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Unread 01-24-2008, 06:48 AM   #1
CharBroiled
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autostick conversion?

our 07 patiot didnt come with autostick. seems the 08s have it standard but when we bought our 07 we could only pick from what they had and since it was to be the wifes, color was the important part

so Ive heard a CVT2 can be converted to autostick by someone *cough* Gramps *cough* .. what needs to be done?

my shifter has P, R, N, D, and L. I want that +/- position

from what Ive seen on my patriot, there is a cable from the shifter to the transaxle. I originally though it shifted "by wire" all electronically but it looks like its at least partly mechanical.

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Unread 01-24-2008, 07:56 AM   #2
Gramps
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It really does look pretty easy. Change the shifter, bezel and run some wires. I'll do a full write up tonight with some wiring diagrams and pics. The instrument panel controls the programming and recognizes the new wires for the upshift/downshift signals that you run to the TCM. Reprogramming not required.
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Unread 01-24-2008, 08:06 AM   #3
CharBroiled
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sweet!

almost plug and play. if its cheap enough Ill just sneak it by the wife wonder if she will notice

does the cluster display the ratio?
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Unread 01-24-2008, 09:06 AM   #4
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Yes it does.
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Unread 01-24-2008, 05:14 PM   #5
Jeepster55
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......and yes, i think that it will work too, BUT...as someone else pointed out, what about the instrument cluster indicator? right now it says "L" with a lighted square around it when in the 'Low' position. once you have the 'AutoStick' installed, won't it still say 'Low'?

what do the MK's with AutoStick show as an indicator on the dash? (+-)?

just curious....any AutoStick owners care to comment??????/
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Unread 01-24-2008, 08:51 PM   #6
Gramps
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According to my parts friend (he wants to do this too) this is all that you need:

05273374AC Shifter, if wanted with Jeep logo 68021374AA - $61.64

0ZH70DX9AA Bezel superseded by 0ZH70DX9AB Bezel - $24.26


Wire, terminals, solder, misc. ???

We have run into a problem that we've been working on all night. We are trying this conversion on an FD II that has different programming for the TCM and FD II functions but never had the “standard” programming that would/should have included upshift/downshift signaling to make an actual “gear” selection. I have another very long post that includes some of the information on that. It is over here CVT Operations and Controls

--------------------------------------------------------------

How the Factory would have wired for the AutoStick
They would have used a different Instrument Panel Wiring Harness. The 8 Way Connector for the AutoStick is part of that harness with 4 connections to the instrument panel and 3 for the upshift/downshift switch signal.

If you feel like replacing this harness to get the 3 additional wires this is what you will need to do:
Take your VIN to the dealer and find the harness used on it now. This part number will have a descriptions list as part of the listing. Then have them print out your “Build Information Sheet” that lists all of the options on your MK.

Example:
The harness called for on mine is 5084180AB and shows options [CG1, GWG, DHD, AJV]

If I did not have the AutoStick the harness would have been 5084177AB with options [CG1, GWG, AJV].
Notice the lack of the DHD (AutoStick) or any other transmission code such as [CVT].

Once you have your codes just add DHD to it and get the correct harness, tear apart your dash and have at it.

In my example, my harness also includes:
AJV – Driver Convenience Group
CG1 – Next Generation Multistage Front Air Bags
DHD – AutoStick® Automatic Transmission
GWG – Power Express Open/Close Sunroof


The DYI way to add the three wires necessary to make the AutoStick work are:

Obtain the 8 Way through the dealer when it’s available. Right now the dealers listing calls for “Wiring (repair) Kit, AutoStick, 8 Way Connector – MOPAR Package Not Available.”

Now what? Hard wire it. Disconnect the Battery.

1. The 1 & 3 pin locations from your old connector will go to locations 3, 6, & 7 on the bottom of you new shifter. Keep in mind that the image of the connector shown is a mirror image of the bottom of your new shifter. Yes, you will have to slice or jumper a 3rd wire (upshift/downshift switch signal) to make all of these ground circuits. All of these 20 ga Black/Yellow ground wires are spliced together at S217 (it doesn’t matter where that is) so it doesn’t matter which goes to where.

2. Connect the wire from your old #2 pin, 20 ga, Orange/Grey to the new #4 location.

3. Connect the old #4 pin, 20 ga, Brown/Yellow to the new #8 location.

This has now duplicated your original circuits so that it will still function as a standard CVT.

