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Unread 01-20-2014, 01:58 AM   #46
BruceM1964
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+1 on the thanks for the good thread. I just put a winch on my jeep this weekend, went with steel for the reasons already mentioned here.

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Unread 01-20-2014, 02:12 AM   #47
BruceM1964
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Just curious but my winch came with 125' of 5/16" cable, would it be acceptable to swap it out for 100' of 3/8" cable, or is that a nogo for reasons I do not see.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 08:38 AM   #48
propped1
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Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius View Post
Warn "Spydura." Just to clarify, the threads themselves don't absorb water - but the space between threads hold water. The first wrap on the spool has a red protective liner on it that is also very water absorbing. I noticed rust on my spool and spooled the line off to discover that the spool is nearly always wet and it has gotten rusty. You wouldn't have much trouble with a rusty spool with a well-greased/lubed steel winch line.
My dyneema line says to wind under 500lbs to properly spool. I just got it so I havent had it in water, but if after wheeling, would the spooling under force "wring it out" or would unspooling and letting it sit in the sun for a couple hours dry it out?

I personally would like to see one of the magazines or forums do another winch shootout (last one was 2011 that I can find) and cant find anything about comparing winch lines.

Anybody have a way to do this or know someone who could get their hands on the different lines and equipment to do the test?
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Unread 01-20-2014, 10:16 PM   #49
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Steel for me, with proper maintenance they are great and will last forever the trick is if they get damaged,kinked or fray replace them or results can be deadly. Sadly most people don't bother follow any safety guidelines and that is when things can go bad regardless of what kind of cable you may have. However synthetic is a good option IMO.

Just don't do this, idiots are everywhere and well disguised.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 10:59 PM   #50
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I have an idea, I'll stand ***right here*** in the line of fire while this other idiot hammers on the gas to tow the other idiot out...
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Unread 01-21-2014, 12:34 AM   #51
BruceM1964
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WOW just wow
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Unread 01-21-2014, 02:50 AM   #52
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I saw a synthetic line break on new years day this year. Broke right by the spool and pretty much dropped in place. Very reassuring. Based on where it broke, and knowing the owner is someone that maintains their kit, I would have to guess it overheated from the drum. I believe you can get something to put in line to mitigate this issue and no I am not referring to those abrasion sleeves.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 07:56 AM   #53
propped1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ancientspear View Post
I saw a synthetic line break on new years day this year. Broke right by the spool and pretty much dropped in place. Very reassuring. Based on where it broke, and knowing the owner is someone that maintains their kit, I would have to guess it overheated from the drum. I believe you can get something to put in line to mitigate this issue and no I am not referring to those abrasion sleeves.
This is one of those things that needs to be known... how much of the line was spooled out? was it on the last wrap?
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Unread 01-21-2014, 08:14 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by propped1 View Post

This is one of those things that needs to be known... how much of the line was spooled out? was it on the last wrap?
If it broke at the drum, I'd bet that the rope was coming into contact with a metal edge of the winch mount where the fairlead bolts on (or something else in the vicinity). I've seen this happen a few times.

The easiest way to tell what caused the break is to look at the rope. Unless the entire rope (meaning it's entire diameter) was fuzzy and frayed, it didn't just pull in two. If you get a chance to look at it, you want to look for some strands that are the same length. This is a dead give away that it got up against something and got cut.

When this happens, it will cut evenly until the remaining strands can no longer hold the tension. Then the remaining strands break. Strands that get cut look normal, strands that break get fuzzy and they tend to break at natural weak spots (i.e. not in a nice crisp line).
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Unread 01-21-2014, 10:50 AM   #55
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It was a very heavy load, rescue rig was being pulled no matter what we did. I didn't see it up close but from afar the break looked really frayed, not a clean cut.

Another friend of mine lost his due to a fairlead that shifted out of alignment and cut the line. From what I was told, it dropped straight down too and was simply tied back onto the drum to finish its job.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 12:50 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by ancientspear View Post
It was a very heavy load, rescue rig was being pulled no matter what we did. I didn't see it up close but from afar the break looked really frayed, not a clean cut.

Another friend of mine lost his due to a fairlead that shifted out of alignment and cut the line. From what I was told, it dropped straight down too and was simply tied back onto the drum to finish its job.
They'll all look like a frayed mess until you get up close and personal. It takes less than half of the rope being "cut" before the rest of it gives up. Half or more of the rope will be an honest to goodness tension break (that's what creates the puffed up frayed out of the rope).

The second scenario that you mentioned is a common source of breaks.

Either way, I feel a lot more comfortable with the synthetic. I've used both (and own both now). They both have maintenance that needs to be done and neither scares me, but I prefer the ease of handling and the extra safety factor of the synthetic.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 01:40 PM   #57
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I have to admit after buying my synthetic line and spooling it in using the first time procedure (under load) I was rather surprised how hot the line and the fairlead got, as in, to hot to touch hot. And this was on a straight pull, not from the side.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 01:52 PM   #58
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I have to admit after buying my synthetic line and spooling it in using the first time procedure (under load) I was rather surprised how hot the line and the fairlead got, as in, to hot to touch hot. And this was on a straight pull, not from the side.
The actual line gets that hot? No good.

I've never used it on a planetary other than just spooling it on (I have an 8274). Are you powering out or using your freespool?
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Unread 01-21-2014, 02:45 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by 73azbronco View Post
I have to admit after buying my synthetic line and spooling it in using the first time procedure (under load) I was rather surprised how hot the line and the fairlead got, as in, to hot to touch hot. And this was on a straight pull, not from the side.
What kind of winch? Mine is the Smitty x2o Comp 8K

I just did this with mine and had no heat at all. I parked our Explorer across a long parking lot and attached the hook to the hitch safety chain area with a d ring. I had my gf sit in the Jeep and drag the brake so the winch pulled them closer together while I made sure it spooled properly... figured more than 500lb load as recommended. I touched it periodically on the line and motor because I was curious and had heard things about heat. Also heard that the only time there should be friction is on line "out" with an in drum brake (acts like a parking brake).

Line that is too hot to touch would be heat from the drum and not from the motor. The fairlead could just be hot due to the transfer from the drum as the mounts are right there.

I'm not being a dick here... are you positive you were spooling with the switch engaged "in" and not in "out"? How much load did you have on it and how did you apply it?
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Unread 01-21-2014, 03:07 PM   #60
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All synthetic lines are subject to heat damage that arise from the motor, which then transfers/conducts heat to the spool. Winch manufacturers recommend to vary the pulling time when using a synthetic line, with the amount of heat generated depending on the winch that is used. My Warn 9.5CTI gets pretty hot under a sustained pull, too. It's due to the "locked rotor current" of the DC motor. I've even dumped a bottle of water on it before to cool it off.
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