thinking of 37s, so upgrade axels? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 28 Old 07-17-2013, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
jk13crush
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thinking of 37s, so upgrade axels?

Ive been considering running 37s since i started planning out my build. my jk is no longer a daily driver.

so if i were to run 37s i would want to do everything right the first time to run the tires correctly. i currently have the 30 up front and 44 in the rear. ive heard that from some people that the 30 is barley strong enough to run 35s. ive also heard that the 44 and the 30 housings are the same strength. the only difference are axel shafts. please correct me if im wrong im hear to learn.

my main question is if i have to find new axels i was planning on running either dana 60s all around or a dana 60 and a 14 bolt or dana 60 and a dana 70 or gusset and truss the 30, get new knuckles, and rvc shafts? all these axles would be full width correct? what are my best options? what should i do / look for when looking for axles? or should i just save up the money and go with rock jocks and not spend the time working on the used axels?

thank you for your advise and help. this is not a troll thread im seriously considering and was wondering how to properly go about it. thanks again

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post #2 of 28 Old 07-17-2013, 01:01 AM
Rtone1583
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There's always too many options aren't there?

Options 1&2 I honestly don't know the cost involved because I have never done either completely. I only estimated the cost based on what I know of the price for certain parts and labor cost. Option 3 is the one that I did and I do know the cost involved.

1. Keep your current housings and upgrade the axle shafts, carriers (to accept heavier duty shafts), change your gears and strengthen the front housing. This is a shot in the dark but I'd be willing to bet that you'd be somewhere around $4k all in for parts and labor.

2. Go for the 60/14 bolt option (assuming used) cost of axles, rework the axles to make sure they are good throughout, modify them to fit your Jeep, fabricate mounts for your Jeep, transfer/adapt what can be and quite possible buy a new set of wheels (unless your stock hubs will transfer). Another shot in the dark, but maybe between 4$K and $6K.

3. Go for the new aftermarket option. Built as you want them and comes with a warranty. Looking at between $8K and $10K depending on how they are set up and you may have to buy new wheels.

I went with a Dynatrac ProRock 60 rear and ProRock 44 front with RCV axle shafts on mine and was in at (edit) $12,300 for parts ($3,800 for D44, $4,300 for D60, $1,000 for F/R drive shafts, $570 for big brake kit, $1,100 for RCV shafts, $160 for gear oil and $485 for various delivery charges).

Two reasons I didn't go with a 60 up front:

1. The 60 front has a larger hub and I would have had to buy new wheels to make it work.

2. The front axle doesn't really take as much abuse overall as the rear and the ProRock 44 addressed and beefed up those items (axle tubes, C's, ball joints, etc.) that are known to be points of failure on stock 44's.

If you've got the funds I would go with the Rock Jocks.
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post #3 of 28 Old 07-17-2013, 02:14 PM
Rancho_Lifts
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Good advice here.
On our JK-8, we have a PR 44 up front and a strengthen rear (axle shafts and I am ASSuming welds on the tubes. On the JK Experience we snapped both chromo axles and that in turn broke a ball joint. Since then we have upgraded to RCV's and Dynatrac ball joints. Yes they cost more than other brands but they are Made in the USA, rebuidable and tough.
On my personal JKU (2103) I went ProRock 60's front and rear. Just because I know in a few years I will push this rig hard.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtone1583 View Post
There's always too many options aren't there?

Options 1&2 I honestly don't know the cost involved because I have never done either completely. I only estimated the cost based on what I know of the price for certain parts and labor cost. Option 3 is the one that I did and I do know the cost involved.

1. Keep your current housings and upgrade the axle shafts, carriers (to accept heavier duty shafts), change your gears and strengthen the front housing. This is a shot in the dark but I'd be willing to bet that you'd be somewhere around $4k all in for parts and labor.

2. Go for the 60/14 bolt option (assuming used) cost of axles, rework the axles to make sure they are good throughout, modify them to fit your Jeep, fabricate mounts for your Jeep, transfer/adapt what can be and quite possible buy a new set of wheels (unless your stock hubs will transfer). Another shot in the dark, but maybe between 4$K and $6K.

3. Go for the new aftermarket option. Built as you want them and comes with a warranty. Looking at between $8K and $10K depending on how they are set up and you may have to buy new wheels.

I went with a Dynatrac ProRock 60 rear and ProRock 44 front with RCV axle shafts on mine and was in at (edit) $12,300 for parts ($3,800 for D44, $4,300 for D60, $1,000 for F/R drive shafts, $570 for big brake kit, $1,100 for RCV shafts, $160 for gear oil and $485 for various delivery charges).

