So who can give me the most honest answer? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 33 Old 03-07-2013, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
BjBk11
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So who can give me the most honest answer?

Yes once again, a newbie asking about a lift kit. Before I lose half of you and click away, all I am asking for is a simple answer.

I have spent countless hours reading about lifting, tires, gear ratios, etc.

And basically from what I have gathered is no one gives a direct answer regarding driveshaft issues and moderate lift heights.

Obviously, anything over 4" is gonna destroy a stock wrangler with out some serious investments in the undercarriage and driveline.

However, the 2"-3.5" range is sort of a grey area on the these forums.

So who wants to bite and give me their honest opinion.

I hate the idea of using "pucks" and maintaining the same suspension components. If thats the route you recommend I'd rather just fit a smaller tire and do some trimming and use wheelspacers.

I also hate the thought of putting a lift on only to cause major problems down the road.

So lets hear it, what do I need to create the best daily driver, won't destroy my driveshaft, and prevent other issues such as axle allignments, DW, etc.

I know a lot of you are gonna give me the because its a Daily Driver, but I have yet to find a thread that is tailored to creating the best daily driver and doing it the RIGHT WAY. If there is such a thread and I haven't found it, please forward me there.

I have a 2011 2dr 6 spd manual 3.21s

Will be re-gearing.

Interested in 33s-35s.

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post #2 of 33 Old 03-07-2013, 12:19 PM
Noxian
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2.5 inch, flat fenders and 35s is a great combo for a dialy driver, but you will want to regear if you have 3.21s
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post #3 of 33 Old 03-07-2013, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
BjBk11
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2.5" seems like the safest way to go, but it seems like more people like the 3.5" AEV lift vs. the AEV 2.5". And I don't see many other brands that are highly recommended in that range. Please Inform me if I am being a sucker for branding...
Regardless of which height and brand...

To Do it correctly and gain the best alignments etc... here is what I understand I will be needing:
1.) Adj. Front Track Bar: Best brand to get?
2.) Control Arms? Can anyone elaborate on these?
3.) Springs: Progressive
4.) Shocks: Bilsteins or Fox 2.0s
5.) Steering Stabilizer
6.) AEV ProCal

Basically that is all included in the AEV 3.5" Dualsport SC. BDS also offers a nice package at 3"

But the problem I am running into, and the main reason I started this thread is the grey area I mentioned, I have read conflicting things regarding the Drive shaft and lift heights greater than 3".

So am I being crazy boiling this down to the difference of .5"-1" difference in height? The 3" kits definitely seem more complete but could cause damage in the long run....
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post #4 of 33 Old 03-07-2013, 01:12 PM
XTRyan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BjBk11 View Post
Yes once again, a newbie asking about a lift kit. Before I lose half of you and click away, all I am asking for is a simple answer.

I have spent countless hours reading about lifting, tires, gear ratios, etc.

And basically from what I have gathered is no one gives a direct answer regarding driveshaft issues and moderate lift heights.

Obviously, anything over 4" is gonna destroy a stock wrangler with out some serious investments in the undercarriage and driveline.

However, the 2"-3.5" range is sort of a grey area on the these forums.

So who wants to bite and give me their honest opinion.

I hate the idea of using "pucks" and maintaining the same suspension components. If thats the route you recommend I'd rather just fit a smaller tire and do some trimming and use wheelspacers.

I also hate the thought of putting a lift on only to cause major problems down the road.

So lets hear it, what do I need to create the best daily driver, won't destroy my driveshaft, and prevent other issues such as axle allignments, DW, etc.

I know a lot of you are gonna give me the because its a Daily Driver, but I have yet to find a thread that is tailored to creating the best daily driver and doing it the RIGHT WAY. If there is such a thread and I haven't found it, please forward me there.

I have a 2011 2dr 6 spd manual 3.21s

Will be re-gearing.

Interested in 33s-35s.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BjBk11 View Post
2.5" seems like the safest way to go, but it seems like more people like the 3.5" AEV lift vs. the AEV 2.5". And I don't see many other brands that are highly recommended in that range. Please Inform me if I am being a sucker for branding...
Regardless of which height and brand...

To Do it correctly and gain the best alignments etc... here is what I understand I will be needing:
1.) Adj. Front Track Bar: Best brand to get?
2.) Control Arms? Can anyone elaborate on these?
3.) Springs: Progressive
4.) Shocks: Bilsteins or Fox 2.0s
5.) Steering Stabilizer
6.) AEV ProCal

Basically that is all included in the AEV 3.5" Dualsport SC. BDS also offers a nice package at 3"

But the problem I am running into, and the main reason I started this thread is the grey area I mentioned, I have read conflicting things regarding the Drive shaft and lift heights greater than 3".

So am I being crazy boiling this down to the difference of .5"-1" difference in height? The 3" kits definitely seem more complete but could cause damage in the long run....
BjBk11,

It seems like you have really done your research in terms of what you will need to make your rig a good daily driver and weekend wheeler. Honestly that what most of the guys on this forum have. They run a 2.5"-3" lift with some 35's and either cut their stock fenders or get some aftermarket ones for some extra clearance and flex.

When it comes to options for brand there is a TON of great brands out there other than just AEV. Rock Krawler and Teraflex are 2 of the best on the market today. They both have strong components that will last a long time. Along with very detailed instructions, and they come complete with all the parts you will need to install it, other than shocks with the Rock Krawler kits. That will allow you to choose your own shocks, which is a great way to make sure your rig rides the way you want it too.

Obviously the lift and larger tires will put more strain on the drivetrain as compared to stock, but with only a 2.5"-3" lift and 35's you will be fine DD'ing it.
I have over 5000 miles on my 2012 with 35's and 2" lift and have had no issues with it.

