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Unread 12-02-2008, 03:28 PM   #16
ajadams
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2007 MK Compass 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Angleton, TX
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LaLoggia wrote:"Make sure you get the wire harness kit specifically for the Compass. The one for the Patriot will not work. I know this by experience. There are two different part numbers. Also, do not use a universal wire harness that you splice into the taillights. This will not work properly....trust me...i tried taking the cheap way out and the computer doesn't like it. The mopar kit designed for the Compass has relays built into the harness that it needs to work correctly. Easy install with the correct parts."


I bought "Jeep Compass/Patriot Trailer Tow Harness K6859367AB" today. Is that the right one?

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Unread 12-03-2008, 04:45 PM   #17
Gaze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajadams View Post
LaLoggia wrote:"Make sure you get the wire harness kit specifically for the Compass. The one for the Patriot will not work. I know this by experience. There are two different part numbers. Also, do not use a universal wire harness that you splice into the taillights. This will not work properly....trust me...i tried taking the cheap way out and the computer doesn't like it. The mopar kit designed for the Compass has relays built into the harness that it needs to work correctly. Easy install with the correct parts."


I bought "Jeep Compass/Patriot Trailer Tow Harness K6859367AB" today. Is that the right one?
From where?

As for the tail light harnesses, I've had zero problems with mine and it was far less complicated than the Mopar ones. e-trailer.com had some great deals too.
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Unread 12-03-2008, 06:38 PM   #18
Gramps
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From what I've heard the biggest problem is getting the wrong aftermarket kit. It depends if you have a 2 bulb or 3 bulb tail light system. The ones distributed or made by the trailer hitch people (EZ hitch, etc) do work quite well and are easier to install than the Mopar harnesses. But Mopar won't warranty their installation.
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Unread 04-22-2009, 07:09 PM   #19
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Installation:

You can download the instruction sheets that come with the 82209280 harness here. Note the difference between ’07 and ’08 in figures 24 A & B.

http://site.justforjeeps.com/guide/82209280AC.pdf

This was really much, much easier than I thought it would be. Search around for the best price that you can find. I went with the factory wiring simply because I knew that it would integrate with the electricals on mine. Some after markets units have been known to work well too.

You’ll need a good 1 ½” hole saw that will handle metal, I picked the hole saw and pilot up at ACE hardware for less than $20; A tube of RTV sealant, I use some clear silicone, it’s always the right color; a dab of paint for sealing the edge of the hole; a metal coat hanger or about a 3’ piece of wire to “fish” the harness threw the engine compartment; and some Duct Tape is always handy.

I used some Duct Tape and taped all of the engine compartment wires together so that they would hang up a little less when I got to routing it under the chassis and I drilled out the hole in the fuse holder to ¼” so that I could use the auxiliary bracket on the positive battery cable to hold it in place instead of the wire tie shown in Fig 32.

Start by removing the Spare Tire Cover, Spare Tire, insulation pad and Rear Hatch lower scuff plate then drill the 1 ½” hole as shown in figure 5 of the instructions. Put some quick drying sealer around the hole and when its dry thread the long part of the harness down threw the hole. I had heard that this was easier to do with the trailer receiver off but I didn’t notice it being a big deal with the receiver installed. Now put the RTV on the inner lower lip of the boot on the wiring harness and push it firmly down into place. You’ll feel the lip on the boot seat when you push it down in the hole. Take the part of the harness that’s in the spare tire well and slip it into the “hole” at the back corner where the rear Quarter Panel meets the floor show in the picture. You don’t have to take the Quarter Panel off to connect to the tail lights or put it where the instructions show in Fig 6. 7 & 8. You don’t need to stretch out the rest of the harness as shown in Fig 8 either. For the curious (like me) all that’s inside that wire braid loom is 4 relays. You can put the insulation pad, tire, jack, scuff plate and spare tire cover back in now, you’re done with that area.












Now you’ll want to connect the Trailer Wiring Plug to the built in bracket that’s on the receiver. Fig 13 & 14 show it the bracket as being vertical but mine was horizontal. Either way your receiver was made makes no difference. Just push the plug in and keep wiggling it around until the “MOPAR” logo is threw the hole and it should lock in place just fine. This part of the harness I did a tri-fold on and put the part with the silver insulation up under the muffler heat shield. The rest of it I tie wrapped it to the receiver.






Next you’ll need to tape all of the leads together on the front end of the harness and snake the wiring up to the front drivers side of your Jeep. Start by putting the other section of silver insulation under the side of the muffler heat shield and then over the EVAP canister and over and threw the suspension components keeping it away from where a moving part could catch it. The Figures in the instructions don’t show much detail but I thought the routing was pretty easy. Fig 19 shows removing a small close out panel that I removed from mine when I did the Skid Plates. It’s pretty straight forward. Remove the nuts with a 10mm socket and put it back on after the wire is run.





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Unread 04-22-2009, 07:12 PM   #20
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Now you’ll see 3 harness retainers under the mid section of the body. The new harness does NOT fit in the slots. It sits on top of the slots and is wire tied into place.

Fig 21 shows them taping the coat hanger to the harness and pushing it up threw the engine compartment. I did mine just the opposite, I dropped a coat hanger drown from the top at the passenger side of the Master Cylinder and just forward of it. I then crawled back underneath and hooked the coat hanger on to the fuse holder at the end of the wiring harness, went back up top and pulled it threw.

Now that the wires are up on top remove the battery cover, disconnect the Negative Battery Cable and kind of temporarily route the rest of the harness around the back side of the Totally Integrated Power Module (so you wondered where that was). Now pull the TIPM up off of its 3 clip fasteners and see if you can rotate the top of it towards the inner part of the engine compartment to expose the bottom of it. This was a little difficult on mine. The wiring harness that comes up in the bottom front of it was very stiff and it took some pulling and tugging on that harness to get the module to come up enough to be able to get to the bottom of it. This is shown in Fig 28 – 30 there is just no detail. You’re trying to get toe the BROWN (BR) connector that will be on the inner side of the module. Pull the brown connector off, replace it with the brown connector from the Trailer Harness and then plug the one you just took off into the remaining brown connecter from the Trailer Harness. There is a nice space at the rear and under where the TIPM sits and that’s where I positioned the section of the new harness where it’s branched off. Now put the TIPM back in place making sure that you get it posited over all 3 of the clips.











Next take the nut completely off the positive battery terminal and connect the wire with the fuse holder to it. I bent this terminal 90 degrees so that it fit better. Now remove the nut on the auxiliary lead and attach the fuse holder. Now take the nut completely off of the negative cable, bend the terminal from the harness to 90 degrees and put the negative cable back on. Put the battery cover back on. Check your wire routing and use the wire ties where appropriate.



That’s IT!
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Unread 04-24-2009, 09:41 AM   #21
PITMAJH
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DON'T get the Valley "T" kit for an '07 compass part # 30148

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps View Post
Wyckoff is close to being the least expensive for the MOPAR hitch, the aftermarket ones are less. The hidden hitch is very popular and I believe that it takes a 2" drawbar where the MOPAR one is 1 1/2". Most dealers can install these and so can U-Haul and other truck rental places. It could pay to shop around.

Be sure to get the right wiring harness. If I have my facts straight the '07's take a 3 wire pigtail and the '08's take a 2 wire and they all take the relay type system unless you get the factory one.
The Valley #30148 Is a "t" kit only and does not have the relay box. Get the kit that runs directly off of your battery such as Valley# 32253. I have spoken with the techs there and they are aware of and working on the problem.
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