell them if you have a CVT or 5spd when ordering( some years both use the same kit and other years it is different depending on trans - coolant hoses are different ). The cooler is just a metal housing that goes on the engine block where the oil filter goes( oil filter then goes onto it ) and there are coolant lines that run to it from your radiator hose.

Not technically hard to install but it is a messy job with having to drain antifreeze and oil plus these vehicles sit so darn low to the ground IMO it is easier to just let the dealer or a mechanic do it.
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Unread 09-21-2012, 10:57 AM   #11
Gramps
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I should have posted this too. The Oil Cooler installation starts on post #17. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f98/m...-hitch-442330/

Like NHPATRIOT said the hoses are different between the CVT and the 5 speed, the later years may vary on part numbers too but they will basically be the same.
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