wiring help please - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 41 Old 02-22-2017, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
Cavi
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wiring help please

so I bought a harness for my led fog lights, this is a picture of the diagram for the wireing. I understand that the red wire that comes out of the fuse goes to the battery, but the other red wire that is comming off the relay between the switch and the relay, where does that go? Does it go to a switched source? If so where is the best place ot find this? FYI I bought one of these and was going to use one of the switches sources to power this harness. http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/70103
This being the case could I just run the hot from the switched fuse on the painless block to my rocker switch and then back to the lights, and obviously run a ground along with it to the lights and just skip most of the harness?

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post #2 of 41 Old 02-23-2017, 02:40 PM
cranbiz
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You don't want to power that block from the switch. You have the potential to draw way to much current thru the switch if you power the block thru it. I would connect the block to the battery thru the circuit breaker they provided. You can add a fuse tap to the switched ignition position in the TIPM for switched 12V. You use the switched 12V to power relay's to do the heavy hauling, keeping the current from the TIPM under an amp.

I believe it's the M7 position in the TIPM and it's got 3 holes in that spot for either 12V in Run and 12V (run and Acc) --X should be run only and X-- should be run acc.

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post #3 of 41 Old 02-23-2017, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
Cavi
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you lost me or I lost you. The painless fuse block gets hooked directly to the battery and it has a power from the relay that goes ot a switched power source in the jeeps fuse block so that the three fuses in the block act as switched powersource so they only work when the car is on. I was going to power the two 45w leds from the battery and the switch from a relay powered from the painless block. From what I understand that is the purpose of the painless block, so not to overload the main jeep fuse block. Did I miss something? At this point I plan on skippint the whole harness that I posted the diagram of and just running power from the painless block to rocker switch and from there to the two leds. What thickness wire for two 45 watt leds? 14 aug or 16?
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post #4 of 41 Old 02-24-2017, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavi View Post
you lost me or I lost you. The painless fuse block gets hooked directly to the battery and it has a power from the relay that goes ot a switched power source in the jeeps fuse block so that the three fuses in the block act as switched powersource so they only work when the car is on. I was going to power the two 45w leds from the battery and the switch from a relay powered from the painless block. From what I understand that is the purpose of the painless block, so not to overload the main jeep fuse block. Did I miss something? At this point I plan on skippint the whole harness that I posted the diagram of and just running power from the painless block to rocker switch and from there to the two leds. What thickness wire for two 45 watt leds? 14 aug or 16?
You cannot run the load for the lights through the switch, it will melt. You need to run the load for the lights through the relay and your diagram says they provided a 30 amp fuse for the lights. If your fuse block is like mine it is only rated for 20 amp fuses.

Your best bet will be to take power from the battery (through the provided fuse) to the relay. Then power from the painless wiring fuse block to the switch. Use one of the switched fuses so your lights won't be left on if you shut the Jeep off. Change out the 20 amp fuse in the block for a 1 or 3 amp fuse, most relays need less than 1 amp to trigger them and you don't want to melt the switch or wiring to it.

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post #5 of 41 Old 02-24-2017, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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sorry I had edited my post but I guess it did not save it. I will be running a relay, the block will power the switch and the load will come from the battery, however I do think the other way would work as 90w led would be pulling less than 10 amps. That harness is rated at 30 amps as it is designed to handle up to 300w, and I think the switch could handle 10 amps, but to be safe I am going to use a relay either way
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post #6 of 41 Old 02-24-2017, 02:12 PM
rubicon17
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why are you even using a harness? the led fogs dont even draw half the power of the garbage oem fog lights. do you have a link to the lights you have?

edit: just seen your pic you posted, those are not really fog lights up that high lol, more like auxiliary lights. you want fogs low as typically fog is a few feet off the ground, all those will do are blind you like the headlights do. if you took out the oem fogs those will work fine on the oem wiring, they still draw less than the oem bulbs do. the way led work and are measured they do not draw 45 watts.
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post #7 of 41 Old 02-24-2017, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon17
why are you even using a harness? the led fogs dont even draw half the power of the garbage oem fog lights. if you took out the oem fogs those will work fine on the oem wiring, they still draw less than the oem bulbs do. the way led work and are measured they do not draw 45 watts.
The problem is the CANBUS. If the draw is not the same between OEM and aftermarket lights the electronics will go bat**** crazy. The LEDs have to draw exactly the same as OEM, no more, no less. If an LED draws less, the system thinks a bulb is burnt out. The designated harness has resistors to mimic the draw of OEM.

