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Unread 12-04-2013, 03:58 PM   #1
CVA19
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What else should be done while lifting?

I've spent the last year researching jeeps and have had the opportunity to drive a stock jeep a decent amount, both on and off trails. I'm working with a few different dealerships on pricing JKUR's and plan to purchase in the next couple weeks.

I've read what feels like every thread on this great forum and have a fairly comprehensive build sheet laid out. I'm not real handy in a garage but my retiring father who has done a few car restorations is going to help with the build.

I've decided to run 35's with an AEV 2.5 Dualsport lift and am hoping you all could give some input on what else should I knock out at the same time as doing the lift? Since it's going to be spending some time at my dad's garage I want to knock out a few things at once to maximize the time.

Thanks for any input!

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Unread 12-04-2013, 04:15 PM   #2
brianjw
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Depends, how much money do you have?

If you wheel it hard you'll find all sorts of weak points with the factory parts. Is this going to be a brand new jeep?

The most simple thing would be to order a full synergy suspension bolt kit. New bolts, washers and nuts for the front and rear track bars, upper and lower control arms. The stock bolts are undersized and threaded the full length through the bushings. This buggers up the sleeves in the bushings and creates slop. The synergy bolts will be the proper size and shouldered. Be sure you have a quality torque wrench of course. It makes sense to do this with the initial install.

I would also recommend the geometry correction brackets from AEV ($100 or so) which will reduce brake dive and correct caster back to stock numbers. Do not use cam bolts. If you don't like the brackets, consider adjustable front lower control arms.

Next, a quality adjustable front track bar. This will allow you to center the front axle, and a firmer track bar will improve steering a huge amount. The stock bar bends and flexes and causes indirect steering and drift, more pronounced with big heavy tires.

Later on you'll see a big improvement upgrading the tie rod, drag link and ball joints as the stock parts are all soft and 35s take their toll.

If you wheel it, I would strongly recommend front axle sleeves and C gussets to keep it from bending. This is a good time to replace the ball joints as well.

I could go on and on but I'll refer to the first question.

Either way, the bolt kit when you install the lift. Geometry brackets too if you do them. The track bar is optional and can be done later but it is a major improvement.
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Unread 12-04-2013, 04:25 PM   #3
ROCKR8R
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What year Jeep do you have? I would consider re-gearing if you are prior to 2012. If you have 4.10 and 2012+ then should be ok with the 35's (I'd want 4.56 or 4.88 though with the 2012+).

The 2.5" AEV is a good kit for the money. I would do adjustable front trackbar, adjustable control arms and Adam's Driveshafts, Artec or Synergy c-gussets. However, none are needed.

-Dan
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Unread 12-04-2013, 05:11 PM   #4
CVA19
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Thanks for the quick feedback. The JKUR will be in the 2008-2010 range most likely unless something really attractive comes in on a 2012. I have yet to purchase it as there are several in my area and the prices are falling the closer we get to end of year. This is going to a be a 3rd car for the family so it's not going to be my DD. It will be a weekend/project deal for me so I'm not looking to drop a ton of money in to something I play to beat up. I'll primarily use it for camping and beach driving but also plan to do some crawling whenever possible and join a local jeep club. I have a fairly addictive personality so I think once I get in to crawling it's going to grow on me and I'll go at it fairly hard.

I'l definitely add the bolt kit to my list and plan to re-gear once it's lifted and I've had a chance to see how it feels with the larger tires on. The geometry correction bracket is already on the list as well.

Anything else you wish you had done while you were tearing it apart?
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Unread 12-04-2013, 07:01 PM   #5
brianjw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CVA19
Thanks for the quick feedback. The JKUR will be in the 2008-2010 range most likely unless something really attractive comes in on a 2012. I have yet to purchase it as there are several in my area and the prices are falling the closer we get to end of year. This is going to a be a 3rd car for the family so it's not going to be my DD. It will be a weekend/project deal for me so I'm not looking to drop a ton of money in to something I play to beat up. I'll primarily use it for camping and beach driving but also plan to do some crawling whenever possible and join a local jeep club. I have a fairly addictive personality so I think once I get in to crawling it's going to grow on me and I'll go at it fairly hard.

I'l definitely add the bolt kit to my list and plan to re-gear once it's lifted and I've had a chance to see how it feels with the larger tires on. The geometry correction bracket is already on the list as well.

Anything else you wish you had done while you were tearing it apart?
Anything else can be added just as easily later on. There really isn't much "tearing apart" for that suspension.

You may find things as you install the lift. Worn out ball joints, tie rods ends etc. My main advice is don't replace it with stock stuff, it won't hold up.

