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post #1 of 13 Old 08-20-2017, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
PSU1987
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Suspension Decision

I have a 2013 JKU Rubicon and I am deciding between 2 suspension kits. The Rock Krawler 3.5" X Factor or the Metal Cloak 3.5" Game Changer Kit. Which would you pick and why. Thanks

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post #2 of 13 Old 08-20-2017, 11:42 PM
Kolak
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What size tires are you going to be running?

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post #3 of 13 Old 08-21-2017, 12:17 AM
SLADE
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Metalcloak without hesitation.

Better components and better people.

Rock Krawler is playing catch up to companies like Metalcloak. Rock Krawler has criticized Metalcloak to make a sale and then turned around and gone the same direction Metalcloak was criticized for. Rock Krawler has been a step behind in many aspects. They have made quite a few changes over the last few years to improve their lift, but I've lost all respect for them. Their "techs" that frequent forums are just salesmen looking for a sale and to do damage control when their is a problem with their product.

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post #4 of 13 Old 08-21-2017, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
PSU1987
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Suspension Decision

Running 35s may eventually go to 37s
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-21-2017, 01:29 PM
Kolak
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Would be good to go to 3.5" to 4" for your future 37" tires.

I carry Rock Krawler but have you considered the Teraflex kit?:

https://teraflex.com/shop_items/528f...d962f416e72d2f

They make excellent components and I'm a Teraflex dealer too.

Or we could piece together a kit using the best components from various manufacturers.

If you'd like to chat, please PM me here on the forum or email me at kolak@aol.com

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post #6 of 13 Old 08-21-2017, 08:15 PM
Psycho-X-Jeep
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MetalCloak... Why?

Duroflex bushings
Zinc Plated components (excellent corrosion resistance)
True Dual Rate springs
Front Lower shock mount relocation brackets
Available SixPack Shocks

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post #7 of 13 Old 08-21-2017, 09:18 PM
propped1
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Metal cloak arms and springs. Something else for shocks, trackbar, tie rod. I had the RK 2.5 stock mod with bilstein5160s. RKs track bar in the front is WAY beefier than the metalcloak. MC trackbar correction bracket in the rear is weak. rear sway bar links are weak (had a couple club guys bend them... they do replace), but nothing wrong with running no rear sway bar... havent had one for a couple years. RK doesnt have the best quick discos in the front, but they are probably the strongest if you drive on the street a lot too. When you get the lift, get a weld on trackbar bracket in rear.

I currently have the MC arms, MC 3.5 springs, RK track, Currie drag link, and Synergy Tie Rod. If I was doing it again, I'd get the currie tie rod. Wasnt an option 2011. I heard enough to think new synergy parts have fallen off a bit.

Nothing wrong with peicing a lift together if you know what you want. I want the beefiest thing I can get at the lowest price I can get it.

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post #8 of 13 Old 08-22-2017, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propped1 View Post

I currently have the MC arms, MC 3.5 springs, RK track, Currie drag link, and Synergy Tie Rod. If I was doing it again, I'd get the currie tie rod. Wasnt an option 2011. I heard enough to think new synergy parts have fallen off a bit.

Nothing wrong with peicing a lift together if you know what you want. I want the beefiest thing I can get at the lowest price I can get it.
You should take a look at MetalCloak's new tie rod that came out last week.

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post #9 of 13 Old 08-22-2017, 10:49 AM
propped1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho-X-Jeep View Post
You should take a look at MetalCloak's new tie rod that came out last week.
I got that email

The rod ends are 1ton. But the bar isnt. Synergy are bigger than GM 1 ton. While 3/8s wall tube is impressive, that doesnt leave much ID for a solid stud to go into the bar. For the rod end indexing, Currie has it on a stud. Watch the video on the website. I like their suspension stuff, I own it. Not so much their steering stuff. When I got my MC Game changer I gave the trackbar to a buddy for his assistance and a bottle of Jack putting on the control arms. He needed a new one and it was notably a down grade from the RK I had on there.

