[surfer459]

I got my 6.5" wireless driving lights in today and have a wiring question. The wiring harness has a wireless reciever that picks up the signal from the remote switch. On this wireless reciever it has a power cable that needs to be connected to a power source that is on when the vehicle is on. So how do I find a good wire to connect this too for power? Or does anyone have a good suggestion of a wire to splice into? Thanks for the help, my weaknesses are wiring and transmissions!

[51M38]

Two alternatives (that I am aware of):

Quadratech sells a splice kit with instructions to connect under the dash to the aux power circuit. This is what I used for my Warn lights.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/96080_98.htm

If you do not have heated seats, and have a recent JK, there is a point to connect in the power distribution/fuse box used for the heated seat relay.

[surfer459]

The instructions say to just wire into a power source that is on when the ignition is on, as to not have a amp draw with the Jeep off. I would like to know how I find a wire that has power or not without any wiring diagrams?

[herath]

I have some Warns coming too.Is there a power source in the under hood fuse box so I don't have to run a wire through the dash.

[RockyClymer]

I do not believe there is an ignition switched power source under the hood that is readily available. The one under the dash is tied into the CANBUS system- but not sure what the amp rating is. I know on some JKs without some options there are some empty fuse spaces in the fuse module - might be able to plug a fuse in there and tie into it somehow. You could check and see if the ignition switch turns on power to one side of the fuse holder and this may be a quick solution - put a fuse in and then figure out how to attach to it.

[surfer459]

A friend suggested a voltage tester to find a wire with power after ignition. The recievers only purpose is to pick up a signal from the remote to turn the lights on so Im sure it requires very little power. When I figure it out I will make sure and post what I did, unless I get a better suggestion of course!

[51M38]

The refererenced kit from Quadratech ties in under the dash without affecting the CANbus system. Amp draw is not an issue; you are not powering the lighting, only the controller. Surfer: a basic multimeter, or just a 12V test probe (any auto parts store) will tell you if the connection is switched with the ignition or not . The tap kit I referenced connects to the 12V aux outlet, which is switched.

[herath]

Originally Posted by surfer459

A friend suggested a voltage tester to find a wire with power after ignition. The recievers only purpose is to pick up a signal from the remote to turn the lights on so Im sure it requires very little power. When I figure it out I will make sure and post what I did, unless I get a better suggestion of course!

One advantage of the Warn suggested in other threads is it can be switched on with the vehicle off so is this correct or can it only be used when the vehicle is running?Put another way, does it function like other remotes[like remote starters].

[surfer459]

Originally Posted by herath

One advantage of the Warn suggested in other threads is it can be switched on with the vehicle off so is this correct or can it only be used when the vehicle is running?Put another way, does it function like other remotes[like remote starters].

If you wired the reciever power to the battery then yes, it would work with the car on or off.

[RockyClymer]

Wouldn't that leave the receiver on all the time and add to parasitic current drain?
To clarify my earlier post - I meant the tie in was controlled by the CANBUS in that the iginition on/off
goes through the confuser and then turns the voltage on or off.

[herath]

I may have to rethink the Warn and go to another system ;at least I wouldn't need the wiring kit.

[surfer459]

Originally Posted by RockyClymer

Wouldn't that leave the receiver on all the time and add to parasitic current drain?
To clarify my earlier post - I meant the tie in was controlled by the CANBUS in that the iginition on/off
goes through the confuser and then turns the voltage on or off.

Off course there would be parasitic drag, which is why I dont want to wire it directly to the battery. I was just saying it could be done.

[herath]

Originally Posted by 51M38

Two alternatives (that I am aware of):

Quadratech sells a splice kit with instructions to connect under the dash to the aux power circuit. This is what I used for my Warn lights.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/96080_98.htm

If you do not have heated seats, and have a recent JK, there is a point to connect in the power distribution/fuse box used for the heated seat relay.

Will the heated seat connection point interfere with CANBUS? How do you make the connection?

[51M38]

Originally Posted by herath

Will the heated seat connection point interfere with CANBUS? How do you make the connection?

Check out:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/w...unted-1118001/

It is a good discussion of this exact subject. I have used the tap shown on this link in my 2011 Rubicon without any CANbus issues. The CANbus system monitors some circuits for high/low current (amps) limits to detect problems. Which circuits are monitored and what the limits are, I don’t know (if anyone knows of such a reference, please tell me). Most people here are doing trial & error connections and reporting what works. That is the reason why the aux power tap works, there are no apparent limits, except for the maximum wattage.

I used the tap that Green Monster suggested, a Buss Fuse part from Advance Auto, as well as the Quadratech tap kit-both work.

[herath]

Thanks for the link;I think this solved the problem.