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Unread 03-22-2011, 01:25 PM   #1
ukjeepcompass
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compass clutch failure any good manuals

it would appear the clutch has gone in my 2007 compass. seems a little premature with only 67k and no towing or off road work. its the 2.0 crd.
the pedal is now like a wet fish but there was no slipping banging, grinding or any other signs it just went.
is it possible that this could infact just be the slave cylinder and or master cylinder rather than the clutch?
anyone got any experience of this and anyone no if there are any decent manuals out there for the compass as I know haynes dont do one.

Jeep want £1200 to replace the clutch, which I cant afford. I am competant with cars
any help would be appreicated

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Unread 03-22-2011, 04:17 PM   #2
tjkj2002
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Being FWD based the trans will have to be dropped from underneath while the engine is supported from above(like in pic below).Big pain in the rear if doing on the ground,a lift makes it so much easier.

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Unread 03-22-2011, 04:43 PM   #3
ukjeepcompass
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thanks,
On closer inspection now I have got the car home I dont think it is the clutch but more likely the slave cylinder.
is this remote or inside the clutch housing?
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Unread 03-22-2011, 04:46 PM   #4
armystrong68w
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yeah i doubt its the clutch, it would start slipping before it gives out, you woulda had a lot of warning. plus 67k is way to low, even for someone new to driving a clutch (not saying you are, just saying in general). but yeah i have no idea what it could be, just doubt its the clutch. Gramps will help you out when he signs on!!
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Unread 03-22-2011, 04:52 PM   #5
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukjeepcompass View Post
thanks,
On closer inspection now I have got the car home I dont think it is the clutch but more likely the slave cylinder.
is this remote or inside the clutch housing?
If it's a internal slave cylinder then the trans must be removed,external slave the trans does not need to come out.Make sure to check the master cylinder also for leaks.
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Unread 03-22-2011, 05:54 PM   #6
ukjeepcompass
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yeah I am pretty sure its not the clutch and not new to manual as most cars over here in uk are manual :P

yeah I planned to check the master cylinder and slave cylinder, didnt know there were 2 slave cylinders though, internal and external.

if its the internal one thats gone might it be worth replacing th clutch anyway if i have to take all the transmition out to do the internal cylinder?
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Unread 03-23-2011, 09:07 PM   #7
Gramps
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This is very abbreviated from most of the "how to's" that I post because you said that you are familiar with automotive work. If you want more info I'll be glad to post it but I'll need some time to do pictures, etc. I'm doing this down and dirty so that you can get a feel of what you're in for.

The Clutch Master mounts to the clutch pedal and is supplied with fluid from the Brake master. It consists of a piston and cylinder housing, an actuating push rod, and an interconnecting hydraulic tube.

Remove the engine cover.
Remove air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect battery negative cable. Refer
Disconnect hydraulic supply tube to clutch master cylinder. To completely drain clutch master cylinder and tubing, remove brake master cylinder cap.
Disconnect hydraulic tube and drain fluid into suitable container. Lower vehicle.
Remove instrument panel bezel.
Disconnect clutch master cylinder pushrod from clutch pedal.
Disconnect clutch master cylinder supply line from brake master cylinder reservoir, Cap off or collect reservoir fluid spillage.
Remove hydraulic tube from left rail retainer.
CAUTION: Use care when removing clutch master cylinder from engine compartment. Aggressive handling can result in a damaged hydraulic tube and improper clutch release operation upon reassembly.
Release master cylinder by rotating to disengage from pedal bracket assembly.
CAUTION: Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled on any painted surfaces, wash it off immediately with water.
Remove master cylinder assembly from mounting position and carefully work hydraulic pipe from out of engine compartment.

******************************

The Clutch Slave cylinder consists of a hydraulic piston and cylinder, seal and return spring. It is fastened to the transaxle bellhousing. The slave cylinder is connected to the clutch master cylinder hydraulic pipe, which is retained to the cylinder by a pair of retainer clips, and has a bleed port to facilitate the removal of air from the system.

Remove transaxle from vehicle (Refer to TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL - REMOVAL).
Remove bolts to slave cylinder-to-clutch bellhousing bolts and remove slave cylinder from transaxle.

Install slave cylinder to transaxle using new bolts.
NOTE: Torque three CSC body screws first, then torque the fluid tube attachment.


Torque slave cylinder-to-case bolts in three steps:
2 N•m (18 in. lbs.)
5 N•m (44 in. lbs.)
8.4 N•m (74 in. lbs.)

Install transaxle - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL - INSTALLATION.
Bleed clutch hydraulic system. - CLUTCH - STANDARD PROCEDURE.
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Unread 03-23-2011, 09:33 PM   #8
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps View Post
This is very abbreviated from most of the "how to's" that I post because you said that you are familiar with automotive work. If you want more info I'll be glad to post it but I'll need some time to do pictures, etc. I'm doing this down and dirty so that you can get a feel of what you're in for.

The Clutch Master mounts to the clutch pedal and is supplied with fluid from the Brake master. It consists of a piston and cylinder housing, an actuating push rod, and an interconnecting hydraulic tube.

