SYNERGY (need advice to) - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 11-23-2013, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
heep1991
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SYNERGY (need advice to)

OK so I installed the SYNERGY Chromoly Tie rod and High steer drag link. Everything went pretty smoothly till I got to the drilling and putting in the TRE flip adapter, drilling was fairly easy (almost snapped my wrist a few times) but I drilled it out and attempted to get the adapter in. Had to re drill a few times to get the adapter started. I then had some trouble getting it all the way in, it was very tight. I then tried to put the drag link in and it was very reluctant to go in all the way. I was able to get the nut tightened almost enough to get a cotter pin in but just shy.

So should I take off the nipple and beat the top with a large steel mallet or drill out the adapter and enlarge the hole and put a new adapter in? ????????

See pictures below. Yes I know my sway bar link is F'ed I got currie ones on the way.

During the alignment I was shown I need a new upper ball joint, back to SYNERGY for a set.





1991 YJ 2.5L - SOLD
2006 Jeep Commander 6cyl - SOLD
2007 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon 3.8L
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post #2 of 10 Old 11-23-2013, 05:12 PM
222Doc
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Did you raise the track bar mount on the front axle too.? You must raise it if you flip the drag link or you will have bump steer. Once you raise that mount you need at least 3 inch bump stops front or the track bar will hit the frame. Flip kits are for lifts of 3" and up.

http://www.parker4wheelers.net
www.bullhead4wheelersinc.com
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post #3 of 10 Old 11-23-2013, 05:46 PM
HappyTrails
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Take a Dremel tool and grind out the hole a little bit at a time.
Use a Digital Caliper (available at an auto parts store for about $20) and make sure the hole is 0.845" to .875".
Be sure to not grind out the hole into an oval. Continuously measure the hole at all angles between grinding. Once drilled to the right size, it should take a few quick taps with a hammer to fit in perfectly. Should be able to get the nut on enough to easily get the cotter pin through.

From the Synergy installation manual: "Any larger than .880” and the flip adapter will not seat correctly in the knuckle. The target finished hole size is between .845” and .875” See Pictures 5.1 and 5.2 for reference."

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post #4 of 10 Old 11-23-2013, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
heep1991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
Did you raise the track bar mount on the front axle too.? You must raise it if you flip the drag link or you will have bump steer. Once you raise that mount you need at least 3 inch bump stops front or the track bar will hit the frame. Flip kits are for lifts of 3" and up.
I did not raise the track bar, I'll have to put that on my wish list. Just driving on road a few times a week for now.

1991 YJ 2.5L - SOLD
2006 Jeep Commander 6cyl - SOLD
2007 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon 3.8L
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post #5 of 10 Old 11-23-2013, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
heep1991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyTrails View Post
Take a Dremel tool and grind out the hole a little bit at a time.
Use a Digital Caliper (available at an auto parts store for about $20) and make sure the hole is 0.845" to .875".
Be sure to not grind out the hole into an oval. Continuously measure the hole at all angles between grinding. Once drilled to the right size, it should take a few quick taps with a hammer to fit in perfectly. Should be able to get the nut on enough to easily get the cotter pin through.

From the Synergy installation manual: "Any larger than .880 and the flip adapter will not seat correctly in the knuckle. The target finished hole size is between .845 and .875 See Pictures 5.1 and 5.2 for reference."
I was to worried about over drilling and being in a bit of a pickle. Think I will drill out the adapter and put a new one in, I have one on the way.

1991 YJ 2.5L - SOLD
2006 Jeep Commander 6cyl - SOLD
2007 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon 3.8L
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-16-2014, 08:37 PM
Moab_cj5
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Any update on this? How do you like the setup?
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-17-2014, 07:42 AM
motoguy1251
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The adapter piece you get from synergy should have a tapered id hole to match the taper on the TRE. So i would not drill that out.
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post #8 of 10 Old 01-17-2014, 10:30 AM
222Doc
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you must have used the wrong drill bit.? I went to this set up while back. But i had a flip before, so it was bolt on.

You do not want to be in bump steer. I dot understand why people drop 600$ in parts to avoid that last 100$ for the bracket. that kind of bump steer can be dangerous. You are 3" inches out of parallel. might as well have done a drop pit arm and a 3" body lift.

http://www.parker4wheelers.net
www.bullhead4wheelersinc.com
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post #9 of 10 Old 01-17-2014, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
heep1991
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So I purchased the bracket and everything seems to run fine. I didn't purchase initially cause I was unaware i was necessary. I still have yet to fix the steer arm, I ordered another adapter and will get it done one day, I'm just worried about drilling out the adapter. If I use the same bit I don't see what really can go wrong, I just need to get a few dremel pieces to do the job.

Used the required drill bit that I picked up at Home depot, directions say to measure hole because all bits are different. I figured it should be a tight fit but guess it was a little to tight.

1991 YJ 2.5L - SOLD
2006 Jeep Commander 6cyl - SOLD
2007 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon 3.8L
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post #10 of 10 Old 01-17-2014, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
heep1991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moab_cj5 View Post
Any update on this? How do you like the setup?
Setup is really nice, just buy all the pieces at once and take your time installing unlike me cause I was at a hobby shop at the military base doing mine and didn't want to leave it over night so I rushed thru.

1991 YJ 2.5L - SOLD
2006 Jeep Commander 6cyl - SOLD
2007 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon 3.8L
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