Additional wiring: How you run the wires is entirely up to you.

You already did the ground wire for the upshift/downshift circuits in step 1.

4. Connect a 20 ga wire (factory was Dark Green/Light Green) from the #1 location of the new shifter and run it up to the #10 location of the TCM C2, Light Gray, 24 Way Connector. This is your upshift signal.

5. Connect a 20 ga wire (factory was Yellow/Dark Green) from the #5 location on the shifter and run it up to the #12 location of the TCM C2, Light Gray, 24 Way Connector. This is your Downshift signal.

Reconnect the battery and the Instrument Panel will read via the TCM that you have added the new circuits and display the AutoStick functions as necessary. This indicator is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.

Each time the cluster is disconnected from battery current for more than about five minutes, it must configure itself for the automatic transmission type that is in the vehicle once it is reconnected to battery current. The instrument cluster circuitry operates the gear selector indicator to provide the following features: see
1autostickshiftlever.jpg   2nonautostickshiftlever.jpg   3autostickwiring.jpg   4non-autostick-wiring.jpg  
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Unread 01-24-2008, 08:53 PM   #7
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I was really surprised that this connector wasn’t mounted directly to a PCB. This does make it easier. Why they used this non-standard color coding is beyond me! These types of pins take a special remover that can be purchased at an computer electrical supply store, maybe even a Radio Shack. That’s just in case you wanted to use the old plug for the 4 center connections and then only have to splice in to connect pins 1, 7 & 8. Just an option.

I would create pigtails for each wire, staggering where you splice in so that you don’t end up with a fat bundle in one spot. Give yourself about an 18” or so lead just for working room in by the consol, staggering your splices on that part of the harness, too. You can cut the excess off as needed. If you solder in pigtails this way you can unsolder them later when the connector becomes available and uses some “Liquid Electrical Tape” for a sanitary installation. Soldering also ensures the 5V supply needed for operation. I would also get some spiral wrap from your local parts store. That’s just me; I’m pretty anal about my electrical connections. Do whatever works best for you!

Connections:

3, 6 & 7 are all redundant grounds going to the same S217 Splice and then to the G200 ground connection on the right side of the dash.

Tie #1 Black from shift assembly to # 1 Green/Light Green for up shift.
#2 OPEN
Tie #3 from shift assembly to ground Red #7 for shift lamp and trans-lock solenoid.
Tie #4 Yellow from shift assembly to # 4 Orange/Gray for shift lamp.
Tie #5 Blue from shift assembly to # 5 Yellow/Dark Green for down shift.
Tie #6/7 Duplicate Grounds to the 2 White Grounds.
Tie #8 Red from shift assembly to # 8 Brown/ Yellow for trans-lock solenoid.
8.jpg   8pin.jpg   tcm-location.jpg  
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Unread 01-24-2008, 08:54 PM   #8
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And the 24 Pin Light Gray 24 pin connectot of the TCM.
tcm2-24-pin.jpg   tcm-2b.jpg   tcm-2a.jpg  
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Unread 01-24-2008, 09:04 PM   #9
Jeepster55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps

Each time the cluster is disconnected from battery current for more than about five minutes, it must configure itself for the automatic transmission type that is in the vehicle once it is reconnected to battery current. The instrument cluster circuitry operates the gear selector indicator to provide the following features: see
so "Gramps", are you saying that after the installation of the 'AutoStick' shifter and wiring and the disconnecting of the battery, that the cluster will then read the same as if it came with AutoStick?
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Unread 01-24-2008, 09:28 PM   #10
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Yup, that's what the book says and why there is no special "AutoStick" programming. But with what's going on with the CVT2L, the FD II set up may not include that part of the programming at all. It was kinda expecting that but it's still disappointing. Can you find out for us why the TCM is different for the FD II than the others? This is the listing for '07:

MODULE, Transmission Control
05094622AA [DAW] CVT2L
05094621AH [DAV] CVT2
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Unread 01-25-2008, 06:56 AM   #11
CharBroiled
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Gramps, thanks for the info! gotta save all that and print it out.