Remove the engine cover.
Remove air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect battery negative cable. Refer
Disconnect hydraulic supply tube to clutch master cylinder. To completely drain clutch master cylinder and tubing, remove brake master cylinder cap.
Disconnect hydraulic tube and drain fluid into suitable container. Lower vehicle.
Remove instrument panel bezel.
Disconnect clutch master cylinder pushrod from clutch pedal.
Disconnect clutch master cylinder supply line from brake master cylinder reservoir, Cap off or collect reservoir fluid spillage.
Remove hydraulic tube from left rail retainer.
CAUTION: Use care when removing clutch master cylinder from engine compartment. Aggressive handling can result in a damaged hydraulic tube and improper clutch release operation upon reassembly.
Release master cylinder by rotating to disengage from pedal bracket assembly.
CAUTION: Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled on any painted surfaces, wash it off immediately with water.
Remove master cylinder assembly from mounting position and carefully work hydraulic pipe from out of engine compartment.

******************************

The Clutch Slave cylinder consists of a hydraulic piston and cylinder, seal and return spring. It is fastened to the transaxle bellhousing. The slave cylinder is connected to the clutch master cylinder hydraulic pipe, which is retained to the cylinder by a pair of retainer clips, and has a bleed port to facilitate the removal of air from the system.

Remove transaxle from vehicle (Refer to TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL - REMOVAL).
Remove bolts to slave cylinder-to-clutch bellhousing bolts and remove slave cylinder from transaxle.

Install slave cylinder to transaxle using new bolts.
NOTE: Torque three CSC body screws first, then torque the fluid tube attachment.


Torque slave cylinder-to-case bolts in three steps:
2 N•m (18 in. lbs.)
5 N•m (44 in. lbs.)
8.4 N•m (74 in. lbs.)

Install transaxle - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL - INSTALLATION.
Bleed clutch hydraulic system. - CLUTCH - STANDARD PROCEDURE.
So they do use a internal slave cylinder,that sucks.
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Unread 03-23-2011, 09:46 PM   #9
Gramps
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Ya, I had posted that info a few years back but never dis a write up. They just wasnted to know where it was and didn't want to get into working on it themselves. Pulling the dash for the little clutch master "piston and cylinder" sucks too.
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Unread 03-24-2011, 01:59 PM   #10
ukjeepcompass
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top work gramps.
it sounds worse than I imagined but hey ho on we go. might as well put a new clutch plate in if i end up going in for the slave.
I am pretty sure I follow it all but keep an eye out for me shouting HELP!!

I plan on starting it on Tuesday I think. and will hopefully be running by Thurday

when you say pulling the dash do you mean the dashboard has to come out?
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Unread 03-24-2011, 02:57 PM   #11
Gramps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukjeepcompass View Post
when you say pulling the dash do you mean the dashboard has to come out?
No, they would call that the "Instrument Cluster". They normally have a link in the Service manual if there are other areas that need to be removed but this doesn't. If there is not some kind of "bezel" that is obvious when you get the previous parts removed then they may be talking about the "steering column opening cover", under the dash, that by removing it would allow access to the clutch rod. It can simply be removed with a trim stick. I want to just add that if we were getting deep into the cluster and electrical system there would be a CAUTION for disconnecting the air bag sensor, and they don't. I think we're making more of this than we need to, I hope.

Here they have a slightly different term on the installation instructions.

1. Install clutch master cylinder (1).
2. Insert tube into master cylinder port and install retaining clip (5).
3. Connect clutch master cylinder supply hose (2) to brake master cylinder reservoir (1).
4. Verify that brake master cylinder reservoir is full and cap is off.
5. Position clutch master cylinder body vertically, with pushrod pointing down, for about ten seconds to purge air trapped from end of cylinder.
6. Install clutch master cylinder body to dash panel and 1/4 turn to secure.
7. Connect clutch master cylinder rod to clutch pedal pin. An audible “click” should be heard.
8. Install lower instrument panel bezel.
9. Connect battery negative cable.
10. Install air cleaner assembly (1).
11. Verify that brake master cylinder reservoir is full. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if necessary.
12. Bleed clutch system (More info on this is available too, if needed).
13. Actuate clutch pedal a minimum of fifteen times to allow any air ingested into the system to vent to the master cylinder reservoir. If residual air becomes trapped in the system, it is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic system.
14. Verify proper clutch release system operation.
assembly.jpg   engine-compartment.jpg  
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Unread 03-24-2011, 05:06 PM   #12
ukjeepcompass
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magic, cheers

ill keep everyone posted anyways, and ill take my camera for a few piccies along the way
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Unread 03-24-2011, 05:37 PM   #13
Gramps
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I hope that it goes well for you!
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Unread 03-24-2011, 11:02 PM   #14
Rob K
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I'll be following along here. I may be getting a Patriot in the future and I'm interested to know how the clutch is done on one of these. I may be doing this repair myself someday. Some pics and descriptions would be good if you have the time.
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Unread 03-26-2011, 07:45 AM   #15
ukjeepcompass
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hey,
I ma getting confused now,
after taking off all the plastics and the air box etc so I can see what is going on I have been pumping the clutch whilst my dad looks for movement and leaks. we have been unable to locate any leaks but in the pumping the clutch has gone back to normal and is working.
this has styumped me a bit as there is obviously a problem for it to have all gone wrong in the first place. we are thinking along the lines of air in the system but how its got there? there could be a split in a pipe but i cant see one. Am i right in thinking that the clutch runs off of the brake fluid resevoir? and is there a separate bleed or is it just like usual that you remove the resevoir lid and pump to push the air out of the clutch?

any suggestions or anyone experience similar things any feedback would be appreciated.

cheers
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