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Unread 10-16-2012, 08:09 AM   #16
Imped
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OP is clueless.

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Unread 10-16-2012, 08:35 AM   #17
Kmin
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Easy Now,

The whole reason im posting something is because i don't know much about it. I own my jeep now and love it and probebly will never buy anything but one.

I know what I want to do if i get a new one but don't know all the details and dont want to get in over my head.... so i guess yes i am clueless

Thanks to everyone with actuall advice and help
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Unread 10-16-2012, 08:43 AM   #18
RockyClymer
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OK, so clueless is a bit hard, but surely need to learn a lot going from a newbie to a 4 or 6 inch lift with no working knowledge...and the JK is significantly different from a TJ. My rule of thumb, and remember I said my rule, not someone elses, is that plan on $1000 to $1500 per inch of lift...to do it adequately as described above. So, a 6 inch lift will run 6k to 8k to do properly by my rule of thumb....a 4 inch will run 4k to 6k, etc...
I really suggest scanning and reading other posts to learn all you can before you make such a big leap and spend big bucks.
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Unread 10-16-2012, 09:02 AM   #19
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more things to consider

One thing that has barely been touched on is model selection. If you buy a Rubicon it will have 4.10 gearing that will be "managable" for up to 37's, plus you would have the 4:1 transfer case just in case you do off road it. One of my buddies just bought a used 08 Rubicon with a 4" lift and 35" Toyos on chrome rims, wheels and tires went away in favor MTR 37's and a more off roadable wheel. We added sleeves and gussets to front end which I would highly recommend since it is lot simpler to prevent damage than repair. He looked at used JK's with 6" lift and it seemed like most owners commented that it was "not really a highway rig". There ya have my two cents.
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Unread 10-16-2012, 03:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmin View Post
Better yet can anyone post some good comparision pictures of a stock jk to a 4" lifted jk on 35"s or 37"s? The concenses seems that there is a lot more work to do for the 6" lift compared to the 4" and that it is a lot more money just for two inches.
Six inches on 37s


All parts are TeraFlex.
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Unread 10-17-2012, 01:08 PM   #21
HappyTrails
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius View Post
Remember JK lift usually follows the rules: 3"=35"s, 4"=37"s, 6"=38"s minimum, probably 40"s.
Not necessarily. I am running 37's with only 2.5" of lift and flat fenders.
This pic is with a RK 2.5" Max Travel and before the flat fenders:
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Unread 10-18-2012, 06:33 AM   #22
aldaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmin View Post
Im here! Thanks for all the advice. I was planning on getting 37" tires to fill out the lift but it seems that they will fill out a 4" lift much better? I was looking at the teraflex 6" or 4" kit. That looks like it will include most parts but i will still need to buy
- Longer driveshaft (front and rear?)
- New gearing (is this neccessary? if i stick with 37" but go to a 4" kit? or say i go down to 35")
- extended break lines

This is what i noticed was not included in the kit so please list more if im missing it, but im looking for what is absolutly neccessary not a convinence. (i.e steering assist seems like it would help but again not neccessary)
Welcome to the forum. I am going to assume that you will be getting the complete 4" kit from TF (see below). Aside from the kit you may also need:
  1. Aftermarket front driveshaft, rear should be okay.
  2. Front sway bar link disconnects if you do a lot of offroading
  3. Drag link flip kit
  4. Regear to 5.13
  5. Re-enforce / gusset / sleeved your front axle
  6. AEV Procal or Tuner/programmer to adjust your gear ratio setting, calibrate speedometer, set TPMS, etc

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Unread 10-18-2012, 12:19 PM   #23
GotLime
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TF 4" lift and 37" BFG KM2s:


See my build thread: driveshafts, gears, larger brakes, upgraded steering, tire carrier, etc. All stuff you need with bigger lifts and larger tires.
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Unread 10-18-2012, 01:01 PM   #24
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For me its a balance of all dimensions. A six inch lift WILL get you over a bigger rock - but does not do much for getting you UNDER a tree branch (my hardtop is at 6'3" on a TF2.5 spring and 35s @ 25PSI). 14 inch wide tires tracking at 86" WILL get you more stability (go out at least half as much as you go up seems a norm) - but does little for getting you down a narrow ravine (or on the trailer - lol - I am at 82 with 12.5 tires on 4.75 backspace, my trailer is 80", 85 between fenders so it goes but VERY carefully) Getting too extreme in any direction takes possibilities off the table. I have seen this many times on the Rubicon - the big tall and wide ones have a harder time DRIVING (yes mechanically its IS easier) the course, fitting between the rocks or between and\or under branches. So I turtle a bit more than the guy with a 4" - but I still get to beer'clock at the same time!

