What has to be done to a jeep in order to get into deep water? I am talking hood high streams and such. I have the AEV snorkel, but need to know what else to do.
The differentials have a breather tube that comes off the axle. I can't remember where they are in stock form, but you can just add hose to extend them up higher so you don't get water mixed in with the differential fluid. IIRC, the rear one is along the frame near the passenger side tire.
Water proof alternator. Electronics are going to be crazy hard to waterproof. Everywhere you see wires... make sure that you check where they go, and make sure water wont be able to penetrate them. Also... just because you have a snorkle doesnt mean that the air intake is waterproof. Make sure it is!
It will be hard to prevent water from getting in the cab so make sure you have some drainage holes in the floorboard for water to escape..... Good luck.
Top Gear rocks, that episode rocked, and now you've made me remember how much I miss Iceland...if you even sort of like the outdoors, it's a must-visit place.
Of course, the entire country is bankrupt right now...
On the note about fording though, one thing not mentioned is to make sure you spot the area you want to ford before you drive through it. No matter how well sealed the electrics are or what kind of snorkel you have, currents get surprisingly strong, and hidden drop offs can be brutal.
Not trying to lecture - we just got through some massive flooding a couple weeks ago, and you forget how tough Mother Nature can get. Everytime it floods out here, some idiot thinks his 4x4 is invincible...right up until the time some hidden log flips him sideways and he drowns in the current.
But for moderate trail runs, the comments here about protecting the electrics and sealing things are spot on.
Well, I got an ARB snorkel for my TJ, and I can confidently tell you that on a TJ the stock airbox is NOT waterproof. For me, everything I installed for the snorkel worked great, but the point at which the two halves of the airbox meet left me with H2O in my 4.0 (which still runs strong btw.) So you most likely need to find or make some kind of gasket to help seal your airbox. Some suggestions I've recieved: expanding foam, RTV sealant, Glue (which was a joke,) but the problem is that most of the suggestions would make it so that every time you change your air filter, you need to reseal the airbox.
Hope this helps, good luck, and take it from someone who pretty much sank in a lake: it's most likely just not worth the risk to go through really deep water.
Im not sure how young he is but when I was around 16-18 I thought anything with a snrokle could traverse a river!!! (Thanks a lot Pierce Brosnan in Dante's Peak!)
Maybe he just hasnt thought this through at all..... better to ask questions first :2thumbsup:
I want to have more water fording capability than the stock jeep has. Last summer I when into a ditch and the water came half way up my headlites. This is my first jeep and I just like playing around with it. Oh, I have thought this through, and happen to be 58 years old.
Never too late to start. Just had to wait till the kids were done with college to be able to afford new toys.
I want to have more water fording capability than the stock jeep has. Last summer I when into a ditch and the water came half way up my headlites. This is my first jeep and I just like playing around with it. Oh, I have thought this through, and happen to be 58 years old.
Never too late to start. Just had to wait till the kids were done with college to be able to afford new toys.
#2 If you ignore #1 you had better not be running a CAI or you will learn exactly what hydrolock means.
#3 Extend all breathers.. both diffs, transfer case and transmission (manual)
#4 Dielectric grease on all major low electrical plugs, ie E-Disco plug
#5 Do not install the cool Jeep door sill gaurds that double stick on your door sills. http://www.quadratec.com/products/13113_202.htm These will cause your door gasket not to fully seal against the body allowing water to pour in.
Ask me how I know.
#5 Do not shift (manual) while in deep water if at all possible.
#6 Pump your brakes when you get out.. chances are the first pump won't do much.
#7 Check your fluids when you get home. The factory axles seals tend to let water in especially in the front. If it looks at all milky, change the fluid.
I regret not going with a snorkel but with a cai instead. In one particularly deep hole I went in on the drivers side closer to the middle of what I thought was just another run of the mill puddle but thankfully had thought about my intake and kept the right side closer to the edge. My drivers side headlight was underwater and the water came up to my window. Thankfully the passengers side was only tire deeo or it would have been painfully expensive. I take my jeep wheeling and since we have little rocks I go puddle jumping at every chance we get. Agree with everything on this post so far. Be careful and go with someone with a really long strap or winch.
My first surprise........just a few days after I bought it. Luckily no damage though. But there was standing water in the air box.
I had a wave wash up over my hood and onto my windshield. The whole front end was submerged for a second or two while I tried to climb up the edge of the hole.
Could you just get a hose and some simple green to get the mud out? Then some F21 tire shine for the hoses and stuff...its what we do on our race cars haha
Ive tried a lot of different things, but not degreaser. Its also on my top too. Whatever kind of mud it was....it was nasty. I have yet to find anything that stains like that stuff did.
I did use something from STP called OOMPH that did a better job than anything else I tried on both the top and the flares as the mud stained the hell out of everything. We(pep) will be carrying it in all stores March 2nd, not sure where else it is available but it would be in the same area as simple green in automotive stores if they carry it.
Most of the exterior electrical connections are already sealed. The only one I've personally come across that wasn't is the e-disco. Get some silicone grease from your local electric supply to seal that. I'm sure there are more but I don't know which ones.
The axle vents extend from the axles up to around the top of the tire height. I extended my front up to the top of the firewall. The rear I took up into the body cavity just in front of the tail light where I zip tied it as high as it would go.
The t-case vent out comes the top left side of the t-case near the electrical plug and extends to an unreachable spot just behind the intake manifold area. The auto trans vent comes out of the trans right next to where the dipstick comes out and extends to where the t-case vent goes and is also unreachable at the top. The axle vent check valves can be reused but you may as well buy new ones for the t-case and transmission if you can't get the old ones out. Mine cost $3.50 each at the dealer. Add a roll of 5/16" fuel line and you're good to go vent wise.
Another thing to do is to keep your door seals clean. That really helps to slow down water incursion.
If you have to go through a deep puddle, keep the passenger side on the shallow side because thats where the air box is.
Some people install a disconnect switch to turns their radiator fan off during deep water crossings to prevent the fan from screwing itself into the radiator. I haven't had that problem yet but it's on my todo list
ok hey guys, so say your going thru in 4lo in second gear standard. So you get stuck. Ive been driving stick since i started driving( only 4 years) But i understand stick well. So say your stuck, put into nuetral, start it up without the clutch. But how do you get it into gear without applying the cluth to get out?? I heard we have no clutch start in 4lo, but i dont get how to take off when you stall out or get stuck without applying the clutch?? Thanks in advance, p.s..... taking the yeep on its first camping trip this weekend, should be fun!
I'm sure someone who knows a little more than I do will chime in, but I think the point of the no-clutch start in 4-low is so that you put it into gear (1st or 2nd), and THEN start the jeep. The starter should have enough power to get you going methinks...
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Jeep Enthusiast Forums
18.5M posts
726.7K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to all jeep owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, engine swaps, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!