Wish me luck-lift going on tomorrow! - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 11:45 AM
222Doc
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the lift will not change the toe in. What ever it was it is still. you could lift it 10 feet if possible and the toe would be the same. as for the Y pipe. did you grind off the button and loosen the clamp?

As long as the shocks and or extension are no more than +2.25 in added drop over stock it will not hit the drive line.


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post #17 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 11:49 AM
krawler510
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I've seen a few people with newer JKs fight that upper shock bolt and do some cutting .

So far the quickest actually goes to my buddy who loosened a few bolt mount bolts and just jacked the body up enough to get it together. 10 minutes total. Pretty cool.

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post #18 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 12:01 PM
wilgeno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfrancis View Post
I have read some place that there is something tricky with the passenger front shock installation. Anyone remember this care to elaborate?
It's a tight fit to get to the top nut, but the Teraflex kit I bought came with a custom tool to get in there and git'er done.

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post #19 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
Mfrancis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
the lift will not change the toe in. What ever it was it is still. you could lift it 10 feet if possible and the toe would be the same. as for the Y pipe. did you grind off the button and loosen the clamp?

As long as the shocks and or extension are no more than +2.25 in added drop over stock it will not hit the drive line.
You may be correct, however I made the mistake of turning the tie rod adjustment instead of drag link. Does anyone know what the range is with the measure the front of the tire then the rear of the tire method? I'm looking through the threads I searched, but haven't come across it yet.

Black 2014 JKU Sport S, 6 speed manual, 3.73 rear end, 2.5" AEV Dualsport XT w/ Bilstein 5100s, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler A/T, Rubicon rock rails, front grill mesh mod, Jeep door sill guards, matte black Jeep grill emblem, matte black exhaust, Synrgy upper and lower bolt swap(highly recommend), tires pending...
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post #20 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 12:45 PM
RockyClymer
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1/8 in toe in is good. So the measurement at the front of the tire should be 1/4 in less than at rear of tire.

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post #21 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 12:56 PM
krawler510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockyClymer
1/8 in toe in is good. So the measurement at the front of the tire should be 1/4 in less than at rear of tire.
Your saying to toe each tire in 1/8"? Sounds like a lot to me. I've gone with 1/8" total.

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post #22 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krawler510 View Post
Your saying to toe each tire in 1/8"? Sounds like a lot to me. I've gone with 1/8" total.
You are correct. 1/8" TOTAL.

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post #23 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
Mfrancis
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From where my measuring points were (center-ish tread groove), my measurements were 61 1/2 in the rear and 61 7/16 in the front. That is the 1/16 difference I want, correct? I also got the steering wheel straight and the esp finally shut up

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post #24 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Pics of the install:

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Black 2014 JKU Sport S, 6 speed manual, 3.73 rear end, 2.5" AEV Dualsport XT w/ Bilstein 5100s, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler A/T, Rubicon rock rails, front grill mesh mod, Jeep door sill guards, matte black Jeep grill emblem, matte black exhaust, Synrgy upper and lower bolt swap(highly recommend), tires pending...
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post #25 of 50 Old 11-25-2013, 03:47 AM
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Any pics of the final install done?

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post #26 of 50 Old 11-25-2013, 07:02 AM
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Keep going! Looking good. I love watching build threads. Can't wait for the final pics.

BTW, you should probably remove the boots from the shocks, or if already installed, just take a razor to the boots and remove them. They will trap mud, dirt, sand, etc inside and eventually hurt the seals.

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RK 2.5" Max Travel, Rancho 9000XL shocks, 37" Nittos, 5.38's, RR skids, Warn VR8000-S.
RIPP Gen 2 Stg 2 Supercharger.
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post #27 of 50 Old 11-25-2013, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyTrails
Keep going! Looking good. I love watching build threads. Can't wait for the final pics.

BTW, you should probably remove the boots from the shocks, or if already installed, just take a razor to the boots and remove them. They will trap mud, dirt, sand, etc inside and eventually hurt the seals.
Bilstein will not warranty shocks without boots so that's a bad idea. I had one warrantied due to a seal failure and AEV replaced it right away, after they saw a picture of it with a boot!
The boots have drains on them anyway. If rocks hit the shafts without a boot and pit them, that will destroy the seals.
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post #28 of 50 Old 11-25-2013, 08:49 AM
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Good to know, thanks!
Disregard my last post, in that case. Keep them on!

2008 2-dr Rubicon, auto,
RK 2.5" Max Travel, Rancho 9000XL shocks, 37" Nittos, 5.38's, RR skids, Warn VR8000-S.
RIPP Gen 2 Stg 2 Supercharger.
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post #29 of 50 Old 11-25-2013, 09:41 AM
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This problem with the front passenger side shock must be 12 and up specific, on our 07-09s there is enough room to put a box end wrench on the top nut. The factory shock body has another nut at the base of the stem to hold the shock from rotating while you loosen the nut.

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post #30 of 50 Old 11-25-2013, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfrancis View Post
Those poor brakelines!

Also not sure on the routing you have on the front brake lines. Do you have it going around the front of the shock? I cant remember where mine are routed but it would be bad if there was binding there.
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