So Friday was eventful, I was able to get part of the "goods" installed.
The first part of the adventure was fabricating a tool to aid driving in the Nitro axle sleeves. This was loosely based off another forum so I won't take full credit. A piece of 2" pipe and some 1/2" thick plate on one side (BFH side) welded together. A 1/2" plate with a 1/2" diameter 2-1/2" long bolt through it was welded to the otherside (sleeve end). The 2.47" sized seal driver was then slid over the bolt and a few washers were used to help keep it in the sleeve and centered between blows.
After removing the brake assyembly and carefully pulling the axle out inspecting the tube reveled a relatively clean tube.
After a small wire brush ,a scotchbrite pad and some WD-40. Shinny, shinny.
Now after sitting in the freezer for 3 days the Nitro sleeve -0* in front of the weapons of choice. Axle tube was warmed with a torch to expand the metal.
Ok , so after days of gut wrenching ,bile churning anticipation of how this was going to play out. The long side tube went in effortlessly. Just a couple of love taps to seat it flush.
On to the drivers side.
Same as the passenger side only shorter. This should be even easier right?
Axle tube is cleaned up and awaiting it's delivery.
Here's a shot of what a tube looks like sitting in the axle.
I should maybe start working on getting it all the way in. ( That's what she said ) Hey, remember that tool I made? Well it was put to the test ,because I had to pound the @#%* out of it to get it in flush. The nightmares and horror stories are coming true at this point. BUT perseverance prevails, and so does the perspiration Sorry no picture of the after but as you can guess it looks like the other side.
Note to self ... have someone else take pictures during time sensitive tasks.
2008 JK Rubicon
-255/80/17 BFG KM2s, 16/59 JKU springs, 2013 Rubi rims, RC stubby hybrid front bumper, XRC8 winch with synthetic line, RR evap skid, and more to come
1959 Willys Wagon
-Going to be restored and painted Plantation White and Presidential Red
"I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth."
Glad you accomplished that! I know they sell a tool to help you get that sleeve in. You Might have been able to rent it
If you mean the seal driver kit the silver cup on the end is part of the kit. Problem is the handle is only 8" long and aluminum so I don't think it would hold up for too long. I try to plan for the worst and hope for the best.
Don't mean to hijack but how was the install on the AEV 2.5" lift, I am thinking of going in that direction. I'm kind of a novice but I know my way around a toolbox ok.
I checked out the install directions it doesn't look overly complicated..
No worries. The lift is straight forward I do have a few tips for you. Loosen all the control arm and trackbar bolts on the ground before you raise the Jeep . This will take the load off the bushings which will eliminate a bound up suspension.When doing the front get it off the ground as high as you can. Before you lower the axle unbolt the driveshaft at the axle. This will allow the axle to drop all the way letting the springs fall and let you get the new ones in easier. The brake line retainer on the frame should be pulled as well letting the brakelines go down with the axle. Pull the diff breather tube from the axle and pull the bolt from the trackbar from axle side mount. This will allow the axle to freely come down. Two floor jacks one on each side of axle will help balance it so you can apply force to one spring and install the other.
All the torque specs are in the F.A.Q . If you need any other words of wisdom or have any questions just let me know. If you haven't decided on a vendor Northridge 4x4 has a great rep. here as well as Krawll Off Road.
I would need to research if a flip kit would work with a only 2.5"lift. Not sure if I have enough up travel room. I would like to at least upgrade that and the sorry excuse for a tie rod at some point.