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post #8 of 41 Old 02-24-2017, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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rubicon 17, yes I realize they are aux lights not fog lights. Trust me I know the difference. I grew up in Brazil, and every weekend we would leave Sao Paulo and go down the mountain to a beach city, the twisty mountain road was more often than not fogged in where you could barely make out the car right in front of you. Where I grew up the term fog lights was used for all aux lights just like all bandaids are bandaids even if they are another brand or not really a normal bandaid. FYI I have them mounted on the car and wires run to the battery, still waiting on the harness that will have the switch and relay, but just for kicks I ran my load to the battery tonight, they are awesome!!! Light up about half a football field!!!
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post #9 of 41 Old 02-25-2017, 12:17 AM
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rubicon 17, yes I realize they are aux lights not fog lights. Trust me I know the difference. I grew up in Brazil, and every weekend we would leave Sao Paulo and go down the mountain to a beach city, the twisty mountain road was more often than not fogged in where you could barely make out the car right in front of you. Where I grew up the term fog lights was used for all aux lights just like all bandaids are bandaids even if they are another brand or not really a normal bandaid. FYI I have them mounted on the car and wires run to the battery, still waiting on the harness that will have the switch and relay, but just for kicks I ran my load to the battery tonight, they are awesome!!! Light up about half a football field!!!
that's sweet, cant go wrong with extra light!
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post #10 of 41 Old 02-25-2017, 12:20 AM
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The problem is the CANBUS. If the draw is not the same between OEM and aftermarket lights the electronics will go bat**** crazy. The LEDs have to draw exactly the same as OEM, no more, no less. If an LED draws less, the system thinks a bulb is burnt out. The designated harness has resistors to mimic the draw of OEM.
why not just use these? I hooked some up when I did my led fog lights, a lot of others I read just wired the lights in and said they worked fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #11 of 41 Old 02-25-2017, 04:18 PM
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Those anti flicker doggles are for the headlights.. the fogs don't flicker like the headlights but do require a certain draw. If that power draw is not the the same as the OEM lights it will cause other electrical issues.
Some Jeep fog replacements have a little black control box on the light wiring that replicates OEM power draw.

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post #12 of 41 Old 02-26-2017, 09:04 AM
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bs, they work fine with or without the adapters on fog lights, i know because ive used them for 3 weeks now with no issues. unless you have something drawing 55w+ on each fog circuit you wont have issues, and 45w led dont even draw close to 45w. these are mainly used for the ability to draw full constant voltage for the fogs not to cancel a warning light that was never there. i tried with and without, there is no issue on this circut with lights that draw less power than oem.
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post #13 of 41 Old 02-26-2017, 09:31 AM
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Well good luck to you then. Hope they continue to work for you. Many Others are not so lucky...

^^Jeff^^
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post #14 of 41 Old 02-26-2017, 04:23 PM
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My add on to the fog circuit ran two years before the tipm got tired of dealing with the out of parameter draw... Only cost me 1200 bucks to save 30 $ expense and hour time/ hassle of separate circuit.
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post #15 of 41 Old 02-26-2017, 05:39 PM
rubicon17
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and how did it get tired of it? you have a 2011, weren't the older jk known for tipm problems? i have ran these for hours and hours at night now. it either works or it doesnt. 2 years later could have been anything to the tipm. but you also added on, which could have easily went above and beyond what it is designed for. if he deleted the oem fogs and hooked those lights to the wiring there would be no issues, if he changed the oem to led and installed those, probably still no issues as led doesnt even draw close to what a incandescent bulb does. it should blow a fuse before the tipm fails.
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