Two reasons I didn't go with a 60 up front:

1. The 60 front has a larger hub and I would have had to buy new wheels to make it work.

2. The front axle doesn't really take as much abuse overall as the rear and the ProRock 44 addressed and beefed up those items (axle tubes, C's, ball joints, etc.) that are known to be points of failure on stock 44's.

If you've got the funds I would go with the Rock Jocks.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/signaturepics/sigpic302198_17.gifRancho products are proudly made in the USA!
Ask about our 90 day money back guarantee and lifetime warranty.
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post #4 of 28 Old 07-17-2013, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
jk13crush
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What do y'all think if this for a rear axle?


http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...FQ-i4Aod8XQAog
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post #5 of 28 Old 07-17-2013, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
jk13crush
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Would I still be able to drive the jk on pavement with the Detroit locker or is it always engaged?
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post #6 of 28 Old 07-17-2013, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk13crush View Post
Would I still be able to drive the jk on pavement with the Detroit locker or is it always engaged?
You can drive on the street with a Detroit. It takes some getting used to according to the ones who have one, but there are plenty of people out there who have one in their DD.

Ask Jerry Bransford or Joe Dillard about it, they can tell you all you want to know.

1991 YJ: Daily Driver
1992 YJ: Pile of crap sitting in the garage.
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post #7 of 28 Old 07-17-2013, 04:22 PM
Rancho_Lifts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk13crush View Post
What do y'all think if this for a rear axle?


http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...FQ-i4Aod8XQAog
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99530

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post #8 of 28 Old 07-17-2013, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
jk13crush
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So... It will break


I guess these would be better?

http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/pts/3927637842.html
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post #9 of 28 Old 07-17-2013, 09:16 PM
brianjw
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Man I mean this in the nicest way possible. Why are you considering all this and running 37s if you don't know how a Detroit works? It seems like you've done a little research but I have to ask. What is your experience and what is your real, honest intended use and budget?
Just trying to understand where you're coming from.
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post #10 of 28 Old 07-17-2013, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
jk13crush
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No hard feelings. I know that with a detriot when you turn the steering wheel one of the side un-locks so that it can rotate faster than the other. I was just wondering if it was still pavement worthy. I just wanted to be 100% sure.

My experience with what? Jeeps, or cars in general? I grew up in a classic European auto shop and have worked on everything from vintage rolls Royce to old mini coopers. I worked on a drag race team that ran a 7.9-8.2 second car and I'm slowly restoring a 1958 woody wagon that my father passed down to me.

I wanted to get into jeeps so I bought a jk as a daily. The jk is no longer a daily; it's more of a weekend warrior that I what to start modifying. I want a rig that I can point at anything and for the most part will be able to get over. And while doing that I want to make sure that it is as tough enough to do that. I like to overbuild my projects.

I also like to know as much as I can about any project before I start on it. Does that help you? Thanks again for the help.

edit: but i really just want a nice mall crawler... just kidding
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post #11 of 28 Old 07-17-2013, 11:11 PM
SunDevilJeeper
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Well, you got your answer on the Detroit. Next question.

1991 YJ: Daily Driver
1992 YJ: Pile of crap sitting in the garage.
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post #12 of 28 Old 07-18-2013, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
jk13crush
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what axle should I look at now that rancho lifts posted this?

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Originally Posted by Rancho_Lifts View Post
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post #13 of 28 Old 07-18-2013, 12:13 AM
Rtone1583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtone1583 View Post
(edit) $12,300 for parts ($3,800 for D44, $4,300 for D60, $1,000 for F/R drive shafts, $570 for big brake kit, $1,100 for RCV shafts, $160 for gear oil and $485 for various delivery charges).
I forgot to mention that the cost of the axles included ARB lockers.
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post #14 of 28 Old 07-18-2013, 12:28 AM
Rtone1583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk13crush View Post
what axle should I look at now that rancho lifts posted this?
In all honesty, all we can offer is opinion based on what we know and/or have experienced or used.

The main questions on the post about the Rock Jocks is what was he doing and how was he set up to shred two R&P's.

60 series axles are more than robust enough for a JK but just like any other mechanical device you use, it is how you treat it that will determine how long it will last.

If you really want to make it as bullet proof as possible go for this, http://www.dynatrac.com/products/jk/ProRock80.html .

In reality the only limiting factor will be how much you want to spend on your Jeep.
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post #15 of 28 Old 07-18-2013, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
jk13crush
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Thank you for all your help and information.

pro rock 60 vs rock jock 60 or is that a matter of opinion too?

also are either of these full float? sorry if this is common knowledge

brianjw I didnt mean to come off in a rude way i was just trying to answer all your questions so you could help.
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