[COLOR="red"][B]For Sale:[/B][/COLOR] [URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f129/jk-4dr-black-painted-hard-top-1000-a-1541186/"][COLOR="Blue"]2013 4dr JK Painted black Hard Top[/COLOR][/URL] [URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f127/jkur-18-59-springs-shocks-1557427/"][COLOR="Purple"]JKUR 18/59 springs and shocks[/COLOR][/URL]
[SIZE="1"][B]97 TJ:[/B] daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
[B]98 TJ:[/B] Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
[B]06 LJ Rubicon:[/B] mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
[B]13 JKU Rubicon:[/B] Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs[/SIZE]
One thing that has always troubled me with steel line - you gotta grease it and I mean GREASY - but then if it hits the ground all the dirt sticks to it. I used to fleet maint and we had two 15 ton mobile cranes - when certifying (CAL OSHA) one of them the line had been dropped out on silt (setting columns in a San Diego Harbor dockside construction site - the operator goofed and ended up with 100 foot laying on the ground while respooling the blocks) - it failed for the contamination! Had to play out all the line - wash and regrease. I realize thats to pull a 15 ton cert - we certainly don't with our rigs.
But the same problem presents - it hits the ground - dirt (including iron ferrite) gets in the grease - heat gets it to the core strand and vibration causes the grit to burnish the jacket strands.
And on the replace annually - definitely on a rope that's used daily. But if spooled properly and covered from UV - three to five with annual inspection on a rope that's used 8-20 times a year is sufficient as far as my thinking goes...
I prefer rope - at 51 running cable up hill is a bit rough (running ANYTHING uphill gets me gasping) rope is just so much lighter and easier to work with. As far as splinters from stell compared to none from rope - never an issue - ALWAYS use gloves. Even with a rope. That stuff gives nasty rope burns (I saw a friend slip while connecting the rope to tree saver and used the rope to keep from from falling - just the 4 inch slip as he gripped burnt his palm making the rest of the day pretty harsh).
J Wm Bishop EA, ASADE
The wagon should, of course, be as light as possible, but strength should not be sacrificed to lightness, for on any but the regularly traveled roads, the wagon will get many a hard knock...
My synthetic line is the Warn "Spydura" cable... it looks really great when it comes out of the box - all black and shiny with a bright red tag - however after only a short period of time/use I realized that it is just white synthetic rope sprayed with a black color. The strands get stretched, the white portion shows, the black color fades, the rope frays, and it really looks like crap after. Sure, it is still totally functional - however, it just doesn't look the best. So, with that in mind, I'd be more inclined to get another brand that uses a solid synthetic strand color.
Sooo...I guess we need to also discuss which rope is best.
New Jeep: 10th Anniversary Rubicon, Anvil with Red Leather seats
I guess I can see that with mud and or lot of water crossings......
My oil company makes a penetrating 'Moly Chain Lube' that is specifically designed to penetrate into core of steel cables and links/pins on chains!
If exposed to water, steel cable wears out from the inside out....due to rust.
The outside can look 100% and the WLL capacity can be well under 50%!
Drag line cables (in surface mines and sand pits) last 3-5 times longer when regularly lubricated!
Same with high speed chains on farm combines!
Grease in a tube would not be my first choice.
An oil based Penetrating Oil spray or a light weight gear lube, poured on the cable and excess wiped off, would work well.
WRT to grit entering the line... Unless the line is covered when not in use, a fair bit of "road air grit" will hit it (no need for it to touch the ground). When re-spooling, I use the Slick50 spray (somewhat light but also somewhat "sticky" for grit). I leave the cable un-covered. When I go to use it (rotate the drum) I notice that the "front" cable is darker from airborne dirt while the "back" of the drum is lite / clean.
What brand is that?
Mine is Dynemma and appears water proof ...... and it floats!
Warn "Spydura." Just to clarify, the threads themselves don't absorb water - but the space between threads hold water. The first wrap on the spool has a red protective liner on it that is also very water absorbing. I noticed rust on my spool and spooled the line off to discover that the spool is nearly always wet and it has gotten rusty. You wouldn't have much trouble with a rusty spool with a well-greased/lubed steel winch line.
I use the steel cable that came with my Warn 9500ti six years ago. I always use leather gloves when working with it. I have never greased it or sprayed it with penetrating oil. I don't go through a canal with my Jeep, but it does rain a lot down here and floods frequently. I have unspooled it from the winch completely a few times doing a long pull and found no rust on the drum or the cable.
There are a few things about synthetic line that bother me, maybe because of my ignorance or inexperience with them. Number one is, they are not as durable and subject to chaffing, tearing, etc. Secondly, exposure to the sun will cause them to deteriorate and weaken over time. I don't know how much time it would take for it to be significant, but still, the idea of something going bad just sitting there is a turn off to me. Another thing is holding water/staying damp which others have mentioned.
Regarding snapping back in the even of breaking under tension, cable vs. synthetic, I believe some of you guys might be wrong. I was in the navy from 1989-1995 and both ships I was stationed on were undermanned frigates, which means that even though I was a sonar technician, I was still on the back deck handling mooring lines pulling into port and getting under way. We had to routinely watch training videos showing mooring lines made out of nylon and other synthetic materials parting, whipping back, and cutting men's legs off or sometimes their bodies in half. That makes me not trust a synthetic line the same as I would a steel cable, probably even more so. I am not sure what these synthetic winch lines are made of, because the word synthetic can mean so many different materials. If it's kevlar, then it's fine. If it's nylon, it's very dangerous.
For what it's worth, long ago, the navy used mooring lines made out of hemp which were much safer but had a number of undesirable properties. Sailors would also sometimes attempt to smoke the rope to get high. I believe the navy has since switched over to kevlar mooring lines which are stronger and safer than the stuff they were using while I was in the service.
__________________ 2014 JKU Copperhead Pearl
Too many mods to list. Too awesome to sell.
A mooring line for a navy frigate has a considerable amount more tension/danger/hazard than a 10,000 lb synthetic winch line. Regardless, you still have a point - any cable under tension requires an amount of caution. I use the blanket on my lines whether synthetic or steel.