Tire size dilemma - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > JK Wrangler Technical Forum > Tire size dilemma

Artec Holiday Sale!Bead Lock Wheels! Raceline, Trail Ready, & Trail-GearROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail

Reply
Unread 10-19-2011, 10:43 AM   #1
DrHolliday
Senior Member
 
DrHolliday's Avatar
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Gresham, OREGON
Posts: 678
Tire size dilemma

Greetings, been reading around here for a while but this is my first post.

I just looked through the whole 2 door lift pic thread and it didn't help me make a decision at all. I have a 2011 2 door 6spd rubi. Over the weekend I'm going to install the 3.5" RK x-factor mid arm. For now I'm going to keep the stock fender flares but could be talked into cutting them.

I just can't decide between 35's or 37's. Either way I'll be driving it with the stock 4.10's for the better part of a year before a regear.

Anyone have pictures of that lift on 35's and 37's? I'm a little more hesitant to cut the rear pinch seem can it be bent over to clear 37's? Do you think I'll regret going with 35's?

I also have 2" bump stop extensions on the way that I'll have to install after they make it here depending on what rubs where.

Thanks for any help/ opinions.

DrHolliday is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-19-2011, 10:55 AM   #2
jstrubberg
Registered User
2009 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,124
You are going to hate that rig with that gear ratio on either of those tires. 35s are going to be bad (forget sixth gear), 37s are going to be worse.
jstrubberg is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-19-2011, 11:00 AM   #3
DrHolliday
Senior Member
 
DrHolliday's Avatar
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Gresham, OREGON
Posts: 678
Quote:
Originally Posted by jstrubberg View Post
You are going to hate that rig with that gear ratio on either of those tires. 35s are going to be bad (forget sixth gear), 37s are going to be worse.
It's less of a DD and more of a weekend warrior/ trail use Jeep. If its too bad to drive around town I'll drive my truck around.

Though with 35's wouldn't it be loosely comparable to 3.73's and 32's? And the 37's like 3.21's and 32's? I know that doesn't factor in the weight of the wheel and tire at highway speeds at all though.
DrHolliday is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-19-2011, 11:10 AM   #4
jstrubberg
Registered User
2009 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,124
Highway speeds are where you will run into trouble. I'm assuming Oregon has a lot of grade to it's highways.

Trail use ought to be fine, although I suspect you will be feathering the clutch quite a bit.
jstrubberg is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-19-2011, 12:35 PM   #5
williewvr
Registered User
2013 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: alice, texas
Posts: 400
Rubies aren't too bad with 6 speed and 4.10/ 35 in tires. Just have to use 4 low on the trails if your having problems with starts. Wont be going anywhere very fast. In 4 low my '10 runs about 17-18 at the most rpm I feel comfortable running, but I've never had any prob starting with in in 4 low and I never used the 1-3 gears there either
williewvr is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-19-2011, 01:02 PM   #6
ArticRubi
Arrogant SOB
 
ArticRubi's Avatar
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Somerville, MA
Posts: 1,787
As requested:


Just did this over the weekend, it's a 3.5" Rock Krawler mid-arm flex lift, and sitting on 35x12.5" Trail Grapplers (which measure at 35.4" tall.) My 4.10's are doing just fine, highway driving included. I live in New England, so we have plenty of hills, maybe not as long as in Oregon, but still plenty steep. On steeper grades I've had to downshift to 5th to maintain my highway speed, but it does just fine with the stock gears. I haven't taken it off road yet, but I did drop it to 4-low and did a bit of urban crawling on a grocrey store loading dock, the I have to say, I didn't notice much of a difference from when I was running 32's. That being said...I have an install of 4.88's, sleeves, and gussets coming up the beginning of November.
__________________
From Rubicon to Icon - 4-link, Tons, Atlas Build

Build Thread

Need parts? Need product advice? Contact Jason at Krawl Off-Road
ArticRubi is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-19-2011, 01:49 PM   #7
DrHolliday
Senior Member
 
DrHolliday's Avatar
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Gresham, OREGON
Posts: 678
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwood0125 View Post
As requested:


Just did this over the weekend, it's a 3.5" Rock Krawler mid-arm flex lift, and sitting on 35x12.5" Trail Grapplers (which measure at 35.4" tall.) My 4.10's are doing just fine, highway driving included. I live in New England, so we have plenty of hills, maybe not as long as in Oregon, but still plenty steep. On steeper grades I've had to downshift to 5th to maintain my highway speed, but it does just fine with the stock gears. I haven't taken it off road yet, but I did drop it to 4-low and did a bit of urban crawling on a grocrey store loading dock, the I have to say, I didn't notice much of a difference from when I was running 32's. That being said...I have an install of 4.88's, sleeves, and gussets coming up the beginning of November.
I do like how that looks with the stock fenders and 35's. What length bump stop extensions did you use and was the loading dock enough to get full flex to see if they rub?
DrHolliday is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-19-2011, 01:55 PM   #8
ArticRubi
Arrogant SOB
 
ArticRubi's Avatar
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Somerville, MA
Posts: 1,787
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrHolliday View Post
I do like how that looks with the stock fenders and 35's. What length bump stop extensions did you use and was the loading dock enough to get full flex to see if they rub?
If memory serves me right, I went with 2 1/2" uppers in the front and 1 1/2" lowers in the rear. Unfortunately I wasn't able to flex it all the way out, it was a concrete walkway that went up to the man door next to the loading dock so it wasn't much rise/run. I was probably only 1/2 way flexed when my back tire got onto the ramp.

In hindsight, I'm kind of regretting getting the flex system and not the x-factor. it was less than $400 more for the x-factor and has the UCA's and new rear track bar. Good new is the kit is upgradable and it should cost any more than the original difference of the kits to upgrade, bad news is I just had it all torn down and it would have been much easier to do it all in one shot. Make sure you check out my build thread before you get into it, there were a few things that were a major PITA and a quick read might save you some time.
__________________
From Rubicon to Icon - 4-link, Tons, Atlas Build

Build Thread

Need parts? Need product advice? Contact Jason at Krawl Off-Road
ArticRubi is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-19-2011, 02:22 PM   #9
DrHolliday
Senior Member
 
DrHolliday's Avatar
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Gresham, OREGON
Posts: 678
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwood0125 View Post
If memory serves me right, I went with 2 1/2" uppers in the front and 1 1/2" lowers in the rear. Unfortunately I wasn't able to flex it all the way out, it was a concrete walkway that went up to the man door next to the loading dock so it wasn't much rise/run. I was probably only 1/2 way flexed when my back tire got onto the ramp.

In hindsight, I'm kind of regretting getting the flex system and not the x-factor. it was less than $400 more for the x-factor and has the UCA's and new rear track bar. Good new is the kit is upgradable and it should cost any more than the original difference of the kits to upgrade, bad news is I just had it all torn down and it would have been much easier to do it all in one shot. Make sure you check out my build thread before you get into it, there were a few things that were a major PITA and a quick read might save you some time.
I'll definitely keep an eye out on the stuff you mentioned in your build thread. The other thing I'm worried about is one of the front UCA's the directions say is a huge PITA to get the stock one out and that the bolt will need cut out. Planning to do this at a friends house with air tools, now if he only had a lift.

Are you still on the stock rear driveshaft? If so hows the rubber cv boots looking on it?
DrHolliday is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-19-2011, 02:30 PM   #10
ArticRubi
Arrogant SOB
 
ArticRubi's Avatar
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Somerville, MA
Posts: 1,787
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrHolliday View Post
I'll definitely keep an eye out on the stuff you mentioned in your build thread. The other thing I'm worried about is one of the front UCA's the directions say is a huge PITA to get the stock one out and that the bolt will need cut out. Planning to do this at a friends house with air tools, now if he only had a lift.

Are you still on the stock rear driveshaft? If so hows the rubber cv boots looking on it?
Saw that about the bolt too. My understanding of the issue is it is just that the factory installs UCAs on a rolling chasis before they install the motor and exhaust manifolds, so the direction they installed the bolt from can't be removed without cutting. Should make pretty quick work of it with a sawzall or angle grinder.

It would have made it so much easier to do it on a lift, I did mine in the driveway with a floor jack and jack stands, and it definitely took some time working with that.... Just myself working on it I had about 7 hours on the front end and about 5 on the back. This was also the first lift I've done, and I went into it not knowing much about my suspension (read the part about confusing the drag link with the track bar ) so for someone who didn't know what they're doing, it would definitely take less time even in the conditions I worked with. That being said, I now feel like I have a thorough understanding of my suspension system, and there was only one way to get there!

CV boots are definitely stretched, but not what I would call "tight." I intend on upgrading the driveshafts pretty soon.
__________________
From Rubicon to Icon - 4-link, Tons, Atlas Build

Build Thread

Need parts? Need product advice? Contact Jason at Krawl Off-Road
ArticRubi is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Tags
3.5" lift , bump stops , rock krawler

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.