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Unread 11-22-2013, 06:23 PM   #1
Mfrancis
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Wish me luck-lift going on tomorrow!

Well I'll be tackling my first major mod tomorrow. I'm going to be installing the 2.5 AEV lift. I've had it for three weeks and it's been killing me, finally I have the time. Any tips, gripes, or things you would have done differently when installing this kit are highly welcome. The directions seem pretty straight forward, but I'm sure someone noticed something they did or wish they had done differently.

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Black 2014 JKU Sport S, 6 speed manual, 3.73 rear end, 2.5" AEV Dualsport XT w/ Bilstein 5100s, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler A/T, Rubicon rock rails, front grill mesh mod, Jeep door sill guards, matte black Jeep grill emblem, matte black exhaust, Synrgy upper and lower bolt swap(highly recommend), tires pending...
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Unread 11-22-2013, 07:07 PM   #2
HappyTrails
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Good luck! Read the instructions twice, wrench once.
Lay out everything, make sure you have all the parts necessary before you tear apart the Jeep. Oh, and make sure you have beer, pizza and another vehicle handy to take you to the parts store if you need extra tools.
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Unread 11-22-2013, 07:38 PM   #3
AlbertaJeeper
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One thing to be careful of is the E brake cable on the back when you drop your rear axle down. You need to undo a bolt on the body so it will have the length to drop. Other than that, just make sure it is on the jack stands good and take your time. Good luck and make sure to post some pictures, I'm thinking of upgrading to that in the spring!
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Unread 11-22-2013, 10:03 PM   #4
Psycho-X-Jeep
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Good luck. This forum is just a click away if you get in a pickle!
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Unread 11-22-2013, 10:13 PM   #5
Mfrancis
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This may sound stupid, but just for clarification purposes, when I jack the back up should it be in 4lo and in gear? Chocked as well, of course.
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Unread 11-22-2013, 10:34 PM   #6
MoonyJohn
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Are you parked on a hill? I wouldnt worry about it but its not a bad idea. I usually use two jacks on the frame, and then my pump jack on the axle so I can mess with the droop of the axle. I actually have two pump jacks so it came in handy putting the front together. But always make sure you put jacks on the furthest front or back point on the frame. Maybe rest your tire down below incase an accident happens. Also read the instructions step by step, dont skip any. I found sometimes I would get carried away and start doing something I should have been doing, and lost time doing so. Total time it took me was around 6-7 hours even after torquing everything and test driving it.

What will save you the most time is how clean the underneath of your jeep is too, its nice to not have crap fall in your eyes, or on your face. Wear safety glasses and gloves!

Your going to love it!

Stock



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Unread 11-23-2013, 06:15 AM   #7
Mfrancis
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I have read some place that there is something tricky with the passenger front shock installation. Anyone remember this care to elaborate?
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Unread 11-23-2013, 06:23 AM   #8
brianjw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfrancis
I have read some place that there is something tricky with the passenger front shock installation. Anyone remember this care to elaborate?
Yeah it is. I cut up the plastic bottom of the battery box to get to mine.
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Unread 11-23-2013, 07:28 AM   #9
Vin
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http://youtu.be/vz-R5E-NPQg

This is there Install video on YouTube. I watched it several times and even took out a tablet and paused and played as I went along with the install.
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Unread 11-23-2013, 07:30 AM   #10
Vin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfrancis View Post
I have read some place that there is something tricky with the passenger front shock installation. Anyone remember this care to elaborate?
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjw View Post
Yeah it is. I cut up the plastic bottom of the battery box to get to mine.
I was able to get a dremel with a cutting wheel to clear enough room for the shock to be bolted up. I guess they put the battery tray in after the suspension is in
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Unread 11-23-2013, 07:52 AM   #11
HappyTrails
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I had to remove the battery tray (a few bolts) to get an allen head wrench into there. Yeah, they must have put that in after the suspension was bolted in.
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2008 2-dr Rubicon, auto,
RK 2.5" Max Travel lift, Fox 2.0 shocks, 37" Nittos, 5.38's, River Raider skids, Warn VR8000-S.
RIPP Gen 2 Stg 2 Supercharger.
Re-inventing the circle and straight line.
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Unread 11-23-2013, 09:39 AM   #12
SoK66
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I put one on a club member's '10 JKUR about six months ago. I've done quite a few suspensions and in relative terms the AEV 2.5 was a snap to install. However, all the same safety precautions apply, GOOD jack stands, good service jacks to raise & lower the vehicle & axles, etc., etc. Having a second set of hands is a major time saver, too. If you have access to a good air compressor and a 1/2 impact wrench for loosening and in some cases removing the track bar and control arm bolts they will be a major time & effort saver. The rear track bar has to be completely removed and a new track bar tower and bar installed. Although the factory manual says the bolts are 125 ft lbs, I found them to be more like 150+ and can be a major PITA to remove even with a long breaker bar. A stout impact wrench will make short work of 'em coming off. Be sure to put the final torque on the track bars and control arms with the vehicle on the ground and FULLY settled using a torque wrench. Don;t use the impact and guess the torque. The instructions were very good (not like some others I've used). Just follow in sequence and you can't go wrong. It pays to get VERY organized up front. Get your tool needs sorted and lay the parts out on a table or bench before you start so you're not scrounging through boxes & bags as you go. I did this with her husband's help in about 6 hours start to finish with a pizza break.

We opted to do the AEV front control arm drop brackets as well, which is just another $100 or so. Well worth the upgrade to get the angles right up front and a significant ride & handling upgrade as well. Another thought, if you plan on adding a rock bumper & winch of any weight, depending upon total weight add a 1/2" to 1" spacer to the front springs. it'll save you the effort of having to pull them off later to level the rig. My frind's husband added a Warn Powerplant and it needed a 1" spacer.

Although my JK is set up with a Teraflex 4" long arm I'm very bullish on this AEV 2.5" kit for people that need a solid daily driver and want to fit 35s. After we installed it she had 33" MTR/Ks installed on the stock rims with spacers. She came to Moab with us and ran Behind The Rocks without missing a beat. Here it is with the lift & winch installed, but before she got the MTRs.

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Unread 11-24-2013, 09:29 AM   #13
nhfd01
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Any updates on the install?
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Unread 11-24-2013, 09:45 AM   #14
Mfrancis
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Well the lift is on! It went relatively well, longer than I expected, though. I did waste almost two hours trying to get the exhaust spacers in. I couldn't get the y-pipe to budge rearward, so I cut my losses and moved on. As long as I don't go off road until I figure it out, I should be ok. I also had to trim the bottom of the battery box so I could get the passenger front shock on. The steering wheel is still off some and I need to figure out the correct toe-in alignment numbers to set that. The esp kept kicking on when I drove it home last night until I turned it off, so hopefully I can get it fine tuned today. I have some pics I'll post later, not too many though.
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Unread 11-24-2013, 11:21 AM   #15
MoonyJohn
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For now you can loosen the drag link up near the pitman arm, and get your steering wheel aligned yourself just so that the ESP doesnt keep coming on. Just have someone in the cab telling you when its perfectly centered while your twisting the draglink down low. Takes less than 5-10 minutes to do.

But congrats on the install! How do you like the ride? I also opted for the GEO brackets and love them.
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