Changing Plugs in Compass? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 23 Old 07-16-2008, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
ups4
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Changing Plugs in Compass?

Has anybody had the opportunity to change the plugs in their Compass yet.
I'm sure someone has and I was wondering how difficult it is.

I'm sure not gonna pay the dealer to do something so simple, plus I enjoy getting my hands greasy...as long as I don't screw things up .

The wife's grocery getter needs new ones, so any advice would be great.
Thanks,

Paul

Edit: I did search for this, but didn't see anything useful.


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post #2 of 23 Old 07-16-2008, 06:13 PM
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cuemark8 chaged his here

Zappy changed his here

I should have changed mine about 3K ago but I'm waiting to hear back from Zappy and then find the time.

Bob

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post #3 of 23 Old 07-16-2008, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Gramps, I knew I could depend on you for an answer .
But what I would like to see is a how-to for changing the plugs.

I Googled it, but that turned up nothing either. Surely there has to be a tutorial on how to do this. I haven't even looked under the hood to see how the plugs are situated yet , so it may be a very straight forward project....don't know.

If you turn up anything, or get around to doing it yourself first, let me know.

Thanks again,

Paul

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post #4 of 23 Old 07-18-2008, 07:26 AM
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They're not hard at all to change, though you do need a certain sized star bit to remove the top of the boot that covers the plug. I don't remember the actual size, but it's a pretty standard size as I had the one I needed in my limited tool kit.

Lift off the plastic shroud that covers the engine and the first thing you'll notice is there isnt any plug wires per se that a lot of us are used to. You have four evenly spread out somewhat elliptical shaped pieces right on top that are screwed down with the previously mentioned star bit. Just unscrew them, pull out the plug boot and replace your plug after gaping it. Make sure when replacing the boot that you hear it 'snap' back onto the plug to be sure you have a solid connection and then screw back in the star bit. Move to the next one and repeat.

Was really the easiest plug changing I've done on a vehicle in a while.
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post #5 of 23 Old 07-18-2008, 04:46 PM
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You can follow Zapppy's lead on this and here's some info from the SM.









Installation: Special care should be used when installing spark plugs in the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be sure the plugs do not drop into the wells, damage to the electrodes can occur.

Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque. Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a change in the spark plug gap. Overtightening can also damage the cylinder head.

1. To avoid cross threading, start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand.

2. Tighten spark plugs to 17.5 ±2 N•m (13 ±2 ft. lbs.).

3. Install ignition coil on to spark plug.

The Torx Heads are a T30.
Attached Thumbnails
eSpark Plugs-Coils.jpg  

Bob

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post #6 of 23 Old 07-18-2008, 05:54 PM
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We are changing plugs on an aluminum head, What about anti-seize for those threads?

We used to do that in my mechanic days. Do people still use that?
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post #7 of 23 Old 07-18-2008, 06:50 PM
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The SM doesn't mention it but I would use it. Again, from the old days but a wise practice.

Bob

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post #8 of 23 Old 07-18-2008, 07:20 PM
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Thanks for the graphics to go along with the verbage Gramps. It makes a lot more sense being able to see it as well. I did use anti-seize for the threads on the plugs I installed. I've always found it so much easier to remove plugs that I previously used anti seize on that its pretty much standard practice for me.

I did not disconnect the negative lead from the battery before doing this though....I wonder if that might be where my problems with the mileage now can be traced back to..... I'm certainly going to pull that negative on Sunday and let it sit for an hour or so to hopefully reset the computer and see what happens.

Last edited by Zappy; 07-18-2008 at 07:23 PM. Reason: additional information regarding negative cable
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post #9 of 23 Old 07-19-2008, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unibus View Post
We are changing plugs on an aluminum head, What about anti-seize for those threads?

We used to do that in my mechanic days. Do people still use that?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps View Post
The SM doesn't mention it but I would use it. Again, from the old days but a wise practice.
....and again, from the 'old days', when changing plugs in any aluminum head, ALWAYS start the new plugs BY HAND to ensure you don't get them cross-threaded.

i know, everyone knows that......but ya never know there might be that ONE PERSON that doesn't.....
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post #10 of 23 Old 07-19-2008, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies guys.
After removing the plastic cover thingy, I can see that it's pretty straight forward. Very similar to my KJ with the coil packs on top....cept it's only 4 and it's in line which makes it easier to get to them.

One thing I would like to add to the procedure is to make sure you take some compressed air and blow out all the junk that's accumulated around the plug/coil area. Don't want any of that stuff floating around in the cylinder.

Thanks again.

Paul

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post #11 of 23 Old 07-19-2008, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps View Post
You can follow Zapppy's lead on this and here's some info from the SM.
Gramps,

When you say "info from the SM", what do you mean?
I couldn't find any info about changing the plugs on the Compass.

Thanks for the visual clues , it's much easier to see it before you dig into it.

Turns out, it was a snap and only took about 20 minutes...including the time I had to take to stop and look for the compression washer that fell on the garage floor and disappeared completely . I finally found it just as I was about to leave to go back to the parts store to buy a new plug to get the washer.

Paul

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post #12 of 23 Old 07-19-2008, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ups4 View Post
Gramps,

When you say "info from the SM", what do you mean?
I couldn't find any info about changing the plugs on the Compass.
Paul
SM = Service Manual (on CD)

Service Information/ 8-Electrical/ 8-I Ignition Control/ Ignition Control - Service Information/ Spark Plug removal/ 2.0/2.4

There ya' go.

Bob

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post #13 of 23 Old 07-19-2008, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Ahhhh....Service Manual.
I shoulda known .

Thanks Gramps.

Paul

08 KK Sport, Red Rock for me
07 Compass LTD, Steel Blue for wifey.
08 Patriot Sport, Jeep Green for son.
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post #14 of 23 Old 07-20-2008, 09:51 AM
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Just as a side note... make sure to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery as outlined in Gramps post with the graphics. After I changed my plugs I was having some real issues with my mileage dropping measurably on me and I couldnt figure out what was causing it.

I disconnected the negative terminal yesterday and let it sit for about an hour to reset the computer and then re-attached and drove to work. My average mpg went from 21.7 to 26.2 for the 50 mile round trip. Too early to say for absolute certain thats what the problem was, but its sure looking like it was for now.
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post #15 of 23 Old 07-20-2008, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Zappy,

Will this also reset any stored information, such as preset radio channels and such?

I didn't do this when I changed my plugs, and I never have before on any other plug change. Never noticed any ill effects by not having done this. Of course, this might be different with the Compass .

I also didn't remove the coil wire from the coils, except for the far right one cause there wasn't enough play in the wire to take the whole thing out intact. I can't imagine that this would cause any harm....would it?

Paul

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07 Compass LTD, Steel Blue for wifey.
08 Patriot Sport, Jeep Green for son.
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