The JKU does need a bit more steering anticipation as it is a longer WB - but once you get that down you never really think about it. And it does have its torque curve at a higher RPM and is heavier so you will tend to use the skinny pedal a bit harder. Aside from that its still the same basic challenge - do as much as possible (capabilities) with as little as possible (modifications).
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Unread 10-18-2012, 02:01 PM   #25
SubAtomicGenius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyTrails View Post
Not necessarily. I am running 37's with only 2.5" of lift and flat fenders.
This pic is with a RK 2.5" Max Travel and before the flat fenders:


Well, you are right, the other rule for JK lifts is that flat flares will typically clear the next tire-size up.

35" tires = 3" lift or 2" lift with flat flares...
37" tires = 4" lift or 3" lift with flat flares...

Another lift factor is that most lifts will actually net you more lift than actually stated. For example, a 2.5" lift may actually give you more than 3" of lift initially. My 3" lift gave me close to 4". Then you have to account for sag over time!!!

Lift sag can be aggravated/introduced with heavy bumpers, armor, tire carriers and winches!!! Some lifts sag more than others!!!

Yet another factor is tire size. Most tires are actually slightly smaller than their advertized rating by 0.25-0.75 inches in diameter. A "35" may only be 34.25" in diameter. So some manufacturer's tires may actually "fit" better with a lesser amount of lift, while others may not.
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Unread 10-18-2012, 03:28 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwmbishop View Post
For me its a balance of all dimensions. A six inch lift WILL get you over a bigger rock - but does not do much for getting you UNDER a tree branch (my hardtop is at 6'3" on a TF2.5 spring and 35s @ 25PSI). 14 inch wide tires tracking at 86" WILL get you more stability (go out at least half as much as you go up seems a norm) - but does little for getting you down a narrow ravine (or on the trailer - lol - I am at 82 with 12.5 tires on 4.75 backspace, my trailer is 80", 85 between fenders so it goes but VERY carefully) Getting too extreme in any direction takes possibilities off the table. I have seen this many times on the Rubicon - the big tall and wide ones have a harder time DRIVING (yes mechanically its IS easier) the course, fitting between the rocks or between and\or under branches. So I turtle a bit more than the guy with a 4" - but I still get to beer'clock at the same time!

The JKU does need a bit more steering anticipation as it is a longer WB - but once you get that down you never really think about it. And it does have its torque curve at a higher RPM and is heavier so you will tend to use the skinny pedal a bit harder. Aside from that its still the same basic challenge - do as much as possible (capabilities) with as little as possible (modifications).
Quote:
Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius View Post
Well, you are right, the other rule for JK lifts is that flat flares will typically clear the next tire-size up.

35" tires = 3" lift or 2" lift with flat flares...
37" tires = 4" lift or 3" lift with flat flares...

Another lift factor is that most lifts will actually net you more lift than actually stated. For example, a 2.5" lift may actually give you more than 3" of lift initially. My 3" lift gave me close to 4". Then you have to account for sag over time!!!

Lift sag can be aggravated/introduced with heavy bumpers, armor, tire carriers and winches!!! Some lifts sag more than others!!!

Yet another factor is tire size. Most tires are actually slightly smaller than their advertized rating by 0.25-0.75 inches in diameter. A "35" may only be 34.25" in diameter. So some manufacturer's tires may actually "fit" better with a lesser amount of lift, while others may not.
True and true.
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Unread 10-18-2012, 03:36 PM   #27
Kmin
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Thanks guys. This is some very good feedback and your hitting a lot of my main concerns.

