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Unread 10-11-2010, 08:47 PM   #1
hkenny90
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What driveshaft did you pick?

what drive shafts did you guys pick up after exceeding the max degree from lift??

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Unread 10-11-2010, 08:49 PM   #2
chickenhawk7
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Tom Woods
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Unread 10-11-2010, 09:10 PM   #3
Warlord2
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Tw
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07 JK 2D X model with 6 speeds. Full Traction 3" ultimate lift kit. 315x75x16 Toyo Open Country M/T on Rock crawler procomp rim. Ruby dana44's front sleeved inside/outside C truss and rear with 5.13's gears. Homemade rock guards, rear bumper w/tire carrier, oilpan/tranny skid, evap canister skid, light bar, switch pod. Riddler diff covers, Cobra 75 w/wilson antenna, Polk speakers, 10" sub, 2x Amps, Lightforce 240 drive light, backup lights, rock lights.
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Unread 10-11-2010, 09:16 PM   #4
hkenny90
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after 3 inches you guys did front or both?
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Unread 10-11-2010, 09:18 PM   #5
Warlord2
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I have a 2 door so the rear was the first to go for me. Only took about 5k miles after the 3 inch lift with only pavement driving. Front was still good but I changed it out anyways. Just know you must have adjustable upper control arms to run the tom woods driveshafts
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07 JK 2D X model with 6 speeds. Full Traction 3" ultimate lift kit. 315x75x16 Toyo Open Country M/T on Rock crawler procomp rim. Ruby dana44's front sleeved inside/outside C truss and rear with 5.13's gears. Homemade rock guards, rear bumper w/tire carrier, oilpan/tranny skid, evap canister skid, light bar, switch pod. Riddler diff covers, Cobra 75 w/wilson antenna, Polk speakers, 10" sub, 2x Amps, Lightforce 240 drive light, backup lights, rock lights.
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Unread 10-11-2010, 09:31 PM   #6
hkenny90
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good point, thanks for the info
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Unread 10-12-2010, 08:14 PM   #7
KPJ
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"Just know you must have adjustable upper control arms to run the tom woods driveshafts"

Why?

JPK
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Unread 10-12-2010, 08:21 PM   #8
Charles
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I think Tom Woods is the answer to most drive shaft questions

And I am also wondering about the upper control arms.
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Unread 10-12-2010, 08:51 PM   #9
ncb
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Because you must adjust the pinion angle when running a double-cardan drive shaft or you'll have vibes and possible damage. On the front you have to find the sweet spot between proper drive line angles and acceptable caster setting.
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Unread 10-12-2010, 09:22 PM   #10
Charles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncb View Post
Because you must adjust the pinion angle when running a double-cardan drive shaft or you'll have vibes and possible damage. On the front you have to find the sweet spot between proper drive line angles and acceptable caster setting.
FML Has anyone ever put a list together of all of this information...such as what those settings are with different lift heights etc. or is that what the local 4X4 store is for?
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Unread 10-12-2010, 10:37 PM   #11
aermotor
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Tom Woods. Perfection.

And no you don't need adjustable control arms per sť. If you do need anything, you will need lowers for the front and uppers for the rear. See next statement below for qualification.

On the rear absolutely yes — on the front, case by case basis. I have a 4-6" lift and do not require adjustable arms on my front shaft. They told me I needed them, I bought them, installed the shaft, and sent the arms back. No vibrations, no steering issues, nothing. To each his own.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cbloyer81 View Post
FML Has anyone ever put a list together of all of this information...such as what those settings are with different lift heights etc. or is that what the local 4X4 store is for?
I took a leap of faith and after A LOT of reading, installed the front myself with no issues. Didn't need to adjust the pinion angle or anything, this is on a huge lift too. The front is less crucial, some people need it, some don't I guess. When I have a few hundred extra to burn and don't have anything else to upgrade on the Jeep, I'll get them eventually. The install is really quite simple, I wish I did a detailed write up when I did it... sparse recap below.

1) Remove all skid plates/armor in the way of the front driveline to make it easier.
2) Unbolt old shaft, lots of bolts, no big deal. bang the shaft off with a mallet once all the bolts are off as it will be seized in place.
3) Remove the existing pinion nuts with a 1-1/8" and 1-1/4" socket on the transfer case and differential.
4) Use a gear puller remove the flanges from the transfer case and differential. Rent one from your local auto store for free basically.
5) Install new Tom Woods flanges, silicone the insides of them before putting them on to make them oil tight.
6) Install new pinion nuts with red locklite and torque to 160lbs. Differential end is easy cause it's locked in place. Transfer case end is a ***** cause it spins freely, I used a huge monkey wrench to keep the flange from spinning while I somehow managed to get it torqued to spec.
7) Bolt both ends of the new Tom Woods shaft in using red locktite on all bolts and torque to spec, I just did them really tight without stressing them.
8) Take it for a test drive and see how she does... Since the front shaft is always spinning whether you're in 2WD r 4WD you'll know right away if things are wonkey or not. Take it slow and see how it does. If it's smooth as can be, engage 4WD and test it out as well.

