I have noticed the acceleration issue a lot on my Caliber R/T FWD CVT. (what a name!) Anyway, I can push it to the floor and the car will not accelerate. My thinking is it has something to do with the drive by wire system in it and the computer trying to decide when best to accelerate... I am not a fan of the system at this point, taking 5 seconds while you **** around and figure out if I'm telling you to accelerate is NOT a safe way to do things. Its almost like the engine is lugging really badly even though I'm in normal D mode. And yeah, getting the dealer to replicate the problem is ridiculous, the last time I took mine to the dealer they didn't do anything to it, just wasted my time. (and it cost me quite a bit too, a tank and a half of gas in my Wrangler as opposed to maybe 1/2 tank in the car...)
This is reffered as the "No Throttle Response" problem on Caliber forums.
Mine does that and it royally ticks me off. It's the reason I registered on here. Trying to gather more information for a further fix.
BTW, Hi all! I'll introduce myself in a bit.
For now, one thing I found out is that this pedal-of-death thing seems related to the engine rather than CVT itself. You'd think the car is being super-anal-retentive about acceleration if it things that the CVT pulleys are not in the proper position for required torque, but try this:
Next time your Patriot/Compass does that to you, shift in neutral, stomp the pedal and wait until your car reaches 4000RPM. Let it wind down and re-engage: your transmission will be WAY more responsive on acceleration, not exhibiting the dead pedal at all.
This has been confirmed by at least another AWD Caliber owner so I know I'm not dreaming this up. This issue might be related to the VVT itself (or rather, a combination of the VVT + CVT throttle body software).
I haven't reviewed the complete forum guidelines yet so I'll omit saying I'm a transfuge from some other Caliber Forumz that go under the name "mouser".
On here, I'm just like some Compass' bastard unwanted brother, Calibastard. Greetings people.
Back on topic ...
On that other unnamed forum, we refer to this problem as the "No Throttle Response" issue. Another less flattering nickname is the "dreaded pedal of death".
My AWD Caliber R/T (aka, Compass - 1 inch clearance) has given me this problem frequently and it nearly killed me once.
After all my investigation (including using the Co-Pilot CanBus-connected computer), nothing has ever resulted in my dealer, or Chrystler, even admitting the problem existed. Yet, many of us have that issue.
Over my 18 months of suffering my car (it's a love-hate thing), I have discovered something interesting wich was confirmed by at least another Caliber owner.
Next time your Patriot/Compass decides to comatose on you, switch to Neutral, stomp the gas pedal and rev the engine up to at least 4000 RPM and let go, re-engage when engine reaches idle (or near-idle) RPM and then accelerate.
Your car will now be magically responsive.
What this means is that the issue is not even related to the torque converter, nor CVT pulley position being too high for the required acceleration (thus the car easing it in until it can reposition things).
The car is responsive again simply because it reached RPMs between the 3500-4000 RPM range. I know this for a fact. Next time your car does it, just stomp and let the car slug forward. Keep your eyes on the RPMs. You'll see that it jumps forward like mad when it reaches somewhere around 3700 RPM. It seems to be a constant number too. This is what prompted me to try reaching that RPM while in neutral. It works, and it's faster and SAFER than engaging at snail speed into oncoming trafic.
It seems like the issue is related to BAD Chrysler programming (wich we know, having compared the same engine in Mitsubishi and transmission in Nissan cars), or faulty sensors relating to the throttle boddy, including any of the following:
- VVT input or output valve position
- Air temperature sensors
- Fault or unexpected readings on input vs output torque
- Engine speed
- Input or Output CVT pressure
and quite possibly other sensors.
I have also noticed that there is greater possibility of this defect to show itself on rainy or otherwise damp days or conditions (including interior garage during winters, where humidity is often high due to snow/ice melting off the cars in said indoor car parks). This means, faulty wiring might also be in cause.
There seems to be nothing at this point we can do (other than that neutral stomp hack above) that can help us get this issue fixed. Other, perhaps, than a class action suit or other means of pressure.
I want Chrysler to admit there's a problem and reprogram/repair our vehicles. Until that's done, I've already watered down two customers who asked me how my Caliber was. More will come for sure.