Im still trying to wrap my brain around it. need more coffee

but.. I still cant figure out how the computer figures out if its an autoshift or not.. there are now 3 more leads.. +, - and ground for the +/- switches. other than that there seems to be no difference? seems to me there should be another signal wire.. something like "if this pin is grounded, its autostick, if not grounded its regular." maybe Im missing something. or maybe it reads the presence of +/- ground pin and uses that?

as for the FD II programming differing from FD I (it is a different tranny with the extra ratio capability so different programming makes sense), did any FD II CVT2Ls come with factory autostick? from the other post on CVT operation it looks like the FD II only has a "L" mode. if no factory FD II autosticks were made or planned for the "what shifter do I have" check would never be needed or programmed for.

still reading and still trying to understand

one other thing though, and since the wife has the patriot at work I cant check now, but as Jeepster55 said, I could of swore that my gear display had a hardwired "L" as the last indicator, it didnt look like it was capable of displaying numbers. Ill check again tonight.

Gramps, thanks a ton!

EDIT: if its this easy I wounder how long before steering wheel paddle shifters come out hehe. might give up the steering wheel audio controls and use them to shift
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Last edited by CharBroiled; 01-25-2008 at 07:09 AM..
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Unread 01-25-2008, 12:50 PM   #12
Gramps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharBroiled
Gramps, thanks for the info! gotta save all that and print it out.

Im still trying to wrap my brain around it. need more coffee

but.. I still cant figure out how the computer figures out if its an autoshift or not.. there are now 3 more leads.. +, - and ground for the +/- switches. other than that there seems to be no difference? seems to me there should be another signal wire.. something like "if this pin is grounded, its autostick, if not grounded its regular." maybe Im missing something. or maybe it reads the presence of +/- ground pin and uses that?
That is controlled primarily by the TCM in conjunction with CAN Communications, ECM and TIPM. When the dash is reconnected to a power supply, after being disconnected for 5 minutes, it reprogrammes itself for the correct display via having the extra wires connected to the TCM. Those wires are the only thing that tell the TCM if you have AutoStick or not. There are no mechanical differences between them. The programming is contained in the onboard modules for both the AutoStick and standard versions of the CVTs. The signals from the AutoStick only activates the internal valves/solenoids inside the CVT.
Quote:
as for the FD II programming differing from FD I (it is a different tranny with the extra ratio capability so different programming makes sense), did any FD II CVT2Ls come with factory autostick? from the other post on CVT operation it looks like the FD II only has a "L" mode. if no factory FD II autosticks were made or planned for the "what shifter do I have" check would never be needed or programmed for.
No CVT2Ls have ever had the AutoStick option.

Quote:
still reading and still trying to understand

one other thing though, and since the wife has the patriot at work I cant check now, but as Jeepster55 said, I could of swore that my gear display had a hardwired "L" as the last indicator, it didnt look like it was capable of displaying numbers. Ill check again tonight.
The Transmission Indicator is explained and shown on the other thread. The last frame on the pattern can actually display 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 & L as needed. Just above the pictures on post #3 over here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=511549
Quote:
Gramps, thanks a ton!

EDIT: if its this easy I wounder how long before steering wheel paddle shifters come out hehe. might give up the steering wheel audio controls and use them to shift
The Mitsubishi Outlander already has that kind of set up.
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Unread 01-25-2008, 12:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepster55
so "Gramps", are you saying that after the installation of the 'AutoStick' shifter and wiring and the disconnecting of the battery, that the cluster will then read the same as if it came with AutoStick?
Or said another way: All of the CVT2s contain the programming for the AutoStick. It is electronically deactivated because the wires aren't connected to the TCM and you don't have the shifter to initiate the signals.
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MK Skid Plate fasteners for sale posts 68 & 69

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Unread 01-25-2008, 02:40 PM   #14
CharBroiled
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps
Or said another way: All of the CVT2s contain the programming for the AutoStick. It is electronically deactivated because the wires aren't connected to the TCM and you don't have the shifter to initiate the signals.
I still wonder how, as ground is ground and both shifters switches arent "on" when the computer checks...

can you check to see if the autostick switches are normally open? or normally closed. if they are normally closed then the tcm could see that and assume the autostick.

Im thinking of what I would need for paddle shifters. I need to know exactly how to emulate the stock autostick switches.
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Unread 01-25-2008, 02:53 PM   #15
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The only conclution that I can come to on that is that it's done as part of a system check when you first turn the key, I don't know for sure. I'll look into the Normally on/off.
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