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post #10 of 13 Old 08-22-2017, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propped1 View Post
I got that email

The rod ends are 1ton. But the bar isnt. Synergy are bigger than GM 1 ton. While 3/8s wall tube is impressive, that doesnt leave much ID for a solid stud to go into the bar. For the rod end indexing, Currie has it on a stud. Watch the video on the website. I like their suspension stuff, I own it. Not so much their steering stuff. When I got my MC Game changer I gave the trackbar to a buddy for his assistance and a bottle of Jack putting on the control arms. He needed a new one and it was notably a down grade from the RK I had on there.
Sort of funny. I switched from a RK trackbar to MC trackbar. My RK bar was hitting my RuffStuff diff cover so it had to go. Was it beefy... definitely! But I cant say I am disappointed with the switch!

Currie's extreme duty tie rod does look impressive. Especially how the rod ends can be swapped out. It is more than double the price of MC, but I'm sure well worth it if you plan to use and abuse it. But 700+ is just more than I am willing to pay. I mean, I couldn't get over the 500+ price point Rock Krawler wanted for their tie rod. Maybe I'm just being a bit too cheap.

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post #11 of 13 Old 08-22-2017, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho-X-Jeep View Post
Sort of funny. I switched from a RK trackbar to MC trackbar. My RK bar was hitting my RuffStuff diff cover so it had to go. Was it beefy... definitely! But I cant say I am disappointed with the switch!

Currie's extreme duty tie rod does look impressive. Especially how the rod ends can be swapped out. It is more than double the price of MC, but I'm sure well worth it if you plan to use and abuse it. But 700+ is just more than I am willing to pay. I mean, I couldn't get over the 500+ price point Rock Krawler wanted for their tie rod. Maybe I'm just being a bit too cheap.
Currie is a bit confusing the way they market their sterring admittedly. Their drag and tie rod in currectlync line 550ish as a bundle depending on where you get it. The 700 ish Tie Rod is their extreme line. 1 5/8" with a 1 1/4" shank rod end... Not breaking that. Just tie rod is 350 and just drag is 240 in the regular currectlync line. MSRP. Seen it cheaper and seen it more expensive. My drag was 225.

I also have a ruff stuff cover. Hasnt made contact. The frame side bolt does touch the front of the Barnes truss I have though. Just barely. Clearanced itself haha. Would do that with any manufacturer though.

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post #12 of 13 Old 08-22-2017, 07:51 PM
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Definitely metalcloak for arms and joints and track bar.

Yes, RK has been playing catch up there.

Springs and rate are debatable. Metalcloak's trackbar and springs are designed for clearance, uptravel, articulation, and better at speed.

RK has softer springs if you want to go that way. If you're asking this question though, you have nowhere near enough info to make a fully informed decision on spring rate and its effects off road.

So, to keep it simple, do you want a softer ride or a firmer feeling at speed?
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post #13 of 13 Old 08-24-2017, 10:39 AM
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I ended up with the RK arms because of length limitations. The MC arms would not go short enough on the upper rear to get the geometry I wanted.
Heres my math to retain dive,squat and caster curves.
OEM lower 22.625, recommended lower to regain caster to 5 deg/5.5 deg (3.5/2.5 lift) - 23.0625, that's a .4375 ( 1.9%) increase. That puts the front upper at 19.016 (18.750oem x 1.019) to get the same dive/squat curves. Both RK and MC can accommodate this. The problem was in the rear.

OEM lower 19.750 goes to 20.4375 (.6875 longer or 3.4%) to return wheelbase to 114 (at 2.5 lift) so upper should be 17.4375 X 1.034 = 18.030. BUT the shortest the MC upper would go (when I was buying) was 18.250.
Not saying that wont work - but it was not the geometry I carefully targeted.

For a 3.5 lift there would have been no problems as lower rear would extend another .235 to get wheel base back and upper can match that in % of increase to retain curves.

The RK hit the above measurements with 4-8 threads to spare.

The MC arms being "soft joint" at both ends would ride better on hiway than the RK - soft at frame end hard at axle.

J Wm Bishop EA, ASADE
The wagon should, of course, be as light as possible, but strength should not be sacrificed to lightness, for on any but the regularly traveled roads, the wagon will get many a
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