Re-gearing will be something you will want to do, and almost need to do. It will put your RPM's back in the stock range and get your power and fuel economy back close to stock. The 2011 with a manual trans, you will want to run a 4.88 gear ratio for the best performance.

If you have any other questions or need some advice on which parts to pick, shoot me a PM and I'll gladly give you some help.

-Zach

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post #5 of 33 Old 03-07-2013, 02:11 PM
BigBlue7
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well, to be honest, your going to need a new driveshaft at some point if you get more than 2.5"

I ran a 2.5 for a year, no problems. Then I installed the 3.5 RK X Factor and 35's. I watched the DS very carefully, inspecting it after every 100 miles or so. After about 600 miles I noticed the grease was starting to fling out of the boot seal. I imediately took it off, and repaired it before it busted the boot. Ordered a Tom Woods 1310, and for $75 I sold the DS to a club member who is running a 2.5" - it's been good on his rig w/o any issues. (all this happened b/f I even had the chance to really enjoy/test the suspension, other than the suspension cycling tests.)

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post #6 of 33 Old 03-07-2013, 03:06 PM
Green08
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Cut pinch seam...
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post #7 of 33 Old 03-07-2013, 07:52 PM
thedirtman
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Flat fenders, leveling kit or 3/4" puck up front and 35's. Less height you add to the suspension the better. You wont need to do much more then coils and shocks up to 2" after that you will start adding components when you hit 4" expect to replace most of the undercarrage and steering. Remember you cannot correct your caster unless you swap axle housings or the whole axle and the higher you go the more out of spec your caster will be.

If you learned something new today, you had a good day.
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post #8 of 33 Old 03-07-2013, 08:31 PM
HighandLow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlue7
well, to be honest, your going to need a new driveshaft at some point if you get more than 2.5"

I ran a 2.5 for a year, no problems. Then I installed the 3.5 RK X Factor and 35's. I watched the DS very carefully, inspecting it after every 100 miles or so. After about 600 miles I noticed the grease was starting to fling out of the boot seal. I imediately took it off, and repaired it before it busted the boot. Ordered a Tom Woods 1310, and for $75 I sold the DS to a club member who is running a 2.5" - it's been good on his rig w/o any issues. (all this happened b/f I even had the chance to really enjoy/test the suspension, other than the suspension cycling tests.)
Smart and proactive! Preventative maintenance.

2010 Rubicon, Auto, Stone White, 3"Synergy Coils, AEV Geo Brackets, MetalCloak TB's and CA's, 35" Grabbers, 17" AEV Pintlers , Adams 1310's, ORF, PSC, JCR, PIAA, TeraFlex,Rancho equipped...
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post #9 of 33 Old 03-09-2013, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
BjBk11
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Thanks guys for all your input. I have seen many of you posting in some of the other threads on here and I am confident in your thoughts. I will be meeting with the shop who is doing the work in the next week or so, and will definitely take along a lot of these comments. If you guys don't mind I would like to report back with what the final build design will be and see if it is missing anything. Thanks again fellas.
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post #10 of 33 Old 03-09-2013, 03:12 PM
UTAH
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I faced the same lift issues on the new JK. I wanted something easy on the drive train and other components for years of worry-free daily driving as well as trail work.

I went with a 1.25 body lift and a 1" coil spacer. Running 11x34" tires with no rubbing.

Bill

'97 Land Rover D90
'03 TJ Rubicon
'14 JK-8 Freedom Edition
'14 KL Cherokee Trailhawk
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post #11 of 33 Old 03-09-2013, 03:51 PM
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Rokmen 2.5" spacers, Teraflex bumpstops, Bilstein shocks, Currie trackbars, JKS rear trackbar brace, Teraflex dropped brakeline brackets.. That's the gist of it... You don't need much if your keeping it on the street most of the time. I'd retain your factory coils. I'm willing to bet Chrysler spent a little more coin in the r&d department than most aftermarket suspension manufacturers

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post #12 of 33 Old 03-09-2013, 04:23 PM
tnpopatop
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We have 2 Jeeps one my kids call the Junky Jeep, a green 97 TJ and my wifes 2012JKU. The 2012 is just a pavement Jeep for now and like you I wanted to lift it and still be able to use it as transportation without any negative effects. I purchased a 2.5 Teraflex coil lift kit and installed it myself really was super easy no special tools except for a borrowed torque wrench. Stock wheels cause my wife likes them w/ synergy 1.5" spacers. 315/70/17 tires. Rides good, drives good, handles good, you get the picture no negative effects for my wifes daily driving rig. Just like stock except nearly 35" tires.
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post #13 of 33 Old 03-09-2013, 04:42 PM
Wavedatya
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A lady in my area has a JKU with 2.5 lift. 35" tires and flat fenders. It's looks great and she said it drives nice

OF4WD member #7523. Durham 4x4 member.
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post #14 of 33 Old 03-10-2013, 12:15 PM
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Guys, keep in mind the OP has a 2-door Wrangler. To go more than 2" with a suspension lift is harder on the rear drive line than with the 4-door.

Bill

'97 Land Rover D90
'03 TJ Rubicon
'14 JK-8 Freedom Edition
'14 KL Cherokee Trailhawk
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post #15 of 33 Old 03-10-2013, 02:00 PM
Wavedatya
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Sorry OP. so maybe some 2" or 1.75" spacers and if you want get some good shocks. Good to go! Good price for spacers and get good set of shocks. Bada bing!

OF4WD member #7523. Durham 4x4 member.
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