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Unread 10-18-2011, 08:17 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by cbloyer81 View Post
I think the soft-doors are going to destroy these. At least when the Teflon wears off of the factory bushings, there is metal barrier. With these it's straight to hinge paint.
Why would the be? And why more so than the hard doors?

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Unread 10-18-2011, 08:23 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
Why would the be? And why more so than the hard doors?
It will wear faster because the door interfaces differently with the hinge. It basically hooks in instead of having two cylinders sitting on top of each other and evenly spreading the force.

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Unread 10-18-2011, 08:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by cbloyer81 View Post
It will wear faster because the door interfaces differently with the hinge. It basically hooks in instead of having two cylinders sitting on top of each other and evenly spreading the force.
Ah, yes! I can see that now.
But, don't underestimate the wear resistance of Delrin.

If I were to make some for the soft doors, I would make a thicker hat on the bushing, and a closer clearance on the pin.
But then, I would be committed to the soft doors all the time.
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Unread 10-18-2011, 08:34 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
Ah, yes! I can see that now.
But, don't underestimate the wear resistance of Delrin.

If I were to make some for the soft doors, I would make a thicker hat on the bushing.
Yeah, I won't replace these until I put the hard doors on for winter. Then, I'll buy the black magic bushings next time. At $55 a pop every two years or so, (maybe even less $ because the back doors don't get used as often) I'm willing to support a small company and just keep replacing them.
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Unread 10-18-2011, 08:45 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbloyer81 View Post
It will wear faster because the door interfaces differently with the hinge. It basically hooks in instead of having two cylinders sitting on top of each other and evenly spreading the force.

Looks like the soft doors needs a washer tacked on there as a flange to help keep them from getting destroyed? Easy fix, I would think.
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Unread 10-18-2011, 08:49 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Tight_wad View Post
Looks like the soft doors needs a washer tacked on there as a flange to help keep them from getting destroyed? Easy fix, I would think.
Not as easy as buying new bushings every few years :-)
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Unread 10-18-2011, 08:59 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Tight_wad View Post
Looks like the soft doors needs a washer tacked on there as a flange to help keep them from getting destroyed? Easy fix, I would think.
Maybe the door is light enough so it's not a factor.
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Unread 10-18-2011, 09:01 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
Maybe the door is light enough so it's not a factor.
Well, they've completely destroyed the factory bushings. But, only time will tell. I'll report back this time next year and let you know :-)
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Unread 11-19-2011, 11:08 AM   #24
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Original Innovator of Polymer Jeep Door Hinge Bushings

Magnitude Engineering is the original innovator of machined polymer bushings for Jeep Wrangler door hinges. Support of domestic companies that create innovative products meeting the niche needs of customers helps fuel the local economy. These are now offered in multiple sizes and colors for a wide range of Jeep Wrangler vehicles.

http://magnitude-engineering.com/products.html
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Unread 11-20-2011, 03:28 AM   #25
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Don't ask me to repeat or remember those prices, I may be grumpy tomorrow and either double them or quit altogether.



Want to STOP?

JEEP Co-op parts, DELRIN DOOR BUSHINGS, TRE inserts
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Unread 11-26-2011, 03:15 PM   #26
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Bringing this up from a while ago. I ordered and have the new Delrin bushings, and got the top halves of the bushings out. It looks like the new bushings are deeper than the old ones...or is there a "lower" half of the old bushings that needs to be removed also?

Thanks
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Unread 11-26-2011, 03:45 PM   #27
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There is only one part to each door bushing. It appears that they are coated in Teflon on the inside. I used a three inch long half inch diameter bolt to remove the old bushings. It took all of about five minutes to remove seven of the bushings. The first bushing took a lot longer because I used a 9mm deep socket and that was too small a diameter and it wedged self in the old bushing. The new delrin bushings tap into place very easy.
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Unread 11-26-2011, 03:53 PM   #28
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On my 98 Wrangler Sport, there is a definite "lip" about half way down in the hinge hole. The new bushings are about twice the length, or depth of the ones that came out. Either they are the wrong bushings, or there is a second portion of bushing that remains in the lower half both hinge holes. There is no way that the new Delrin bushings would fully seat, because of the lower half being occupied by either bushing, or smaller ID hinge hole. The bottom half cannot be easily driven out (if at all)...and I will have to continue working on it tomorrow, as I'm out of patience and daylight.

Does anyone who has installed new bushings recall the hinge hole having a "stop" about half way down (all the way to the bottom of the hole)....where the ID is about 2mm less than the upper half?
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Unread 11-26-2011, 04:25 PM   #29
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I also just realized that this is the JK forum!
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Unread 11-26-2011, 05:59 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagtec1 View Post
On my 98 Wrangler Sport, there is a definite "lip" about half way down in the hinge hole. The new bushings are about twice the length, or depth of the ones that came out. Either they are the wrong bushings, or there is a second portion of bushing that remains in the lower half both hinge holes. There is no way that the new Delrin bushings would fully seat, because of the lower half being occupied by either bushing, or smaller ID hinge hole. The bottom half cannot be easily driven out (if at all)...and I will have to continue working on it tomorrow, as I'm out of patience and daylight.

Does anyone who has installed new bushings recall the hinge hole having a "stop" about half way down (all the way to the bottom of the hole)....where the ID is about 2mm less than the upper half?
I think you're just ripping the top half of the factory bushing out. Get a scribe and jam it between the hinge and whatever you're seeing.
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