Look closely at the front track bar mount holes on the frame side, these commonly get "ovaled out" due to the undersized bolt, weak mounting point, and lack of torque. Synergy sells a track bar mount re-enforcement bracket for $100 (I use this) that will fix/prevent the problem. Just be aware that installing 35s on a jk that's a few years old is likely to quickly present the work out components. Since it's not your daily, I wouldn't sweat it now. Just look over things really well during the install and you can plan your upgrades later, when you've found the right rig and you can spend more time researching other upgrades.
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Unread 12-04-2013, 08:23 PM   #6
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I installed the 2.5 AEV Dualsport two Saturdays ago, and I couldn't be happier. I did months of research myself before deciding on this lift. The on road feel is incredible and off road is even better. The progressive rate coils are definitely the way to go. It has a much more stable feel now hitting a bump in the road, it gets back to normal faster. I can't figure out how to explain it. I haven't installed the geometry corrections yet, so I can't speak for them, but I would recommend this lift to anyone.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 08:05 PM   #7
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Beer drinking should also be done while lifting. Or even before or after lifting.
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Unread 12-08-2013, 07:06 AM   #8
CVA19
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Let's assume the initial budget is pretty big. What else would you all do?
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Unread 12-08-2013, 07:30 AM   #9
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Since you are getting used I would start with New synergy balljoints, bolt kit, unit bearings then check all suspension and steering parts before starting with the lift.
Once that is done and you ensure that it rides and handles good, then you are ready to tackle the lift.

As far as your list. I think adding a quality adjustable front Trackbar is a good idea but can be added later.

Drive the Jeep for a minimum of 1 week or couple hundred miles on stock wheels to ensure that the lift components are installed correctly and there are no issues. Once you determine all is good then put on the new wheels.

Changing too many parts/variables at the same time can make any issues very hard to pinpoint. Systematic instal and test periods will help you determine changes in handling characteristics as you modify making problem diagnosis easier.
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Unread 12-08-2013, 11:11 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CVA19 View Post
I've spent the last year researching jeeps and have had the opportunity to drive a stock jeep a decent amount, both on and off trails. I'm working with a few different dealerships on pricing JKUR's and plan to purchase in the next couple weeks.

I've read what feels like every thread on this great forum and have a fairly comprehensive build sheet laid out. I'm not real handy in a garage but my retiring father who has done a few car restorations is going to help with the build.

I've decided to run 35's with an AEV 2.5 Dualsport lift and am hoping you all could give some input on what else should I knock out at the same time as doing the lift? Since it's going to be spending some time at my dad's garage I want to knock out a few things at once to maximize the time.

Thanks for any input!
I just installed one of those suspensions on a club member's '10 JKUR and I'm impressed with it. We used the AEV front control arm drop brackets and I highly recommend them over adjustable control arms. They get the front end geometry in a much better plane, give the rig a much better ride & emulate the effect of a long arm suspension. The great thing about that kit is you can retain stock driveshafts and no need to do a drag link flip/steering correction kit, but you can run 35's on either spacers or aftermarket wheels with 4.5" or less backspacing. I installed that kit on here rig, she ran down to Goodyear and got 33" MTR/Ks, came to Moab with us and ran Behind The Rocks without a single issue.

As for other things that will need done, depends upon how you'll finish out the rig. If you plan on bumers and a winch, depending upon the total weighht add a 1/2" -> 1" spacer to the front springs to level the rig. My friend's husband put a heavy Warn Powerplant on heres and it needed a full 1". A lighter winch might take less.
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Unread 12-08-2013, 11:44 AM   #11
CVA19
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Step 2 after the lift/tires is to do a PSC front bumper (brawler mid) and winch. Should I go ahead and add the spacers while doing the lift?
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Unread 12-08-2013, 01:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CVA19
Step 2 after the lift/tires is to do a PSC front bumper (brawler mid) and winch. Should I go ahead and add the spacers while doing the lift?
Spacers for the new springs? The AEV springs should handle the bumper and winch without coil spacers. You could Contact AEV and find out if you need a different spring to carry the extra weight.
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Unread 12-08-2013, 01:20 PM   #13
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Re-gear the axles. Even if you would end up with a 12+, you'll still benefit from a better gear ratio.
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Unread 12-08-2013, 02:19 PM   #14
brianjw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto
Drive the Jeep for a minimum of 1 week or couple hundred miles on stock wheels to ensure that the lift components are installed correctly and there are no issues. Once you determine all is good then put on the new wheels.

Changing too many parts/variables at the same time can make any issues very hard to pinpoint. Systematic instal and test periods will help you determine changes in handling characteristics as you modify making problem diagnosis easier.
Actually I really agree with this. A few things at a time. Some guys drop off their jeep and have someone install $10k+ of junk, then come and ask about a problem. It can be so hard to diagnose if you just installed a bunch of things.

So I would primarily do suspension stuff at first. Lift, bolt kit, adjustable front track bar and geometry brackets. Make sure it drives right and is aligned well without vibration. Then wheels/tires.
Then I would look at sleeves/truss/c gusset and ball joints with the front axle. Drive it more. Decide if you want to re gear.

The AEV springs work well with bumpers as winches and gear, you shouldn't need any spacers.
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Unread 12-08-2013, 04:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto
Spacers for the new springs? The AEV springs should handle the bumper and winch without coil spacers. You could Contact AEV and find out if you need a different spring to carry the extra weight.
Should and do are two different animals. Took 1" to level the rig back out. AEV did not have a different spring when she called. They installed a Warm Powerplant, which is a load.
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