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Unread 09-03-2013, 10:02 AM   #1
BvOjeep
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Stock Skid Plates - Rubicon JKU

I have a 2014 JK Rubicon Unlimited wondering if the stock skid plates are good enough for moderate to hard trail riding. I replaced all my '98 TJ skids that were too skimpy. Hoping I won't have to spend money underneath, except for a lift.

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Unread 09-03-2013, 10:07 AM   #2
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I would suggest getting an oil/ trans. skid , the pans are very vulnerable as is the cooler line if you have an auto.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 03:57 PM   #3
HappyTrails
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They are good for moderate trails. They will dent easily on rocks, however.
Definitely protect that oil pan with a skid plate, though!

The aftermarket skids are much thicker and stronger than the stock skids.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 04:00 PM   #4
awinski
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As stated above oil pan, and trans. Would also look into an evap skip.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 10:44 PM   #5
BvOjeep
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oil pan, and trans. Would also look into an evap skid
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Unread 09-03-2013, 11:48 PM   #6
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Same situation here. Is it worth putting a skid on the gas tank.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 12:59 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYgreenYJ View Post
Same situation here. Is it worth putting a skid on the gas tank.
YES! That is where some of my largest (wider than my hand) dents were, on the stock gas tank skid plate. A sharp rock could go through the stock gas tank skid, and then you'd be screwed.

I'm running the River Raider skids on the oil pan, transmission, transfer case, and gas tank. These skids are seriously thick compared to the aluminum foil stock skids.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 06:28 AM   #8
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I have a 2013 JKUR 10A and when I bought it I knew the skid plates that come from the manufacture aren't beefy enough for me along with missing a few places as mentioned above. If you purchase a 3/16" skid plate and compare it to OEM I'm sure you will notice what I'm talking about. I guess the answer to your question IMO is "NO". You asked if they are good enough for moderate to hard trail riding and if these trails have any kind of rocks such as the Rubicon Trail then you had better get better. I do not skimp on under armor. As I'm dropping hard on a sharp/pointy rock or scraping along the top of sharp edges with the whole weight of the Jeep including PAX and equipment it gives me piece of mind that I'm running on tough skid plates. It's a gawdawfull sound but I know the belly is protected.

As for the missing skids. I don't know why Jeep left such places wide open for damage. The oil pan is wide open for a hit and if you have an auto transmission as I do the your able to take damage there. There are trans cooling lines hanging in harms way that can either be crushed or ripped off. All of these types of damages can put you dead in the water and I don't want to take that chance when I know it can be prevented.

I have had the opportunity to build a few off road vehicles and I have learned over the course of time that before I plan on taking my toys off the beaten path I get all the under armor installed first and then I make sure I'm set up with my own recovery gear, but thats a different subject.

One other thing I like to add is look for the type of skids that mount to the frame, not engine components, trans/transfer cases, etc. You want the impact energy to be transferred to the frame not to the component your trying to protect. I live not more than an hour from the Rubicon Trail and I have learned by trial and error.

One other thing to consider changing to better is the Transmission Cross Member. I have read about this being a weak point and after looking at it I agree. HTH
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Unread 09-04-2013, 07:23 AM   #9
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Definitely change out the trans crossmember. My factory skid plate has actually held up fine so far after dragging it over rocks a few times, but the crossmember is already bent up a bit. This thing is so cheaply built it is amazing.

Poison spyder has a stronger crossmember, and I think synergy sells a skid plate that includes a stronger crossmember with it.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 09:28 AM   #10
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Thanks everyone for your comments. I took part in the interviews prior to the design of the first Rubicon and one of my suggestions was if you're going to put skid plates on, put good ones on! I guess they left that suggestion out. Rocks are sharp and hard no matter where you wheel...... I guess I have to spend 5 or 6 hundred dollars before I can start making it look and ride better.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 09:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BvOjeep
Thanks everyone for your comments. I took part in the interviews prior to the design of the first Rubicon and one of my suggestions was if you're going to put skid plates on, put good ones on! I guess they left that suggestion out. Rocks are sharp and hard no matter where you wheel...... I guess I have to spend 5 or 6 hundred dollars before I can start making it look and ride better.
Yep, lame huh?
Those low hanging rear shock mounts like to get hung up a lot too. Might look at shock mount/control arm skid plates , or lower shock relocation brackets with integrated skids if you factor in a shorter shock with your lift.
I've been thinking about the synergy lower shock relocation bracket with integrated skid, but I need a shorter rear shock and AEV never responds to emails about shock length or pricing. They don't seem to respond to anyone's emails for that matter according to people on their own forum.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 10:36 AM   #12
Jackie5_0
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I would def do a evap skid plate. We bent the factory one almost to the point of hitting the driveshaft on mud! Put the poison spider skid on and its taken quite a bit of abuse.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 12:58 PM   #13
brianjw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackie5_0
I would def do a evap skid plate. We bent the factory one almost to the point of hitting the driveshaft on mud! Put the poison spider skid on and its taken quite a bit of abuse.
Or you could relocate it above the rear axle for much less (and less weight) and not worry about dragging it at all.
If you lift the jk you should reposition the skid plate if nothing else, otherwise the drive shaft may hit it. Just like the rear flange on the driveshaft WILL hit the gas tank skid plate once it's lifted and articulates more.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 08:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rock-rocker
I don't know why Jeep left such places wide open for damage. HTH
It's because trail rated = mall rated. It's cheaper and get's better gas mileage that way. Don't get me wrong the stock jeep is very capable. I once had those plastic side steps then boulder ate one. Yeah, it was upgrade time. 8-)
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Unread 09-05-2013, 12:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjw View Post
Yep, lame huh?
Those low hanging rear shock mounts like to get hung up a lot too. Might look at shock mount/control arm skid plates , or lower shock relocation brackets with integrated skids if you factor in a shorter shock with your lift.
I've been thinking about the synergy lower shock relocation bracket with integrated skid, but I need a shorter rear shock and AEV never responds to emails about shock length or pricing. They don't seem to respond to anyone's emails for that matter according to people on their own forum.
EVO offroad makes one you don't have to relocate anything or get shorter shocks. they're solid skids that protect the rear shocks and control arms.

http://www.offroadevolution.com/stor...p?prod=EVO-RCS
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