TIP: I originally did not locktite the new shaft bolts into place at first because if it jacked my ride up, I'd be able to easily take them off and remove the shaft (so I could at least drive around) to later have the adjustable arms installed, then reinstall the shaft.
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Unread 10-13-2010, 02:06 AM   #12
Warlord2
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The adjustable upper control arms are used to adjust the axles pinon so that it is pointed at the CV joint nearest to the TC. If you dont there WILL be damage to either the driveshaft or TC or both. I never adjusted my front either because I didnt have vibrations.....HOWEVER after about 15k miles my driveshaft center bearing was completely destroyed and I had to spend another $200 for a new end (I have just 3" of lift). So YES you do need adjustable UPPER control arms for FRONT AND REAR with a double CV style driveshaft to install them correctly. This is a known issue with any double CV style driveshafts, the pinion MUST be adjust to within a few degree (depend on manufacturer claims) to preserve the life of the DS, TC and axle. Also double CV driveshaft loose there strengths at greater angles, so the more flex, the weaker the DS will be. Without adjusting they will be all the much weaker when there is flexing going on. Here is a good read, coming straight from TW to help understand how CV drive shafts work
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Driveline 101
Commonly asked questions can be found here
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Technical Information

When installing the new flange it is recommended to take a inch pound torque wrench reading to see how easily the pinion nut turns (with brake pads removed). THEN take the stock pinion nut off, the idea is to match that torque reading with the new flange installed. The 160lb is just a "guess" but it could be off by quite a bit from where the preload for the gears need to be. I would honistly read a LOT before attempting a new flange install or take it to a mechanic that knows what they are doing. Getting it wrong can cost you $$$$$ from the blown out gears and internals.
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07 JK 2D X model with 6 speeds. Full Traction 3" ultimate lift kit. 315x75x16 Toyo Open Country M/T on Rock crawler procomp rim. Ruby dana44's front sleeved inside/outside C truss and rear with 5.13's gears. Homemade rock guards, rear bumper w/tire carrier, oilpan/tranny skid, evap canister skid, light bar, switch pod. Riddler diff covers, Cobra 75 w/wilson antenna, Polk speakers, 10" sub, 2x Amps, Lightforce 240 drive light, backup lights, rock lights.
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Unread 10-13-2010, 11:50 AM   #13
aermotor
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You are correct above about eventually needing the arms to keep the longevity.

As far as the pinion nut goes, 160 is what Tom Woods recommends. You would need to apply around 200lbs of torque to even come close to messing up the crush sleeve. You can always do what you recommend of course.
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Unread 10-13-2010, 02:58 PM   #14
Warlord2
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actually I have talked to TW when I had a question about the dust covers, he said that the 160 is a rough estimate that they put on all there DS's and will put you in the ball park. No you dont want to crush the sleeve, however you dont want to undercompress them as well, that can also damage them. I had to use about 15lbs more torque then that 160 when I installed mine to get the correct inch pounds of torque to turn the pinion as the stock setup. But hey, if you dont want to spend the $10 for a harber freight inch/torque wrench that could save your gears, then that is up to you.....Im no making this up, MANY guides on the web for this, try asking the Engines & Drivetrain section. They will tell you how to do it the right way, or point you to a GOOD guide. Using this method will also make sure you are installing the correct pinion nut.
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07 JK 2D X model with 6 speeds. Full Traction 3" ultimate lift kit. 315x75x16 Toyo Open Country M/T on Rock crawler procomp rim. Ruby dana44's front sleeved inside/outside C truss and rear with 5.13's gears. Homemade rock guards, rear bumper w/tire carrier, oilpan/tranny skid, evap canister skid, light bar, switch pod. Riddler diff covers, Cobra 75 w/wilson antenna, Polk speakers, 10" sub, 2x Amps, Lightforce 240 drive light, backup lights, rock lights.
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Unread 10-13-2010, 06:11 PM   #15
gamble3527
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whats the concensus on JE REEL driveshafts? yay or nay? thanks guys!
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