So now that I know what else im going to need to get i pose two more questions related to all of this

1. Would you say it is cheaper a. buying a sport unlimited and regearing or b. buying a rubicon and not? (also does things like the sway bar disconects on a rubicon still work after its lifted?)

2. Would you say you save money overall finding one that is already lifted to the height i want or buying stock and building it up? (I know i know that its very un-jeep like to buy one already built but if its saving me some cash it may have to be done)
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Unread 10-18-2012, 04:05 PM   #28
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If you buy a sport you start with a clean slate - but at the end of the build you still have a 2:1 transfer case.

If you start with a Rubi - you may throw a lot of parts off - but it's the ONLY way to get the 4:1 transfer! (unless you buy built and the builder installed it).

I paid 36 for my 11 rubi and have added ~35 in parts to it, doing all labor myself. And (I know - It officially makes me a wuss) the reason I did it to a new vehicle is so I would not have to deal with dirt, grime and holes that don't line up because its already been pounded on the trails, so I did pay a premium to stay cleaner and have a less stressful build.

To get the same built (and their is NOTHING wrong with buying built - thats what keeps builders in business) starting from a sport pack (without the lower transfer) would run just about the same hard cost $$ - but require a bunch more labor. - and thats what eats into the budget. I just do not have the time to build as I have so many other chores within my fleet - unless I gave up the days I do show, cruise or wheel one of my toys and then WHY - those are the rewards of my labor!!!

The electronic sway disconnect simply splits the sway bar into two separate unattached segments - so it works no matter what lift you run. Although I love the convenience of auto disconnect - I would prefer disconnect links as there is no way an electrical issue gets in the way in a pinch.

The problem with buying an already lifted Jeep is you may not be able to confirm the work - there are two types of work I do. Work for me I will cut some (very few) selected corners knowing I got it covered later - work for other people (even when NOT free) I do NOT cut any corners. Some guys out there do not make that distinction and the result is often that as long as it works RIGHT NOW its good enough - never mind 20k miles later as we deal with that then! SO the cash you save upfront can very easily be used up later (at a Higher cost due to inflation) in repairs or rebuilding hidden cut corners.

EDIT: and when you build yourself you become more mechanically sympathetic to the vehicle. My buddy will drive his TJ hard up the face of a cliff, foot to the floor bouncing, banging on trees rocks or whatever gets in his way - no fear. I take it easy and get to the same point - no fear but lots of respect for the parts I am banging on. The difference is - he has nothing but money invested in his - I have time money blood and my own pride in it... NETHER of us is wrong in our attitude or approach! (He has more scars to brag about though...)
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Unread 10-19-2012, 08:12 PM   #29
JeepBobWinnipeg
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I currently have just 2.5" lift and Xenon 1.5" wider than stock flares... love it!

My previous JK had the same lift without the flat flares, and I had a 1" body lift.

Both are amazingly capable, both very streetable. Anything over 3" gets silly in my opinion, and will required steering assist, driveshafts, pinion adjust, caster accomodations, etc etc.

Why get into all that, when you can get respectible height, handling and capability from less lift?

My current set up on my '12...


Something no one is bringing up here as well, is local law and enforcement. A lot of pics I see on here wouldn't get very far locally. You'd be pulled over and harrassed, big time. OP, heads up, check what your State laws permit.
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Unread 10-19-2012, 10:21 PM   #30
donny90yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepBobWinnipeg
I currently have just 2.5" lift and Xenon 1.5" wider than stock flares... love it!

My previous JK had the same lift without the flat flares, and I had a 1" body lift.

Both are amazingly capable, both very streetable. Anything over 3" gets silly in my opinion, and will required steering assist, driveshafts, pinion adjust, caster accomodations, etc etc.

Why get into all that, when you can get respectible height, handling and capability from less lift?

My current set up on my '12...

Something no one is bringing up here as well, is local law and enforcement. A lot of pics I see on here wouldn't get very far locally. You'd be pulled over and harrassed, big time. OP, heads up, check what your State laws permit.
Mudflaps make it legal for your state or what??
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